try light painting on flowers
Zero Cool
I found it great in the 大師 's gallery, but I can't make similar effect
when I tried it last time.
Anyone make a good light painting before? Any tips on it ?
--
醉攝天下 人生幾何
Zero Cool
Zero Cool
On Thu, 13 Feb 1997 00:07:57 +0800, LAM <drw...@netvigator.com>
wrote:
>I haven't make any good light painting image before, but I have use the technique for
>quite a bit of time. Ansel Adam's 'The Negative' have a very basic chapter on it and you
>may consider to take a look in Page One in Causeway Bay.
>
>Lightpainting is the use of light to paint a scene. This is analogous to a painter using
>his/her brush to draw a painting. Thus we may describe the light source as 'light
>brush'.
>
>The procedures are as follows:
>
>1. Prepare a suitable light source such as a bright Krypton or Halogen touch. You may
>add colour gel or plastic sheet for particular colour or even put a filters over your
>lens. Commercial made light brush are very expensive and is not a must. When you move
>the light source more during exposure, the light is more 'soft'. On the other hand,
>moving the light source less give 'hard light' effect.
>
>2. Use a spotmeter or suitable reflective light meter (or even the spotmeter of your
>camera) and make a reading at the CENTRE of the light spot. Take a note of the area of
>coverage of the light source. NEVER make the reading from the edge of the lightbeam.
>
>3. Estimate the area you wish to light paint. Note the ratio of this area and the area
>of the light source. Multiple the time of exposure shown on your light meter at a
>certain aperture by this ratio. Suppose your area to paint is 2 square meter and the
>light source has one square meter coverage, and your get 30 seconds at F45 from your
>meter, multiple 30 seconds by 2 and you get 60 seconds at F45.
>
>4. Suppose you want a certain area to be brighter, say one stop above mid-gray, multiple
>the exposure time by 2. On the other hand, you may reduce the time to give darker
>effect.
>
>5. Take a note of the reciprocity failure. I personnaly use film of very low reciprocity
>failure such as Ektachrome 64T (EPY) or Ektar 25 to simplfy calculations. Please note
>that EPY only need 1/3 stop compensation at 100 seconds and Ektar 25 need no
>compensation even with 100 seconds.
>
>6. Further, if you wish to light paint an area further or nearer to the point you make
>your light reading, make sure that you make your light reading again. Otherwise you need
>to use the inverse square law which is quite inconvenient to use for 'non-scientific'
>kind of photographer.
>
>7. Don't rely too much on 'bracketing' since you need to exponentially increase the
>number of exposures by giving several area of lightpainting on the same image.
>
>8. Learn printing your own photos if possible since you may need a lot of dodging or
>burning-in in real life even with the most carefully planned light painting.
>Lightpainting slides are difficult for new comers, so prepare to practive on negatives
>first.
>
>9. You may PREEXPOSE the film first. This is done by exposing to a gray card with -3
>stops or so before you make your lightpainting. This help a lot to bring out the shadow
>details.
>
>Hope that this could help.
>
>Lam
Thank you very much.
Zero Cool