On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:31 PM, JohnA. <john.abe...
> *All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files -
> hereís your chance. *
> *Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:
> - Cupcake CNC: 100mm
> - Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
> - Replicator: 150mm
> - Replicator 2: 155mm
> And to check in on some competitors:
> - Printrbot Plus: 203mm
> - Ultimaker: 220mm
> - Series 1: 230mm
> With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the
> (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only
> pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.
> How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches.
> The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500
> cubic inches (err...498 I think).
> I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it
> look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the Ďwindowí shapes
> have been changed to reflect the Ďnew look.í
> Enough talk, letís get to the photos!
> ** <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8129250268_20d887235a.jpg>
> * <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8129224609_4d33549c3c.jpg>
> *More photos here: *
> We can only do this since the Replicator is Open Source Hardware, and as
> such Iíve put the laser-cut files online here:
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265 - please read to the bottom of
> this before you download them!
> The smooth rods I used are: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x
> David Randolph (of Replicator hood fame) is working on a set of
> ReplicatorXL acrylic windows for this new chassis. The existing Ďhoodí
> works great, and I printed with it all day.
> I got my wood parts cut by Grand Laser ( http://www.grandlaser.com/<http://www.grandlaser.com/)>) - but Iíve also worked at length with Angus Hines (
> http://angushines.com/ ) and he can do the wood parts as well.
> *No matter who you use, make sure you send the updated files from
> Thingiverse, as they both probably have my older files. The changes wonít
> impact pricing. *
> *Important Notes: *
> - This isnít a hard process, but itís also not a 1 hour job . I had
> to lengthen at least a dozen wires (stepper power / fan power / extruder
> heaters) by a few inches. The thermocouple, HBP, and endstop wires on mine
> were all long enough.
> - The case design DXF files on Thingiverse for the Replicator (
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813) are WRONG. These are not the
> production files - and it messed me up a bit. The mightyboard power / usb
> / reset button location has moved, requiring some dremel adjustments.
> * On the files I uploaded I think Iíve resolved it, but havenít tested
> it yet. * You might have to dremel these sections a little still. If
> youíre thinking about using them for the basis for a custom case mod, let
> me know and I can probably help.
> - I called MakerBot Support to get the Replicator assembly
> documentation that we were told they were close to releasing in January:
> Turns out it doesnít exist / canít be shared. So take good notes / pics
> when you take it apart, as there are no directions on how to assemble it.
> - If youíre getting the case cut on your own, itís 5.5mm plywood -
> birch I think.
> - *Warning:* This will not work with the MBI firmware 5.5 - and maybe
> not with 6.1 either. Thereís a problem with them hardcoding the axes
> length. You can change your .xml files all day long, but it wonít ever
> - *Double Warning: *If you wire something up wrong there's a real
> chance of blowing something up! You've been warned. Take good photos before
> hand, and double-check your work before you power anything on.
> Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with
> my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping
> after I spent hours messing with firmware issues.
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Gary A. Crowell Sr., P.E., CID+