[MakerBot] MakerBot Heated Build Platform 2.0 - Relay Driven
8 views
Skip to first unread message
JohnA.
Apr 25, 2010, 10:10:14 PM4/25/10
to MakerBot Operators
After a few hours of messing with a completed HBP that kept
overpowering my MOSFET, we put the recommended heat sink from Digikey
on it. This increased our 'run' time from 3 seconds to about 5 or
6, but still wasn't a working solution.
Yesterday we'd tried to hardwire it directly into a few different
power options. Here are the temp results:
- 5v: board stabilized at 68 C after 10 mins
- 12v: board rocketed to 140 C, and didn't seem to stop, so we
unplugged it.
Saw the suggestions that it could be relay driven so we worked out how
to do it today.
Used a Hella relay (probably for a horn or fog lights?) pictured here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/4553229988/
Wired it up like so:
85 - to extruder controller "A-" port
86 - to 12v positive (constant)
87 - to red wire, HBP
30 - to 12v constant
Black wire from the HBP goes to ground -- not on the relay.
This setup has been tested and working for hours now. You can set
the temperature for the HBP to anything in the control panel (or in
your gcode) and it'll maintain the temperature by switching the
platform on and off. The LED lights on the platform go on and off
with the power, so you can tell when it's cycling.
Was able to print a really large item raftless on this without any
warping today 96mm x 85mm. Not bad at all for the second day of
printing.
Hope the relay details help someone.
John A.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
overpowering my MOSFET, we put the recommended heat sink from Digikey
on it. This increased our 'run' time from 3 seconds to about 5 or
6, but still wasn't a working solution.
Yesterday we'd tried to hardwire it directly into a few different
power options. Here are the temp results:
- 5v: board stabilized at 68 C after 10 mins
- 12v: board rocketed to 140 C, and didn't seem to stop, so we
unplugged it.
Saw the suggestions that it could be relay driven so we worked out how
to do it today.
Used a Hella relay (probably for a horn or fog lights?) pictured here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/4553229988/
Wired it up like so:
85 - to extruder controller "A-" port
86 - to 12v positive (constant)
87 - to red wire, HBP
30 - to 12v constant
Black wire from the HBP goes to ground -- not on the relay.
This setup has been tested and working for hours now. You can set
the temperature for the HBP to anything in the control panel (or in
your gcode) and it'll maintain the temperature by switching the
platform on and off. The LED lights on the platform go on and off
with the power, so you can tell when it's cycling.
Was able to print a really large item raftless on this without any
warping today 96mm x 85mm. Not bad at all for the second day of
printing.
Hope the relay details help someone.
John A.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MakerBot Operators" group.
To post to this group, send email to make...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to makerbot+u...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
Lyndondr
Apr 26, 2010, 7:13:43 AM4/26/10
to MakerBot Operators
That was my Digikey link but I'm surprised that it didn't work. I had
the same problem until I installed one similar The one I had was
19.5mm x 5.5mm x 5.5mm , the one in the link is 18.57mm x 6.35mm x
4.83mm. I put mine on bridged between the hbp mosfet and the barrel
heater mosfet with small spot of super glue. How did you attach yours.
Has any one else tried that heat sink and what were your results? To
be clear below are the links on for dikikey and one from the
manufacture. If this Heat sink is not useful to any one it should be
removed from the wiki and I'm sorry it didn't work for you.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=HS227-ND&x=0&y=0
http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/cgi-bin/stdisp.pl?Pnum=501200b00000g
the same problem until I installed one similar The one I had was
19.5mm x 5.5mm x 5.5mm , the one in the link is 18.57mm x 6.35mm x
4.83mm. I put mine on bridged between the hbp mosfet and the barrel
heater mosfet with small spot of super glue. How did you attach yours.
Has any one else tried that heat sink and what were your results? To
be clear below are the links on for dikikey and one from the
manufacture. If this Heat sink is not useful to any one it should be
removed from the wiki and I'm sorry it didn't work for you.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=HS227-ND&x=0&y=0
http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/cgi-bin/stdisp.pl?Pnum=501200b00000g
JohnA.
Apr 26, 2010, 9:35:27 AM4/26/10
to MakerBot Operators
Hey, it was worth the 70 cents to try it out, certainly. We didn't
span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
Now the MOSFET is just driving the coil in the relay, and the 12v
power comes from the power supply and things are cool and stable.
Even the initial warm-up doesn't take very long.
John A.
On Apr 26, 7:13 am, Lyndondr <lyndo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> That was my Digikey link but I'm surprised that it didn't work. I had
> the same problem until I installed one similar The one I had was
> 19.5mm x 5.5mm x 5.5mm , the one in the link is 18.57mm x 6.35mm x
> 4.83mm. I put mine on bridged between the hbp mosfet and the barrel
> heater mosfet with small spot of super glue. How did you attach yours.
> Has any one else tried that heat sink and what were your results? To
> be clear below are the links on for dikikey and one from the
> manufacture. If this Heat sink is not useful to any one it should be
> removed from the wiki and I'm sorry it didn't work for you.
>
> http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=CA&...
span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
Now the MOSFET is just driving the coil in the relay, and the 12v
power comes from the power supply and things are cool and stable.
Even the initial warm-up doesn't take very long.
John A.
On Apr 26, 7:13 am, Lyndondr <lyndo...@gmail.com> wrote:
> That was my Digikey link but I'm surprised that it didn't work. I had
> the same problem until I installed one similar The one I had was
> 19.5mm x 5.5mm x 5.5mm , the one in the link is 18.57mm x 6.35mm x
> 4.83mm. I put mine on bridged between the hbp mosfet and the barrel
> heater mosfet with small spot of super glue. How did you attach yours.
> Has any one else tried that heat sink and what were your results? To
> be clear below are the links on for dikikey and one from the
> manufacture. If this Heat sink is not useful to any one it should be
> removed from the wiki and I'm sorry it didn't work for you.
>
JohnWasser
Apr 26, 2010, 9:45:02 AM4/26/10
to MakerBot Operators
I use a 12V relay on my home-brew HBP and it works great. The relay
can switch 10A if I ever need it to.
My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
tick" of the relay to let me know it's switching.
On Apr 26, 9:35 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey, it was worth the 70 cents to try it out, certainly. We didn't
> span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
> that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
> it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
> one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
>
> Now the MOSFET is just driving the coil in the relay, and the 12v
> power comes from the power supply and things are cool and stable.
> Even the initial warm-up doesn't take very long.
>
> John A.
can switch 10A if I ever need it to.
My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
tick" of the relay to let me know it's switching.
On Apr 26, 9:35 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey, it was worth the 70 cents to try it out, certainly. We didn't
> span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
> that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
> it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
> one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
>
> Now the MOSFET is just driving the coil in the relay, and the 12v
> power comes from the power supply and things are cool and stable.
> Even the initial warm-up doesn't take very long.
>
> John A.
John
May 16, 2010, 7:43:19 PM5/16/10
to MakerBot Operators
did you need a diode to protect the board from the relay, or are you
just running the relay?
Cheers,
John
On Apr 26, 11:45 pm, JohnWasser <john.was...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I use a 12Vrelayon my home-brew HBP and it works great. Therelay
just running the relay?
Cheers,
John
On Apr 26, 11:45 pm, JohnWasser <john.was...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I use a 12Vrelayon my home-brew HBP and it works great. Therelay
> can switch 10A if I ever need it to.
>
> My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
> tick" of therelayto let me know it's switching.
>
> My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
>
> On Apr 26, 9:35 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hey, it was worth the 70 cents to try it out, certainly. We didn't
> > span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
> > that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
> > it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
> > one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
>
> > Now the MOSFET is just driving the coil in therelay, and the 12v
> On Apr 26, 9:35 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hey, it was worth the 70 cents to try it out, certainly. We didn't
> > span the other MOSFET with it. After seeing (and feeling!) how hot
> > that thing was getting without the sink on it, it seemed like even if
> > it worked, it was going to be borderline on my setup. It felt like
> > one day in a hot room it just wouldn't work.
>
JohnA.
May 16, 2010, 8:05:55 PM5/16/10
to MakerBot Operators
I didn't use a diode in mine. It's probably got 15-18 hours of
prints on it since it was installed.
Should I have? :)
John A.
prints on it since it was installed.
Should I have? :)
John A.
John
May 16, 2010, 9:01:14 PM5/16/10
to MakerBot Operators
I'm not sure. I know that relays contain a small electromagnet, and
that when you cut the power to an electromagnet, it will back feed
some power backwards through the circuit. I've heard that it can be
enough to blow some circuits, and I really don't want to kill my
extruder board. :)
Cheers,
John
On May 17, 10:05 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I didn't use a diode in mine. It's probably got 15-18 hours of
> prints on it since it was installed.
>
> Should I have? :)
>
> John A.
>
> On May 16, 7:43 pm, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > did you need a diode to protect the board from therelay, or are you
that when you cut the power to an electromagnet, it will back feed
some power backwards through the circuit. I've heard that it can be
enough to blow some circuits, and I really don't want to kill my
extruder board. :)
Cheers,
John
On May 17, 10:05 am, "JohnA." <john.abe...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I didn't use a diode in mine. It's probably got 15-18 hours of
> prints on it since it was installed.
>
> Should I have? :)
>
> John A.
>
> On May 16, 7:43 pm, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
John
May 16, 2010, 9:06:09 PM5/16/10
to MakerBot Operators
have a look at "Quenching Diodes" on here http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
to see why I'm worried. Apparently the back voltage can get
substantial. I think I might pick one up anyway, they're cheaper than
a new board.
to see why I'm worried. Apparently the back voltage can get
substantial. I think I might pick one up anyway, they're cheaper than
a new board.
> I didn't use a diode in mine. It's probably got 15-18 hours of
> prints on it since it was installed.
>
> Should I have? :)
>
> John A.
>
> On May 16, 7:43 pm, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > did you need a diode to protect the board from therelay, or are you
> prints on it since it was installed.
>
> Should I have? :)
>
> John A.
>
> On May 16, 7:43 pm, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
Fido
May 17, 2010, 8:05:39 AM5/17/10
to MakerBot Operators
Thanks for mentioning this.
Haven't had any problems yet but better safe than sorry.
I'll add that diode immediately. :)
Janne
On 17 touko, 04:06, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
> have a look at "Quenching Diodes" on herehttp://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
> For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.- Piilota siteerattu teksti -
>
> - Näytä siteerattu teksti -
Haven't had any problems yet but better safe than sorry.
I'll add that diode immediately. :)
Janne
On 17 touko, 04:06, John <gratton.j...@gmail.com> wrote:
> have a look at "Quenching Diodes" on herehttp://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
>
> - Näytä siteerattu teksti -
JohnWasser
May 17, 2010, 10:45:59 AM5/17/10
to MakerBot Operators
I just checked the specs of the NIF5003N FET and it includes a diode
to protect against back-EMF. This should protect it from the voltage
spike from the relay coil.
to protect against back-EMF. This should protect it from the voltage
spike from the relay coil.
> did you need a diode to protect the board from the relay, or are you
> just running the relay?
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Apr 26, 11:45 pm, JohnWasser <john.was...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I use a 12V relay on my home-brew HBP and it works great. The relay
> just running the relay?
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Apr 26, 11:45 pm, JohnWasser <john.was...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > can switch 10A if I ever need it to.
>
> > My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
> > tick" of the relay to let me know it's switching.
>
> > My HBP doesn't have lights but I can hear the faint "tick... tick,
John
May 18, 2010, 5:47:40 AM5/18/10
to MakerBot Operators
Thank you, I'll stop worrying in this case.
Cheers,
John
Cheers,
John
John
May 19, 2010, 8:44:05 AM5/19/10
to MakerBot Operators
Ok, the HBP is up and running in exactly the configuration described
above. Its working a treat. Next I need to calibrate my thermistors.
Thanks for your help.
above. Its working a treat. Next I need to calibrate my thermistors.
Thanks for your help.
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages