3-in-1 news

[Russ Garrett]

So, I got to use the 3-in-1 properly for the first time in a while
today. I got the 4-jaw chuck out and everything. It worked pretty
well.

The main issue I spotted was that the cross slide was visibly wobbly
from side to side (although it didn't affect me getting some fairly
decent facing-off cuts) I'm aware that there have been some gib strip
issues with it, but I'd just like to point out that it's still an
issue.

The rest of it was pretty good. I did notice that the headstock
gearbox is a bit low on oil. This needs topping up as soon as possible
(when was it last changed, and what oil should go in there?).

Over the weekend I bought some slideway oil (which I left next to the
machine), as well as some 150-grade machine oil and some more cutting
fluid (although it turns out we already have some). We also already
have 100-grade oil. I also bought some oil cans although they've not
been delivered yet.

We should print out and laminate an oiling schedule and get it next to
the machine, because the ways and a few other parts do need oiling
every time the machine is used.

I wiped down and oiled the machine thoroughly before leaving it.

Cheers,

--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk

[Ian Henderson]

I also used the 3 in 1 briefly yesterday and found everything as Russ has reported.

The machine is useable WITH CARE, but I will try and find some time with Steve to make some further adjustments

PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS MACHINE UNLESS YOU REALLY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING

Here's a test piece that I cut showing the machine can work well if used properly

I also suggest that we keep a clear space of at least 60cm all round the machine which will make cleaning much easier. Next time I'm in I will tidy up some of the stuff that has been dumped in this area - tarpaulins from EMF etc.

[Steve Kelly]

Nice one Russ, Ah, the 4 jaw chuck very useful addition to the 3 in 1, indeed. Can difficault to set up properly though , do we have any dial indicators?The oil cans are really needed as the one beside the lathe is worn and will not depress the oil balls.

Yes , the travel in the crossways table was of concern as we thought it was in the x/y plane however it is mainly, if not entirely in the z plane as the play disappears when the table is pulled up or pushed down. What is missing from the carriage/apron assembly is a locking mechanism, I 'll make a simple one tomorrow. This is probably what is needed and should eradicate any play in the table. There is also an issue with the main carriage Gib which cannot be adjusted easily, presently you need to remove the crossways table to do this as the shoulders of a slot in the Gib have rounded off, I will bring in a sharp file tomorrow to do this.

Also on my to do list is the oil change so I'll hopefully do that tomorrow too.

Nice piece of turning there, Ian.

Cheers

Steve

[Russ Garrett]

On 17 October 2012 20:32, Steve Kelly <kelly...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> Nice one Russ, Ah, the 4 jaw chuck very useful addition to the 3 in 1, indeed. Can difficault to set up properly though , do we have any dial indicators?

I believe we have one on a magnetic base, although I didn't need to
use it. I was just facing off and drilling; for facing off it's
sufficient to align by eye, and the drilling was easy to align using a
centre in the tailstock. The biggest faff with the 4-jaw chuck is
changing the chucks over.

--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk

[Steve Kelly]

Superb, I need to do some offset turning for which the 4-jaw is really useful , the offsets are small but tolerances tight so a dial is probably the only way I'll be able to set it up. I'll have a good look tomorrow.

 

Cheers

Steve

[Adrian Godwin]

If you plan to level it, I have a precision level that I could bring
in. It's also possible to do it with a test bar if you prefer that
method.

It would also be good to bolt it to the floor and add a kick-stop
switch. There is a large industrial microswitch on the end of some
flexible trunking somewhere near the lathe for this - it just needs a
kick bar added to the stand.

-adrian

[Steve Kelly]

Adrian, yes one of the priorities is the secure standing of the machine . I was thinking of a thick  plate of ply, bed it down on tiling adhesive, level off and fix the lathe to this. It would also help further to reduce vibration. I have already screwed the base down on two sides but there is still a lot of movement due to the weight. The kick stop would be brilliant if we can get that attached , great.

 

Cheers

Steve

[Russ Garrett]

On 17 October 2012 21:36, Steve Kelly <kelly...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> Adrian, yes one of the priorities is the secure standing of the machine . I
> was thinking of a thick plate of ply, bed it down on tiling adhesive, level
> off and fix the lathe to this. It would also help further to reduce
> vibration. I have already screwed the base down on two sides but there is
> still a lot of movement due to the weight. The kick stop would be brilliant
> if we can get that attached , great.

If we move the thing, I wonder if we want to reconsider the stand that
it's currently on. By any accounts it's a little bit flimsy, and it
does worry me a bit. I know Chester does a stand designed for this
lathe, but the price isn't on their web site.

--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk

[Ian Henderson]

I have a Chester catalogue somewhere. I'll look it up.

[Charles]

If there are any spare keys lying around may I please have one? Abbeys spare key went missing and I dont have a lockpicking set.

Regards,

Charles

[X Malmesbury]

I have some of the original batch of keys I bought left - been trying to find someone to take them, since I am not around much at the moment.

Also got details where to order more - much cheaper and better than getting crap copies made.

As for a stand - I've suggested several times that we should build a

[X Malmesbury]

... concrete base for it - build a plywood form and pour in that. It you include a based to the form it won't even stick to the floor. bolt the lathe to prepositioned bolts in the concrete.

When we leave it would require breaking up - but this is Hackspace. Breaking stuff is a core skill.

[Dean Forbes]

Thanks Both 

I agree a proper stand that is poperly secured would be a great idea, however bolting the current stand down to the solid concret slab with at least 4 x M10 Rawl Bolts or similar should render a improvement (how much may be debatable) 

[Dean Forbes]

Steve - Just a quick prompt has Russ brought the correct oil in, if we are to change the oil I would like it to be of know origin and not been lying around open. 

[Russ Garrett]

On 18 October 2012 09:53, Dean Forbes <m...@deanforbes.com> wrote:
> Steve - Just a quick prompt has Russ brought the correct oil in, if we are to change the oil I would like it to be of know origin and not been lying around open.

Just a note: I don't know what the correct oil is for the headstock
gearbox (it is conveniently not in the manual), but we do now have 100
and 150 grade oil (both in 5l containers).

--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk

[Dean Forbes]

Discusion Group or mailing list at 

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups#!forum/3-in-1-lathe-

(Hope that the link works)

On Wednesday, 17 October 2012 01:23:45 UTC+1, Russ Garrett wrote:

[Charles Duffy]

I'm at the space quite often so if you wish I can relieve you of the keys.

Regards,
Charles

[Ian Henderson]

Steve and I did quite of lot of work on the 3 in 1 today - I'll post some pictures later

We couldn't see how to drain the grearbox oil so I added 150ml of the 150 grade - which seemed similar to what was in the gearbox. At least the oil level is above the warning button now...

On Wednesday, 17 October 2012 01:23:45 UTC+1, Russ Garrett wrote:

[Russ Garrett]

My suspicion is that draining the gearbox oil is achieved by unscrewing the sight glass. I haven't tried this yet.

Given the slightly uncertain maintenance history, let's completely change the oil in a couple of weeks. Oil changes should be recorded on the wiki.

Russ

[Ian Henderson]

Did that!

I unscrewed the sight glass to give it a bit of a clean and established the oil level was below the glass. I managed to extract about 10ml of oil and based on a visual examination it looked closer to the 150 rather than the 100 oil

There's a filling hole on the right hand side so I added just enough of the 150 oil to bring it the top of he sight glass

I check it again next time I'm in

[Steve Kelly]

@ Dean , we used the brand new unopened 150 oil Russ brought in, thanks Russ

I re-cut the carriage Gib slot yesterday, this slot allows the tapered Gib to be adjusted but before it can be adjusted there is another screw at the opposite end which needs to be adjusted first. It is set up optimally now so should not be touched.

I have made a new locking piece for the carriage. Any movement in in the carriage can be locked down but the compound will have to be used for facing off/ parting.

Ian brought in his dial indicator and magnetic stand , thanks Ian . I am going to set up a piece in the 4-jaw to see what degree of accuracy I can achieve.

I cleaned out the carriage gearing and the lead screw and re-oiled.

I have already partly secured the stand , this is a temporary measure and will secure permanently.

Cheers

Steve

[Dean Forbes]

Magic 

Thanks for the fresh oil it.  I know a lathe is not as sensitive as a compressor but it does address my sensitivites to contaminated oil. (in a previous life in my role assing warranty claims on multistage compressors about half failed due to contractors using contaminated oil "normally moisture" which they denied and I then proved) Best avoided in the first place 

Thanks guys for all the extra work geting this going