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From: Brad Luyster <bradluys...@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 15:13:54 -0400
Message-ID: <CAOOut9G7D07B_jCpdZHmXtf6snAL4wL-oF25-YYg0RTecep...@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: {LVL1} Replicator 3d Printer Issue, Solution, and Replicator
needs a proper name!
To: lvl1@googlegroups.com
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=e89a8f23433b1b2fce04c492a7ba
--e89a8f23433b1b2fce04c492a7ba
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Weird, I had enabled accelerated mode a few days ago, and it appeared to
persist through a power cycle.
On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 3:07 PM, Jonathan Clark <jdc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> New information regarding Replicator belt slippage:
>
> So a couple of prints after fixing the set screw issue we started seeing
> the same issue as before but this time on the z-axis. We checked all the
> set screws and they all appeared to be fine. It turns out that the
> Replicator has something called "Accelerated Mode" which allows the head to
> travel much quicker then in standard mode. You can specify very high
> settings when generating the GCode that will cause the model to print in
> this mode. Here's the catch... It appears that setting the values this
> high causes the printer to jerk rather harshly when the head changes
> direction at the higher speeds. If you want to use the Accelerated Mode
> settings you need to enable accelerated mode on the printer itself using
> the printers built in utilities options. I believe this makes the printer
> head ramp up and down slightly as opposed to an instant direction change.
> After enabling the Accelerated mode on the printer the head has stopped
> jerking and the print is coming out great.
>
> On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 1:27 PM, Brian Wagner <br...@tegrasys.com> wrote:
>
>> I use locktite on the setscrews on the cnc machine downstairs and have
>> not had any problems breaking them loose if needed. I think there may be
>> some locktite in the purple bin under the cnc (in a coffee can). Or you
>> could just torque down on the set screw....
>>
>> b
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 11:49 AM, Sean McPherson <sean...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> That was more tongue in cheek than serious, but since there are various
>>> loctites for differentneeds, I'll mention that loctite blue (242 for dry
>>> application, 243 for oily) is designed for non-heat-required-removal and is
>>> for use on metal bits that need to come apart at times. Red (various #s),
>>> however, definitely requires some serious heatage or breakage to remove :)
>>> And green (various #s) is for bushings/bearings and such, no is right out.
>>> 290 Green is the wicking threadlocker for use on screws once they're set,
>>> but you ought to be sure it's where you want it as it's igher strength than
>>> blue. And finally, on small surface area and almost specifically tiny/set
>>> screws, purple (222) has a lower break strength (~1/2) than blue for
>>> easier removal w/o stripping the head off a tiny screw surface.
>>> Does this mean I'm a loctite nerd? *sigh*
>>>
>>> Sean
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 11:39 AM, John Coder <code...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I suggest double set screw rather than loctite. That way you don't have
>>>> to heat the necessary object to break the bond. Also on small screws
>>>> loctite has a way of getting in the cup and if you want to hear some choice
>>>> cuss words directed at the person who used loctite on small set screws just
>>>> hang around when they have to be removed for some reason ( Spoken from
>>>> experience ). I did unmercifully rail against the manager for using loctite
>>>> when I had to spend an hour or 2 cleaning the cup so I could even begin to
>>>> remove it. I ended up just manufacturing a new part because of it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 11, 2012 11:31:21 AM UTC-4, SeanMcP wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Sounds like some Loctite needs to be on the Birthday wish list ;)
>>>>>
>>>>> Sean
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 11:28 AM, Jonathan Clark <jdc...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm putting this in the group thread just to have a record of the
>>>>>> issue until we have a wiki page created to document it there.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Last night the Replicator starting printing horribly, the prints seem
>>>>>> to drift badly to the right with each layer. After ruling out GCode
>>>>>> settings and bad stl files, we realized it was due to the set screw on the
>>>>>> gear for the x-axis. The screw had apparently come loose allowing the belt
>>>>>> to slip slightly with any tension or hard jerks of the x-axis. Re-aligning
>>>>>> the set screw with the flat portion of the motor-shaft and re-tightening
>>>>>> has appeared to fix the problem and all is well. You can tell when this has
>>>>>> happened if when the head moves away from it's home position it appears to
>>>>>> sit in the corner for a few seconds before it actually starts moving back
>>>>>> to the platform.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As far as naming the Replicator, and creating the Wiki page is
>>>>>> concerned. I had made the suggestion that we let Cindy give the replicator
>>>>>> it's name for her involvement in the process that lead to getting the
>>>>>> printer. So... unless there's any objections... Cindy, do the honors, and
>>>>>> pick a name for the replicator.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Once we have a name picked out I'll make the wiki page and add these
>>>>>> details to it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>
>
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Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Weird, I had enabled accelerated mode a few days ago, and it appeared to pe=
rsist through a power cycle.<div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Jul=
11, 2012 at 3:07 PM, Jonathan Clark <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailt=
o:jdc...@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">jdc...@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote=
:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">New information regarding Replicator belt sl=
ippage:<div><br><div>So a couple of prints after fixing the set screw issue=
we started seeing the same issue as before but this time on the z-axis. We=
checked all the set screws and they all appeared to be fine. =A0It turns o=
ut that the Replicator has something called "Accelerated Mode" wh=
ich allows the head to travel much quicker then in standard mode. =A0You ca=
n specify very high settings when generating the GCode that will cause the =
model to print in this mode. =A0Here's the catch... It appears that set=
ting the values this high causes the printer to jerk rather harshly when th=
e head changes direction at the higher speeds. If you want to use the Accel=
erated Mode settings you need to enable accelerated mode on the printer its=
elf using the printers built in utilities options. =A0I believe this makes =
the printer head =A0ramp up and down slightly as opposed to an instant dire=
ction change. =A0After enabling the Accelerated mode on the printer the hea=
d has stopped jerking and the print is coming out great.</div>
<div><div class=3D"h5">
<div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 1:27 PM, Brian =
Wagner <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:br...@tegrasys.com" target=
=3D"_blank">br...@tegrasys.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex">
I use locktite on the setscrews on the cnc machine downstairs and have not =
had any problems breaking them loose if needed.=A0 I think there may be som=
e locktite in the purple bin under the cnc (in a coffee can).=A0 Or you cou=
ld just torque down on the set screw....<span><font color=3D"#888888"><br>
<br>b</font></span><div><div><br><br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed,=
Jul 11, 2012 at 11:49 AM, Sean McPherson <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"=
mailto:sean...@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">sean...@gmail.com</a>></span=
> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div>That was more tongue in cheek than serious, but since there are variou=
s loctites for differentneeds, I'll mention that loctite blue (242 for =
dry application, 243 for oily) is designed for non-heat-required-removal an=
d is for use on metal bits that need to come apart at times. Red (various #=
s), however, definitely requires some serious heatage or breakage to remove=
:) And green (various #s) is for bushings/bearings and such, no is right o=
ut. 290 Green is the wicking threadlocker for use on screws once they'r=
e set, but you ought to be sure it's where you want it as it's ighe=
r strength than blue. And finally, on small surface area and almost specifi=
cally=A0tiny/set screws, purple (222) has a lower break strength (~1/2) =A0=
than blue for easier removal w/o stripping the head off a tiny screw surfac=
e. <br>
</div>
<div>Does this mean I'm a loctite nerd? *sigh*</div><span><font color=
=3D"#888888">
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Sean</div></font></span><div><div>
<div><br>=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 11:39 AM, John Coder <sp=
an dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:code...@yahoo.com" target=3D"_blank">c=
ode...@yahoo.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PA=
DDING-LEFT:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">I suggest double set screw rather tha=
n loctite. That way you don't have to heat the necessary object to brea=
k the bond. Also on small screws loctite has a way of getting in the cup an=
d if you want to hear some choice cuss words directed at the person who use=
d loctite on small set screws just hang around when they have to be removed=
for some reason ( Spoken from experience ). I did unmercifully rail agains=
t the manager for using loctite when I had to spend an hour or 2 cleaning t=
he cup so I could even begin to remove it. I ended up just manufacturing a =
new part because of it.=20
<div>
<div><br><br>On Wednesday, July 11, 2012 11:31:21 AM UTC-4, SeanMcP wrote:=
=20
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PA=
DDING-LEFT:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div>Sounds like some Loctite needs to be on the Birthday wish list ;)</div=
>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Sean<br><br></div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Jul 11, 2012 at 11:28 AM, Jonathan Clark=
<span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:jdc...@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank=
">jdc...@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PA=
DDING-LEFT:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">I'm putting this in the group thr=
ead just to have a record of the issue until we have a wiki page created to=
document it there.=A0=20
<div><br></div>
<div>Last night the Replicator starting printing horribly, the prints seem =
to drift badly to the right with each layer. =A0After ruling out GCode sett=
ings and bad stl files, we realized it was due to the set screw on the gear=
for the x-axis. =A0The screw had apparently come loose allowing the belt t=
o slip slightly with any tension or hard jerks of the x-axis. =A0Re-alignin=
g the set screw with the flat portion of the motor-shaft and re-tightening =
has appeared to fix the problem and all is well. You can tell when this has=
happened if when the head moves away from it's home position it appear=
s to sit in the corner for a few seconds before it actually starts moving b=
ack to the platform.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>As far as naming the Replicator, and creating the Wiki page is concern=
ed. =A0I had made the suggestion that we let Cindy give the replicator it&#=
39;s name for her involvement in the process that lead to getting the print=
er. So... unless there's any objections... Cindy, do the honors, and pi=
ck a name for the replicator. =A0</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Once we have a name picked out I'll make the wiki page and add the=
se details to it. =A0</div></blockquote></div><br></blockquote></div></div>=
</blockquote></div><br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br>
</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div></div>
</blockquote></div><br></div>
--e89a8f23433b1b2fce04c492a7ba--
Message from discussion {LVL1} Replicator 3d Printer Issue, Solution, and Replicator needs a proper name!
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