First print failed, steptruder jammed, why?

[Elbot]

Started my first print but it failed. The steptruder jammed. I used the default settings to successfully print the test items, the shark clothes pins. However, when I used the default settings to print a larger item, the filament spool holder, it jammed after printing 8 percent of the item.

Default settings;
Right Steptruder at 220 C
Left Steptruder at 220 C
Platform at 100 C

What did I do wrong?

Thanks,
Elbot.

[Jetty]

Most of the time filament jamming when printing at the correct
temperature is due to:

1. Material. PLA tends to jam more frequently.

2. Noozle too close to the platform (happens on the 1st layer
typically), and
because the filament has no where to go, the filament gets striped and
then there's
nothing for the pinch wheel to grip on higher levels. Solution, lower
platform.

3. Plunger in stepstruder is too loose to push the filament with
enough grip
against the pinch wheel. Solution, add a washer.

4. Filament dust around the pinch wheel, solution clean it.

Normally all these can be solved temporarily by pushing the filament
through whilst printing,
or cleaning the extruder.

However, if you literally can't get any filament through at all, like
happened to me
with the right stepstruder on delivery, i.e. the nozzle was completely
blocked.
I had a mixture of PLA and ABS stuck in the extruder chamber and
nozzle. It
needed disassembly, softening with acetone, picking out carefully with
a small
drill and needle. Acetone doesn't soften PLA, but because of it being
a mixture,
I could get enough of it out. But be very careful you don't gouge or
damage your
cylinder / nozzle with the drill. And don't use power tools or a hand
drill, I
just used a drill bit that was smaller than the hole and twisted it by
hand.

The colors in the nozzle matched the 2 colors on the test sample that
shipped, so
my theory is that the nozzles weren't cleared out completely when the
material was switched
during building / testing.

[PrettySmallThings]

You might try increasing your temp to 225 or 230, especially if you are using colored filament.  I find that while 220 is fine for prints in the 35mm/s, the replicator unaccelerated defaults of 45 or 55mm/s require a little temperature bump to prevent the filament from stripping out.  

If you've had a bunch of failed prints recently, which since you're just getting started probably is the case, it's also worth doing a little maintenance on your extruder as Jetty mentioned.  Brushing out some of the filament dust will help keep things running smoothly.  Makerbot has a video on their site that shows this procedure.  

[66tbird]

Set screw on the extruder may of backed off. Both of my steppers didn't have the flat on the shaft far enough in to allow the set screw to seat on it. A tap with a Dremel and  it was fixed.

[Adan Akerman]

Ditto that problem with mine. Also had the same as Jetty mentioned MBI's test piece filament remnants blocked initial filament loading. 

Both are frustrating, but easy fixes and very educational once you've gone through it.

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[Jetty]

> Ditto that problem with mine. Also had the same as Jetty mentioned MBI's
> test piece filament remnants blocked initial filament loading.
>
> Both are frustrating, but easy fixes and very educational once you've gone
> through it.

Also, in general on the ToM when I've been switching between PLA and
ABS
(but it'll apply to the Replicator too), I make sure when switching I
run a lot of material through the nozzle to clear it, typically I
extrude at 60mm/s for 3 mins.

When switching, I run the temperature low (i.e. at the extrusion temp
for PLA printing) so as to not overcook the PLA that's in the nozzle
or going into the nozzle.

I figure that's safest to clear the nozzle (just a theory), and I
haven't had any issues with nozzle blockage when using that approach.

If you get in a situation where PLA and ABS are mixed in a nozzle
and over heated or cooled, I'm not sure if some chemical reaction
happens to solidify the stuff. PLA is supposed to melt with caustic
soda, ABS is acetone.

[Elbot]

I think you're right. The black filament is curling during the set-up script while the white falls straight down. This curling means that the temperature is too low so that the uneven cooling caused the material to curl. Material falling straight down means that the material is still hot as it falls the 5 inches to the build platform during the first run experience startup script. I'll increase the temperatuere 5% as you suggested to 230 C and re-try the print. Thanks.

[Shawn]

If you go through the load filament routine so that the plastic is being
extruded into air, the exiting noodle *should* be going straight down.
When I see the noodle consistently curl up to one side, I know there is
a partial blockage. To fix this I take the nozzle off and throw it in
acetone overnight, periodically picking out the plastic bits. (btw, do
NOT do this if you are using PLA!) When the nozzle is replaced, the
issue goes away and the noodle extrudes straight.

But I think Elbot is right in the case of an initial curling, then
straightening out... adjust the temperatures a little.

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[Shawn]

Oh, if you DO get it to extrude without a consistent curling making
pig-tails... let it extrude for a while. Doing so helps clear out
previous plastic and other possible issues. How long to let it extrude
is kind of a guesstimate thing.

[Jay]

Steven,

Only had my 2X 10 days...but I'll ask the usual questions...

1. How's your first layers? Good adhesion? Clicking sounds?
2. Is it ONLY dual extrusion? Can you print with either head to completion?
3. I am assuming you're using the MBI supplied material that came with the printer?
4. Have you made any changes to the profile? Lot of guys have changed either the diameter or reduce the amount of plastic...believe it or not a lot of guys say that problems with it NOT printing can sometimes be because it's putting out too much plastic. (Did you print the two color pendant? Did that work correctly?)

Again, I'm a newb....just noticed that no one had responded to you yet...

Jay



On Friday, April 19, 2013 6:24:36 PM UTC-4, Steven F wrote:

I'm having a similar although not similar enough problem.  My prints are working about 85% completion and then my right stepstruder it will stop extruding. Up until that point everything seems to be working correctly. 

This happened at almost the exact same spot on 2 test prints of the cone (2 turns into the 5th stripe) and then again with a custom print attempt. 

My guesses are, the spool can't turn or perhaps the exstruder can't maintain temperature and the filament  s getting stripped. When I remove and reload the filament I can see grooves where it was being gripped and then it will work again for another 80% of the print. 

Any Suggestions? 

~Steven

[Steven F]

Thanks for the response Jay

So I've gotten it working reasonably reliably now. First thing was to get a dial gauge and get everything very level. 

This fixed a lot of my problems. I've identified that the print bed is warped at the edges so it made using feeler gauges to level unreliable. 

Secondly, the extruder drive motor was over heating. This heat would travel to the drive gear in the extruder and melt the filament  I'm not sure if it's because the motor is pressed up a against the aluminum heat block or if it's just internal motor heat. I've been printing without the hood and this has made a dramatic improvement. I also added 2 miniature copper heat sinks on the back of the extruder motor. I'm considering using some glass thermal insulation tape to create a buffer between the motor and the aluminum but I haven't tried that yet. 

Maybe this info will be helpful to someone in the future.

~Steven

[Dan Newman]

On 4 May 2013 , at 10:41 AM, Steven F wrote:

> Thanks for the response Jay
>
> So I've gotten it working reasonably reliably now. First thing was to get a
> dial gauge and get everything very level.
> This fixed a lot of my problems. I've identified that the print bed is
> warped at the edges so it made using feeler gauges to level unreliable.
>
> Secondly, the extruder drive motor was over heating. This heat would travel
> to the drive gear in the extruder and melt the filament I'm not sure if
> it's because the motor is pressed up a against the aluminum heat block or
> if it's just internal motor heat. I've been printing without the hood and
> this has made a dramatic improvement. I also added 2 miniature copper heat
> sinks on the back of the extruder motor. I'm considering using some glass
> thermal insulation tape to create a buffer between the motor and the
> aluminum but I haven't tried that yet.

A failing botstep driver for the extruder axis may be leading to the
stepper motor overheating. I'd contact MBI support.

Dan

[Steven F]

How would I know if it was actually over heating or just hot? What kind of temp's would be over heating? 

~Steven

[Dan Newman]

On 4 May 2013 , at 11:03 AM, Steven F wrote:

> How would I know if it was actually over heating or just hot? What kind of
> temp's would be over heating?

That's why I suggested contacting MBI support. If it's getting sufficiently hot
that you think it's softening the filament then (1) that's not normal, (2) they're
the experts, and (3) they'll know if this problem has arisen before and if it's
cause for alarm or not.

Dan

[Steven F]

I took your advice and contacted MBI support. We haven't resolved the issue but I figured I would provide more information from my testing. 

The temperatures are reaching 61C at the max on both the right and left extruder steppers. Single color prints seem to work reliably even with the high temperature as long as the filament is continuously extruded. The issues doesn't present itself until the filament is pressed against the hot roller gear for a few moments. Immediately after a print finishes and the extruders return home, pressing "load filament" will cause the filament to strip. It leaves a little rounded gouge in the filament when you remove it to take a look.