Lead vs. Lead-free Solder Paste for the heated build platform?
Stan Seibert
surface mount soldering, which I've never done before. Not
surprisingly the SMT kit on the MakerBot store is out of stock, so I'm
trying to cobble together the equipment from various sources.
The SMT kit (when it was available) came with Zeph 63% Sn/ 37% Pb
solder paste. Since I'm ordering direct from Zeph now, I have the
choice between the leaded vs. lead-free solder paste. Is their any
disadvantage for a surface mount-n00b in going with the lead-free
stuff? I don't really want to add to my lead quota if there's no
need, but if lead-free solder paste is harder to work with, I'm
willing to face the peril. :)
mfsamuel
temperature to wet, and are not quite as easy to work with. I've been
told that they don't self-center parts as well also, but I have not
noticed that in the limited amount i do.
Cathal Garvey
Feck. Didn't realise there was assembly required, especially smt! Dammit!
On Apr 5, 2010 9:01 PM, "mfsamuel" <mfsa...@gmail.com> wrote:
In general the lead-free solders require a higher operating
temperature to wet, and are not quite as easy to work with. I've been
told that they don't self-center parts as well also, but I have not
noticed that in the limited amount i do.
On Apr 5, 3:43 pm, Stan Seibert <s...@mtrr.org> wrote: > It just dawned on me that the Heated Build...
Lyndondr
surface mount. It did say kit in the title.
On Apr 6, 12:16 pm, Cathal Garvey <cathalgar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Feck. Didn't realise there was assembly required, especially smt! Dammit!
>
Cathal Garvey
The Makerbot is a kit, and I didn't need a reflow oven! :) I'll figure it out. Would like LEDs as a safety feature.
On Apr 6, 2010 6:50 PM, "Lyndondr" <lynd...@gmail.com> wrote:
If you skip the led's there is one resistor and capacitor that is
surface mount. It did say kit in the title.
On Apr 6, 12:16 pm, Cathal Garvey <cathalgar...@gmail.com> wrote: > Feck. Didn't realise there was ...
> On Apr 5, 2010 9:01 PM, "mfsamuel" <mfsam...@gmail.com> wrote: > > In general the lead-free solder...
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Matthew Wilson
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Owen M Collins
What happens when it gets old?
O.
Matthew Wilson
bagged please)
bad solder paste either dries out, or if still wet will form bubbles
when heated and 'pop' components out of place.
Marty McGuire
deluxe kits back in September that came with the SMT soldering kit. I
was planning to use that kit on my heated build platform. Should I
look at getting new solder paste?
Sorry for the n00b question. :)
--Marty
Andrew Plumb
My syringe of paste is still quite usable and it's over a year old now. It's been open for at least nine of those but recapped immediately after use and stored in a plastic bag.
Andrew.
--
"The future is already here. It's just not very evenly distributed" -- William Gibson
Matthew Wilson
refrigerated all that time and it still works fine for hot-air rework.
The stuff near the tip dries out if left for more than a few years
and has to be purged to get to the good stuff.
Cathal Garvey
I've heard much of using toaster ovens. I have such an oven, how hot need it be? And how hot is too hot?
Thanks!
SMT isn't that hard. Just take your time and use lots of flux.
letters.cunningprojects.com
twitter.com/onetruecathal
twitter.com/labsfromfabs
Matthew Wilson
never want to use the oven for toast again.
Oren Beck
hassle though. Reading up on the finer details is half the battle. The
rest is going to take some learning curve. But it's not totally a deal
breaker. It just feels that way while learning :) Just like running
these 'bots. We learn patience.
RoHS compliant paste/flux is workable, but it's incredibly more
intolerant of ANY less than perfect conditions. Which makes using it a
true PITA compared to Lead/Tin/Rosin based methods. The main issues
with RoHS solder involve pre and post cleaning steps due to the flux
chemistries, and temperature "curves" for heat and cooldown. IIRC one
presumed cause for some recent consumer electronics failures is the
process detail sensitive nature of unleaded tech. Good luck on getting
your 'bot on line easily.
On Apr 6, 6:51 pm, Matthew Wilson <matt...@shinythings.com> wrote:
> sparkfun has some notes on using a toaster oven. Of course you'll
> never want to use the oven for toast again.
>
> On Tue, Apr 6, 2010 at 4:34 PM, Cathal Garvey <cathalgar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Weirdly, there is no flux available in my local electronics stores,
> > including Maplin. Ebay will, no doubt. I just wish I'd placed an order for
> > an SMT kit from Makerbot when I was ordering this kit..
>
> > I've heard much of using toaster ovens. I have such an oven, how hot need it
> > be? And how hot is too hot?
>
> > Thanks!
>
Devlin
solder. You need a fairly fine soldering iron tip and a pair of
tweezers. Heat up one pad of the device on the PCB and get a bead of
solder there. Position the device you are about to solder on the the
PCB near where it will be soldered. Heat up that bead of solder with
your iron, and using your tweezers in your other hand, slide the
device so that the appropriate lead is in the solder, remove the iron
and let the solder cool. Apply a bead of solder to the rest of the
leads of the device. There should be more details about this process
from SparkFun, maybe in something to do with their SMT Simon kit. This
technique will not work for BGAs and other devices where the leads are
not accessible. Start inside working your way out, with the shortest
devices first, then work up to the larger devices to keep tall things
from getting in your way. Relaxation is the key to a steady hand. Have
fun!
Eric Smith
Watch out when expecting to use them in that way. Just because the
LEDs are off does NOT mean that the platform is cool. I think I'll
finally attach an LCD to my Makerbot specifically to show the platform
temperature. Maybe one of those LCDs that lets you control the
backlight color.
Ethan Dicks
That might be a handy mod - steal the spare PWM channel to run a
high-brightness red LED that varies in brightness based on the
detected temp from the platform. The LEDs around the bottom of the
Makerbot HBP would still light when the heating element has power
(since that's hardwired), but it might be useful to have a new
temperature-sensitive LED placed somewhere prominent (like on one of
the Dinos) so that as you reach in, you are reminded that the platform
is still hot. With an extra wire or two, the "hot platform" LED could
be mounted on the bottom of the platform.
It takes away the PWM channel for the fan (and you'd have to remember
to use a larger current limiting resistor, naturally) but the firmware
changes to the extruder would be minimal. Perhaps it makes sense as a
checkbox option (control fan vs indicate hot HBP) , but that would
require a RepG update.
-ethan
Len Trigg
display driven via i2c off the extruder board. I would be very tempted
to build that as an add-on if it did HBP temp too. Does anyone know
whether these patches are available?
Cheers,
Len.
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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Ethan Dicks
> Zaggo has his firmware patched to display extruder temp on a small LCD
> display driven via i2c off the extruder board.
I've seen that and it looks really neat. I have picked up an I2C I/O
chip but haven't had time to graft it onto a display yet.
> I would be very tempted to build that as an add-on if it did HBP temp too.
The LCD code (and Wire library) take up quite a bit of room on the
Extruder board, but there might be room for that functionality as
well. I was asking about code size and such a few weeks ago and
found out that the additional code is something like 7K to 9K, library
included. Given that the Arduino boot loader is around 1-2K, I
_think_ you have to direct program the extruder firmware after it
swells up with the new code. Switching out the '168 for a '328 would
relieve that pressure.
> Does anyone know whether these patches are available?
I checked the dev and firmware lists and couldn't find a link, but
there may be a link on Zaggo's blog.
-ethan
Koen Kooi
Op 7 apr 2010 om 21:06 heeft Len Trigg <len...@gmail.com> het volgende
geschreven:\
> Zaggo has his firmware patched to display extruder temp on a small
> LCD display driven via i2c off the extruder board. I would be very
> tempted to build that as an add-on if it did HBP temp too. Does
> anyone know whether these patches are available?
Even sending as 'plain' i2c would be nice. That would enable me to
another platform (beagleboard) for displaying that info.
regards,
Koen
Thomas Charron
Zaggo has his firmware patched to display extruder temp on a small LCD display driven via i2c off the extruder board. I would be very tempted to build that as an add-on if it did HBP temp too. Does anyone know whether these patches are available?
Cheers,
Len.
--
-- Thomas
Revar Desmera
The Code: http://www.belfry.com/code/SanguinoMaster-LCD.zip
The Hexfile: http://www.belfry.com/code/SanguinoMaster.hex
Expected Keypad Layout: http://pics.livejournal.com/revar/pic/0003ew8x/g7
General screenshots: http://revar.livejournal.com/89159.html#cutid1
- Revar
Chris Coleman
kit including all the LEDs and resistors by hand with a fine tipped
soldering iron (and a good set of tweezers). you have to have a
steady hand and be comfortable with soldering but it is very doable.
Chris
Jan Gjoseter
This looks great! Do you have a schematic of your hookup for the display? Do you have an additional controller pulling I2C data from the motherboard or is the Sanguino driving the LCD directly?
Thanks, Jan
Revar Desmera
( http://www.modtronix.com/index.php?cPath=131_141 )
The Modtronics controller has support for up to a 4x4 keypad, so I just poll the LCD to get keypresses. I don't have a formal schematic for it, but the hookup was really simple based on the info in the display's dataspecs.
( http://www.modtronix.com/products/lcd2s/lcd2sr1_v140.pdf )
I just used individual test jumper leads that slide right onto the pins. I'd take a photo of the wiring, but I'm in a 2 hour build of a part right now. :)
I've made a few fixes and improvements to the firmware from what is available for download. I'll package up the improvements and put them up tomorrow.
- Revar
Jordan Miller
maybe email me off list and we can try to put it into the main trunk as a branch so keeping up with changes (v2.0?) will be easier.
jordan
Jordan Miller
Eberhard -- if you're reading this thread have you updated your code also to the latest G3 firmware changes? It looks like the zaggoLCD branch has not changed since the first version.
would be really cool to have both of these designs as easily approachable optional installs. it's still a bit over my head all of the I2C discussion and which pins go where...
jordan
Revar Desmera
I admit I'm kind of paleolithic oldschool when it comes to revision control systems. I come out of using CVS/SVN for my projects, so I'm not really familiar with how git works, but I'm willing to learn. :)
- Revar
TeamTeamUSA
http://www.modtronix.com/product_info.php?products_id=289
It's listed as compatible with the display but I'm not sure Revar's
code would work with it.
Some white stickers over the keys could make it cupcake custom though.
Go!
=ml=
On Apr 10, 8:40 am, Jordan Miller <jrdn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Revar -- where did you get the keypad from? can you do a page on the makerbot wiki with instructions and a video of operation? That is so awesome!!!!
>
> Eberhard -- if you're reading this thread have you updated your code also to the latest G3 firmware changes? It looks like the zaggoLCD branch has not changed since the first version.
>
> would be really cool to have both of these designs as easily approachable optional installs. it's still a bit over my head all of the I2C discussion and which pins go where...
>
> jordan
>
> On Apr 9, 2010, at 11:08 PM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> > I'm using the I2C bus pins to drive a $40 Modtronix LCD2S serial 20x4 LCD display.
> > (http://www.modtronix.com/index.php?cPath=131_141)
> > The Modtronics controller has support for up to a 4x4 keypad, so I just poll the LCD to get keypresses. I don't have a formal schematic for it, but the hookup was really simple based on the info in the display's dataspecs.
> > (http://www.modtronix.com/products/lcd2s/lcd2sr1_v140.pdf)
> > I just used individual test jumper leads that slide right onto the pins. I'd take a photo of the wiring, but I'm in a 2 hour build of a part right now. :)
>
> > I've made a few fixes and improvements to the firmware from what is available for download. I'll package up the improvements and put them up tomorrow.
>
> > - Revar
>
> > On Apr 9, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Jan Gjoseter wrote:
>
> >> Revar,
>
> >> This looks great! Do you have a schematic of your hookup for the display? Do you have an additional controller pulling I2C data from the motherboard or is the Sanguino driving the LCD directly?
>
> >> Thanks, Jan
>
> >>> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
>
> >> --
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>
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Revar Desmera
- Revar
Revar Desmera
I laser cut a grid of 16 mounting holes for the buttons on the front of my (admittedly very custom) printer, and mounted all the buttons, then soldered them together in rows and columns.
Lastly I carefully superglued the wood keycaps to the button tops. They stay on great.
I've been working on an external controller design with a real keypad, and instructions for Thingiverse, but the wiki is a good idea as well.
- Revar
Jordan Miller
here's what I had planned: if we can figure out the exact commit you pulled the source code from to begin hacking, we can just merge it with that commit, no matter when it was. Then we will use git to automagically rebase the current v2.0 BETA firmware on top of your mods.
if we can figure this out, the upshot is we will have a branch of the v2.0 BETA firmware that supports heated build platform, keypad, and LCD without having to grok all mods to the code since then.
win!
jordan
jan.gj...@gmail.com
Thanks!
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
Jordan Miller
there are some great tutorials that have come out in the last couple years. If you have SVN experience, I'm told this is the place to go:
http://git-scm.com/course/svn.html
this one's also good:
http://www.kernel.org/pub/software/scm/git/docs/gittutorial.html
otherwise, for super-newbies (this is at the level I had started at, with zero knowledge of version control):
http://hoth.entp.com/output/git_for_designers.html
jordan
Revar Desmera
I'm not sure we'll get all the upgrades up to 2.0 beta for free, as the keypad code references the pointbuffer queue for movement, and I recall hearing that there is no longer a separate pointbuffer. Not too big a problem, as I can change to putting the movement request in the command queue instead.
If all else fails, it shouldn't be too hard for me to hack my changes into modern 2.0 code.
- Revar
Revar Desmera
The Code: http://www.belfry.com/code/reprap-gen3-firmware-lcdkeypad.tgz
The Hexfile: http://www.belfry.com/code/SanguinoMaster.hex
Expected Keypad Layout: http://pics.livejournal.com/revar/pic/0003ew8x/g7
General screenshots: http://revar.livejournal.com/89159.html#cutid1 (Now with fixed permissions!)
- Revar
On Apr 11, 2010, at 12:44 AM, Jordan Miller wrote:
Jordan Miller
Ah, good to know. Ok well it looks like it won't work the way I had hoped. The date will actually be a problem, because the oldest git commit is October 21st (when G3Firmware was migrated from SVN), so we're missing a bunch of intervening git commits.
More importantly though, if you already expect the code won't merge easy (I have no idea what a pointbuffer is, unfortunately, so I'm probably not the best one to look into code merge conflicts), then if you would be willing to hack on the latest code instead it would be very straightforward for me to merge it all back together.
Here's what to do:
Grab this zipball:
http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/zipball/v2.0a1
That link corresponds to Firmware v2.0 BETA 2 that just came out.
if you can hack on that zipball to merge your firmware code and update it to command queue style, then post a link to the new zipball of your working code, I will merge the changes you made back into the main G3Firmware trunk so your firmware won't become out of date again (we'll just make a new branch for this firmware and use git to automatically fast-forward it when new changes come out).
Then, pending Adam Mayer's approval (and code review?), it will probably get merged back into MakerBot's shipping firmware. Then everyone will get LCD and keypad firmware additions automatically on the next release (maybe even before v2.0 comes out of beta!).
wow I'm going to order an LCD and keypad now...!
jordan
Revar Desmera
http://www.belfry.com/code/makerbot-G3Firmware-b822094-lcd.zip
- Revar
Jordan Miller
Here is a link to download the latest version of your code:
http://github.com/downloads/makerbot/G3Firmware/RevarLCD_FastForwarded.zip
it matches git commit#: b30a748ecc92c378af31db85bb712e4c9a3b066b
(I made a change too after the fast-forwarding-- deleting Configuration.h because the convention is to have Configuration.h.dist in the source tree and have the user duplicate it to Configuration.h herself for editing before compiling. I checked that they were identical files with diff and checksum before deleting it.)
You can browse the changes from fast-forwarding here:
http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/commit/507f6db55c24d06c1528d8fdf9fb05ead93d630f
Git merging and fast-forwarding makes it look like Adam already modified your codebase. :)
The network browser, while a little chaotic, shows you all the branches, and who's got which changes (click and drag the map):
http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/network
Let us know what happens when you test this code on your live bot!
jordan
Revar Desmera
Hmm. Looking at this, I'm not sure if I edited the right code. I merged my code into the SanguinoMaster directory, but I see a v2 directory, which looks like a near total rewrite of the firmware code. Was I supposed to try merging with that?
- Revar
Jordan Miller
http://wiki.makerbot.com/v2-firmware
I guess it is mostly a rewrite?
jordan
Revar Desmera
- Revar
>>>>>>>>>>> To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
Jordan Miller
jordan
Adam Mayer
and I'll get them supported under v2 as well. -a
Jordan Miller
Revar Desmera
For a stock Cupcake CNC use around the following settings:
#define STEPS_PER_MM_XY 11.767463
#define STEPS_PER_MM_Z 320.0
#define MAX_MM_PER_MIN_XY 5000
#define MAX_MM_PER_MIN_Z 150
#define JOG_STEP_DELAY_XY 1700 /* microseconds */
#define JOG_STEP_DELAY_Z 1800 /* microseconds */
- Revar
Cathal Garvey
twitter.com/onetruecathal
twitter.com/labsfromfabs
Revar Desmera
- Revar
Revar Desmera
- Revar
On Apr 11, 2010, at 4:13 AM, Jordan Miller wrote:
Cathal Garvey
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Jordan Miller
jordan
Revar Desmera
void fetch_next_byte() {
int16_t read = fat_read_file(file, &next_byte, 1);
playback_file_position += read;
has_more = read > 0;
}
Basically just adding the playback_file_position line.
- Revar
Jordan Miller
TeamTeamUSA
got all that I need for Revar's LCD solution since the parts fly all
the way from Syndney AU. Here's what I've got:
* KPAD16
* Keypad Cable CAB8RIB150
* LCD2S-204FHB
Is this all I need? Is there another vendor for the same parts closer
than Australia?
TIA.
Go!
=ml=
On Apr 11, 5:10 pm, Cathal Garvey <cathalgar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Excellent! Can't wait to see it. :D
>
> On 12 April 2010 01:05, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Already working on that. Designing, testing, redesigning, retesting, and
> > documenting the build takes a lot of time, but I've got an entry for
> > Thingiverse.com in the works. I spent most of my day yesterday taking
> > photos of the build process.
>
> > - Revar
>
> > On Apr 11, 2010, at 4:54 PM, Cathal Garvey wrote:
>
> > > Oh, larger build envelope eh? :D Care to share "sources" so we can see
> > how?
>
> > > On 12 April 2010 00:46, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > One thing I just recalled I should mention is that the config settings at
> > the end of Configuration.h.dist are NOT for a stock CupcakeCNC. My own
> > fabber is a notional descendant of the Makerbot, which I designed and built
> > using parts I could get from my local hardware store and McMaster Carr.
> > (Makerbot was out of stock of a lot of parts when I started, and I designed
> > mine to build about 150mm size in each dimension.) It uses the exact same
> > Gen3 electronics, though.
>
> > > For a stock Cupcake CNC use around the following settings:
> > > #define STEPS_PER_MM_XY 11.767463
> > > #define STEPS_PER_MM_Z 320.0
> > > #define MAX_MM_PER_MIN_XY 5000
> > > #define MAX_MM_PER_MIN_Z 150
> > > #define JOG_STEP_DELAY_XY 1700 /* microseconds */
> > > #define JOG_STEP_DELAY_Z 1800 /* microseconds */
>
> > > - Revar
>
> > --
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Jordan Miller
i also got this addition (which you might already have some of, and so wouldn't need to order):
2 of Product#: HDR1X32M254
Pin Headers
http://www.modtronix.com/product_info.php?products_id=54
$0.80x2 = $1.60
sounds like we'll be helping each other on this listserv soon enough!!
jordan
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
Jan Gjoseter
Placed the order yesterday and just got my ship notification! Now I just have to wait a few days till it gets here!
I ordered:
LCD2S-204FHB
key pad: http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=798
Cable: http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=2545
Jan
Revar Desmera
- Revar
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
Jordan Miller
we'll see how long the boat takes to get here for my parts =]
jordan
Revar Desmera
The LCD2S's 0.1" pinout for I2C connection looks like:
------------------
| 2 4 (6)(8)(10)|
| 1 3 (5) 7 9 |
------------------
Where I2C uses (shown with parens):
Pin 5: +5V/VCC
Pin 6: GND
Pin 8: SDA
Pin 10: SCL
On the motherboard side, the I2C connectors have the 0.1" pinout:
-----------
| 1 2 3 4 |
-----------
Where the pins are the following:
Pin 1: +5V/VCC
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: SDA
Pin 4: SCL
- Revar
TeamTeamUSA
the wiring here.
Stupid question: where does this LCD get its power? The I2C connector?
Go!
=ml=
On Apr 13, 3:25 pm, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Yes, I had to solder some 4-pin headers to the I2C block of my reprap motherboard. Wiring from the I2C header to the LCD2S is slightly trickier as the pinouts are not the same. I just used 4 test wires that are designed to slide onto individual pins. With creative wiring, though, you can use a 4-pin CDROM audio cable for the motherboard side and a 10-pin dual-row rectangular plug for the LCD side.
>
> The LCD2S's 0.1" pinout for I2C connection looks like:
> ------------------
> | 2 4 (6)(8)(10)|
> | 1 3 (5) 7 9 |
> ------------------
>
> Where I2C uses (shown with parens):
> Pin 5: +5V/VCC
> Pin 6: GND
> Pin 8: SDA
> Pin 10: SCL
>
> On the motherboard side, the I2C connectors have the 0.1" pinout:
> -----------
> | 1 2 3 4 |
> -----------
>
> Where the pins are the following:
> Pin 1: +5V/VCC
> Pin 2: GND
> Pin 3: SDA
> Pin 4: SCL
>
> -Revar
>
>
> > Hey Miles,
>
> > i also got this addition (which you might already have some of, and so wouldn't need to order):
>
> > 2 of Product#: HDR1X32M254
> > Pin Headers
> >http://www.modtronix.com/product_info.php?products_id=54
> > $0.80x2 = $1.60
>
> > sounds like we'll be helping each other on this listserv soon enough!!
>
> >jordan
>
> > On Apr 13, 2010, at 4:52 PM, TeamTeamUSA wrote:
>
> >> So I'm loading up my Modtronix cart again, and want to make sure I've
>
> >> * KPAD16
> >> * Keypad Cable CAB8RIB150
> >> * LCD2S-204FHB
>
> >> Is this all I need? Is there another vendor for the same parts closer
> >> than Australia?
> >> TIA.
>
> >> Go!
>
> >> =ml=
>
> >> On Apr 11, 5:10 pm, Cathal Garvey <cathalgar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> Excellent! Can't wait to see it. :D
>
>
> >>>> Already working on that. Designing, testing, redesigning, retesting, and
> >>>> documenting the build takes a lot of time, but I've got an entry for
> >>>> Thingiverse.com in the works. I spent most of my day yesterday taking
> >>>> photos of the build process.
>
> >>>> -Revar
>
> >>>> On Apr 11, 2010, at 4:54 PM, Cathal Garvey wrote:
>
> >>>>> Oh, larger build envelope eh? :D Care to share "sources" so we can see
> >>>> how?
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
Ethan Dicks
> Stupid question: where does this LCD get its power? The I2C connector?
connector on the extruder board (there is one) are 4-pin connectors,
Vcc, GND, clock and data.
I use one of them to power my off-board RS-232 adapter for my
motherboard since the 6-pin programming connector doesn't pass Vcc
to/from the motherboard.
I don't think the pins are in the same order, but my i2c LCDs I
already have (Matrix Orbital at least, perhaps one or two more) also
have a 4-pin connector with the same signals - I just need to make up
a cable. Those wouldn't use the same code to talk to - there's a PIC
or an AVR on those that read i2c packets as text strings to display
(vs the other technique of a motherboard raising and lowering I/O pins
on an I/O expander to manipulate the HD44780 on the LCD itself).
LCDs that have native i2c interfaces are _not_ inexpensive. I think
they start at $50 for small formats and go up over $100 for 4x20 or
larger. Displays using a bare HD44780 can be had for under $10, and
an i2c I/O expander is a couple of dollars from Digikey, but it takes
lots more firmware space to hold the code to drive them. It's a
matter of where to put the money - into a better MCU or a smarter
peripheral. In the end, users see lines of text flash by either way.
-ethan
JohnWasser
Unlike microcontrollershop.com it only comes in one color scheme
(white text on blue) but the price is right: $24.95 (vs. $39.95)
On Apr 16, 7:00 pm, Ethan Dicks <ethan.di...@gmail.com> wrote:
> LCDs that have native i2c interfaces are _not_ inexpensive. I think
> they start at $50 for small formats and go up over $100 for 4x20 or
> larger. Displays using a bare HD44780 can be had for under $10, and
> an i2c I/O expander is a couple of dollars from Digikey, but it takes
> lots more firmware space to hold the code to drive them.
Revar Desmera
- Revar
Sent from my iPad
Jan
board LCD2S204 http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=1719
This is only the I2C to LCD board and will go with most 20x4 LCD
modules. this is "only" US$ 24....
On Apr 17, 7:30 am, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Cool. That LCD unit does use a different control scheme than the Modtronix unit, though. I'll work up a driver for it based on its spec sheet. I won't be able to test it, of course, but I can at least provide a starting point.
>
> -Revar
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
> > I just ordered a 4x20 i2c LCD module fromhttp://web4robot.com/SerialLCD.html.
> > (white text on blue) but the price is right: $24.95 (vs. $39.95)
>
> > On Apr 16, 7:00 pm, Ethan Dicks <ethan.di...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> LCDs that have native i2c interfaces are _not_ inexpensive. I think
> >> they start at $50 for small formats and go up over $100 for 4x20 or
> >> larger. Displays using a bare HD44780 can be had for under $10, and
> >> an i2c I/O expander is a couple of dollars from Digikey, but it takes
> >> lots more firmware space to hold the code to drive them.
>
> > --
> > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.To post to this group, send email tomak...@googlegroups.com.To unsubscribe from this group, send email tomakerbot+...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
Jan
I got my kit in yesterday and am putting together the HW. Have you
made any progress on merging Rvear's SW with the latest firmware?
On Apr 11, 3:14 pm, Jordan Miller <jrdn...@gmail.com> wrote:
> great!! it's the new revarLCD branch:http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/tree/revarLCD
>
> jordan
>
> On Apr 11, 2010, at 3:12 PM, Adam Mayer wrote:
>
> > v2 is still pretty underdocumented, but point me at the changes to v1
> > and I'll get them supported under v2 as well. -a
>
> >> ok. well I guess we've updated v1 so that should have all the latest v1 stuff (v1.8 with HBP). so that could be used for testing until we get v2 figured out. Maybe now would be the time for me to learn the firmware too!
>
> >>jordan
>
> >> On Apr 11, 2010, at 2:50 PM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> >>> Okay then, I'll see what I can do to merge with v2 then.
>
> >>> - Revar
>
>
> >>>> oh crap. according to this, yes:
> >>>>http://wiki.makerbot.com/v2-firmware
>
> >>>> I guess it is mostly a rewrite?
>
> >>>>jordan
>
>
> >>>>> Thanks!
>
> >>>>> Hmm. Looking at this, I'm not sure if I edited the right code. I merged my code into the SanguinoMaster directory, but I see a v2 directory, which looks like a near total rewrite of the firmware code. Was I supposed to try merging with that?
>
> >>>>> - Revar
>
>
> >>>>>> Thanks Revar! That is excellent. It's now on github and I was able to automatically fast-forward your code to Adam's latest changes (such as his re-introduction of fan support, which will come out in v2.0 BETA 3). Hooray!!!
>
> >>>>>> Here is a link to download the latest version of your code:
> >>>>>> (I made a change too after the fast-forwarding-- deleting Configuration.h because the convention is to have Configuration.h.dist in the source tree and have the user duplicate it to Configuration.h herself for editing before compiling. I checked that they were identical files with diff and checksum before deleting it.)
>
> >>>>>> You can browse the changes from fast-forwarding here:
> >>>>>> Git merging and fast-forwarding makes it look like Adam already modified your codebase. :)
>
> >>>>>> The network browser, while a little chaotic, shows you all the branches, and who's got which changes (click and drag the map):
> >>>>>>http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/network
>
> >>>>>> Let us know what happens when you test this code on your live bot!
>
> >>>>>>jordan
>
> >>>>>> On Apr 11, 2010, at 6:29 AM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> >>>>>>> Well, merging my changes into that zipball wasn't nearly as troublesome as I expected. I have a compilable version already, though I can't actually test it until I get into the shop tomorrow where my fabber is. I'll confirm it tomorrow. In the meantime, here's the new zipball:
>
> >>>>>>>http://www.belfry.com/code/makerbot-G3Firmware-b822094-lcd.zip
>
> >>>>>>> - Revar
>
>
> >>>>>>>> Hi Revar,
>
> >>>>>>>> Ah, good to know. Ok well it looks like it won't work the way I had hoped. The date will actually be a problem, because the oldest git commit is October 21st (when G3Firmware was migrated from SVN), so we're missing a bunch of intervening git commits.
>
> >>>>>>>> More importantly though, if you already expect the code won't merge easy (I have no idea what a pointbuffer is, unfortunately, so I'm probably not the best one to look into code merge conflicts), then if you would be willing to hack on the latest code instead it would be very straightforward for me to merge it all back together.
>
> >>>>>>>> Here's what to do:
>
> >>>>>>>> Grab this zipball:
> >>>>>>>>http://github.com/makerbot/G3Firmware/zipball/v2.0a1
>
> >>>>>>>> That link corresponds to Firmware v2.0 BETA 2 that just came out.
>
> >>>>>>>> if you can hack on that zipball to merge your firmware code and update it to command queue style, then post a link to the new zipball of your working code, I will merge the changes you made back into the main G3Firmware trunk so your firmware won't become out of date again (we'll just make a new branch for this firmware and use git to automatically fast-forward it when new changes come out).
>
> >>>>>>>> Then, pending Adam Mayer's approval (and code review?), it will probably get merged back into MakerBot's shipping firmware. Then everyone will get LCD and keypad firmware additions automatically on the next release (maybe even before v2.0 comes out of beta!).
>
> >>>>>>>> wow I'm going to order an LCD and keypad now...!
>
> >>>>>>>>jordan
>
> >>>>>>>> On Apr 11, 2010, at 4:33 AM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>> From the timestamps on files in my backups, it appears that the 1.6 code I derived from was a snapshot from Friday, October 2, 2009 at about 12:36 PM.
>
> >>>>>>>>> I'm not sure we'll get all the upgrades up to 2.0 beta for free, as the keypad code references the pointbuffer queue for movement, and I recall hearing that there is no longer a separate pointbuffer. Not too big a problem, as I can change to putting the movement request in the command queue instead.
>
> >>>>>>>>> If all else fails, it shouldn't be too hard for me to hack my changes into modern 2.0 code.
>
> >>>>>>>>> - Revar
>
>
> >>>>>>>>>> ah, okay. I'm digging into your code, from file modification dates it looks like you pulled the source code to begin hacking sometime around August? Anyway you can find out what date you pulled the source?
>
> >>>>>>>>>> here's what I had planned: if we can figure out the exact commit you pulled the source code from to begin hacking, we can just merge it with that commit, no matter when it was. Then we will use git to automagically rebase the current v2.0 BETA firmware on top of your mods.
>
> >>>>>>>>>> if we can figure this out, the upshot is we will have a branch of the v2.0 BETA firmware that supports heated build platform, keypad, and LCD without having to grok all mods to the code since then.
>
> >>>>>>>>>> win!
>
> >>>>>>>>>>jordan
>
> >>>>>>>>>> On Apr 10, 2010, at 3:46 PM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> >>>>>>>>>>> I derived my code from the stock SanguinoMaster 1.6 firmware sources. I don't recall exactly where I got it from. I've tried to keep the majority of my changes fairly modular, though.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>> I admit I'm kind of paleolithic oldschool when it comes to revision control systems. I come out of using CVS/SVN for my projects, so I'm not really familiar with how git works, but I'm willing to learn. :)
>
> >>>>>>>>>>> - Revar
>
>
> read more »
Jordan Miller
I merged Revar's updated v1 Firmware into the latest v1 firmware on github, checkout the revarLCD branch with git after you download the source:
http://github.com/makerbot/g3firmware/tree/revarLCD
if you need a direct link and don't want to mess with git let me know.
jordan
Revar Desmera
- Revar
Jordan Miller
Jan -- did you complete your LCD kit build? Any pics or tips on where to get started?
jordan
jan.gj...@gmail.com
I built up the hardware cables last weekend but have not had time to test the software yet. The cables are really easy to make if you follow Revar's layout from a few post ago. The I2C bus is only 4 wires and the keyboard was 8(I believe). I will take some pictures and post next week. It takes me quite a few tries to do a firmware change so after the pain of upgrading to V2.1 and 2.2 and back to 1.6 I took a break. I hope to find some time this next week to test.
I did take a look at Revar's code and it looks as if his LCD code is in 2 main parts and not too complex. My C++ experience is fairly limited so it is taking some time to figure out what is going on. I also am trying to decipher the main MakerBot code for the first time and learn Git so I am having a lot of fun ;-)
By the way can you post or send me the hex files after you have compiled them for a standard MakerBot?
Jan
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
TeamTeamUSA
MakerBot [so they can officially support and test it]!
What are next steps?
I created a Wiki page to collect everything in one place:
http://wiki.makerbot.com/lcd-control-panels
Feel free to edit.
It looks like a future Cupcake version will contain an LCD with
similar control to Revar's solution [look at rev 15 in the page
history]: http://wiki.makerbot.com/generation-4
Jordan, the keys in the Modtronix keypad are easily replaceable; just
unscrew the PCB. The LCD character generator http://www.modtronix.com/info/cgramcalc/
and Tony Buser's character lib http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054
could yield some cool custom printed keys.
Go!
=ml=
On Apr 24, 9:20 pm, jan.gjose...@gmail.com wrote:
> Jordan
>
> I built up the hardware cables last weekend but have not had time to test the software yet. The cables are really easy to make if you follow Revar's layout from a few post ago. The I2C bus is only 4 wires and the keyboard was 8(I believe). I will take some pictures and post next week. It takes me quite a few tries to do a firmware change so after the pain of upgrading to V2.1 and 2.2 and back to 1.6 I took a break. I hope to find some time this next week to test.
>
> I did take a look at Revar's code and it looks as if his LCD code is in 2 main parts and not too complex. My C++ experience is fairly limited so it is taking some time to figure out what is going on. I also am trying to decipher the main MakerBot code for the first time and learn Git so I am having a lot of fun ;-)
>
> By the way can you post or send me the hex files after you have compiled them for a standard MakerBot?
>
> Jan
>
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jordan Miller <jrdn...@gmail.com>
> Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:55:15
> To: <make...@googlegroups.com>
> Subject: Re: Heated platform temp indicator. Was Re: [MakerBot] Re: Lead vs...
>
> Revar -- We got our LCD kit! Did you post those build instructions on thingiverse? Looking forward to make this happen.
>
> Jan -- did you complete your LCD kit build? Any pics or tips on where to get started?
>
> jordan
>
> On Apr 18, 2010, at 4:02 AM, Revar Desmera wrote:
>
> > Turns out that that is the same Modtronix daughterboard that is on the LCD I programmed for.
>
> > - Revar
>
>
> >> If you already have an LCD you can also get the I2C/SPI controller
> >> modules. this is "only" US$ 24....
>
> >> On Apr 17, 7:30 am, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> Cool. That LCD unit does use a different control scheme than the Modtronix unit, though. I'll work up a driver for it based on its spec sheet. I won't be able to test it, of course, but I can at least provide a starting point.
>
> >>> -Revar
>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
>
> >>> On Apr 16, 2010, at 5:38 PM, JohnWasser <john.was...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>>> I just ordered a 4x20 i2c LCD module fromhttp://web4robot.com/SerialLCD.html.
> >>>> Unlike microcontrollershop.com it only comes in one color scheme
> >>>> (white text on blue) but the price is right: $24.95 (vs. $39.95)
>
> >>>> On Apr 16, 7:00 pm, Ethan Dicks <ethan.di...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>> LCDs that have native i2c interfaces are _not_ inexpensive. I think
> >>>>> they start at $50 for small formats and go up over $100 for 4x20 or
> >>>>> larger. Displays using a bare HD44780 can be had for under $10, and
> >>>>> an i2c I/O expander is a couple of dollars from Digikey, but it takes
> >>>>> lots more firmware space to hold the code to drive them.
>
> >>>> --
> >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.> To post to this group, send email tomak...@googlegroups.com.> To unsubscribe from this group, send email tomakerbot+...@googlegroups.com.
> >>>> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
>
> >>> --
Revar Desmera
http://wiki.makerbot.com/revarlcd-assembly
- Revar
Jordan Miller
jordan
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
> To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com
> .
TeamTeamUSA
A couple things:
1. Do you have a picture of the cable connection to the motherboard?
2. Can you upload the laser files for the box to Thingiverse?
I'm working on mine this weekend and hope to have Curio128 RevarLCD
controlled by Monday.
Go!
=ml=
On May 1, 4:15 am, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've edited the Wiki page you mention below, and added a RevarLCD_assembly page as well with lots of photos.
>
> http://wiki.makerbot.com/revarlcd-assembly
>
> - Revar
>
> On Apr 28, 2010, at 12:22 AM, TeamTeamUSA wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Today I received the goodies from Modtronix: one for me, and one for
> > MakerBot [so they can officially support and test it]!
>
> > What are next steps?
>
> > I created a Wiki page to collect everything in one place:
> >http://wiki.makerbot.com/lcd-control-panels
>
> > Feel free to edit.
>
> > It looks like a future Cupcake version will contain an LCD with
> > similar control to Revar's solution [look at rev 15 in the page
> > history]:http://wiki.makerbot.com/generation-4
>
> > Jordan, the keys in the Modtronix keypad are easily replaceable; just
> > and Tony Buser's character libhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2054
TeamTeamUSA
Revar's additional build pix.
Go!
=ml=
Revar Desmera
- Revar
Revar Desmera
I need to tweak my box patterns for using the Modtronix keypad, as the one I built was using a different keypad I bought on Digikey. I'll get the files up as soon as I can get the right dimensions and make the mods to the design.
- Revar
alex e
by hand. I tried a rework gun and paste, but ended up doing all the
LEDs by hand. Not a single one was dark (imagine my surprise..)
On Apr 9, 9:03 pm, Chris Coleman <chris.d.cole...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I can support this by saying i did my makerbot heated build platform
> kit including all the LEDs and resistors by hand with a fine tipped
> soldering iron (and a good set of tweezers). you have to have a
> steady hand and be comfortable with soldering but it is very doable.
> Chris
>
> On Apr 6, 8:45 pm, Devlin <chillin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I've done SMT work just using a spool of regular lead-free flux-core
> > solder. You need a fairly fine soldering iron tip and a pair of
> > tweezers. Heat up one pad of the device on the PCB and get a bead of
> > solder there. Position the device you are about to solder on the the
> > PCB near where it will be soldered. Heat up that bead of solder with
> > your iron, and using your tweezers in your other hand, slide the
> > device so that the appropriate lead is in the solder, remove the iron
> > and let the solder cool. Apply a bead of solder to the rest of the
> > leads of the device. There should be more details about this process
> > from SparkFun, maybe in something to do with their SMT Simon kit. This
> > technique will not work for BGAs and other devices where the leads are
> > not accessible. Start inside working your way out, with the shortest
> > devices first, then work up to the larger devices to keep tall things
> > from getting in your way. Relaxation is the key to a steady hand. Have
> > fun!- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Revar Desmera
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2836
- Revar
On May 1, 2010, at 1:26 PM, TeamTeamUSA wrote:
TeamTeamUSA
file.
Unfortunately, I didn't get everything finished this weekend. Before I
update the firmware, can I use either RepG or the RevarLCD with it? Or
are they mutually exclusive?
Go!
=ml=
Revar Desmera
- Revar
TeamTeamUSA
I'm creating a printable enclosure for the LCD and keypad. The keypad
enclosure is here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2966
I'm still working on the LCD enclosure. They'll be connected via a
short printable tube in a T configuration.
I hope to have it ready for the MakerFaire. Revar, it's in your neck
o' the woods; are you going?
Go!
=ml=
On May 4, 1:03 am, Revar Desmera <revar...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You can use the RevarLCD firmware with RepG as if it were 1.8 standard firmware. The LCD can be used alongside RepG just fine.
>
> - Revar
>
>
> read more »
Revar Desmera
I'll probably visit the Maker Faire this year, but I'm not signed up as an exhibitor or anything, so I wouldn't have my fabber there. Honestly, for all that I live nearby, and have even helped a friend on a project that got into Make magazine... I have yet to actually go to a Maker Faire, so I don't really know what to expect.
- Revar
Cathal Garvey
Amazingness.
On May 8, 2010 11:05 a.m., "Revar Desmera" <reva...@gmail.com> wrote:
Awesome! Huh... So the corners are _supposed_ to look all jagged? Or is that to allow for mating the LCD box to it? The screwholes look half blocked, though.
I'll probably visit the Maker Faire this year, but I'm not signed up as an exhibitor or anything, so I wouldn't have my fabber there. Honestly, for all that I live nearby, and have even helped a friend on a project that got into Make magazine... I have yet to actually go to a Maker Faire, so I don't really know what to expect.
- Revar
On May 7, 2010, at 3:12 AM, TeamTeamUSA wrote: > Sweet! Glad to know they're compatible. > > I'...