Space Hunt: E Kentucky (Hope Mills) aggregated 1600sq ft
Christopher Cprek
Property manager for Hope Mills. I've met the guy when viewing the space.
What:
Converted warehouse basement studios at Hope Mills. Units are $125 per
10.5x39ft areas, demarcated by structural posts. Expect 4 units
combined into a single space for ~1600 sq ft. for $500.
Where:
954 E. Kentucky. Next to the traintracks and next to the intersection
of Swan St. and Kentucky.
When:
Units are available now, but would require build-out of walls as well
as running new electrical conduit.
Why:
I see this space as kind of a hybrid between the Mellwood and Skull
Alley spaces we've looked at so far. Upstairs are offices for things
like Video Production and computer forensics. Downstairs is a raw
warehouse basement space that has been divided up into artists
studios. Current potential neighbors are largely glass blowers,
carpenters, rickshaw operators and looks like some machinists.
Spaces are demarcated by structural posts, all about 10.5x39 feet on
one side without regular windows and 10.5x26 feet on the other with
regular windows. I'm just making the assumption that we'd prefer more
space over sunlight based on the make-up of our group. ;-) Some may
prefer hiding from the evil day star.
The floor plan is completely open, and it would be up to us to wall in
our area. Some tenants have just walled up their areas with plywood
sheet. Other studios are completely open. There's lots of stereo and
machine tool sounds.
All the junk you see in the video would just be moved out of the area.
Open areas are just being used for miscellaneous storage.
Two things would delay immediate occupancy. Besides walling in the
space, the building would need to put in a new transformer for us. I
saw the electrical area where it comes in from the mains. The current
tenants have maxed out their 480 transformer, so the building is going
to have to put in something regardless of who the next tenants are.
Ideally we could make recommendations on our own separate transformer
and have the conduit run back to our area.
Access is 24x7. Keys are needed to access the building and get into
the basement area. I checked though and it's no problem to provide
keys for all in our member count. I'm not worried about securing our
area because we'd do our own build out in addition to the other entry
points. Just the opposite though, I don't want any of our members or
guests of members messing with the open studio spaces, so that should
be discussed.
There's no A/C but the basement area is cool in the summer. A
dehumidifier was recommended. There's no heat either so we'd need some
space heater options to keep from freezing out in the winter.
Men and women's restrooms are maintained by the building upstairs.
I don't believe electric is included because we'd basically get our
own separate transformer off of the mains, but I will double check on
that if there's interest.
The property manager who showed me the space was very welcoming to
what we're trying to do as an organization. He said something along
the lines of "I'm not going to pretend like I understand what you're
doing, but I like the idea of people in America making things again."
I think he's someone we can work with.
In all, this is a grimier version of Mellwood that's much cheaper for
more space.
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhOxURwrw5Q
/Chris
CTotCW LVL1
Todd Welsh
represents a great compromise on neighborhood, size and cost. I like
the temperature benifits of being in a basement. It is much easier to
heat a place than cool it. Also, with it being underground the word
"lair" comes to mind. Put me down as interested.
Todd W.
Brian
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=954+E.+Kentucky+louisville&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=954+E+Kentucky+St,+Louisville,+Jefferson,+Kentucky+40204&gl=us&ei=H4LHS_G3NY-w9gS83pTkCg&ved=0CAcQ8gEwAA&ll=38.236242,-85.737146&spn=0.001214,0.00284&z=19&layer=c&cbll=38.236157,-85.737161&panoid=g_Y0AtLsxfIMh0ivR6vBjA&cbp=12,195.04,,0,0.58
Looks nice. Good find! I like having neighbors.
b
Christopher Cprek
I forgot to mention there is a loading door directly connected to a
ramp into the basement.
Also forgot to ask about internet, but I will follow up on that.
He was open to showing the space to anyone else in the group. If
anyone wants to volunteer as a point person to figure out some
consensus times for a group viewing, I will pass along his contact
info.
Remember, we will have to build walls!
/Chris
CTotCW LVL1
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "LVL1 - Louisville's MakerSpace" group.
> To post to this group, send email to lv...@googlegroups.com
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> lvl1+uns...@googlegroups.com
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1?hl=en
> For more info about LVL1 visit www.lvl1.org
>
> To unsubscribe, reply using "remove me" as the subject.
>
Todd Welsh
built walls. I looked at what he had to get an estimate of what kind
of cost we are talking about for walls.
Assuming:
Walls on 3 sides 39 + 39 + 40 feet.
Studs every 24 inches (That is what this guy had and he was supposed
to be a carpenter. plus 24 is half of a 4x8 board)
An extra stud at each corner and at each side of the door.
2x4 along the top and bottom. (39 + 39 + 40) x 2
Using our own / borrowed tools
Home Depot Prices:
96 inch 2x4 studs - $2.76
4x8 foot OSB board - $11.97 1/4" Plywood is a little cheaper. I don't
know enough to choose one over the other.
Numbers:
Vertical studs: 60
Corners: 4
Door: 3
Top + Bottom: 30
Total 2x4 = 97
OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Walls: 30
Total OSB: 30
Costs:
2X4 97 x $2.76 = 267.72
OSB 30 x $12.00 = 359.11
SubTotal: $626.82
Tax: $37.61
Total: $664.42
That does not include nails, calk, glue, plastic, etc. However, I'm
guessing the wood will be the biggest investment. Maybe allow another
$100 for that? Then, round up to $800?
That is just the walls. Then we have to think about wiring and
possibly water. I'll let Brian comment on the wiring.
Also, we still have to build workbenches and shelving as needed but we
would have to do that to any space. I'm just trying to even out the
cost between spaces.
Todd Welsh
Christopher Cprek
/Chris
CTotCW LVL1
Jeff Johnson
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brad Luyster <bradl...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Apr 25, 2010 9:43 PM
>To: LVL1 - Louisville's Hackerspace <lv...@googlegroups.com>
>Subject: Re: {LVL1} Re: Space Hunt: E Kentucky (Hope Mills) aggregated 1600sq ft
>
>It would be very neat to cover a fair percentage of wall space with
>tileboard to use as whiteboard. It's ~$10 for a 4'x8' sheet, and acts
>just like whiteboard.
>
>On Apr 25, 7:45 pm, Jeff Johnson <astutesoluti...@earthlink.net>
>wrote:
>> Drywall would be cheaper wall material, but you'd need to do 16 inch centers and mud/tape would be a pain. It would also be less noisy than plywood.
>>
>> On the plus side for plywood, you can use a framing nailer to put the material up unless you wanted to be able to take the wall down. That assumes you don't go with the tongue and groove plywood.
>>
>> I have a framing nailer, compressor and chopsaw that we can use. You wouldn't think a framing nailer would be good for the plywood, but I just helped my brother in law put up his hardyboard siding (on house) with it. It took some adjusting, but it worked great.
>>
>> Is it concrete floor? If so, we'll need to drill holes with a hammerdrill, or use one of the remington nailers.
na
Ironicly, as my spellchecker has just reminded me, after 15 years I
still can't spell "electrician" properly.
Creighton
Jeff Johnson
Of course to paint it on plywood you would want to run some drywall mud over it first to fill in the imperfections (I do this with MDF all the time) and hit it with a wet sponge or screen to smooth it out. Or for you car buffs, bondo.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brad Luyster <bradl...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Apr 25, 2010 9:43 PM
>To: LVL1 - Louisville's Hackerspace <lv...@googlegroups.com>
>Subject: Re: {LVL1} Re: Space Hunt: E Kentucky (Hope Mills) aggregated 1600sq ft
>
>It would be very neat to cover a fair percentage of wall space with
>tileboard to use as whiteboard. It's ~$10 for a 4'x8' sheet, and acts
>just like whiteboard.
>
>On Apr 25, 7:45 pm, Jeff Johnson <astutesoluti...@earthlink.net>
>wrote:
>> Drywall would be cheaper wall material, but you'd need to do 16 inch centers and mud/tape would be a pain. It would also be less noisy than plywood.
>>
>> On the plus side for plywood, you can use a framing nailer to put the material up unless you wanted to be able to take the wall down. That assumes you don't go with the tongue and groove plywood.
>>
>> I have a framing nailer, compressor and chopsaw that we can use. You wouldn't think a framing nailer would be good for the plywood, but I just helped my brother in law put up his hardyboard siding (on house) with it. It took some adjusting, but it worked great.
>>
>> Is it concrete floor? If so, we'll need to drill holes with a hammerdrill, or use one of the remington nailers.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Todd Welsh <blackbeltbeekee...@gmail.com>
>> >Sent: Apr 25, 2010 4:56 PM
>> >To: LVL1 - Louisville's Hackerspace <lv...@googlegroups.com>
>> >Subject: Re: {LVL1} Re: Space Hunt: E Kentucky (Hope Mills) aggregated 1600sq ft
>>
>> >would have to do that to any space. I'm just trying to even out the
>> >cost between spaces.
>>
>> >Todd Welsh
>>
>> >You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> >Groups "LVL1 - Louisville's MakerSpace" group.
>> >To post to this group, send email to lv...@googlegroups.com
>> >To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> >lvl1+uns...@googlegroups.com
>> >For more options, visit this group at
>> >http://groups.google.com/group/lvl1?hl=en
>> >For more info about LVL1 visitwww.lvl1.org
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>> Groups "LVL1 - Louisville's MakerSpace" group.
>> To post to this group, send email to lv...@googlegroups.com
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
>> lvl1+uns...@googlegroups.com
Brad Luyster
quart, and reviews online mention that it takes 3 or 4 coats to really
work.
Chalkboard paint might be cheaper than tileboard, however. It would
be more difficult to erase, however.
On Apr 27, 9:29 am, Jeff Johnson <astutesoluti...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
Chris Worth
I"m just catching up on email.
Studs are on 16" centers.
look at your tape measures. those increments are typically red letters or marked on diamonds.
FWIW, that's probably teh goof that wall my wife's old house. Imagine my surprise when the carefully marked off shelf brackets had to be moved due to the "forgotten" studs.
I have one in my garage at the new house too.