Camera Tripod and Table Top tripot
Kwan
TIA
Kwan
Kwan
Seagull
(aluminium vs. carbon fiber). no-name brand costs around rm100 - rm300.
well-known tripod makers' products like manfrotto and gitzo cost more than
that.
"Kwan" <ckk...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:df57e84d.02071...@posting.google.com...
Moat
for manfrotto try www.engtong.com else add .my or look for their url from
manfrotto website
ask them to quote specific model u r interested in
when u go there n actually buy it they will give u a 10-20% discount
depending on how much stuff u buy
"Seagull" <che...@pd.jaring.my> wrote in message
news:agj14o$pcl$1...@news6.jaring.my...
Seagull
to deal with ;)
as far as i know, only engtong carries manfrotto tripods. it's kinda hard to
find a manfrotto in other photographic stores. most of them carry some
lower-end stuff like slik, sakure...
you can also request a full set of manfrotto product catalogues from
engtong. i got mine through snail-mail. yes, 20% discount, but it was only
for dealers.
"Moat" <ang...@pd.jaring.my> wrote in message
news:agk0p6$b34$3...@news5.jaring.my...
Moat
"Seagull" <sea...@pl.jaring.my> wrote in message
news:agm5o0$12i$1...@news4.jaring.my...
> doesn't bother to look for the cpu in a conventional nikon, too
complicated
> to deal with ;)
any idea s 2 how 2 o/c it? so that maybe i can er... get a higher F.P.S?
> as far as i know, only engtong carries manfrotto tripods. it's kinda hard
to
> find a manfrotto in other photographic stores. most of them carry some
> lower-end stuff like slik, sakure...
saw them in other store but normally with limited model and way overpriced
engtong have everything from manfrotto (they can order it if its not in
stock)
anyway, i think they r cheapest around for quality stuff
> you can also request a full set of manfrotto product catalogues from
> engtong. i got mine through snail-mail. yes, 20% discount, but it was only
> for dealers.
'm not a dealer but i get iinm 15% discount when i bought a tripod n head at
the same time
20% when i return to them for the next time to buy more stuff
anyway i got a better deal buying a used manfrotto, they r well built that i
wont worry buying a used unit (its like a computer casing, nothing to break
ma :)
Seagull
> any idea s 2 how 2 o/c it? so that maybe i can er... get a higher F.P.S?
o/c a conventional camera ?! unless u change the motor drive, put in extra
batteries...it has nothing to do with the cpu inside, which takes care of
the electronic functions and exposure database.
> saw them in other store but normally with limited model and way overpriced
> engtong have everything from manfrotto (they can order it if its not in
> stock) anyway, i think they r cheapest around for quality stuff
yupe. i got the cheapest manfrotto around rm270. i find that it's still way
better than slik/velbron in the same price range.
> 'm not a dealer but i get iinm 15% discount when i bought a tripod n head
at
> the same time 20% when i return to them for the next time to buy more
stuff
have never visited the outlet in ss2 personally. a friend of mine ordered my
tripod from one of their salemen and got it sent 400 km all the way to my
place. no extra charges ;)
> anyway i got a better deal buying a used manfrotto, they r well built that
i
> wont worry buying a used unit (its like a computer casing, nothing to
break
> ma :)
is a used one half the price of a new one? if so, it's really a best buy.
usually they don't crack so easily like those plastic-feel tripods.
Moat
> o/c a conventional camera ?! unless u change the motor drive, put in extra
> batteries...it has nothing to do with the cpu inside, which takes care of
> the electronic functions and exposure database.
DAMN!!! i thought i can o/c it by increasing the voltage or something, what
'm i going to do with all those oversized heatsink??? ;)
> yupe. i got the cheapest manfrotto around rm270. i find that it's still
way
> better than slik/velbron in the same price range.
> have never visited the outlet in ss2 personally. a friend of mine ordered
my
> tripod from one of their salemen and got it sent 400 km all the way to my
> place. no extra charges ;)
that is where the 20% goes (if u pay cash u get another 3% discount :)
> is a used one half the price of a new one? if so, it's really a best buy.
> usually they don't crack so easily like those plastic-feel tripods.
depend on condition maaaa, i got a good condition 455b for rm300(owner claim
he win it from a photo contest)
i also have a 190b (bought brand new from engtong) but still looking for a
beat up 2nd hand of either model (i want to shorten the leg to make it even
more portable)
Seagull
> DAMN!!! i thought i can o/c it by increasing the voltage or something,
what
> 'm i going to do with all those oversized heatsink??? ;)
stick the heatsink to the flash head. it's the only part that gets hot.
> that is where the 20% goes (if u pay cash u get another 3% discount :)
i don't mind the extra 3% discount since i got 20% discount and a free
shoulder bag for me to carry the tripod and free delivery for 400km.
> depend on condition maaaa, i got a good condition 455b for rm300(owner
claim
> he win it from a photo contest)
what is 455b ? i couldn't find it in the catalogue. or 055b that u mean ?
> i also have a 190b (bought brand new from engtong) but still looking for a
> beat up 2nd hand of either model (i want to shorten the leg to make it
even
> more portable)
190 is already short, light enough and yet u want it shorter ?! i find that
its operating level (extending all the 3 sections) without extending the
center column reaches only my neck level. not so comfortable to work with.
Moat
> stick the heatsink to the flash head. it's the only part that gets hot.
how many stop will i gain? ;)
> what is 455b ? i couldn't find it in the catalogue. or 055b that u mean ?
its not in the current catalog (this is before manfrotto have a flat out
leg,triangular centre column and newer type leg latch)
but yes it can do the horizontal mounting of the centre column like 055pro
> 190 is already short, light enough and yet u want it shorter ?! i find
that
thats why i'm not cutting my current 190, i just need something smaller to
attach compactly to my camera bag (i also have their table top tripod but
its not so stable if used with the extension)
> its operating level (extending all the 3 sections) without extending the
> center column reaches only my neck level. not so comfortable to work with.
actually i prefer my bigger 455, the 190 is not so stable if fully extended
(hmmmm if i can get a cheap 055series leg for really cheap maybe i'll cut
them to 190 size n my current 190 to even shorter :)
btw, r u a pro? me? i'm just a gadget freak (same goes for computer :)
Seagull
> how many stop will i gain? ;)
u won't like the extra stop, if there is any. it makes ur subject looks like
a ghost.
> actually i prefer my bigger 455, the 190 is not so stable if fully
extended
> (hmmmm if i can get a cheap 055series leg for really cheap maybe i'll cut
> them to 190 size n my current 190 to even shorter :)
u r the first one who cut a tripod to a smaller size :0 btw, the surveying
tripod used by constructors is more stable than any manfrotto available. now
if u could modify it into something...
> btw, r u a pro? me? i'm just a gadget freak (same goes for computer :)
don't have the luxury to be a gadget freak of any. then again am not
shooting for a living. it's just my hobby, picking up as i'm going.
what do u shoot most? heatsink ? ;) hmm..perhaps we should start a new one -
jaring.photography (digital + tranditional). i'm pretty sure there are many
people out there who have much better ideas.
Moat
> u won't like the extra stop, if there is any. it makes ur subject looks
like
> a ghost.
er... out of idea already to keep this thread on topic for pc base :(
> u r the first one who cut a tripod to a smaller size :0
actually no, there r even website out there teaching how to shorten those
manfrotto
> btw, the surveying
> tripod used by constructors is more stable than any manfrotto available.
now
> if u could modify it into something...
would be glad to buy one if u can sell them cheaply to me (to be used
indoors only)
> what do u shoot most? heatsink ? ;)
actually yes :)
my most used camera is a digital oly c1 that i carry everywhere and used to
take everything from friends at work (ppl photography, damn hard with this
auto everything camera), to taking newspaper photos for record
(advertisement,cheap sale,etc. - used to tear off newspaper, now my camera
even replace my palm to take note)
when i actually go out and take photos it will be mostly close up of flowers
and macro stuff
and nowdays i'm reading/learning heavily into potrait photography and
product photography, also interested in ppl photography but i'm a shy guy n
it really is hard to do it.
> hmm..perhaps we should start a new one -
> jaring.photography (digital + tranditional). i'm pretty sure there are
many
> people out there who have much better ideas.
hmmm i dunno
i'm out of energy nowdays, last time used to contribute a lot in this pc
base but nowdays 'm tireddddd
good day :)
Seagull
> er... out of idea already to keep this thread on topic for pc base :(
should stop then ;)
> would be glad to buy one if u can sell them cheaply to me (to be used
> indoors only)
no. i don't have one. i just don't need such a hardcore setting. i also have
no access to construction work :(
> actually yes :)
> my most used camera is a digital oly c1 that i carry everywhere and used
to
> take everything from friends at work (ppl photography, damn hard with this
> auto everything camera), to taking newspaper photos for record
> (advertisement,cheap sale,etc. - used to tear off newspaper, now my camera
> even replace my palm to take note)
> when i actually go out and take photos it will be mostly close up of
flowers
> and macro stuff
> and nowdays i'm reading/learning heavily into potrait photography and
> product photography, also interested in ppl photography but i'm a shy guy
n
> it really is hard to do it.
i do some available light indoor-macro too, with a 50mm f1.4 and a +4
diopter. it's a lot of fun. sometimes studio portrait (boring! u know those
passport-size head pictures...it would be a history very soon, digital
processing is taking over slowly), social pics, landscapes on a short trip.
i wanna do available light portrait too but seldom have the chance (was
inpired by a national geographic photographer - steve mccurry. he took the
portrait of an aghan girl 17 years ago and took it again as the cover pic in
april issue of national geographic magazine. the woman is shabat gula. she
looked astonishing, especially her eyes, full of story as a refugee 17 years
ago.) people stare at me like i'm some kinda animal when i lug a 5-foot
tripod and a slr around. not so comfortable like u said.
have a nice day and happy shooting.
Ahmad Sayuthi
> i'm out of energy nowdays, last time used to contribute a lot in
> this pc base but nowdays 'm tireddddd
One thing that I have to say about Moat: He's one really helpful guy at
pcbase... always providing tons of useful tips and info, especially
when they're on hardware and gadgets. Good work, Moat!
--
icq23582...@time.net.myasayuthi@softhome.net
alphaque.com star-techcentral.com 17040pasir mas, kelantan
Moat
"Ahmad Sayuthi" <say...@myrealbox.com> wrote in message
news:Xns924CC05...@130.133.1.4...
thanks ahmad
:)
Moat
> should stop then ;)
hehehe
> i do some available light indoor-macro too, with a 50mm f1.4 and a +4
> diopter. it's a lot of fun.
wohooooo, exotic lens
ever tried a tilt/shift setup? they r even more fun (not necessarily better
photos :)
> sometimes studio portrait (boring! u know those
> passport-size head pictures...it would be a history very soon, digital
> processing is taking over slowly)
i'm mostly shooting digital nowdays, got frustrated with photoshop always
compensating my work and inconsistent output, i still have an old mechanical
film camera though, very nice to play around with :)
> , social pics, landscapes on a short trip.
sadly i hardly find a nice landscape to take photos (unless i'm willing to
wake up very early to catch the sunrise)
> i wanna do available light portrait too but seldom have the chance (was
just keep on shooting and u'll get it :), i'm practising on friends at work,
nowdays they just ignore me or actually pose for me (initially they always
turn away)
> inpired by a national geographic photographer - steve mccurry. he took the
> portrait of an aghan girl 17 years ago and took it again as the cover pic
in
> april issue of national geographic magazine. the woman is shabat gula. she
> looked astonishing, especially her eyes, full of story as a refugee 17
years
> ago.)
i know abt this (its mentioned all over r.p.35mm),nice huh
but if u shoot as much as him u'll have something exceptional also (fwiw
iinm that photos is taken by chance)
also heard of this other street/ppl photographer that shoot a lot (few roll
daily, cant remember exactly). even after his death, lots of his negative
still havent been developed, such is their dedication
last time with film camera i shoot abt 1 roll per month, now with digital i
shoot abt 10 photos daily and 1 roll per year (for hari raya photos :)
> people stare at me like i'm some kinda animal when i lug a 5-foot
> tripod and a slr around. not so comfortable like u said.
u have a fast lens, why not buy a faster film and shoot them handheld? btw
that steve kari guy have a weird way of holding his camera huh? (see it
during that documentary abt finding that gula girl :)
my dream camera would be something like my nikon fe2 (or leica with all
manual control) but using ccd instead of film.
my small digital is too slow and fully auto, and the 1 with manual control
is too big, hmmmm such is life
...and the dream camera should be powered by at least a pentium 4 with
bluetooth/gsm connection to transfer all my photos in realtime to my pc at
home and backed up at another secure datacentre :))))))))))
good day
Seagull
> wohooooo, exotic lens
> ever tried a tilt/shift setup? they r even more fun (not necessarily
better
> photos :)
tilt/shift for macro ? or u mean the bellow setup ? normally a tilt/shift
(also known as PC - perspective correction) len is for shooting tall
building, to keep the image parallel to the film plane. especially useful if
travel to europe.
> i'm mostly shooting digital nowdays, got frustrated with photoshop always
> compensating my work and inconsistent output, i still have an old
mechanical
> film camera though, very nice to play around with :)
absolutely right. it depends how well we know the printing operator. and
there are lots of factors that affect the output - paper, chemical,
temperature, film type. a slight bias in a small part is enough to turn a
pic into different mood. the only way to get full control is shooting slide,
what u see is what u get. i think i shall buy a film scanner and manipulate
the pics using photoshop. investing in a digital slr is not worth the money
right now. the price/performance factor changes too fast. the money spent in
a digital slr could buy myself some good used lens. hmm...digital or film,
either way is gonna cost lots of money. now it's more practical to think how
to make lots of money for those luxurious items.
> i know abt this (its mentioned all over r.p.35mm),nice huh
> but if u shoot as much as him u'll have something exceptional also (fwiw
> iinm that photos is taken by chance)
> also heard of this other street/ppl photographer that shoot a lot (few
roll
> daily, cant remember exactly). even after his death, lots of his negative
> still havent been developed, such is their dedication
> last time with film camera i shoot abt 1 roll per month, now with digital
i
> shoot abt 10 photos daily and 1 roll per year (for hari raya photos :)
he took new york street photography. i've forgotten his name too. let's get
back to reality. i can't afford to spend three rolls of developing +
printing cost EVERYday. if kodak or fuji sponsored me, it would be a
different story. it would sound great too if i could sell my pics at 500
buck a piece, but in reality it's the opposite. there is no chance for me
to be another henri cartier bresson.
> u have a fast lens, why not buy a faster film and shoot them handheld? btw
> that steve kari guy have a weird way of holding his camera huh? (see it
> during that documentary abt finding that gula girl :)
> my dream camera would be something like my nikon fe2 (or leica with all
> manual control) but using ccd instead of film.
> my small digital is too slow and fully auto, and the 1 with manual control
> is too big, hmmmm such is life
sometimes i try to be a wannabee purist, shoot only iso 100 film (can't get
iso 50 here) with slow shutter speed. most of the time i shoot people at
night. i like night scene. i was taking pictures of friends outside coffee
bean, very dark even though there was tungsten lighting. i used iso 400,
shoot wide open f1.4 at 1/60 (1/60 to avoid hand-shaking using a 50mm
nikkor), the meter still showed underexposure several stops. i left my nikon
SB-24 speedlight in home. anyway i hate flash because it spoils the mood. it
was the right time to use a tripod but i didn't bring the damn thing. i
asked the lab operator to print them darker (add density), they came out
nice only in the night scene with tungsten lighting, friends' faces become
blur dark shadow with almost no details. tripod is useful. to take good
sharp picture, a tripod should be put in the highest priority, then comes
whatever-len.
how did steve kari hold his camera ? i didn't watch the documentary. this is
the weird way of stable handheld: tie a long string (able to stretch) to a
screw and then screw it into the tripod socket. adjust the length until it
reaches the height u want then use ur leg to step on the string. now stretch
the string while holding the camera until it's tight enough. this way would
make it more stable. instead of applying pressure down the monopod to
stabilize the camera, it works exactly the opposite.
leica is a legend. if leica is to be digitized, then it doesn't feel like
leica anymore. i'm talking about leica rangefinder M. this is a piece of
classical equipment that reflects the wonderful world in leica. many
photojournalists had created meaningful priceless BW pictures during world
war using just a 50mm rangefinder. i think leica should be put where it is.
if i wanted digital, i would choose canon or nikon.
nothing beats the hell out of the sharpness and contrast that a leica len
has. carl zeiss comes close. my sister complained her loud-and-clear pimples
caught by a yashica (carl zeiss len f3.5)
automatic-everything-point-and-shoot my dad bought 10 years ago. now it has
stopped working. yashica still makes carl zeiss len P&S iinm( yashica T4 &
T5). instead of buying another yashica, we bought an olympus mju-I (f3.5)
and then another olympus mju-II (f2.8) when it was available. both are
great, especially mju-II when i need one more extra stop. olympus mju zooms
are pretty crappy.
> ...and the dream camera should be powered by at least a pentium 4 with
> bluetooth/gsm connection to transfer all my photos in realtime to my pc at
> home and backed up at another secure datacentre :))))))))))
perfect, but i still want a leica M + 50mm noctilux. ;)
Moat
> tilt/shift for macro ?
maybe, but for now i just use it for learning/fun
when i started photography i'm alone n no access to internet, thus learning
everything on my own, and having a cheap consumer lens dun help (small max
aperture means shallow depth of field is non existance)
now with the tilt/shift i can control the depth of field and what is in and
out of focus, nice
> or u mean the bellow setup ? normally a tilt/shift
mine is a 2nd hand bellow setup with view camera movement that can be
attached to most slr via adaptor
> (also known as PC - perspective correction) len is for shooting tall
> building, to keep the image parallel to the film plane. especially useful
if
> travel to europe.
my setup is bulky n not practical for travel use
havent use it for perspective control, just playing with depth of field
it would be nice to own a 24mm t/s lens for general use and 90mm t/s for
portrait (ppl photos with very selective focusing) heheheeh too bad i cant
afford them
> absolutely right. it depends how well we know the printing operator. and
so do u develope your own film/slide? or know a consistent photo lab? was
thinking of developing my own b&w stuff but i dun think i can afford the
gear or time thus abandon it
> pic into different mood. the only way to get full control is shooting
slide,
even shooting slide is not convenient, not many shop sell slide and took
long time to process
> what u see is what u get. i think i shall buy a film scanner and
manipulate
> the pics using photoshop.
heheh just prepare to spend some time learning to get thing done properly
its very time consuming
> investing in a digital slr is not worth the money
> right now. the price/performance factor changes too fast. the money spent
in
> a digital slr could buy myself some good used lens.
problem with digital is the initial investment is huge (luckily my computer
system is quite ok when i get into it)
but later, it cost u almost nothing to take photos
easier to learn too (abt photography, not the camera due to the instant
feedback)
> hmm...digital or film,
> either way is gonna cost lots of money. now it's more practical to think
how
> to make lots of money for those luxurious items.
of course
but why not spoil yourself after all those hard work :)
> he took new york street photography. i've forgotten his name too. let's
get
> back to reality. i can't afford to spend three rolls of developing +
with digital u can :)
> different story. it would sound great too if i could sell my pics at 500
> buck a piece, but in reality it's the opposite.
dunno abt u but for me, when things that give me pleasure turn into work its
no longer fun
it would be nice to make money making photos though :)
> there is no chance for me
> to be another henri cartier bresson.
have u tried? :)
> sometimes i try to be a wannabee purist,
since when purist use iso 100 only???
> shoot only iso 100 film (can't get iso 50 here)
isnt velvia = iso 50? and avilable
> with slow shutter speed. most of the time i shoot people at
> night. i like night scene. i was taking pictures of friends outside coffee
> bean, very dark even though there was tungsten lighting. i used iso 400,
> shoot wide open f1.4 at 1/60 (1/60 to avoid hand-shaking using a 50mm
> nikkor), the meter still showed underexposure several stops.
with my digital point n shoot (no miror slap) i can shoot down to 1/15 with
acceptable blur (not so nice but better than with flash).
hey, why not shoot faster B&W film?
> i left my nikon
> SB-24 speedlight in home. anyway i hate flash because it spoils the mood.
it
of course, but sometime i simply need to use it instead of no photos at all
> was the right time to use a tripod but i didn't bring the damn thing. i
> asked the lab operator to print them darker (add density), they came out
its good to have a nice photo lab, good 4 u :)
> sharp picture, a tripod should be put in the highest priority, then comes
> whatever-len.
or we can learn the proper technique, i used to have a camera shake even at
1/90
> how did steve kari hold his camera ? i didn't watch the documentary. this
is
hmmm, its easier to demo than to describe in word
basically *i think* he have some sort of handle attached to the tripod
socket (making the camera like a kipas tangan)
he use his right hand to hold this handle close to his chest (imgine closing
your face with a kipas)
and he use his left arm to trigger the shutter button (so his arm is
crossed)
hahaha hope that make sense :)
> the weird way of stable handheld: tie a long string (able to stretch) to a
> screw and then screw it into the tripod socket. adjust the length until
it
i think that method is as troublesome as using a tripod(but without the
hassle of carrying it), should only be used in an emergency
> leica is a legend. if leica is to be digitized, then it doesn't feel like
i dun care abt brand, i just want a digital rangefinder
> leica anymore. i'm talking about leica rangefinder M. this is a piece of
> classical equipment that reflects the wonderful world in leica. many
sadly some collector make this fine piece of photographic equipment way
overpriced
> photojournalists had created meaningful priceless BW pictures during world
> war using just a 50mm rangefinder.
from what i read that is before slr exist, once slr is born those war
photographer turn to those slr instead
> i think leica should be put where it is.
> if i wanted digital, i would choose canon or nikon.
i think my word is not right, what i want is just a digital camera with
manual slr or rangefinder control/size, brand doesnt matter as long as it
works
> stopped working. yashica still makes carl zeiss len P&S iinm( yashica T4 &
> T5).
t5 is the replacement for t4, but i heard t5 is also being discontinued
> instead of buying another yashica, we bought an olympus mju-I (f3.5)
> and then another olympus mju-II (f2.8) when it was available. both are
> great, especially mju-II when i need one more extra stop.
my digital PnS is something like this, though much more primitive
> olympus mju zooms are pretty crappy.
well, only those super expensive f2.8 pro zoom offer superb quality at super
expensive price :)
> > ...and the dream camera should be powered by at least a pentium 4 with
> > bluetooth/gsm connection to transfer all my photos in realtime to my pc
at
> > home and backed up at another secure datacentre :))))))))))
>
> perfect, but i still want a leica M + 50mm noctilux. ;)
hahahaha, that was just to keep this post in topic actually
btw, have u heard of voightlander bessa series? they r cheap and their lens
r good, though u can use leica ltm or m mount lenses depending on which
model if u want to (someday i'll get one for wide angle use, their 21mm n
15mm is affordable, their L body is dirt cheap)
Seagull
>
> mine is a 2nd hand bellow setup with view camera movement that can be
> attached to most slr via adaptor
with this kinda bellow setup too, my dad used it to re-shoot slide to
negative.
> my setup is bulky n not practical for travel use
> havent use it for perspective control, just playing with depth of field
> it would be nice to own a 24mm t/s lens for general use and 90mm t/s for
> portrait (ppl photos with very selective focusing) heheheeh too bad i cant
> afford them
i think the tilt/shift u r talking about is different. the tilt/shift/PC
i've read is just a len with built-in perspective correction control. it
doesn't require any bellow.
> so do u develope your own film/slide? or know a consistent photo lab? was
> thinking of developing my own b&w stuff but i dun think i can afford the
> gear or time thus abandon it
actually yes. my dad runs a lab business so i can access to the resources
easily. honestly speaking, it all depends on our effort in quality control.
cost/price is a factor here. our main income is from low-mid class market
because that is what the majority could spend in the town. business is
freaking hard. very competitive. so if u expect pro-quality/service ( i mean
real pro ) from a minilab, u would be very disappointed.
i had developed b/w years ago, but only IC-size portrait from 120 negative.
since the jabatan pendaftaran has turned to digital-on-the-spot, we
abandoned the wet-darkroom. there is another dry-darkroom with an enlarger
but it's doing color.
building a b/w darkroom should not be expensive. the most expensive stuff is
an enlarger if u need one. my dad built one himself. setup was pretty
simple.
> even shooting slide is not convenient, not many shop sell slide and took
> long time to process
if the outlet has a slide processor and mounting device, it should be
completed in just two hour (assume the business is not so busy). slide has
nothing to adjust (unless pull/push processing). it should be fast. yes,
most labs sell only consumer-grade negative films.
> of course
> but why not spoil yourself after all those hard work :)
yes, but money is always not enough ;(
> it would be nice to make money making photos though :)
be a product/fashion photographer, shoot landscapes for postcard companies,
sells stock images. don't meantion about national geographic photographers,
they don't have a life ;)
> > there is no chance for me
> > to be another henri cartier bresson.
>
> have u tried? :)
no. because i don't have such kinda determination ;(
> since when purist use iso 100 only???
> isnt velvia = iso 50? and avilable
iso 100 is the lowest iso i can get here, so it's the purest film i could
have. professional films are available but hard to get. expensive if it's
not bought in bulk. malaysia is generally not a pro market. so the pro-grade
films *could be* experiencing chemical shift/degrade/expired even before
reaching a lab. the box looks new but u never know. most labs don't
buy/don't refrigerate pro-films. almost no one asks for it.
> hey, why not shoot faster B&W film?
i shall try a few rolls c-41 b/w. all i can get now is consumer-grade
negative.
> its good to have a nice photo lab, good 4 u :)
because i'm his son ;)) if not, who gives a damn ? but if u r a regular
customer, i'm pretty sure any lab would give u friendly and quality
services. that is business.
> and he use his left arm to trigger the shutter button (so his arm is
> crossed) hahaha hope that make sense :)
stunt man ;)
> sadly some collector make this fine piece of photographic equipment way
> overpriced
yupe. for the price of a set of leica system, anyone could buy a complete
medium format and blow 35mm away !
> from what i read that is before slr exist, once slr is born those war
> photographer turn to those slr instead
that time nikon/canon was starting to build their slr empires. japanese slr
is affordable and the optics are not necessarily inferior than german
optics.
> t5 is the replacement for t4, but i heard t5 is also being discontinued
so there is no more carl zeiss P&S ? i think manufacturers have switched
carl zeiss len to their digital line.
> well, only those super expensive f2.8 pro zoom offer superb quality at
super
> expensive price :)
yeah. 80-200 f2.8 portrait zoom - super sharp and renders nice bokeh. 85mm
f1.8 is among the best too although it's a prime and much cheaper. that gula
girl was shoot with a 85mm f1.8 handheld + available light.
> hahahaha, that was just to keep this post in topic actually
incidentally, leica has made its first digilux, co-op with panasonic.
> btw, have u heard of voightlander bessa series? they r cheap and their
lens
> r good, though u can use leica ltm or m mount lenses depending on which
> model if u want to (someday i'll get one for wide angle use, their 21mm n
> 15mm is affordable, their L body is dirt cheap)
yupe, but not familiar. shall take notice of that next time. i have another
nikkor 24mm f2.8 which is not as good as 50mm f1.4 optically.
Moat
> i think the tilt/shift u r talking about is different. the tilt/shift/PC
> i've read is just a len with built-in perspective correction control. it
> doesn't require any bellow.
its different but it accomplish the same thing
with view camera all those movement (tilt + shift) is a typical feature
mine is a view camera converter to be used with a 35mm body and large format
lens (for the coverage)
pc lens is an even compact version of this (without bellow, the movement is
built into the metal bodies of the lens) but the coverage angle is even more
limited (nikon pc lens only have tilt, no shift, canon t/se or something
like that have both)
> freaking hard. very competitive. so if u expect pro-quality/service ( i
mean
> real pro ) from a minilab, u would be very disappointed.
actually all i need is for them to have an option of not adjusting anything
during the printing process (kind of like shooting slide), hows that for
maybe rm1 extra for flipping the compensation switch off? anyway some shop
is simply very bad that the photos is out of focus that at one time my
friend thought his camera is faulty
> i had developed b/w years ago, but only IC-size portrait from 120
negative.
> since the jabatan pendaftaran has turned to digital-on-the-spot, we
a photo shop near my house is using a low end digital camera with a dyesub
printer for this purpose, but those big negs is much superior :), rare
species, 1 shop at my hometown still do it that way
> building a b/w darkroom should not be expensive. the most expensive stuff
is
> an enlarger if u need one. my dad built one himself. setup was pretty
> simple.
of course, but time is expensive(for learning too) and those chemical has
life, i\m an unorganised person, i do thing when i feel like doing it
> if the outlet has a slide processor and mounting device, it should be
> completed in just two hour (assume the business is not so busy). slide has
most normal photoshop (fotokem.etc.) quote a few days, i think they send it
out instead of doing it it that outlet
> nothing to adjust (unless pull/push processing). it should be fast. yes,
might do it myself if i do medium/large format much much later (no more
serious 35mm for me, digital will do that)
> most labs sell only consumer-grade negative films.
yup, not their faults, they just sell what ppl buy
> be a product/fashion photographer, shoot landscapes for postcard
companies,
that really sound stressfull = no fun :)
> sells stock images. don't meantion about national geographic
photographers,
> they don't have a life ;)
but that is their life :)
> > > there is no chance for me
> > > to be another henri cartier bresson.
> > have u tried? :)
> no. because i don't have such kinda determination ;(
basically that is the problem with us all, else we can be whatever we want
:)
> iso 100 is the lowest iso i can get here, so it's the purest film i could
> have. professional films are available but hard to get. expensive if it's
your dad own a lab, cant he order them for u at good price?
> reaching a lab. the box looks new but u never know. most labs don't
> buy/don't refrigerate pro-films. almost no one asks for it.
the 2nd hand shop at shaw parade is refrigerating their film iinm
> i shall try a few rolls c-41 b/w. all i can get now is consumer-grade
> negative.
this 1 is processed in a normal color machine right? i was quoted double the
price for it compared to color, that is crazy
> because i'm his son ;)) if not, who gives a damn ? but if u r a regular
> customer, i'm pretty sure any lab would give u friendly and quality
> services. that is business.
of course, but digital is cheaper n more convenient
u get the slide (unprocessed image), burn/dodge/B&W/etc (photoshop) and if u
want it printed, just send them to the shop
> yupe. for the price of a set of leica system, anyone could buy a complete
> medium format and blow 35mm away !
but it wont be as quiet or small as leica :)
imagine using a hasselblad or the oversized pentax slr for street
photography
> yeah. 80-200 f2.8 portrait zoom - super sharp and renders nice bokeh. 85mm
> f1.8 is among the best too although it's a prime and much cheaper. that
gula
> girl was shoot with a 85mm f1.8 handheld + available light.
hehe i'm looking to buy a 105mm f2.5 nikkor ais for 2-300rm :)
they r said 2 be legendary for portrait use (2nd hand marketprice is abt
6-800 but i have seen it being offered at rm250 but 'm not fast enough)
> incidentally, leica has made its first digilux, co-op with panasonic.
well, last time they just rebrand fuji small digicam
now they actually doing a coop
cant wait for a m digital :)
> yupe, but not familiar. shall take notice of that next time. i have
another
> nikkor 24mm f2.8 which is not as good as 50mm f1.4 optically.
i'm looking to buy a 24mm too but looking for a cheap 2nd hand one
havent use them but it should be nice for street photos
only have a 50mm 1.8 and canon 75-300ef currently but intend to get a
24mm,105mm and maybe 30mm later for gp use
my most used digital ia 35mm, the other have zoom from 35 to abt 140mm,
luckily with digital their lens is pretty fast
bye 4 now
wont be able to respond to your reply till next week (i'm going balik
kampung till weekend)
Seagull
> with view camera all those movement (tilt + shift) is a typical feature
> mine is a view camera converter to be used with a 35mm body and large
format
> lens (for the coverage)
i see. i've never tried a real view camera. is that a real big box requires
ur head to be covered by a piece of cloth? the biggest one i operated was a
mamiya rb67 for b/w. it's already too big and heavy.
> actually all i need is for them to have an option of not adjusting
anything
> during the printing process (kind of like shooting slide), hows that for
> maybe rm1 extra for flipping the compensation switch off?
u've been ripped off if they want extra charges. just tell them "normal
printing with no change in density". u might not get constant colors because
every lab has its own color balance or channel. the real trouble is setting
up a specific channel (color compensation) for specific films like pro-grade
one. mini lab usually uses existing channels for consumer films. so u won't
go wrong if u shoot typical film like kodak gold/max fuji superia konica
centuria because every lab knows them. if u shoot superia reala/nps/npc,
kodak portra/supra, c41 b/w and even agfa HDC (consumer film) then u r
asking for trouble in a mini lab. some labs don't even care to compensate
them, so u get prints with cyan bias or magenta bias. if u shoot negatives
next time, bring them to a lab with newer digital system like kodak noritsu
or fuji frontier. they r more consistent than old manual printer.
> a photo shop near my house is using a low end digital camera with a dyesub
> printer for this purpose, but those big negs is much superior
the bigger the negative, the better the print quality, especially noticeable
if doing big enlargement. a typical 35mm negative/slide has about 12-million
pixels iinm. it's just that the photographic paper couldn't capture such
details.
> your dad own a lab, cant he order them for u at good price?
good price only if order in bulk, but i only use a few rolls. so it's not
worth.
> this 1 is processed in a normal color machine right? i was quoted double
the
> price for it compared to color, that is crazy
c41 is normal negative processing. c41 b/w film is expensive. developing is
the same price. but printing is a bit difficult because of the color
channel. a lab operator needs extra time to test print and then adjust the
colors. it's hard to get real b/w in color paper, normally it appears a bit
blue or sepia tone. double the price is too much !
> of course, but digital is cheaper n more convenient
> u get the slide (unprocessed image), burn/dodge/B&W/etc (photoshop) and if
u
> want it printed, just send them to the shop
yeah. digital is magic, especially photoshop manipulation ;) in traditional
darkroom one needs to know every single bit of technical spec in order to
produce a perfect exposure. generally one needs to study ansel adam's "The
Negative" to understand zone system. expose for the shadow, develop for the
highlight. in digital darkroom, one can perform blended exposure in just a
few steps. digital has a big advantage here.
> but it wont be as quiet or small as leica :)
> imagine using a hasselblad or the oversized pentax slr for street
> photography
leica has the advantage in shooting street photography but medium format is
generally for portrait and landscape. fine grain enlargement is something
that 35mm can't produce.
> hehe i'm looking to buy a 105mm f2.5 nikkor ais for 2-300rm :)
> they r said 2 be legendary for portrait use (2nd hand marketprice is abt
> 6-800 but i have seen it being offered at rm250 but 'm not fast enough)
good luck in hunting one. have u looked at ebay ? there r lots of used
photographics stuff.
> well, last time they just rebrand fuji small digicam
> now they actually doing a coop
> cant wait for a m digital :)
panasonic has announced another 1+mp DV cam with leica len. u should start
saving more ;)
> i'm looking to buy a 24mm too but looking for a cheap 2nd hand one
i don't like 24mm in shooting street people. they look short and fat due to
distortion. but its DOF is deep enough.
> bye 4 now
> wont be able to respond to your reply till next week (i'm going balik
> kampung till weekend)
all right. have a nice trip ;)
Moat
> i see. i've never tried a real view camera. is that a real big box
> requires ur head to be covered by a piece of cloth?
so am i, but the setup i have looks like the front part of a view camera,
the back portion (where film is loaded in a real view camera) is mounted
into a normal slr via adaptor
> just tell them "normal
> printing with no change in density".
hahahaha some of the sales girl dun even know what is a slide film, u think
they can understand that ah? no offence intended to anyone
> every lab has its own color balance or channel. the real trouble is
> setting up a specific channel (color compensation) for specific films like
pro-grade one. mini lab usually uses existing channels for consumer films.
.......
exactly why i went digital
now when i screw up the photos its my faults :)
> the bigger the negative, the better the print quality, especially
> noticeable if doing big enlargement. a typical 35mm negative/slide has
once i saw medium format slide on display (1 full roll) nice
wonder how nice it would be to look at a large format slide :)
> channel. a lab operator needs extra time to test print and then adjust the
> colors. it's hard to get real b/w in color paper, normally it appears a
bit
> blue or sepia tone. double the price is too much !
that color shift is expected, but like u said, double is too much
> yeah. digital is magic, especially photoshop manipulation ;) in
> traditional darkroom one needs to know every single bit of technical spec
in order to
hehe, no harmfull chemical too and of course there is always the undo button
> produce a perfect exposure. generally one needs to study ansel adam's "The
> Negative" to understand zone system. expose for the shadow, develop for
the
have u read that book? i want to learn some darkroom technique then transfer
it to photoshop (well, most PS tool is based on real darkroom), do u think
it would be usefull? (i can check it out due not avilable locally, need to
blindly mail order it)
> highlight. in digital darkroom, one can perform blended exposure in just a
> few steps. digital has a big advantage here.
> leica has the advantage in shooting street photography but medium format
> generally for portrait and landscape. fine grain enlargement is something
> that 35mm can't produce.
from www.photo.net there is a link to this woman shooting portrait using a
huge (A3??) polaraid camera :)
> good luck in hunting one. have u looked at ebay ? there r lots of used
> photographics stuff.
i have mailorder stuff a lot but never from e-bay
lazy to do the research on every seller
> panasonic has announced another 1+mp DV cam with leica len. u should start
> saving more ;)
i think its in the market already and i think its a crap (is it the one
using SD as storage?)
> i don't like 24mm in shooting street people. they look short and fat due
> to distortion. but its DOF is deep enough.
sell it to me CHEAPLY!!! heheheh
try to learn to use that distortion to your advantage
Seagull
> hahahaha some of the sales girl dun even know what is a slide film, u
think
> they can understand that ah? no offence intended to anyone
a sales girl standing in front of the counter does only PR stuff. u need a
real technician who operates the machine. unfortunately not every mini lab
has an experienced operator.
> have u read that book? i want to learn some darkroom technique then
transfer
> it to photoshop (well, most PS tool is based on real darkroom), do u think
> it would be usefull? (i can check it out due not avilable locally, need to
> blindly mail order it)
not yet. but here r the online simplified version
http://photography.cicada.com/zs/toc.html and
http://www.normankoren.com/zonesystem.html
there is no harm reading it anyway. it helps in understanding exposure.
> from www.photo.net there is a link to this woman shooting portrait using a
> huge (A3??) polaraid camera :)
is there such a big polaroid? i thought there was only one standard size.
> i think its in the market already and i think its a crap (is it the one
> using SD as storage?)
it's a DV, uses a DV tape right ? not sure what kinda flashcard it accepts.
panasonic uses SD just like sony uses memory stick.
> sell it to me CHEAPLY!!! heheheh
> try to learn to use that distortion to your advantage
it was already cheap when my dad bought it. i think the price now should be
RM1k + for a new one D version. it's the only wide angle we have, so we
definitely won't sell ;)
i find it makes the most interesting perspective when shooting at a higher
level than the people, and people with nice landscape.
Moat
"Seagull" <sea...@pl.jaring.my> wrote in message news:ahdj06$i8c$1@news
> real technician who operates the machine. unfortunately not every mini lab
> has an experienced operator.
exactly the problem
> not yet. but here r the online simplified version
thanks for the url
> there is no harm reading it anyway. it helps in understanding exposure.
zone system is way to advance/not related to my style
what i'm interested to learn is darkroom manipulation not related to proper
exposure
> is there such a big polaroid? i thought there was only one standard size.
http://elsa.photo.net/
20 x 24 polaraid :)
> it's a DV, uses a DV tape right ? not sure what kinda flashcard it
accepts.
> panasonic uses SD just like sony uses memory stick.
as far as i know dv = digital video, the recording medium is variable such
as digital8,mini dv and microdv from sony
i thought u r refering to the small panasonic dv camera that is using a sd s
a recording medium
> it was already cheap when my dad bought it. i think the price now should
be
> RM1k + for a new one D version. it's the only wide angle we have, so we
> definitely won't sell ;)
\m looking for a used manual version for maybe around 400rm? hehehe sound
stupid but with digital slr becoming imminent ppl will be dumping their non
auto focus lens (24mm is wide enough that focus is no longer critical,
somebody was selling an electronically dead D version for abt 450rm but i
was too late)
Seagull
> http://elsa.photo.net/
> 20 x 24 polaraid :)
out of my imagination !
> i thought u r refering to the small panasonic dv camera that is using a sd
s
> a recording medium
don't know what's the model. but isn't a SD too limited in storage if used
in DV ?
> \m looking for a used manual version for maybe around 400rm? hehehe sound
> stupid but with digital slr becoming imminent ppl will be dumping their
non
> auto focus lens (24mm is wide enough that focus is no longer critical,
> somebody was selling an electronically dead D version for abt 450rm but i
> was too late)
if the digital slr body accepts the mounting of an old manual len, i think
it can still be used, however, only in full manual mode. wide angle is never
wide in a digital slr because of smaller digital sensor in the digital body,
unless later there will be a full 35mm sensor available. the non-D AF 24mm i
bought last time was around rm600. why u always too late ? ;)
Moat
> don't know what's the model. but isn't a SD too limited in storage if used
> in DV ?
iinm the model i mentioned is recording the movie in mpeg4 or something,
like the small sharp? digicam/handicam that can record 1 hour in a 32mb
smart media, something like that, dun really interest me so i dun really
read the details
> if the digital slr body accepts the mounting of an old manual len, i think
> it can still be used, however, only in full manual mode.
nikon d100(rm8k) is based on their f80 thus no metering whatsoever with
manual lens
i'm waiting for loyal nikon user to buy into this system and sell off their
manual lens (its really a hassle not to have built in metering unless u r
shooting in studios)
nikon d1/x/h can meter with the old lens but is abt 20k, if u can afford
this surely u can afford all the Af-s/IF/ED/ABCDEFGH...lens :)
my old long term planning was to get the d 1 and buy used ais prime lens
initially before upgrading to current mid range zoom lens (in the same time
hoping that their consumer dslr@d100 to meter with old lens, sadly that is
not the case)
my current plan is to buy a used dslr (d30 or 60) in maybe 2 years time and
buy a nikon lens to canon bodies adaptor, canon body is thinner so i can use
the nikon lens without problem
the good thing abt canon is even my lowly eos 1000fn can meter even without
lens, so i can use my nikon lens as if its mounted on my fe2 but with stop
down metering
this is top secret, else everybody will do this :)
> wide angle is never
> wide in a digital slr because of smaller digital sensor in the digital
body,
> unless later there will be a full 35mm sensor available.
not anytime soon, the contax full frame is way too expensive (30k)
> the non-D AF 24mm i
> bought last time was around rm600. why u always too late ? ;)
i'm normally an impulsive buyer, but sometime i think too much (which
actually save me some money :)
Seagull
> manual lens (its really a hassle not to have built in metering unless u r
> shooting in studios)
well, u can use a handheld lightmeter or just shooting based on experience
then bracket +/- several stops. since it's digital, bracketing doesn't waste
film. but i think people like u and me can't tolerate a camera without ttl
metering. ;)
> nikon d1/x/h can meter with the old lens but is abt 20k, if u can afford
> this surely u can afford all the Af-s/IF/ED/ABCDEFGH...lens :)
digital body is getting cheaper and better, just the lens that r always
expensive especially nikon, way overpriced. i don't know if u can rent a len
in malaysia. i heard there was something like nikon professional service
which provided lens rental.
> my current plan is to buy a used dslr (d30 or 60) in maybe 2 years time
and
> buy a nikon lens to canon bodies adaptor, canon body is thinner so i can
use
> the nikon lens without problem
so the adaptor allows canon body to perform metering through nikon len and
AF without any problem ? or u mean the len has to stop down to the smallest
aperture in order to meter ?
> not anytime soon, the contax full frame is way too expensive (30k)
don't worry. maybe when u have saved enough for ur d60, full frame body
would become affordable. ;)
Moat
> well, u can use a handheld lightmeter or
of course, but lots of time i need the convenience of a built in metering
system (mostly indoors family stuff with dedicated flash mounted on camera n
bounced to the wall or ceiling, imagine doing it with light meter with
everybody moving, of course auto flash can handle it but...... :)
> just shooting based on experience
> then bracket +/- several stops.
hahahah problem is i started with autoeverything point n shoot, where got
experience? now only starting to learn properly (at least i thought so)
> since it's digital, bracketing doesn't waste film.
actually u can review the result on the spot and adjust accordingly, but
that also need lots of experience n test to judge the exposure based on the
lcd (eg: while i can c all the detail in my coolpix lcd, when the same
photos transferred to the pc the details is lost = underexposure)
> but i think people like u and me can't tolerate a camera without ttl
> metering. ;)
i can tolerate it when its for fun, but for imformal family photos its not
practical
> digital body is getting cheaper and better, just the lens that r always
> expensive especially nikon, way overpriced.
thats why i\m going to switch back to canon, buy good af canon zoom and
legendary nikon prime :)
> i don't know if u can rent a len
> in malaysia. i heard there was something like nikon professional service
> which provided lens rental.
havent heard such thing (would love to rent a good telephotos for gp use a
few time per years)
> so the adaptor allows canon body to perform metering through nikon len and
> AF without any problem ?
the adaptor allow nikon lens to be mounted on canon ef bodies
no connection whatsoever, thus no aperture information transferred = need to
stop down for metering
no af, i'll buy canon zoom for af purposes (cheaper too)
> or u mean the len has to stop down to the smallest
> aperture in order to meter ?
stop down = closing the lens aperture to the exposure aperture (so if u have
a 50mm 1.4 and want to take photos at 1.4 u dun even have to close the
aperture)
> don't worry. maybe when u have saved enough for ur d60, full frame body
> would become affordable. ;)
no, my plan include the price drop
say 4k for d60 in 2 years?
:)
Seagull
> actually u can review the result on the spot and adjust accordingly, but
> that also need lots of experience n test to judge the exposure based on
the
> lcd (eg: while i can c all the detail in my coolpix lcd, when the same
> photos transferred to the pc the details is lost = underexposure)
bracketing would solve ur problem ;) does ur coolpix have spot metering?
sometimes matrix metering is not so reliable. i just took 26 sunset + full
moon exposures this evening on negative. lots of bracketing. i wasn't sure
how would the centerweight meter in f801 act against high contrast scene.
f801 doesn't have spot metering. will develop it when i finish the whole
roll.
> havent heard such thing (would love to rent a good telephotos for gp use a
> few time per years)
i can ask for the info. wait for my good news ;)
> stop down = closing the lens aperture to the exposure aperture (so if u
have
> a 50mm 1.4 and want to take photos at 1.4 u dun even have to close the
> aperture)
in other words, stop down = DOF preview in newer slr ? there is no
difference in aperture opening when i turn the aperture ring in f801. it's
always wide open except when i press DOF preview button.
Moat
> bracketing would solve ur problem ;)
of course, but for ppl photography where got the time? for still life i dun
mind using my full manual bellow setup with handheld light meter n bracket
not just for the exposure but also the DOF
> does ur coolpix have spot metering?
yup, but i prefer matrix and lock the exp. when i see that it is right
> sometimes matrix metering is not so reliable. i just took 26 sunset + full
> moon exposures this evening on negative. lots of bracketing. i wasn't sure
> how would the centerweight meter in f801 act against high contrast scene.
use telephoto to make the centre weight area smaller, then swap to taking
lens, meter on the moon and add 2 stop?
> f801 doesn't have spot metering. will develop it when i finish the whole
> roll.
what lens r u using?
> > havent heard such thing (would love to rent a good telephotos for gp use
a
> > few time per years)
> i can ask for the info. wait for my good news ;)
thanks, hope its in klang valley n not too expensive (else i might as well
buy a used nikon ais), speed is not really important due gp is run in bright
daylight normally
> in other words, stop down = DOF preview in newer slr ?
wohooooo, its easier to show than xplain, let me try though
stop down is not the same as dof preview but something like that
remove your lens from the body and rotate the aperture ring, u'll c the
aperture closing (it work with my ais lens,should work with all lens except
a fully electronic lens such s the "G" series)
> there is no
> difference in aperture opening when i turn the aperture ring in f801. it's
> always wide open except when i press DOF preview button.
the dof button is keeping the the aperture open(so u can focus easily), when
u depress that button it will show the current aperture
Seagull
> use telephoto to make the centre weight area smaller, then swap to taking
> lens, meter on the moon and add 2 stop?
this method requires at least 500mm i think ? if it's spot metering, 2 stops
extra are just about right or else the moon becomes 18% grey.
> what lens r u using?
24mm and 50mm. zoom-telephoto (70-210) is used in studio for portrait. can't
take it away. shooting moon with a 50mm would show a 5mm mini-moon in
negative ;(
> wohooooo, its easier to show than xplain, let me try though
> stop down is not the same as dof preview but something like that
> remove your lens from the body and rotate the aperture ring, u'll c the
> aperture closing (it work with my ais lens,should work with all lens
> except a fully electronic lens such s the "G" series)
iinm, the len should not be leaving the body while loosening it, right ?
i've read this from some macro-pros. they use this method when the body
doesn't have DOF preview feature.
> the dof button is keeping the the aperture open(so u can focus easily),
> when u depress that button it will show the current aperture
nope, it works the other way round. no matter what's the aperture setting,
it's always open at the largest aperture. let's say i turn the aperture ring
to f8, it's still wide open at f1.4 - the largest aperture in a f1.4 len
(this is good for composition and focusing, brighter viewfinder). now if i
press the DOF preview button, it closes the aperture to f8 so that i could
see how far is the background still in focus. when i release the button, it
opens up to f1.4.
this is how exactly DOF preview works in modern slr. perhaps older slr works
the opposite way ? then i couldn't think what's the use of DOF preview in
older slr.
all right. i just received reply from my teacher who is a NPS member.
looks like it's a real advantage to be a member.
---------------------------------------------
Regarding the lens rentals, it's my understanding that Nikon only supplies
lenses to NPS members (Nikon Professional Services). Actually, once you
become a member, you can request specialty lenses (ultra long or ultra wide)
at any time for no charge.
Becoming a member is easy if you have a company that is willing to say/vouch
that you work for them as a photographer. I was a student intern
photographer for a news magazine way back in 1992-94 when I became a member.
Nikon HQ in any major city should be able to give you an NPS application
form. And the final advantage is "once a member, always a member"; I still
carry my NPS card with me just in case, and I don't even have any Nikon gear
anymore.
---------------------------------------------
Moat
> this method requires at least 500mm i think ?
get a spot meter then, my friend bought a used pentax digital spot meter for
rm450, way cool, the spot area is really small
i dun think i\ll get one myself, lazy to learn/select proper mid tones.
incidents meter is easier :)
> shooting moon with a 50mm would show a 5mm mini-moon in
> negative ;(
exactly my thought, and light pollution make thing even worst
> iinm, the len should not be leaving the body while loosening it, right ?
> i've read this from some macro-pros. they use this method when the body
> doesn't have DOF preview feature.
nooo i'm talking abt some other thing, what u mentioned is a stop down
method between certain lens n bodies
do u have an ais lens? remove it from the body n rotate the aperture ring,
u'll c what 'm talking abt
> nope, it works the other way round. no matter what's the aperture setting,
actually i'm talking abt the same thing but different way (mechanical side
instead of what u actually c), sorry 4 the confusion :)
> this is how exactly DOF preview works in modern slr. perhaps older slr
> works the opposite way ? then i couldn't think what's the use of DOF
> preview in older slr.
its the same, hard 2 xplain my explaination
> all right. i just received reply from my teacher who is a NPS member.
> looks like it's a real advantage to be a member.
hmmmm definately not for me
> carry my NPS card with me just in case, and I don't even have any Nikon
> gear anymore.
what gear r u using nowdays?
btw, where r u? is your father shop sell medium format slide? (i want to
make a homemade ir filter)
Seagull
> get a spot meter then, my friend bought a used pentax digital spot meter
there r reflective meter and incidental meter, so which does that spot meter
belong to ?
> do u have an ais lens? remove it from the body n rotate the aperture ring,
> u'll c what 'm talking abt
yes, i have. when i turns the ring, the aperture size is being changed, so
does the protruding pin on the aluminium ring, moving up and down. so what
does that relate to "stop-down metering" ?
> hmmmm definately not for me
well, u could work voluntarily as a photographer for ur company. ;)
> > carry my NPS card with me just in case, and I don't even have any Nikon
> > gear anymore.
>
> what gear r u using nowdays?
that was the reply from my teacher. i guess he uses his leica R system and a
kodak 4800 digital camera nowadays. whenever he wanna shoot for news press
like reuter, then he asks for equipment from NPS.
> btw, where r u? is your father shop sell medium format slide? (i want to
> make a homemade ir filter)
i'm in sungai petani now. unfortunately dad's shop doesn't sell medium
format slide. medium format is very rare among consumer. what's that ir
filter used from ? don't have experience in ir photography.
Moat
> there r reflective meter and incidental meter, so which does that spot
meter
> belong to ?
afaik spot meter only come in reflective flavour
how la to make 1 degree incident spot meter?
> yes, i have. when i turns the ring, the aperture size is being changed, so
> does the protruding pin on the aluminium ring, moving up and down. so what
> does that relate to "stop-down metering" ?
nothing
what u observe is what i mentioned earlier, the dof lever in the bodies is
keeping the aperture open (prevent the pin from moving n thus keeping the
aperture open until u press the dof button which let the pin moves, confused
yet? :)
with the adaptor that i mentioned, nothing will keep the pin from moving,
thus if its stopped down to f8, u'll c f8 and so does the eos body which
will meter accordingly (this is what i refer to as stop down metering in
this setup)
> well, u could work voluntarily as a photographer for ur company. ;)
sadly the company i work for does not do any business in photography
> that was the reply from my teacher.
oic, it just that u r talking abt nikon lens earlier n then u said u no
longer nikon stuff
> what's that ir
> filter used from ? don't have experience in ir photography.
i have a proper ir filter for doing digital ir photography (havent try with
film, dunno where to buy/process the film n very difficult with film)
u can use an UNexposed but developed color slide film as a homemade ir
filter, but i'm not going to use it as filter for lens, i want to use it to
experiment with flash, the "filter" will only let "IR" pass thru, so
basically instead of using "IR" from the sun i want to use flash.
Seagull
> afaik spot meter only come in reflective flavour
> how la to make 1 degree incident spot meter?
ha ;) never having used a handheld lightmeter, i don't know how does the
spot mode work. typically we use one-percent of the center viewfinder as the
spot mode. now how are we gonna use handheld reflective spot meter, by
close-reading? i'm sure it doesn't have a viewfinder like slr.
> confused yet? :)
all right. now i understand. it's the problem of the adaptor ;)
have u come across any nikkor lens that can't meter? i have one 35-105mm
f3.5-f5.6 MF (not sure it's a AI or non-AI. has three screws on the ring and
aperture coupling pin and doesn't have meter coupling) which doesn't allow
f801 and old nikkormat FT3 to meter. no aperture reading in f801 and FT3. i
thought every nikkor lens should be able to meter ?
> experiment with flash, the "filter" will only let "IR" pass thru, so
> basically instead of using "IR" from the sun i want to use flash.
this is pretty cool. so the sensor of a digital camera can even catch IR
unlike film ?
Moat
> spot mode. now how are we gonna use handheld reflective spot meter, by
> close-reading? i'm sure it doesn't have a viewfinder like slr.
actually it work exactly like in camera spot meter
viewfinder n all, even led readout like normal camera (for the specific
light meter that my friend bought, dunno abt other model)
> all right. now i understand. it's the problem of the adaptor ;)
something like that, there r so many variation, nothing is for sure unless u
have it in front of u
> have u come across any nikkor lens that can't meter?
well, my manual 50mm ais works fine in my fe2 but not with f60 (i sold off
the f60 n buy fe2)
> i have one 35-105mm
> f3.5-f5.6 MF (not sure it's a AI or non-AI. has three screws on the ring
and
> aperture coupling pin and doesn't have meter coupling) which doesn't allow
> f801 and old nikkormat FT3 to meter. no aperture reading in f801 and FT3.
i
try surfing for how to identify your lens, u might even damage your camera
if u mount a wrong lens
i'm really new in nikon world, i started with a fixed focus point n shoot
kodak n then eos 1000fn
i have no idea how f801 and ft3 looks like or how they function
> thought every nikkor lens should be able to meter ?
its not the lens, the bodies is the one that doing the metering
manual body like fm2/fe2/f3 can meter all lens from ai onward, so is pro
bodies like f90/f100/f4/f5
but lower end bodies like f60/65/80 can only meter with electronic lens
> this is pretty cool. so the sensor of a digital camera can even catch IR
> unlike film ?
for film u need special ir film to do it
with digicam, some older model is able to do it (u can even view how its
going to look using the lcd) like cp950/990,oly c2000/c2020 etc, newer model
have better ir blocking filter thus block the ir
Seagull
> try surfing for how to identify your lens, u might even damage your camera
> if u mount a wrong lens
thanks for telling me. luckily it didn't cause any harm. the old lens
doesn't have any electronic contact point. maybe this is one of the reasons
why the body can't get aperture information from the lens.
ok. i think i gotta stop here. have to get my a** off and start shooting
some street photography in my town before it's too late. talking too much
tech without actually shooting isn't much fun ;( i'll try arrange my
digitized pictures and put them online sometime later. then we can have some
photo critique talk or whatever inspires creativity. keep in touch through
email ;)
Moat
> thanks for telling me. luckily it didn't cause any harm. the old lens
> doesn't have any electronic contact point.
good 4 u
just b carefull next time, those strange older linkage might damage your new
nikon
> maybe this is one of the reasons
> why the body can't get aperture information from the lens.
higher end body still have those linkage to enable it to meter with older
lens
> ok. i think i gotta stop here. have to get my a** off and start shooting
> some street photography in my town before it's too late. talking too much
> tech without actually shooting isn't much fun ;( i'll try arrange my
> digitized pictures and put them online sometime later. then we can have
some
> photo critique talk or whatever inspires creativity. keep in touch through
> email ;)
hahahaha
but i do not have any nice photos
i just like to study stuff n buy it
till then, enjoy yourself
damn, weekend is over :(((