Threading Galv Steel Pipe

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Matthew Roberts

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Mar 14, 2015, 5:44:54 AM3/14/15
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Probably a vague question but do we have a tap and die set big enough to thread 1 1/4" steel pipe?

Alternatively, does anyone know of somewhere in Leeds that sells galv steel pipe cut to length and threaded?

It's purely decorative for a light I'm working on, but needs to be threaded to satisfy earthing requirements.

Cheers,
Matt

J C

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Mar 14, 2015, 6:00:21 AM3/14/15
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I think our biggest tap and die is about 15mm.

Something that big may be manageable on the lathe in time but we havent laser cut the cogs yet and I think it would need an oil pump for cutting steel.

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Jon Stockill

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Mar 15, 2015, 11:15:17 AM3/15/15
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On 14.03.2015 10:00, J C wrote:
> I think our biggest tap and die is about 15mm.

Pipe threads are tapered - you can't cut them with a normal tap/die. You
need an appropriate threading machine/tool.

> Something that big may be manageable on the lathe in time but we
> havent laser cut the cogs yet and I think it would need an oil pump
> for cutting steel.

It *may* be possible to cut pipe threads on the lathe using a
combination of the right change gears and a taper turning attachment
(unfortunately we have neither) but pipe of the size you're after
wouldn't fit through the headstock, so you'd also need a MUCH bigger
lathe.

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Jon Stockill
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Daniel F

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Mar 15, 2015, 2:28:24 PM3/15/15
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If the threading is entirely for earthing purposes, could you not earth it in a different way?

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Matthew Roberts

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Mar 16, 2015, 4:35:02 AM3/16/15
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I thought about welding, but all the elbow joints I want to use come threaded. Grub screws are definitely not allowed. I kind of like the aesthetic of exposed thread too.

You can buy stock and die sets for up to 1 1/4" pipes but just for one project that seemed a little much.

I'm thinking of alternatives, I'm sure I found a website that will do cut to length and threaded a little while ago but can't find it now.

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Matt C

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Mar 16, 2015, 8:21:57 AM3/16/15
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I'll ask downstairs at pedlars, they might have stock/die up to that size


On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 8:35:02 AM UTC, Matthew Roberts wrote:

I thought about welding, but all the elbow joints I want to use come threaded. Grub screws are definitely not allowed. I kind of like the aesthetic of exposed thread too.

You can buy stock and die sets for up to 1 1/4" pipes but just for one project that seemed a little much.

I'm thinking of alternatives, I'm sure I found a website that will do cut to length and threaded a little while ago but can't find it now.

On 15 Mar 2015 18:28, "Daniel F" <buildth...@gmail.com> wrote:

If the threading is entirely for earthing purposes, could you not earth it in a different way?

On 15 Mar 2015 15:15, "Jon Stockill" <li...@stockill.net> wrote:
On 14.03.2015 10:00, J C wrote:
I think our biggest tap and die is about 15mm.

Pipe threads are tapered - you can't cut them with a normal tap/die. You need an appropriate threading machine/tool.

Something that big may be manageable on the lathe in time but we
havent laser cut the cogs yet and I think it would need an oil pump
for cutting steel.

It *may* be possible to cut pipe threads on the lathe using a combination of the right change gears and a taper turning attachment (unfortunately we have neither) but pipe of the size you're after wouldn't fit through the headstock, so you'd also need a MUCH bigger lathe.

--
Jon Stockill
li...@stockill.net

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Onlyhalfdone

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Mar 22, 2015, 4:03:19 AM3/22/15
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usually over an inch they use an electric pipe threader (that might be just for speed I'm not sure) a plumber, sprinkler installer or industrial electrician would be your best bet. welding will burn off any galv, you have to galv it after you weld it. some paint products react with galv. you can't rely on the earthing of the pipe as the earth for your wiring you need to put a designated earth wire in (if you didn't know this) if it's for earthing the product for safety that's different (I don't know what's required on earthing)

Matthew Roberts

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Mar 22, 2015, 4:49:41 AM3/22/15
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Thanks for the input, I'm coming to the conclusion that an inch will be fine and was also thinking about a local tradesman for cutting and threading it.

The earthing requirement was for safety as it's just structural but will have cabling for the lights wrapped around it so the threaded contact will provide sufficient continuity.

On 22 Mar 2015 08:03, "Onlyhalfdone" <onlyha...@gmail.com> wrote:
usually over an inch they use an electric pipe threader (that might be just for speed I'm not sure) a plumber, sprinkler installer or industrial electrician would be your best bet. welding will burn off any galv, you have to galv it after you weld it. some paint products react with galv. you can't rely on the earthing of the pipe as the earth for your wiring you need to put a designated earth wire in (if you didn't know this) if it's for earthing the product for safety that's different (I don't know what's required on earthing)

Onlyhalfdone

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Mar 22, 2015, 5:38:42 AM3/22/15
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Sparks thread 25mm galv by hand all the time, it takes a bit of elbow grease (and cutting compound) but I've never seen it tapped onsite before, usually just use pre formed joints and bend it for corners or use junction boxes.

Matthew Roberts

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Mar 22, 2015, 9:12:18 AM3/22/15
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Tapping's not the problem as all the fittings come pre-threaded. I think my problem is that the volumes I want are so small fry that it isn't really a consideration for suppliers. All I need are a couple of elbows a couple of flanges and three lengths of pipe.

On 22 Mar 2015 09:38, "Onlyhalfdone" <onlyha...@gmail.com> wrote:
Sparks thread 25mm galv by hand all the time, it takes a bit of elbow grease (and cutting compound) but I've never seen it tapped onsite before, usually just use pre formed joints and bend it for corners or use junction boxes.

tmp...@gmail.com

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Jun 6, 2016, 3:50:30 PM6/6/16
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Sorry, extremely late to this thread.

[From memory so I may not be entirely accurate]: Under the 15th Edition IEE Wiring Regs the protective conductor (earth to anyone who's not an electrician) didn't have to be separate from the enclosure (conduit/trunking) as long as it would withstand 25A for 5 seconds. This changed with the introduction of the 16th Edition largely, I think, because of the increasing use of PVC trunking and conduit which necessitated use of a separate protective conductor. 

I've often threaded 20mm conduit by hand and occasionally 25mm but was always pleased when heating engineers were on site and we could borrow their threading machine...

T
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