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On Apr 3, 3:22 pm, Jason Evanko <samidge...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I had same issue with mine, which turned out to be a faulty on/off
> switch. So I just put a piece of extra wire in- between the metal
> plate and contact on the inside of the switch, on the "on" side which
> seemed to work until I could replace it. I don't know if you checked
> this but it's worth a shot if you didn't.
> Hope this helps
> -Jason
>
If you don't want to re-solder every pin, examine each solder
connection under magnification and look for any that are not shiny or
where the solder is cracked or where the solder does not merge
seamlessly with the pin and circuit trace.
If all look good, examine the other power components on the board.
Download the schematic and copper patterns to see what is connected
where.
ps- I realize I am just that unlucky 1% (or whatever the fail rate
is), so I shouldn't complain so much, but thus far, my makerbot
experience has been nothing but frustration. i'll quit my bitching
now.
-Jason
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Motherboard_1.2
On Apr 4, 1:21 pm, Joe Allen <flatiron...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, as I said above, the solder joints look pretty solid (http://www.flickr.com/photos/flatironjoe/4490475314/), and they all test fine
1. Is the USB2TTL cable plugged in the right way around? (just checking! :-)
2. Is this the MakerBot-supplied USB2TTL or some other converter?
3. Without the USB end plugged into your computer (aka unpowered), does plugging the serial end into the motherboard also make it shut down? (it shouldn't)
4. How does the extruder board behave if you plug the USB2TTL cable into its serial port?
Just in case, take some photos of the serial port area of the motherboard. Might be something else strange/shorted in that part of the board.
Andrew.
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--
"The future is already here. It's just not very evenly distributed" -- William Gibson
I added some shots (on flikr) of the serial end on the board. Looks
pretty clean to me, but what do I know?
Thanks for sharing some brainpower.
> > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
Nothing jumps out at me as being wrong in the connector area: http://www.flickr.com/photos/flatironjoe/4491687455/
A longer shot: Pin 4 of the USB2TTL is RXD, which is connected to pin 9 of the ATMEGA644A, which is adjacent to the crystal pin 8 (XTAL2).
With your multimeter and the motherboard completely disconnected, do you see/measure any shorts between any USB2TTL connector pins and the crystal's pins? Access the crystal leads from the bottom of the board with one probe and rake the USB2TTL with the other.
I don't have a board in front of me to confirm this (anyone else?), but I wouldn't expect to see any connections. If you do there could be a solder bridge between those pins on the ATMEGA644A.
Andrew.
> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/makerbot?hl=en.
Re-soldering the power connector is STILL your best bet.
I don't know much about PCB design, so I'm a little confused by your
comment about the vias. Why would some get filled and others not if
the solder doesn't matter? It may have nothing to do with my current
issue, but you made me curious.
Anybody got any other ideas for things to check?
MakerBot says they are also surprised, and they are sending me a new
motherboard. Assuming that one is functional, I'll do a visual
comparison of the two before I send this one back for them to analyze
and return to the manufacturer. I'm mostly interested in having a
functioning Cupcake, but I am still very eager to figure out what the
heck is going on with this bad mother(board).
> > > Me:http://clothbot.com/wiki/- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Hurray, my Cupcake lives! Now if only I can get it to start extruding
properly... :-)
> > > > Me:http://clothbot.com/wiki/-Hide quoted text -