Replicator v5.5 firmware vs v6.0 firmware

[delsydsoftware]

It looks like the v6.0 firmware handles curves much better than v5.5. I'm also noticing slightly less echoing on the sides of the model (especially around curved pieces). For the v5.5 model on the left, I was using tbuser's speed settings found here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbuser/7645393408/

For v6.0, I used the default speed settings. Both models were printed using the default accelerated settings in ReplicatorG. The v6.0 settings are only marginally louder than tbuser's settings, so I'm willing to trade a little extra noise for better precision.

[Matthew Marlowe]

Did you have to regenerate your s3g files to avoid having off-centered prints?
Any other issues using v6.0 while sticking with replicatorg?

[delsydsoftware]

The only issue I have seen so far is that prints using the left extruder are offset quite a bit to the right. The right extruder prints with the proper orientation. I regenerated the gcode for the print out of habit before I printed the v6.0 test.

[Elbot]

Is 6.0 firmware optimzed for Makerware or ReplicatorG? If the answer is ReplicatorG, then do I have to download and install a new version of replicatorg?

just trying to decide whether or not to install the new firmware.

how often on average do they come out with firmware updates?

thanks.

[Matthew Marlowe]

On Tue, Sep 25, 2012 at 5:09 AM, Elbot <tomas...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Is 6.0 firmware optimzed for Makerware or ReplicatorG? If the answer is
> ReplicatorG, then do I have to download and install a new version of
> replicatorg?
>

The 6.0 firmware seems to work perfectly fine with replicatorg. I'm
just finishing my first test print with it now. It does overwrite
acceleration preferences with a new set of recommendations. I reduced
most of those since I didn't see the need to make it move so fast. I
have no intention to print any faster than 60mm/s and nearly all my
prints avg out around 48mm/s which seems to be a good trade off
between quality and speed for ABS.

In any case, the most noticeable difference is simply that all the
issues with minor holes in floors or surfaces seem to be fixed. Since
this has been a major issue for me, I'm thrilled.

Now, I did notice that I had to re-level my HBP despite having the
lock thingie from thingiverse installed, but it had given me a good
ten or so prints between leveling which is much better then before.
And, I suspect that it is just the front screws that are slowly
loosening so perhaps I just need to occasionally tighten those.

I'm using 0.2 layers with up to two 4-9hr print jobs each day, and the
newest print uses 2 layers, 25% fill, 4 layers/wall, 15 second cool -
I'm pretty sure it is the best print of this design to date.

Matt
--
https://www.twitter.com/deploylinux

[Zak Kus]

define "HPB lock thingy from thingiverse" it sounds intriguing....

[Ar]

I think he's talking about these:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28723

I found it difficult to attach them without messing up my leveling.

-Andy

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[Chuck Joga]

I'm not exactly sold on these locks.  Since I started using a dial indicator, it's clear to me that there are some dynamic changes in HBP level-ness.  And even when the adjusters are locked, any slight pressure applied to remove a print will un-level the HBP as much as .005mm.  Maybe this is within tolerance, but can be detected when using a feeler guage.  AFAIK, the adjuster mechanisms cause enough binding at the interface points (springs, bolts, holes) that any pressure will relieve or add tension to these points and cause the HBP to become unleveled.

For those who use the locks and go weeks or more without re-leveling, I would really like to know if they have re-checked the level with a dial indicator and how much they are off when re-leveling.  

-Chuck

[Shawn]

I printed mine at 100% fill with 4 extra shells, 0.2mm layers. I did
this because an earlier print at lesser fill/shells left the "tips" hollow.

To attach them, I first level the platform. Then take one and line it
up with both screws - trying to avoid how much I have to rotate it after
attaching a screw to line up with the second screw. Then I kind of
twist it along it's length and push it onto the back screw. If I did it
right the front tip is already lined up with the front screw. If I have
to rotate it too much, I take it off and try again.

Now the hard part. With the back screw secured, I use one hand to bend
down the center of the arm (without removing it off the back screw) and
the other hand to push up on the tip until it slides into place. I may
have to twist the front clockwise/counter-clockwise to get it to catch
on the screw. Then just some gentle pressure to make sure both the
front and back are seated properly.

Rinse and repeat for the other side.

At this point, if everything is right, the screws *should* be locked in
place and your platform still level. And as long as you don't do
anything drastic to your platform, it should stay level for quite a
while. I'm currently on 2+ weeks since my last levelling action, and
all my prints are rock solid. (other than some extruder maintenance
issues I had to do)

Hope that helps in getting these things on. I'm sure there is a better
solution out there, but this one isn't too bad for now. (Nods at 66tbird!)

Shawn

On 12-09-26 04:00 AM, Ar wrote:
> I think he's talking about these:
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28723
>
> I found it difficult to attach them without messing up my leveling.
>
> -Andy
>
> On Sep 26, 2012, at 2:21 AM, Zak Kus <zak...@gmail.com

>> <mailto:make...@googlegroups.com>.

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>

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[Matthew Marlowe]

On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 9:31 AM, Shawn <sgr...@open2space.com> wrote:
> I printed mine at 100% fill with 4 extra shells, 0.2mm layers. I did this
> because an earlier print at lesser fill/shells left the "tips" hollow.
>

I'm pretty sure I didn't print mine out at 100% or with 4
shells...I'll try it out and see if it results in less time between
leveling.

Thanks for the idea.
Matt

[Zak Kus]

Hmm, seems like there needs to be a version where you can leave the jig in place while leveling. Maybe with just a little latch you can flick into place once you're ready?

[66tbird]

I'm one that hasn't had to re-level in a long long time. I don't use a dial indicator because, as you pointed out, is is very easy to move the HBP out of level with a simple touch. But I do check with a feeler and I'm always close enough to print .2mm.  I only designed this jig to prevent the nut from turning during operation. I had suspected the nut turning so I indexed them with a mark. Sure enough the side with loose spring tension would slowly turn over time. I've since added a washer to equalized the amount of tension. Then when I'm leveling I jiggle the bed hard to make sure all is seated. rarely does installing a lock/jig knock the leveling off but it has happened. What really moves the HBP in my case is the heated support arm sag. So I preheat and tram to .008 and usually use .2mm layer for most prints, I use a little 'freeze-it' and a light hammer tap with a spatula for gentle removal and I don't have an issue. I haven't even needed to wipe the surface with acetone for weeks.

[Mark Cohen]

Call support and ask them for new arms.

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