*the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into blobs of plastic.
--Adrian
On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. Essentially > we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up the frame. > This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on the market > right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle included as well > as aluminum heated bed.*
> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time, short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some Locktite).
What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
Thanks,
Daniel H. Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
- Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria <adrian.sanab...@gmail.com>wrote:
> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D > printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was > unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of > every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he was > simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before > pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D > printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into > blobs of plastic.
> --Adrian
> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. Essentially >> we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up the frame. >> This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on the market >> right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle included as well >> as aluminum heated bed.*
>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote: > Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his probably > wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and boy was > I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my desk > with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration and > time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly addressed > with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working on here use > PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at least better > than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has increased > drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for them, > running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the > originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at > a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C > to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty > much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the > success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print > started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time, > short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some > Locktite).
> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio mentioned > there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the > hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently > working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help > yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well > as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on > where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
> Thanks,
> Daniel H. > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < > adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D >> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was >> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of >> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he >> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before >> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D >> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into >> blobs of plastic.
>> --Adrian
>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. Essentially >>> we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up the frame. >>> This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on the market >>> right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle included as well >>> as aluminum heated bed.*
>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
> wrote: > Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using ABS.
> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his probably >> wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and boy was >> I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my desk >> with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration and >> time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly addressed >> with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working on here use >> PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at least better >> than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has increased >> drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for them, >> running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the >> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at >> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C >> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty >> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the >> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print >> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time, >> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some >> Locktite).
>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio mentioned >> there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the >> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently >> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help >> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well >> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on >> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
>> Thanks,
>> Daniel H. >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D >>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was >>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of >>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he >>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before >>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D >>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into >>> blobs of plastic.
>>> --Adrian
>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. >>>> Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up >>>> the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on >>>> the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle >>>> included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
>>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote: > Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due to > how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's much > better.
> Thanks,
> Daniel H. > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < > adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using ABS.
>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his >>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and >>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my >>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration >>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly >>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working >>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at >>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has >>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for >>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the >>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at >>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C >>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty >>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the >>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print >>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time, >>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some >>> Locktite).
>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio >>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the >>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently >>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help >>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well >>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on >>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Daniel H. >>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < >>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D >>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was >>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of >>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
>>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he >>>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before >>>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D >>>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into >>>> blobs of plastic.
>>>> --Adrian
>>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. >>>>> Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up >>>>> the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on >>>>> the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle >>>>> included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
>>>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather than trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear out easily and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You have to order the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going to last and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might have to do is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on the motors. 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find out. What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer itself so that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. They're a pain to tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull. 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs roughly 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The advantage of this power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't need anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines at the expense of space. 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. He puts out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm because it addresses some issues that older printers had with material expanding and plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice because you can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints. 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's totally modular so rather than having one single board you can replace and swap out pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn something out. There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're nice, but for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new everything when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to Memphis, and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You can likely get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I end up sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship them with the printed stuff.
There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being the motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. Other than that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called Fastenal to get what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft smooth rods, and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers and bolts to go on the thread-all.
I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out and get those posted.
Thanks,
Daniel H. Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
- Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you suggest > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> - samthegiant -
> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due to >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's much >> better.
>> Thanks,
>> Daniel H. >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using ABS.
>>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
>>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time, >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some >>>> Locktite).
>>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Daniel H. >>>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < >>>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D >>>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was >>>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of >>>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
>>>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he >>>>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before >>>>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D >>>>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into >>>>> blobs of plastic.
>>>>> --Adrian
>>>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. >>>>>> Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up >>>>>> the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on >>>>>> the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle >>>>>> included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
>>>>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional
printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood
(pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting
your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra
parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to
get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and
we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn
3d printers are my primary mission.
Andy
On Jun 30, 7:08 pm, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather than
> trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear out easily
> and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You have to order
> the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going to last
> and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might have to do
> is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on the motors.
> 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find out.
> What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer itself so
> that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. They're a pain to
> tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull.
> 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs roughly
> 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The advantage of this
> power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from
> Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't need
> anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines at the
> expense of space.
> 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. He puts
> out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm because it
> addresses some issues that older printers had with material expanding and
> plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice because you
> can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints.
> 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's totally
> modular so rather than having one single board you can replace and swap out
> pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn something out.
> There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're nice, but
> for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new everything
> when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all.
> 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to Memphis,
> and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You can likely
> get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I end up
> sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship them with
> the printed stuff.
> There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being the
> motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. Other than
> that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called Fastenal to get
> what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft smooth rods,
> and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers and bolts
> to go on the thread-all.
> I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out and get
> those posted.
> Thanks,
> Daniel H.
> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> > Dan,
> > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you suggest
> > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> > - samthegiant -
> > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due to
> >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's much
> >> better.
> >> Thanks,
> >> Daniel H.
> >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria <
> >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using ABS.
> >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his
> >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of life, and
> >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of plastic on my
> >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of configuration
> >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
> >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly
> >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are working
> >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing so at
> >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed has
> >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been released for
> >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster than the
> >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it runs at
> >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range of 170C
> >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is pretty
> >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of getting the
> >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get a print
> >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every time,
> >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest in some
> >>>> Locktite).
> >>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio
> >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are part of the
> >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm currently
> >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love to help
> >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going as well
> >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some direction on
> >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do to help.
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> Daniel H.
> >>>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> >>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> >>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria <
> >>>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake 3D
> >>>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally underwhelmed. It was
> >>>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable result out of
> >>>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
> >>>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, or he
> >>>>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews before
> >>>>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a cheap 3D
> >>>>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic into
> >>>>> blobs of plastic.
> >>>>> --Adrian
> >>>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> >>>>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered.
> >>>>>> Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client put up
> >>>>>> the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best thing on
> >>>>>> the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm nozzle
> >>>>>> included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
> >>>>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me to the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and running for myself.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> wrote: > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn > 3d printers are my primary mission.
> > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather than > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear out > easily > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You have to > order > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going to > last > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might have > to do > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on the > motors. > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find out. > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer > itself so > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. They're a > pain to > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull. > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs > roughly > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The advantage of > this > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't need > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines at > the > > expense of space. > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. He > puts > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm because it > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material expanding > and > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice because > you > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints. > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's totally > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace and > swap out > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn something > out. > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're nice, > but > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new > everything > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to > Memphis, > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You can > likely > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I end up > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship them > with > > the printed stuff.
> > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being the > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. Other > than > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called Fastenal to > get > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft smooth > rods, > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers and > bolts > > to go on the thread-all.
> > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out and get > > those posted.
> > Thanks,
> > Daniel H. > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com > >wrote:
> > > Dan,
> > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you > suggest > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> > > - samthegiant -
> > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due to > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's much > > >> better.
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> Daniel H. > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using > ABS.
> > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of > life, and > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of > plastic on my > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of > configuration > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
> > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly > > >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are > working > > >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing > so at > > >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed > has > > >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been > released for > > >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster > than the > > >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it > runs at > > >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range > of 170C > > >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is > pretty > > >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of > getting the > > >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get > a print > > >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every > time, > > >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest > in some > > >>>> Locktite).
> > >>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio > > >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are > part of the > > >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm > currently > > >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love > to help > > >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going > as well > > >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some > direction on > > >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do > to help.
> > >>>> Thanks,
> > >>>> Daniel H. > > >>>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > >>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > >>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < > > >>>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake > 3D > > >>>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally > underwhelmed. It was > > >>>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable > result out of > > >>>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
> > >>>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated, > or he > > >>>>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews > before > > >>>>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a > cheap 3D > > >>>>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic > into > > >>>>> blobs of plastic.
> > >>>>> --Adrian
> > >>>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant < > samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> > >>>>>> *the first ikea-like 3D printer kit that anyone has offered. > > >>>>>> Essentially we are doing all the assemblies and letting the client > put up > > >>>>>> the frame. This printer is on sale for under $1200. It's the best > thing on > > >>>>>> the market right now with a new interchange-able 3mm and 1.75mm > nozzle > > >>>>>> included as well as aluminum heated bed.*
> > >>>>>> Could be worth looking at to get us past the bootstrap phase....
Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you
acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones
and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i
ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has
built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for
others.... thanks. Knox
On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me to
> the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and running
> for myself.
> - samthegiant -
> On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional
> > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood
> > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting
> > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra
> > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to
> > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and
> > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn
> > 3d printers are my primary mission.
> > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather than
> > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear out
> > easily
> > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You have to
> > order
> > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going to
> > last
> > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might have
> > to do
> > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on the
> > motors.
> > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find out.
> > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer
> > itself so
> > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. They're a
> > pain to
> > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull.
> > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs
> > roughly
> > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The advantage of
> > this
> > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from
> > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't need
> > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines at
> > the
> > > expense of space.
> > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. He
> > puts
> > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm because it
> > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material expanding
> > and
> > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice because
> > you
> > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints.
> > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's totally
> > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace and
> > swap out
> > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn something
> > out.
> > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're nice,
> > but
> > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new
> > everything
> > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all.
> > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to
> > Memphis,
> > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You can
> > likely
> > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I end up
> > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship them
> > with
> > > the printed stuff.
> > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being the
> > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. Other
> > than
> > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called Fastenal to
> > get
> > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft smooth
> > rods,
> > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers and
> > bolts
> > > to go on the thread-all.
> > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out and get
> > > those posted.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Daniel H.
> > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com
> > >wrote:
> > > > Dan,
> > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you
> > suggest
> > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> > > > - samthegiant -
> > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due to
> > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's much
> > > >> better.
> > > >> Thanks,
> > > >> Daniel H.
> > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria <
> > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was using
> > ABS.
> > > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that his
> > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way of
> > life, and
> > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of
> > plastic on my
> > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of
> > configuration
> > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good print.
> > > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly
> > > >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we are
> > working
> > > >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when printing
> > so at
> > > >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The speed
> > has
> > > >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been
> > released for
> > > >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster
> > than the
> > > >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat as it
> > runs at
> > > >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the range
> > of 170C
> > > >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it is
> > pretty
> > > >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of
> > getting the
> > > >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to get
> > a print
> > > >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost every
> > time,
> > > >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to invest
> > in some
> > > >>>> Locktite).
> > > >>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio
> > > >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are
> > part of the
> > > >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm
> > currently
> > > >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would love
> > to help
> > > >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get going
> > as well
> > > >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some
> > direction on
> > > >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can do
> > to help.
> > > >>>> Thanks,
> > > >>>> Daniel H.
> > > >>>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > >>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > >>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria <
> > > >>>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a cupcake
> > 3D
> > > >>>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally
> > underwhelmed. It was
> > > >>>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable
> > result out of
> > > >>>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked awful.
> > > >>>>> I'll admit, it is quite possible that his wasn't well calibrated,
> > or he
> > > >>>>> was simply using it wrong. Still, I'd thoroughly peruse the reviews
> > before
> > > >>>>> pulling the trigger on any of the cheaper ones. What looks like a
> > cheap 3D
> > > >>>>> printer might be a really expensive way to turn strands of plastic
> > into
> > > >>>>> blobs of plastic.
> > > >>>>> --Adrian
> > > >>>>> On Sat, Jun 25, 2011 at 2:36 PM, Sam the Giant <
> > samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> > > >>>>>> Oddly enough after our discussion last night I happened to notice
> > in
> > > >>>>>> my Twitter stream an article<
Knox, I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left over parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably be middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting started.
Andy, How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and running?
On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you > acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones > and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i > ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has > built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for > others.... thanks. Knox
> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me to > > the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and > running > > for myself.
> > - samthegiant -
> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional > > > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood > > > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting > > > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra > > > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to > > > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and > > > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn > > > 3d printers are my primary mission.
> > > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather > than > > > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear out > > > easily > > > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You have > to > > > order > > > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going > to > > > last > > > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might > have > > > to do > > > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on the > > > motors. > > > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find > out. > > > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer > > > itself so > > > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. They're > a > > > pain to > > > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull. > > > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs > > > roughly > > > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The > advantage of > > > this > > > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from > > > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't > need > > > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines > at > > > the > > > > expense of space. > > > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. > He > > > puts > > > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm because > it > > > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material > expanding > > > and > > > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice > because > > > you > > > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints. > > > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's > totally > > > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace and > > > swap out > > > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn something > > > out. > > > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're > nice, > > > but > > > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new > > > everything > > > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. > > > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to > > > Memphis, > > > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You > can > > > likely > > > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I > end up > > > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship > them > > > with > > > > the printed stuff.
> > > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being the > > > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. Other > > > than > > > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called Fastenal > to > > > get > > > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft smooth > > > rods, > > > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers and > > > bolts > > > > to go on the thread-all.
> > > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out and > get > > > > those posted.
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Daniel H. > > > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan < > samthegi...@gmail.com > > > >wrote:
> > > > > Dan,
> > > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you > > > suggest > > > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> > > > > - samthegiant -
> > > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> > wrote:
> > > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due > to > > > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's > much > > > > >> better.
> > > > >> Thanks,
> > > > >> Daniel H. > > > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < > > > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was > using > > > ABS.
> > > > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> > > > wrote:
> > > > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that > his > > > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way > of > > > life, and > > > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of > > > plastic on my > > > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of > > > configuration > > > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good > print.
> > > > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are partly > > > > >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we > are > > > working > > > > >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when > printing > > > so at > > > > >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The > speed > > > has > > > > >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been > > > released for > > > > >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x faster > > > than the > > > > >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat > as it > > > runs at > > > > >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the > range > > > of 170C > > > > >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it > is > > > pretty > > > > >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of > > > getting the > > > > >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to > get > > > a print > > > > >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost > every > > > time, > > > > >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to > invest > > > in some > > > > >>>> Locktite).
> > > > >>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As Claudio > > > > >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that are > > > part of the > > > > >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm > > > currently > > > > >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would > love > > > to help > > > > >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get > going > > > as well > > > > >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some > > > direction on > > > > >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what we can > do > > > to help.
> > > > >>>> Thanks,
> > > > >>>> Daniel H. > > > > >>>> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > > > >>>> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > > > >>>> On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Adrian Sanabria < > > > > >>>> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > >>>>> I don't know about the other inexpensive ones, but I saw a > cupcake > > > 3D > > > > >>>>> printer in action at DefCon last year, and was totally > > > underwhelmed. It was > > > > >>>>> unbearably slow, hot, smelly, and the guy only got one usable > > > result out of > > > > >>>>> every 5 tries. What he eventually called a "success" looked > awful.
> Knox, > I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left over > parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed > components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably be > middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting started.
> Andy, > How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and > running?
> - samthegiant -
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you >> acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones >> and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i >> ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has >> built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for >> others.... thanks. Knox
>> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: >> > Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me >> to >> > the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and >> running >> > for myself.
>> > - samthegiant -
>> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> wrote: >> > > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional >> > > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood >> > > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting >> > > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra >> > > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to >> > > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and >> > > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn >> > > 3d printers are my primary mission.
>> > > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those rather >> than >> > > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear >> out >> > > easily >> > > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You >> have to >> > > order >> > > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is going >> to >> > > last >> > > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might >> have >> > > to do >> > > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on >> the >> > > motors. >> > > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find >> out. >> > > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the printer >> > > itself so >> > > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. >> They're a >> > > pain to >> > > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull. >> > > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it needs >> > > roughly >> > > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The >> advantage of >> > > this >> > > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from >> > > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't >> need >> > > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines >> at >> > > the >> > > > expense of space. >> > > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. >> He >> > > puts >> > > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm >> because it >> > > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material >> expanding >> > > and >> > > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice >> because >> > > you >> > > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints. >> > > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's >> totally >> > > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace >> and >> > > swap out >> > > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn >> something >> > > out. >> > > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're >> nice, >> > > but >> > > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new >> > > everything >> > > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. >> > > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to >> > > Memphis, >> > > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. You >> can >> > > likely >> > > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I >> end up >> > > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship >> them >> > > with >> > > > the printed stuff.
>> > > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being >> the >> > > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. >> Other >> > > than >> > > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called >> Fastenal to >> > > get >> > > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft >> smooth >> > > rods, >> > > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers >> and >> > > bolts >> > > > to go on the thread-all.
>> > > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out >> and get >> > > > those posted.
>> > > > Thanks,
>> > > > Daniel H. >> > > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>> > > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>> > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan < >> samthegi...@gmail.com >> > > >wrote:
>> > > > > Dan,
>> > > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you >> > > suggest >> > > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
>> > > > > - samthegiant -
>> > > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> >> wrote:
>> > > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental due >> to >> > > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's >> much >> > > > >> better.
>> > > > >> Thanks,
>> > > > >> Daniel H. >> > > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>> > > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>> > > > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < >> > > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > > > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was >> using >> > > ABS.
>> > > > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> >> > > wrote:
>> > > > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that >> his >> > > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a way >> of >> > > life, and >> > > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of >> > > plastic on my >> > > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of >> > > configuration >> > > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good >> print.
>> > > > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are >> partly >> > > > >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we >> are >> > > working >> > > > >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when >> printing >> > > so at >> > > > >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The >> speed >> > > has >> > > > >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been >> > > released for >> > > > >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x >> faster >> > > than the >> > > > >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat >> as it >> > > runs at >> > > > >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the >> range >> > > of 170C >> > > > >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that it >> is >> > > pretty >> > > > >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of >> > > getting the >> > > > >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries to >> get >> > > a print >> > > > >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost >> every >> > > time, >> > > > >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to >> invest >> > > in some >> > > > >>>> Locktite).
>> > > > >>>> What I can and would like to offer you guys is help. As >> Claudio >> > > > >>>> mentioned there are 3 of us with Prusas here in Memphis that >> are >> > > part of the >> > > > >>>> hackerspace, and over all we have 5 printers in the group. I'm >> > > currently >> > > > >>>> working to get parts printed for the Nashville guys, but would >> love >> > > to help >> > > > >>>> yall as well. I'm sure we could get you parts printed to get >> going >> > > as well >> > > > >>>> as answer questions, provide calibrating assistance, and some >> > > direction on >> > > > >>>> where to get things. Just let me know and we'll see what
> Basically a dirt-cheap way to do 3D scans. Seems like the combination of a > 3D scanner and a 3D printer could be pretty cool.
> -Dave
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 9:30 PM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Knox, >> I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left >> over parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed >> components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably be >> middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting started.
>> Andy, >> How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and >> running?
>> - samthegiant -
>> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you >>> acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones >>> and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i >>> ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has >>> built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for >>> others.... thanks. Knox
>>> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> > Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me >>> to >>> > the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and >>> running >>> > for myself.
>>> > - samthegiant -
>>> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> >>> wrote: >>> > > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one >>> functional >>> > > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood >>> > > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting >>> > > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra >>> > > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT >>> to >>> > > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function >>> and >>> > > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these >>> damn >>> > > 3d printers are my primary mission.
>>> > > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those >>> rather than >>> > > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear >>> out >>> > > easily >>> > > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You >>> have to >>> > > order >>> > > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is >>> going to >>> > > last >>> > > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might >>> have >>> > > to do >>> > > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on >>> the >>> > > motors. >>> > > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find >>> out. >>> > > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the >>> printer >>> > > itself so >>> > > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. >>> They're a >>> > > pain to >>> > > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull. >>> > > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it >>> needs >>> > > roughly >>> > > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The >>> advantage of >>> > > this >>> > > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from >>> > > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't >>> need >>> > > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines >>> at >>> > > the >>> > > > expense of space. >>> > > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from. >>> He >>> > > puts >>> > > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm >>> because it >>> > > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material >>> expanding >>> > > and >>> > > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice >>> because >>> > > you >>> > > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints. >>> > > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's >>> totally >>> > > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace >>> and >>> > > swap out >>> > > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn >>> something >>> > > out. >>> > > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're >>> nice, >>> > > but >>> > > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new >>> > > everything >>> > > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. >>> > > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to >>> > > Memphis, >>> > > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. >>> You can >>> > > likely >>> > > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I >>> end up >>> > > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship >>> them >>> > > with >>> > > > the printed stuff.
>>> > > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being >>> the >>> > > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. >>> Other >>> > > than >>> > > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called >>> Fastenal to >>> > > get >>> > > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft >>> smooth >>> > > rods, >>> > > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers >>> and >>> > > bolts >>> > > > to go on the thread-all.
>>> > > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out >>> and get >>> > > > those posted.
>>> > > > Thanks,
>>> > > > Daniel H. >>> > > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>>> > > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>>> > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan < >>> samthegi...@gmail.com >>> > > >wrote:
>>> > > > > Dan,
>>> > > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you >>> > > suggest >>> > > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
>>> > > > > - samthegiant -
>>> > > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> >>> wrote:
>>> > > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental >>> due to >>> > > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's >>> much >>> > > > >> better.
>>> > > > >> Thanks,
>>> > > > >> Daniel H. >>> > > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
>>> > > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
>>> > > > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria < >>> > > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> > > > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was >>> using >>> > > ABS.
>>> > > > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com> >>> > > wrote:
>>> > > > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that >>> his >>> > > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a >>> way of >>> > > life, and >>> > > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of >>> > > plastic on my >>> > > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of >>> > > configuration >>> > > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good >>> print.
>>> > > > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those are >>> partly >>> > > > >>>> addressed with the Prusa that Claudio linked. The printers we >>> are >>> > > working >>> > > > >>>> on here use PLA plastic, which smells like maple syrup when >>> printing >>> > > so at >>> > > > >>>> least better than the ABS I'm sure the Cupcake was using. The >>> speed >>> > > has >>> > > > >>>> increased drastically with the latest firmware that has been >>> > > released for >>> > > > >>>> them, running at roughly 100 to 120 mm/s which is over 3x >>> faster >>> > > than the >>> > > > >>>> originals. The PLA is also convenient for addressing the heat >>> as it >>> > > runs at >>> > > > >>>> a much lower temp than the ABS. PLA you run somewhere in the >>> range >>> > > of 170C >>> > > > >>>> to 185C, any hotter than that and it becomes so liquidy that >>> it is >>> > > pretty >>> > > > >>>> much worthless. I will admit that I'm still in the stages of >>> > > getting the >>> > > > >>>> success rate of mine up. It sometimes takes me 2 or 3 tries >>> to get >>> > > a print >>> > > > >>>> started, but once it is going it prints to completion almost >>> every >>> > > time, >>> > > > >>>> short of a screw coming loose or a belt slipping (I need to >>> invest >>> > > in some
On Thursday, July 7, 2011, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: > Could be pretty cool. I'm actually intrigued by the Trimensional 3D scanning iPhone app from Georgia Tech.
> Basically a dirt-cheap way to do 3D scans. Seems like the combination of a 3D scanner and a 3D printer could be pretty cool.
> -Dave
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 9:30 PM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: > Knox, > I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left over parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably be middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting started.
> Andy, > How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and running?
> - samthegiant -
> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you > acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones > and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i > ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has > built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for > others.... thanks. Knox
> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me to >> the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and running >> for myself.
>> - samthegiant -
>> On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> wrote: >> > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one functional >> > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood >> > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting >> > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra >> > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT to >> > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function and >> > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these damn >> > 3d printers are my primary mission.
I finally found that link I was talking about at Smoky Mtn Brewery.
This is a PhD project using a standard webcam as a 3d scanner. The
video shows a few bad points in the mesh, but it's acquired and mapped
in about 30 seconds so I'm sure that can be improved. Also, he's not
using a background in the video, just a desk so I'm sure using a green
screen or the like would greatly improve the results. There is a
similar project using a Kinect, but the technique is different and I
can't find the link =(
> > Basically a dirt-cheap way to do 3D scans. Seems like the combination of a
> > 3D scanner and a 3D printer could be pretty cool.
> > -Dave
> > On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 9:30 PM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com>wrote:
> >> Knox,
> >> I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left
> >> over parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed
> >> components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably be
> >> middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting started.
> >> Andy,
> >> How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and
> >> running?
> >> - samthegiant -
> >> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are you
> >>> acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded ones
> >>> and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i
> >>> ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has
> >>> built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for
> >>> others.... thanks. Knox
> >>> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> > Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted me
> >>> to
> >>> > the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up and
> >>> running
> >>> > for myself.
> >>> > - samthegiant -
> >>> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>> > > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one
> >>> functional
> >>> > > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on wood
> >>> > > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in making/starting
> >>> > > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra
> >>> > > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how NOT
> >>> to
> >>> > > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to function
> >>> and
> >>> > > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these
> >>> damn
> >>> > > 3d printers are my primary mission.
> >>> > > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those
> >>> rather than
> >>> > > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will wear
> >>> out
> >>> > > easily
> >>> > > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. You
> >>> have to
> >>> > > order
> >>> > > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is
> >>> going to
> >>> > > last
> >>> > > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you might
> >>> have
> >>> > > to do
> >>> > > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug on
> >>> the
> >>> > > motors.
> >>> > > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to find
> >>> out.
> >>> > > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the
> >>> printer
> >>> > > itself so
> >>> > > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up.
> >>> They're a
> >>> > > pain to
> >>> > > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and pull.
> >>> > > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it
> >>> needs
> >>> > > roughly
> >>> > > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The
> >>> advantage of
> >>> > > this
> >>> > > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from
> >>> > > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You don't
> >>> need
> >>> > > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary lines
> >>> at
> >>> > > the
> >>> > > > expense of space.
> >>> > > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend from.
> >>> He
> >>> > > puts
> >>> > > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm
> >>> because it
> >>> > > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material
> >>> expanding
> >>> > > and
> >>> > > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really nice
> >>> because
> >>> > > you
> >>> > > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your prints.
> >>> > > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's
> >>> totally
> >>> > > > modular so rather than having one single board you can replace
> >>> and
> >>> > > swap out
> >>> > > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn
> >>> something
> >>> > > out.
> >>> > > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and they're
> >>> nice,
> >>> > > but
> >>> > > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole new
> >>> > > everything
> >>> > > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all.
> >>> > > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local to
> >>> > > Memphis,
> >>> > > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price.
> >>> You can
> >>> > > likely
> >>> > > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. If I
> >>> end up
> >>> > > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and ship
> >>> them
> >>> > > with
> >>> > > > the printed stuff.
> >>> > > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one being
> >>> the
> >>> > > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from.
> >>> Other
> >>> > > than
> >>> > > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called
> >>> Fastenal to
> >>> > > get
> >>> > > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft
> >>> smooth
> >>> > > rods,
> >>> > > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of washers
> >>> and
> >>> > > bolts
> >>> > > > to go on the thread-all.
> >>> > > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left out
> >>> and get
> >>> > > > those posted.
> >>> > > > Thanks,
> >>> > > > Daniel H.
> >>> > > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> >>> > > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> >>> > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan <
> >>> samthegi...@gmail.com
> >>> > > >wrote:
> >>> > > > > Dan,
> >>> > > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would you
> >>> > > suggest
> >>> > > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> >>> > > > > - samthegiant -
> >>> > > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>> > > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more temperamental
> >>> due to
> >>> > > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think it's
> >>> much
> >>> > > > >> better.
> >>> > > > >> Thanks,
> >>> > > > >> Daniel H.
> >>> > > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> >>> > > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> >>> > > > >> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 11:25 AM, Adrian Sanabria <
> >>> > > > >> adrian.sanab...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> > > > >>> Sweet - thanks for the reply and the information! Yes, he was
> >>> using
> >>> > > ABS.
> >>> > > > >>> On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 10:56 AM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com>
> >>> > > wrote:
> >>> > > > >>>> Adrian, you are definitely right about underwhelming and that
> >>> his
> >>> > > > >>>> probably wasn't calibrated well. The DIY 3D printers are a
> >>> way of
> >>> > > life, and
> >>> > > > >>>> boy was I wrong to think it would just plop golden nuggets of
> >>> > > plastic on my
> >>> > > > >>>> desk with little effort. None the less, with a good bit of
> >>> > > configuration
> >>> > > > >>>> and time invested you can tweak it down and get a really good
> >>> print.
> >>> > > > >>>> For the speed, smell, heat, and success, all of those
You can also e-mail 3-d model files from the app. It seems like a cute gimmick, though, since it only produces a model from a single perspective, it doesn't create a complete model. It also seems to produce pretty low-quality scans.
On Thu, Jul 7, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Bstrdsmkr <bstrds...@gmail.com> wrote: > I finally found that link I was talking about at Smoky Mtn Brewery. > This is a PhD project using a standard webcam as a 3d scanner. The > video shows a few bad points in the mesh, but it's acquired and mapped > in about 30 seconds so I'm sure that can be improved. Also, he's not > using a background in the video, just a desk so I'm sure using a green > screen or the like would greatly improve the results. There is a > similar project using a Kinect, but the technique is different and I > can't find the link =(
> On Jul 7, 6:49 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Could be pretty cool. I'm actually intrigued by the Trimensional 3D > > scanning iPhone app from Georgia Tech.
> > They claim to be able to output an STL file directly so it has some > > interesting possibilities if looking currently somewhat limited.
> > - samthegiant -
> > On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 10:13 PM, David Levi <dbl...@double-apps.com> > wrote: > > > Hey Guys,
> > > On a related topic to 3D printers, has anybody looked into 3D scanners? > > > This thread got me curious, and a little poking around turned up this:
> > > Basically a dirt-cheap way to do 3D scans. Seems like the combination > of a > > > 3D scanner and a 3D printer could be pretty cool.
> > > -Dave
> > > On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 9:30 PM, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com > >wrote:
> > >> Knox, > > >> I'm pretty much starting from ground zero. Andy has offered some left > > >> over parts and Dan has said he might be able to offer us some printed > > >> components. I unfortunately just had to buy a car so it'll probably > be > > >> middle of the month before I can throw any serious money at getting > started.
> > >> Andy, > > >> How far did you get over the holiday weekend on getting yours up and > > >> running?
> > >> - samthegiant -
> > >> On Wed, Jul 6, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Knox Franklin <knox...@gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >>> Hey Sam, where are you starting on parts as far as what parts are > you > > >>> acquiring first and so on, i was going to begin with the extruded > ones > > >>> and go from there to all the nuts, bolts, washers, rods and such. i > > >>> ask because i have not been able to actually talk to someone that has > > >>> built one... you know experience, like you said last night learn for > > >>> others.... thanks. Knox
> > >>> On Jul 2, 9:22 am, Sam McClanahan <samthegi...@gmail.com> wrote: > > >>> > Very cool. 3D printers were one of the first things that attracted > me > > >>> to > > >>> > the maker/hackerspace movement. I definitely want to get one up > and > > >>> running > > >>> > for myself.
> > >>> > - samthegiant -
> > >>> > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Andronicus <aklau...@gmail.com> > > >>> wrote: > > >>> > > Well with any luck, by Saturday we should have at least one > > >>> functional > > >>> > > printer in the group and 3 functional axes on another. Knox on > wood > > >>> > > (pun teehee). Sam if you are really interested in > making/starting > > >>> > > your own soon, I have a whole crap load of extra fasteners, extra > > >>> > > parts, as well as a whole bunch of functional experience of how > NOT > > >>> to > > >>> > > get a 3d printer to work. We just need this first one to > function > > >>> and > > >>> > > we can crank em out. I'm off work until next Wednesday and these > > >>> damn > > >>> > > 3d printers are my primary mission.
> > >>> > > > 1. The pulleys, I recommend going ahead and ordering those > > >>> rather than > > >>> > > > trying to use the printed pulleys. The printed ones will > wear > > >>> out > > >>> > > easily > > >>> > > > and can be troublesome to get to grip the belt properly. > You > > >>> have to > > >>> > > order > > >>> > > > the belt anyways so you might as well get something that is > > >>> going to > > >>> > > last > > >>> > > > and is made to precision for it. The only thing that you > might > > >>> have > > >>> > > to do > > >>> > > > is drill out the center of the pulley to get it to fit snug > on > > >>> the > > >>> > > motors. > > >>> > > > 2. I don't know the precise length you'll need, I'll try to > find > > >>> out. > > >>> > > > What I can say is make sure that you leave enough on the > > >>> printer > > >>> > > itself so > > >>> > > > that you have something to grip hold of to tighten it up. > > >>> They're a > > >>> > > pain to > > >>> > > > tighten so no point in leaving yourself a nub to try and > pull. > > >>> > > > 3. You can use an ATX power supply if you so choose, but it > > >>> needs > > >>> > > roughly > > >>> > > > 240 watts to run the heated build platform and such. The > > >>> advantage of > > >>> > > this > > >>> > > > power supply is that it's cheaper than ordering from > > >>> > > > Jameco/Mouser/DigiKey/etc and it is very low profile. You > don't > > >>> need > > >>> > > > anything but 12v lines so the ATX one provides unnecessary > lines > > >>> at > > >>> > > the > > >>> > > > expense of space. > > >>> > > > 4. MakerGear is probably the best place to get your hotend > from. > > >>> He > > >>> > > puts > > >>> > > > out quality work, and I highly recommend the hybrid 1.75mm > > >>> because it > > >>> > > > addresses some issues that older printers had with material > > >>> expanding > > >>> > > and > > >>> > > > plastic sticking once melted. The 1.75mm is also really > nice > > >>> because > > >>> > > you > > >>> > > > can do smaller nozzles and get better resolution on your > prints. > > >>> > > > 5. The Arduino and RAMPS kit in my opinion is awesome. It's > > >>> totally > > >>> > > > modular so rather than having one single board you can > replace > > >>> and > > >>> > > swap out > > >>> > > > pieces as you either decide to upgrade or manage to burn > > >>> something > > >>> > > out. > > >>> > > > There are some single board solutions in the works, and > they're > > >>> nice, > > >>> > > but > > >>> > > > for myself I just like the option to not have to buy a whole > new > > >>> > > everything > > >>> > > > when I inadvertently do something stupid that burns it all. > > >>> > > > 6. The bearings, you'll need 3 of them. This store is local > to > > >>> > > Memphis, > > >>> > > > and if you call in you can haggle with them about the price. > > >>> You can > > >>> > > likely > > >>> > > > get them as low as about $0.50 ea not including shipping. > If I > > >>> end up > > >>> > > > sending you any printed parts, I can pick them up local and > ship > > >>> them > > >>> > > with > > >>> > > > the printed stuff.
> > >>> > > > There are some other pieces that I'm missing from here, one > being > > >>> the > > >>> > > > motors. I'll have to track down where we got our motors from. > > >>> Other > > >>> > > than > > >>> > > > that there is the metal hardware, you can use a place called > > >>> Fastenal to > > >>> > > get > > >>> > > > what you need of that. You'll need all 5/16ths diameter 3x3ft > > >>> smooth > > >>> > > rods, > > >>> > > > and 4x3ft or 3x4ft thread-all. You'll also need a bag of > washers > > >>> and > > >>> > > bolts > > >>> > > > to go on the thread-all.
> > >>> > > > I'll try and find links for any other hardware that I've left > out > > >>> and get > > >>> > > > those posted.
> > >>> > > > Thanks,
> > >>> > > > Daniel H. > > >>> > > > Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > >>> > > > - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
> > >>> > > > On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM, Sam McClanahan < > > >>> samthegi...@gmail.com > > >>> > > >wrote:
> > >>> > > > > Dan,
> > >>> > > > > I would love to take you up on your offer of help. Who would > you > > >>> > > suggest > > >>> > > > > as a supplier for the non-printable components of a Prusa?
> > >>> > > > > - samthegiant -
> > >>> > > > > On Wed, Jun 29, 2011 at 1:48 PM, Dan Hess <dan9...@gmail.com
> > >>> wrote:
> > >>> > > > >> Yeah ABS smells terrible. PLA is a little more > temperamental > > >>> due to > > >>> > > > >> how sensitive it is for temperature, but I personally think > it's > > >>> much > > >>> > > > >> better.
> > >>> > > > >> Thanks,
> > >>> > > > >> Daniel H. > > >>> > > > >> Google Voice: (901) 214-5326
> > >>> > > > >> - Copying one is plagiarism, copying many is research.
