Tips & Tricks

[Stevan C.]

Here go the cool secrets of our beloved oscilloscopes ;-)

#1. To turn the back light off if doing excessive outdoor scoping
(with the accu pack-piggy back mod): make sure the R23 is "cut":
unsolder and replace with a switch.

#2. There is a way to make the scope able to capture in a range of
over 200V (beware:Electric shock hazard!) replace the cinch connector
with a BNC one. I found my BNC on an old ISA 10Mbps Ethernet card from
a ancient PC. The You simply use a x10 probe from a regular scope.
This is actually a officially supported mod, as the PCB has the needed
layout for a BNC jack already on. Kind thanks to JYE Tech for this.

[Stevan C.]

There where reports regarding the SIG trigger mode and the bailout:
In firmware 090 this is the documented procedure:

to enter:
1. select MODE and chose AUT
2. adjust a reasonable LEVEL
3. Select the desired slope (up or down)
4. Select the appropriate range
5. select the MODE to be SIG now
The scope will enter HOLD as soon as it detects a proper signal level.
The scope is in HOLD now.
You can select MODE to save the WF to a buffer
You can select SLOPE to display a saved capture back to screen
You can select LEVEL to initiate screenshot sending via the Xmodem
protocol.
You can select V.POS and change the trigger level to fall outside of
the signal range so the next OK can't trigger the scope back to HOLD.
As soon as ou of HOLD select the MODE to switch to an mode other than
SIG.

And that's it.

Please report if this was not helpful or clear enough?
:-)
Stevan C.

[Stevan C.]

In the previous message there was a mistake (=mybad)

This is an update for the "090" firmware version owners:

In case of going into SIG capture mode and having the trigger level
equal to "zero" level the scope will hang in the SIG mode indefinite
(both small triangles on the screen are at equal level)).

In any other case just select GND as the voltage level (GND//1V/0.1V
switch) and press OK to re-capture.

The scope cant generate a "trig" as long as the switch is in the GND
position.

As long as the scope is in SIG mode with no HOLD on display, it is
possible to change the mode by selecting MODE and changing the mode to
"AUT" or "NOR" with [+] or [-]

The new patched firmware 091 changes this.
"http://groups.google.com/group/jye-tech-oscilloscopes/browse_thread/
thread/4f2236705229482a?hl=en#"

[dav...@earthlink.net]

I guess this is a trick. I repackaged the oscilloscope in a 2U panel
that fits in my modular synthesizer. I rotated the PCB 90 degrees and
mounted the LCD separate from it. Details and photos on my site.

http://modularsynthesis.com/modules/DJB-019/djb019.htm

Dave

[Stevan C.]

This seem to be actually a mod
:-)

But it's really awesome!

I like it!
Stevan C.

[Stevan C.]

1. Besides using the RCA/scope probes mod allows for ready made bought
probes,
It also enhances the scopes bandwidth (BW) up to 150kHz instead of the
original hardly 100kHz with the included probes (+50% increase).
This all is in the "5Usec" range and slower

2. The 2Usec range is for "hunting" a decent race with "OK" ;-)

3. The included probes, however are great just below 1kHz.

three more from me
Stevan C.

[Stevan C.]

A. The buttons break when pushed too close to the switches
B. The buttons don't align with the holes:

1. Firstly just put the switches in position on the board (do not
solder)

2. put the caps on the switches lightly (do not press too deep)

3. screw the long brass nuts with the short brass supports so the shot
ones are on the switch side of the PCB

4. screw the front panel with the 3mm screws to the main board.

5. adjust the knob position, but have in mind that the knob can't be
moved arbitrary small wise, they tend to make step like "jumps" so try
hard to dose the push to get them to final position.

6. One You have all knobs "clicking", go and solder each switch's leg
while supporting it a little with the other hand (need three hands
here ;) ) so it has tight alignment with the PCB and is flush to it.

7. Once all switches are aligned with one pin, we make a pass with the
opposite pin so all hang tight now.

8. here from regular two-handed DIYers can go on easy on :). We don't
want to fry a switch, so we continue to solder one leg at a time all
switches in a pass ;). This makes sure they can handle the heat easy.

9. Hopefully all caps and switches are aligned well, since You
soldered them while they where assembled and aligned by the front
panel.

Best regards,
Stevan C.

[Wayne]

So far, I have built three of these 'scopes and have had the same
mechanical interfernce issue with the push button switches on all
three...

I have found a "fix" that has worked every time with little effort;

When installing the spacers for the front panel, place a 3mm flat
washer between the top spacer and the main PC Board on each
of the four spacers....

This releives the verticle interference and allows the switches to
move freely.

Hope this helps,

Wayne O.

[SM Ling]

> So far, I have built three of these 'scopes and have had the same
> mechanical interfernce issue with the push button switches on all
> three...

All three for your own consumption? I got one, and am thinking hard
of justification to get more. Help me. :-)

Ling SM