We got this extruder finished and it is printing better than anything
we had tried with the stock extruder.
Here are pics:
http://yfrog.com/06n58j
http://yfrog.com/6w8b2j
http://yfrog.com/5sa0nj
What have I learned from this? Here is the summary (keep in mind this
was all done with ABS, natural and black, and it is still early):
1) The melt zone can be very short (
http://yfrog.com/20r3qj ). The
heated section in this design is really small. The entire heated brass
element is only 15mm or 0.6 inches long, and of that only 10mm or 0.4
inches is in contact with the ABS. There is NO REASON to have a long
brass tube heated and clogging.
2) Having the heated zone very small gives the default heating drive
circuit and nichrome element plenty of heating authority. The light
blinks happily as it is printing, where in the original design the
heater seemed to be full on all the time. It comes to temperature
quickly and controls nicely. There is NO REASON to have a huge metal
washer thermally coupled to the heated element.
3) Pressing the low COE brass OVER the higher COE plastic (Torlon
tested, I think there would be similar success with PTFE and PEEK)
seals and does not leak over temperature. Hotter = tighter if the low
COE material is on the outside. The original design puts the PTFE with
its high COE on the outside, and the hotter it gets the looser it gets
(and not in a good way like on spring break), plus the PTFE gets soft
at high temps.
4) To lower the active thermal mass, I used the Torlon "cap"
http://yfrog.com/0anruj to cover the heated brass element, and then
also used it to thermally insulate the steel washer from the brass. I
expected the steel washer to be fairly cool, but it was not nearly as
cool as I would have liked. This means that Torlon is more thermally
conductive (poorer insulator) than I had expected. I will need to re-
think insulating of the heated element.
5) I need to get a photo, but it appears that the melt zone is very
short. Certainly within 1/2 inch of where the brass is pressed onto
the Torlon. This means that the whole assembly should be able to be
reduced in size greatly. This prototype was made to fit in a stock
MakerBot, so the top Torlon is long. I think a much shorter length can
work, and it would reduce the "compression spring" bit between the
plug and the extruder pinch wheel. Shortening the length should make
the responsiveness between the motor commands and actual extrusion
more coupled.
6) I did not make a dedicated place for the thermistor. In the next
version I will extend the extruder so there is a hole to put the
thermistor into.
7) Not shown on the drawings, but I made several counter-bores on the
back side of the nozzle to keep the 0.45mm bore as short as possible.
The idea is to reduce the friction of pushing the plastic through a
long skinny hole. Trying to keep that "to the 4th" term small. (ref:
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/03/rheology.html )
8) I think the small flat area around the extrusion hole is too small.
It looks like skeinforge uses this area to smooth the top layers and
mine is so small it leaves grooves. (one of Nophead's designs
http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/11/no-compromise-extruder.html
has a very large flat area)
Coincidently, Richard is working on a very promising design:
http://www.makergear.com/blogs/frontpage/1636862-peek-ptfe-hybrid-insulator-v2
which looks very like it might work well.
Intentionally, Eberhard is working on the "Complextruder":
http://pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/05/15/complextruder/
Which also looks very promising.
My plans for the next revision:
1) Reduce complexity
2) Try out lower-cost materials PEEK or maybe even PTFE rather than
the super expensive Torlon
3) Reduce the size (this will require new or modified "dinos")
4) Accommodate the thermistor (which will likely increase the size,
meh)
5) Re-think the insulation around the heated element
The end goal is to have a design that is simple to manufacture and
assemble, has very few components and those are as low-cost as
possible, works every time, and never, ever sticks.
Now that I can actually create objects in MakerBot #1024 (aka
MiseryBot), it may be a while till I get back to trying to improve on
this design.
As usual, comments are welcome.