Re: Honeysuckle is in full bloom
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H. Adam Steinberg
May 24, 2013, 1:24:08 PM5/24/13
to mad...@googlegroups.com
The Honeysuckle in Lodi is in full bloom. It was talked about a week or so as a good source of nectar or pollen for bees.
I personally have about 3-5 acres of it, and it covers all of the surrounding wooded hillsides. It is a nasty invasive WEED… so please do not plant this for your bees.
On May 24, 2013, at 12:01 PM, mad...@googlegroups.com wrote:
Mary Celley/ The BeeCharmer <bech...@gmail.com> May 23 06:00PM -0700
Too early, unless you need room for queen to lay. Dandelions are done,
apple blossoms are done, no clover yet. Black Locust is not ready. Rule of
thumb is 10 days after you spot yellow sweet clover. Bees will actually
start robbing any honey supers left unattended this week looking for food.
The BeeCharmer
H. Adam Steinberg
May 24, 2013, 1:31:04 PM5/24/13
to mad...@googlegroups.com
So why not just take a regular Lang, add the Warré top (quilt and roof), and modify the lang frames to work like the Warré frames (top bar)? it certainly would be a simple thing to do...
On May 24, 2013, at 12:01 PM, mad...@googlegroups.com wrote:
James <james...@hotmail.com> May 23 09:11PM -0700
I've built two and I like them and the bees seem to do well in them, the
next hives I build will also be Warre. They are a little different than
working with Langs.
No frames, just topbars, you could make your own frames with foundation if
you want, but it isn't necessary.
I suggest building a stand into the ground and strap the hive to the stand.
The hives can get pretty tall and top heavy.
You add boxes to the bottom.
The brood are raised in the bottom boxes, and your honey comes top boxes
with oldest comb which has had brood in it.
To harvest honey, crushing and straining the comb works well.
I've found the bees tend to attach the comb to the walls, so if you want to
observe put windows in your boxes.
Because this hive is non-Lang dimensions, it is not easy to install a nunc
(frames don't fit). Packages or swarms are no problem.
Fairly easy to build with some woodworking skills. You can find plans
here: http://warre.biobees.com/plans.htm I think you can also buy
pre-made.
jeanne hansen
May 24, 2013, 2:38:18 PM5/24/13
to mad...@googlegroups.com
I like these ideas so much that I am going to mention Warre hives to beginners who ask me about top bar hives.
Thanks!
Jeanne Hansen
824 Jacobson Ave
Madison, WI 53714
From: H. Adam Steinberg <h.adam.s...@gmail.com>
To: mad...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 12:31 PM
Subject: [madbees] Re: Warre Hives
So why not just take a regular Lang, add the Warré top (quilt and roof), and modify the lang frames to work like the Warré frames (top bar)? it certainly would be a simple thing to do...
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James
May 24, 2013, 4:31:03 PM5/24/13
to madbees
Adam,
There is nothing to stop you from doing that and I'm sure it would
work fine. If you already have the langs, tweaking to the Warre style
is easy. If you don't have hives or wanted to build, that is where
Warre design comes in.
The main reason Abbe Warre gave to use this design is to make the hive
simple, more "natural" and healthy for the bees. Not that Langs are
unhealthy or any more natural, and I'm not looking to start a fight
between hive designs. Langs have been the big winner for commercial
beekeepers forever, so that fight is over.
The Abbe Warre came up with the design, based it off his experience
and wrote a book "Beekeeping for All" where he explaining his thinking
and rational (easy read, translated to English);
http://thebeespace.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/beekeeping_for_all.pdf
Luckly, as many people have noted bees aren't known for reading the
bee books, so tweeking any design is fair game.
If you decide to do it, let us know how it works.
Best regards,
James
On May 24, 12:31 pm, "H. Adam Steinberg" <h.adam.steinb...@gmail.com>
wrote:
There is nothing to stop you from doing that and I'm sure it would
work fine. If you already have the langs, tweaking to the Warre style
is easy. If you don't have hives or wanted to build, that is where
Warre design comes in.
The main reason Abbe Warre gave to use this design is to make the hive
simple, more "natural" and healthy for the bees. Not that Langs are
unhealthy or any more natural, and I'm not looking to start a fight
between hive designs. Langs have been the big winner for commercial
beekeepers forever, so that fight is over.
The Abbe Warre came up with the design, based it off his experience
and wrote a book "Beekeeping for All" where he explaining his thinking
and rational (easy read, translated to English);
http://thebeespace.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/beekeeping_for_all.pdf
Luckly, as many people have noted bees aren't known for reading the
bee books, so tweeking any design is fair game.
If you decide to do it, let us know how it works.
Best regards,
James
On May 24, 12:31 pm, "H. Adam Steinberg" <h.adam.steinb...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> So why not just take a regular Lang, add the Warré top (quilt and roof), and modify the lang frames to work like the Warré frames (top bar)? it certainly would be a simple thing to do...
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 12:01 PM, mad...@googlegroups.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Warre Hives
> > James <james_tr...@hotmail.com> May 23 09:11PM -0700
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 12:01 PM, mad...@googlegroups.com wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Warre Hives
>
> > I've built two and I like them and the bees seem to do well in them, the
> > next hives I build will also be Warre. They are a little different than
> > working with Langs.
>
> > No frames, just topbars, you could make your own frames with foundation if
> > you want, but it isn't necessary.
> > I suggest building a stand into the ground and strap the hive to the stand.
> > The hives can get pretty tall and top heavy.
> > You add boxes to the bottom.
> > The brood are raised in the bottom boxes, and your honey comes top boxes
> > with oldest comb which has had brood in it.
> > To harvest honey, crushing and straining the comb works well.
> > I've found the bees tend to attach the comb to the walls, so if you want to
> > observe put windows in your boxes.
> > Because this hive is non-Lang dimensions, it is not easy to install a nunc
> > (frames don't fit). Packages or swarms are no problem.
>
> > Fairly easy to build with some woodworking skills. You can find plans
> > here:http://warre.biobees.com/plans.htmI think you can also buy
> > I've built two and I like them and the bees seem to do well in them, the
> > next hives I build will also be Warre. They are a little different than
> > working with Langs.
>
> > No frames, just topbars, you could make your own frames with foundation if
> > you want, but it isn't necessary.
> > I suggest building a stand into the ground and strap the hive to the stand.
> > The hives can get pretty tall and top heavy.
> > You add boxes to the bottom.
> > The brood are raised in the bottom boxes, and your honey comes top boxes
> > with oldest comb which has had brood in it.
> > To harvest honey, crushing and straining the comb works well.
> > I've found the bees tend to attach the comb to the walls, so if you want to
> > observe put windows in your boxes.
> > Because this hive is non-Lang dimensions, it is not easy to install a nunc
> > (frames don't fit). Packages or swarms are no problem.
>
> > Fairly easy to build with some woodworking skills. You can find plans
Mary Celley/ The BeeCharmer
May 24, 2013, 9:07:02 PM5/24/13
to mad...@googlegroups.com
Bumble bees work Honeysuckle much better than honeybees. The proboscis on honeybee is not long enough to work the flower, in desperation they can make attempts. Might I add with not much success. I would never plant this invasive species. The BeeCharmer
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