When we set it up, I made sure that the set points for all the heaters
were correct (except the tinner which is no longer in use). IIRC the
developer heater is set to ~24 degrees which is the optimum
temperature for the developer. Probably not worth using the heater now
but in winter it's useful.
Resist stripper should be used at 45-50 degrees so that is correct.
--
Russ Garrett
ru...@garrett.co.uk
I have emptied the tank and left it soaking in the hope it will clear,
but it's probably necessary to poke the holes clean.
The tank needs to be flushed regularly to avoid this happening.
Probably at a minimum when the etchant is changed, but maybe more
frequently (especially if it isn't used, unfortunately).
-adrian
Adrian, today I tested it out again after its soak and it still blew the
hose off.
I rinsed it out with water a couple of times and then with hydrochloric
acid twice. It seems to be working better now, I've just left it
bubbling away with a solution of hydrochloric and sulfuric acids in it
to hopefully clear it out a bit more.
I find it's easier to just drill a new set of holes.
It's such a hassle taking the bubble bar out that on my tank I've now fixed a new L shaped bubble
bar to the tank lid/basket for easier access.
Thanks, alec
On Sun, Sep 4, 2011 at 10:52 AM, Mike Harrison <mi...@whitewing.co.uk> wrote:
>
> I find it's easier to just drill a new set of holes.
>
> It's such a hassle taking the bubble bar out that on my tank I've now fixed a new L shaped bubble
> bar to the tank lid/basket for easier access.
>
Good idea. Putting the hose through the lid to supply that would
reduce the need for an antisyphon device, too.
-adrian
That seems to have fixed it now. I've made up a new etchant solution
(the old one was getting a bit weak).