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Gary Crowell  
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 More options Nov 6 2012, 1:06 pm
From: Gary Crowell <garyacrowel...@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2012 11:06:01 -0700
Local: Tues, Nov 6 2012 1:06 pm
Subject: Re: [MakerBot] (Unofficial) Replicator XL

I've got all the parts on order.  Since I'll have it essentially fully
disassembled, I was thinking that maybe it would be a good time to paint
the new sides before assembly.  I've got some Kilz primer and some white
enamel that I used on my wood (MDF) CNC router, which worked out well.
 What do you guys think?

Gary

On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:31 PM, JohnA. <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> *All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files -
> here’s your chance.  *
> *Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

> - Cupcake CNC: 100mm
> - Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
> - Replicator: 150mm
> - Replicator 2: 155mm

> And to check in on some competitors:

> - Printrbot Plus: 203mm
> - Ultimaker: 220mm
> - Series 1: 230mm

> With the swapping of just 6 pieces, a Replicator 1 can be made into the
> (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm.    The only
> pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

> How much bigger is it?  The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches.
>  The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches.  (Unofficial) Replicator XL?  500
> cubic inches (err...498 I think).

> I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it
> look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes
> have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’

> Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!

> ** <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8129250268_20d887235a.jpg>

> * <http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8051/8129224609_4d33549c3c.jpg>

> *More photos here:   *
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/sets/72157631867590921/with/
> 8129224609/

> We can only do this since the Replicator is Open Source Hardware, and as
> such I’ve put the laser-cut files online here:
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265 - please read to the bottom of
> this before you download them!

> The smooth rods I used are:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#6459K112   (8mm x
> 400mm)

> David Randolph (of Replicator hood fame) is working on a set of
> ReplicatorXL acrylic windows for this new chassis.   The existing ‘hood’
> works great, and I printed with it all day.

> I got my wood parts cut by Grand Laser ( http://www.grandlaser.com/<http://www.grandlaser.com/)>)  - but I’ve also worked at length with Angus Hines (
> http://angushines.com/ ) and he can do the wood parts as well.

> *No matter who you use, make sure you send the updated files from
> Thingiverse, as they both probably have my older files.   The changes won’t
> impact pricing.  *

> *Important Notes:    *

>    - This isn’t a hard process, but it’s also not a 1 hour job .  I had
>    to lengthen at least a dozen wires (stepper power / fan power / extruder
>    heaters) by a few inches.  The thermocouple, HBP, and endstop wires on mine
>    were all long enough.
>    - The case design DXF files on Thingiverse for the Replicator (
>    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18813) are WRONG.  These are not the
>    production files - and it messed me up a bit.  The mightyboard power / usb
>    / reset button location has moved, requiring some dremel adjustments.
>    * On the files I uploaded I think I’ve resolved it, but haven’t tested
>    it yet. * You might have to dremel these sections a little still.   If
>    you’re thinking about using them for the basis for a custom case mod, let
>    me know and I can probably help.
>    - I called MakerBot Support to get the Replicator assembly
>    documentation that we were told they were close to releasing in January:
>      Turns out it doesn’t exist / can’t be shared.   So take good notes / pics
>    when you take it apart, as there are no directions on how to assemble it.
>    - If you’re getting the case cut on your own, it’s 5.5mm plywood -
>    birch I think.
>    - *Warning:*  This will not work with the MBI firmware 5.5 - and maybe
>    not with 6.1 either.  There’s a problem with them hardcoding the axes
>    length.  You can change your .xml files all day long, but it won’t ever
>    work.
>    - *Double Warning: *If you wire something up wrong there's a real
>    chance of blowing something up! You've been warned. Take good photos before
>    hand, and double-check your work before you power anything on.

> Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame)  for helping with
> my meager DXF editing skills.    Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping
> after I spent hours messing with firmware issues.

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--
----------------------------------------------
Gary A. Crowell Sr., P.E., CID+
Linkedin <http://www.linkedin.com/in/garyacrowellsr>
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  KE7FIZ <http://www.arrl.org>

 
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