Foamcore: good thought.=C2=A0 = Will it withstand 110C?
I'm considering 1/2" blue rigid wall insulation.
<= p>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Gary
= Make Better Things
Make Things Better

=C2=A0
= =C2=A0
=C2=A0
=C2=A0

On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 2:31 PM, John Yan= g wrote:
I insulated the bottom of the hbp with some cardboard covered in metal
vent foil tape. =C2=A0The shiny metal should help rediate back a little
heat, and the air pockets of the carboard give a decent insulation vs
direct physical contact to the plywood. =C2=A0you could use any insulation<= br> below and help the heat go only where you want it. =C2=A0I've got some<= br> foamcore set aside that I was going to try the next time I have to
tear down the bed for maintenance.

On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 2:19 PM, Gary Schwartz <gschwar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hmmmm. =C2=A0Now on my list of experiments is: Aluminum plate scuffed = up a bit
> with fine grit paper on random orbital sander, then a thin application= of
> "ABS paint".
>
>
>
> While on the subject of heat transfer (at least peripherally), I think= we
> lose a significant amount of the heat produced by the PCB to the
> surroundings. =C2=A0For example, the bottom of my plywood build platfo= rm is hot
> when my HBP is at 105. =C2=A0This means that I'm losing heat there= . =C2=A0If the edges
> of our build surface are warm/hot, we're losing heat there as well= .
> Reducing these heat losses means faster warm-up, and more uniform
> temperature across the surface. =C2=A0And, as mentioned in earlier pos= t, sanding
> off the lettering on the HBP will speed up surface warming.
>
> When my build surface is REPORTED as 105 C, that's what the thermi= ster
> reads. =C2=A0My IR temp gage says 100C at center of build surface, and= it falls
> off to ~ 90C at edges.
>
> =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Gary
> Make Better Things
> Make Things Better
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 12:53 PM, John Yang <lj.johny...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also swear by blue painters tape (BPT). =C2=A0I use it on top of= a 1/8th
>> inch thick aluminium plate on top of the hbp. =C2=A0The bed rises = to about
>> 95 and using brim on the latest slic3r helps keep the print solid = to
>> the bed for abs. =C2=A0To remove I use a putty knife to slide unde= r and pop
>> it off. =C2=A0I've ground a bevel on only one side of the putt= y knife so it
>> slides in easily. =C2=A0And if the tape rips, I peel off the strip= and put
>> a new one on. =C2=A0And the aluminium plate means I don't worr= y about
>> cutting the traces when removing a print and I get an even heat sp= read
>> and added thermal mass once up to temp to keep things on the bed e= ven
>> with light breezes. =C2=A0The cost is very low for the high perfor= mance you
>> can get.
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 4, 2012 at 12:43 PM, Ross Mosshart <ross.mossh...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> > Have you tried BPT? I swear it's a magical experience...<= br> >> >
>> > On Sep 4, 2012 11:42 AM, "Gary Schwartz" <gschwar...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I've tried mirror (shiny side up & shiny side dow= n) with & without
>> >> Kapton,
>> >> & Home-brew ABS "paint", plain glass with &= amp; without Kapton & ABS paint,
>> >> HBP
>> >> alone, and not happy with any.
>> >>
>> >> Lots of research led to the conclusion that the printed o= bject needs a
>> >> mechanical & chemical bond with the print bed. =C2=A0= Mechanical provided by
>> >> non-smooth surface, allowing extruded plastic to get a &q= uot;finger hold".
>> >> Some
>> >> have recommended sandblasted glass or sandblasted mirror.= =C2=A0I had
>> >> trouble
>> >> finding a sandblaster that would produce a uniform "= grippy" surface.
>> >> Also,
>> >> inconsistency from one to another could result in inconsi= stent results.
>> >> So
>> >> I gambled \$13.00 on a piece of Matte Shower Glass.
>> >>
>> >> I bought it from a bathroom specialty store that handles = tile, glass, &
>> >> all sorts of stuff. =C2=A0The man who cut the piece for m= e made it a point
>> >> to
>> >> describe it as "Matte" glass.
>> >>
>> >> My initial trials with ABS at 205 C hot end failed ... th= e print lifted
>> >> at
>> >> the ends. =C2=A0At 230 C, & 110 C bed, and a light ap= plication of home-brew
>> >> "ABS
>> >> Paint", I couldn't be more pleased with the resu= lts. =C2=A0As long as the
>> >> bed is
>> >> hot, I simply cannot remove the part. =C2=A0I've trie= d using pliers,
>> >> twisting,
>> >> turning, rotating, tried wedging it off with a blunt-nose= d X-Acto blade
>> >> ...
>> >> can't budge it.
>> >>
>> >> After cooling, it comes off with finger & thumb.
>> >>
>> >> Preparation for the next print involves only smearing a b= it of ABS
>> >> paint
>> >> on the surface.
>> >>
>> >> An example of its performance is printing the cubes (Thin= giverse
>> >> 23791).
>> >> These have a very small contact patch with the bed, and t= he printing
>> >> process
>> >> tries its best to break it loose.
>> >>
>> >> I highly recommend Matte shower glass.
>
>

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