mini lathe working?
141 views
Skip to first unread message
Geekinesis
Jul 10, 2012, 5:43:36 AM7/10/12
to London Hackspace
Hi
Is the little lathe working...if not. What needs repairing?can I have
a go.
Is the little lathe working...if not. What needs repairing?can I have
a go.
Russ Garrett
Jul 10, 2012, 5:47:16 AM7/10/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
(and a motor) for getting the medium-sized lathe up and running.
--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk
Geekinesis
Jul 10, 2012, 6:32:34 AM7/10/12
to London Hackspace
Billy
Jul 10, 2012, 10:36:08 AM7/10/12
to London Hackspace
The motor just needs replacing.
The commutator brushes were buggered. The motor wouldn't work. Hipster
tried cleaning and re-jigging them, but that didn't work out either.
Get the part number from the motor, and re-order from the original
supplier.
Eugene Nadyrshin
Oct 2, 2012, 8:17:07 PM10/2/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
Last updates on the mini lathe are 3 months old saying that it needs to
have it's motor replaced. As it's taking space and does not have a do
not hack sticker attached I've taken the liberty of checking the motor
along with James, who inquired about the mini-lathe.
Coils fine, commutator covered in a beefy layer of carbon, one brush
almost gone. Replaced the brush with a smaller one from a one of the
motors in the "motors" box, cleaned the carbon residue off the
commutator and it works, sort off. The speed controller only works for a
small range and the speed is constant after about 20%, this could
of-course be due to a brush that wasn't meant for it. I'd still advice
people against using it just yet, but if someone who has seen it working
before the fault can take a look and confirm that it's not behaving
properly that would be great.
When I'm in next I'll take a look at the motor model number and see if
we can order the right brush. If someone else wants to do that sooner,
even better.
Mentar
have it's motor replaced. As it's taking space and does not have a do
not hack sticker attached I've taken the liberty of checking the motor
along with James, who inquired about the mini-lathe.
Coils fine, commutator covered in a beefy layer of carbon, one brush
almost gone. Replaced the brush with a smaller one from a one of the
motors in the "motors" box, cleaned the carbon residue off the
commutator and it works, sort off. The speed controller only works for a
small range and the speed is constant after about 20%, this could
of-course be due to a brush that wasn't meant for it. I'd still advice
people against using it just yet, but if someone who has seen it working
before the fault can take a look and confirm that it's not behaving
properly that would be great.
When I'm in next I'll take a look at the motor model number and see if
we can order the right brush. If someone else wants to do that sooner,
even better.
Mentar
Peter "Sci" Turpin
Oct 2, 2012, 10:38:59 PM10/2/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
The control potentiometer used to be a bit flakey, may be that the lower
portion of the pots range's gone all together.
portion of the pots range's gone all together.
Billy
Oct 3, 2012, 3:03:35 AM10/3/12
to London Hackspace
I put a status update for the minilathe in this thead,
https://groups.google.com/group/london-hack-space/browse_thread/thread/31780eafa11a8acd?hl=en-GB#
Post i put then said,
"I've been digging for a replacement motor for the mini-lathe.
I can't find one on Arc Euro's website. And all of the other googling
i've done just gets chinese knock-off's of varying quality.
Looking for the different failure modes, and i found the problems with
the motor brushes. They're sacrificial and easily replacable.
Opening our motor up and the brushes are donald. There's an
interesting wear pattern, where one of the brushes is a third of the
size of the other one. Implications include off-centering of the
armature, that might require replacement of the motor in the long run.
Replacing the brushes is the quick, simple and cheap option. It may
not be the full solution to the problem, but it's worth a try.
Arc Euro don't list our exact motor, so the replacement brushes that i
found here, http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-...
may work, but they may not be exactly the ones we need.
Could someone order them, and i'll fit them... "
To repeat the request, could someone order them...
Billy
Oct 3, 2012, 3:24:57 AM10/3/12
to London Hackspace
Sorry about that, old url, http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C1-Lathe-Spares
, it's the C1-X1-BRUSHES we need. They had them then, but now they're
out of stock.
Can anyone who knows electric motors recommend other replacements?
On 3 Oct, 08:03, Billy <bi...@billycomputersmith.com> wrote:
> I put a status update for the minilathe in this thead,https://groups.google.com/group/london-hack-space/browse_thread/threa...
>
> Post i put then said,
> "I've been digging for a replacement motor for the mini-lathe.
>
> I can't find one on Arc Euro's website. And all of the other googling
> i've done just gets chinese knock-off's of varying quality.
>
> Looking for the different failure modes, and i found the problems with
> the motor brushes. They're sacrificial and easily replacable.
>
> Opening our motor up and the brushes are donald. There's an
> interesting wear pattern, where one of the brushes is a third of the
> size of the other one. Implications include off-centering of the
> armature, that might require replacement of the motor in the long run.
>
> Replacing the brushes is the quick, simple and cheap option. It may
> not be the full solution to the problem, but it's worth a try.
>
> Arc Euro don't list our exact motor, so the replacement brushes that i
> found here,http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C3-Mini-Lathe-...
> Post i put then said,
> "I've been digging for a replacement motor for the mini-lathe.
>
> I can't find one on Arc Euro's website. And all of the other googling
> i've done just gets chinese knock-off's of varying quality.
>
> Looking for the different failure modes, and i found the problems with
> the motor brushes. They're sacrificial and easily replacable.
>
> Opening our motor up and the brushes are donald. There's an
> interesting wear pattern, where one of the brushes is a third of the
> size of the other one. Implications include off-centering of the
> armature, that might require replacement of the motor in the long run.
>
> Replacing the brushes is the quick, simple and cheap option. It may
> not be the full solution to the problem, but it's worth a try.
>
> Arc Euro don't list our exact motor, so the replacement brushes that i
Eugene Nadyrshin
Oct 3, 2012, 3:45:46 AM10/3/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
Billy, I went through the mailing list looking for updates but didn't
come across your one as it was deep in a thread about the big lathe,
thanks for looking into it. I think it's generally a good idea to put
this info on the wiki mentioning the current status, so whoever wants to
use it can see what's happening on the wiki and is more inclined to do
something with it.
As for the uneven wear I think I know why that is. The motor is bolted
on to lathe body using 2 bolts on the same side of the motor. The bolts
are terminated through 2 vertical slits, probably to allow for
tightening of the drive belt, which, because of the design will cause
the commutator side of the motor to push downwards when taught. However
the motor has 3 options for alignment of the brushes so my guess is that
if they are are aligned horizontally they should last longer.
come across your one as it was deep in a thread about the big lathe,
thanks for looking into it. I think it's generally a good idea to put
this info on the wiki mentioning the current status, so whoever wants to
use it can see what's happening on the wiki and is more inclined to do
something with it.
As for the uneven wear I think I know why that is. The motor is bolted
on to lathe body using 2 bolts on the same side of the motor. The bolts
are terminated through 2 vertical slits, probably to allow for
tightening of the drive belt, which, because of the design will cause
the commutator side of the motor to push downwards when taught. However
the motor has 3 options for alignment of the brushes so my guess is that
if they are are aligned horizontally they should last longer.
Adrian Godwin
Oct 3, 2012, 4:13:36 AM10/3/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
You could try an electric motor rewind place - ideally an old one, the
sort that looks like a closed-down shop and has hundreds of old
brushes in various sizes in stock. I've seen one quite near the space
recently - I can't remember exactly where but it's possibly the one
listed at 65 Nile St.
-adrian
sort that looks like a closed-down shop and has hundreds of old
brushes in various sizes in stock. I've seen one quite near the space
recently - I can't remember exactly where but it's possibly the one
listed at 65 Nile St.
-adrian
Nigel Worsley
Oct 3, 2012, 5:31:45 AM10/3/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
> it's the C1-X1-BRUSHES we need. They had them then, but now they're out of stock.
No, the lathe is a C2 not a C1. It looks like the brushes are the same as the C3:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1686&category=5
If the measurements on that page match the old ones then order the C3 brushes (which are
also out of stock).
As for the uneven brush wear, bear in mind that this is a DC motor. One brush will be an anode
and the other a cathode, when arcing the erosion behaviour will be very different. And with a
cheap Chinese motor I would expect arcing to be the norm.
Nigle
Eugene Nadyrshin
Oct 3, 2012, 6:35:00 AM10/3/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
I believe these are the similar to:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-10PCS-Motor-Carbon-Brushes/dp/B00524TF00/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349257435&sr=8-1-fkmr0
might need to sand them down a bit, should be easy (famous last words)
I've ordered a set! ETA 9th of October
Cheers
Eugene
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-10PCS-Motor-Carbon-Brushes/dp/B00524TF00/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349257435&sr=8-1-fkmr0
might need to sand them down a bit, should be easy (famous last words)
I've ordered a set! ETA 9th of October
Cheers
Eugene
Peter "Sci" Turpin
Oct 3, 2012, 7:27:58 AM10/3/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
I found on my treadmill motors, which seem to be similar high voltage DC
setups, that the brushes used fit too loose. Like mm of space around
them so they tip to the side readily.
Measured the brush holder and found some from a power tool that are a
perfect fit.
Might be something to consider doing here too.
setups, that the brushes used fit too loose. Like mm of space around
them so they tip to the side readily.
Measured the brush holder and found some from a power tool that are a
perfect fit.
Might be something to consider doing here too.
Eugene Nadyrshin
Oct 9, 2012, 9:14:06 PM10/9/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
Right, the brushes have been replaced
with the help of Charlie. Motor running well without load but when
connected to the drive belt spins very slowly. And it's almost
like there is some sort of current limiting. Need someone with
knowledge of control electronics to take a look. Any takers?
Thanks
Mentar
Thanks
Mentar
Adrian Godwin
Oct 20, 2012, 2:55:27 PM10/20/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
I had a look at this today, couldn't get any life out of it at all.
Plug fuse had blown and some tracks on a filter pcb in the rear box.
This had happened because it had been plugged in with the filter pcb
wandering around freely in the rear box and had shorted against the
mounting screws. It can't easily be put back as the plastic insulating
casing is all smashed up.
I repaired the pcb and added some insulating material : however, this
isn't a permanent repair and will need more attention. I also repaired
the speed control knob and fuseholder, which were falling off.
This then got back to the state Mentar describes : on switching on,
the motor starts at low / medium speed and there is almost no control
of speed with the pot. It's possible that the pot is damaged / burnt
out, perhaps more likely that the motor control is faulty. I don't
think a motor fault is very likely, but it's possible.
However, the speed controller is reasonably complicated.
Reverse-engineering it enough to repair it is a long job.
It's probably worth checking the pot more thoroughly, then
investigating the cost of replacing the motor control board.
It may be the same board in the small mil : testing with this could be
a way to eliminate the motor as a cause.
-adrian
Plug fuse had blown and some tracks on a filter pcb in the rear box.
This had happened because it had been plugged in with the filter pcb
wandering around freely in the rear box and had shorted against the
mounting screws. It can't easily be put back as the plastic insulating
casing is all smashed up.
I repaired the pcb and added some insulating material : however, this
isn't a permanent repair and will need more attention. I also repaired
the speed control knob and fuseholder, which were falling off.
This then got back to the state Mentar describes : on switching on,
the motor starts at low / medium speed and there is almost no control
of speed with the pot. It's possible that the pot is damaged / burnt
out, perhaps more likely that the motor control is faulty. I don't
think a motor fault is very likely, but it's possible.
However, the speed controller is reasonably complicated.
Reverse-engineering it enough to repair it is a long job.
It's probably worth checking the pot more thoroughly, then
investigating the cost of replacing the motor control board.
It may be the same board in the small mil : testing with this could be
a way to eliminate the motor as a cause.
-adrian
Eugene Nadyrshin
Oct 20, 2012, 4:18:16 PM10/20/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
Thanks for taking a look Adrian.
The filter PCB had an insulating sheet (similar to the one in the
control box) on it, but it was loose so it must have fallen out. And
yeah the plastic box for it s shattered, it may be worth making a new
one, just to keep it safe!
I've checked the pot itself and it worked fine, there is something wrong
with the control board I believe. But as there has been little interest
in fixing the control board we'll have to take a look at replacing it.
I'll look into it once I'm at the space next.
Cheers
Mentar
The filter PCB had an insulating sheet (similar to the one in the
control box) on it, but it was loose so it must have fallen out. And
yeah the plastic box for it s shattered, it may be worth making a new
one, just to keep it safe!
I've checked the pot itself and it worked fine, there is something wrong
with the control board I believe. But as there has been little interest
in fixing the control board we'll have to take a look at replacing it.
I'll look into it once I'm at the space next.
Cheers
Mentar
Paddy Duncan
Oct 20, 2012, 4:44:32 PM10/20/12
to london-h...@googlegroups.com
Apologies I forgot to post something to the list last week...
I think it was Dean, who fancied having a poke at it, looked to see that it
appeared to be in order mechanically and electrically, and with my support,
plugged it in..
BANG
And then I forgot to post the fact to the list.
I may have a look at the control board as penance.
Paddy
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5343 - Release Date: 10/20/12
I think it was Dean, who fancied having a poke at it, looked to see that it
appeared to be in order mechanically and electrically, and with my support,
plugged it in..
BANG
And then I forgot to post the fact to the list.
I may have a look at the control board as penance.
Paddy
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5343 - Release Date: 10/20/12
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages