Collapsed footprint

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David Kelso

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Jul 28, 2010, 7:32:31 PM7/28/10
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Hi all, I'm new to the group, and trying to build a hexayurt for
burning man this year.

I live in a small apartment, and storing 8x4 sheets is pretty much
impossible, so I've been leaning towards the smallest size yurt, to
shrink the footprint to a manageable 4x4 storage size. I would
definitely prefer a larger setup though, so I thought I'd ping the
group and see if anyone has come up with any larger designs that have
a smaller than 8x4 collapsed footprint?

Also, just wanted to say a big thanks to everyone in the community for
putting together a bunch of great resources.

david

hexa...@gmail.com

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Jul 29, 2010, 7:06:29 AM7/29/10
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There's a 6' stretch hexayurt design with a 4'x4' footprint. The big roof pieces are three identical triangles. The walls are two squares. There's a URL but I can't find it.

Vinay

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LaRahna

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Jul 29, 2010, 7:54:30 AM7/29/10
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is this it perhaps?  LINK


Live life fully today!
LaRahna

wanda

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Jul 29, 2010, 12:54:07 PM7/29/10
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i've been considering this too. here's the link:
http://errantember.livejournal.com/161605.html

but i was concerned about the structural integrity of the roof with those diagonal shear lines. has anyone here tried this design? would it work okay with a rope loop anchoring system (rather than the tape anchors?)

thanks all,
wanda

Ray Kornele

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Jul 29, 2010, 2:04:49 PM7/29/10
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Just hinge all the eight foot panels.
KrazyKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

Shannon

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Jul 29, 2010, 8:38:03 PM7/29/10
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I just want to take a poll.
Is everyone using 1 inch material?
That is thick enough?

I found some 2 inch in the bay area but 12 sheets of that would be a huge package.

Elliot

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Jul 30, 2010, 5:00:42 AM7/30/10
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We actually built 3 hexayurts that used  1/2 inch material. The structural integrity mainly comes from the design itself.

Shannon

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Jul 30, 2010, 2:03:59 PM7/30/10
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Yeah but, doesn't the insulation thickness determine how cool it will stay?

Elliot

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Jul 30, 2010, 5:38:12 PM7/30/10
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I believe it's the r value of the insulation that determines this, so if you get something twice as thick with the same r rating they should keep your yurt equally cool :)

Spiral Syzygy

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Jul 30, 2010, 5:45:07 PM7/30/10
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R values go both ways, it will keep you cooler longer but will also
stay hot longer. The key is in keeping it cool for as long as possible
and making it easy to let hot air out as fast as possible. A vent in
the top is helpful. We cut a 6" hole in the roof and are using one of
those mushroom shaped, wind powered roof vents. When the wind blows,
it turns and sucks air from below. It's relatively quiet and seems to
work well. This will be the first year it get's used on playa with
this configuration. i would highly recommend a swamp cooler and a good
vent fan for ultimate comfort.

Spiral

William Ozier

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Jul 30, 2010, 5:53:59 PM7/30/10
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I am going to try and create a solar chimney on mine to help keep it cool. You put a black tube coming out the top. The sun heats the tube which heats the air and causes an updraft, which vents out the hot air and pulls in cool air...of course finding cool air to bring in on the playa maybe difficult, so there are a few more details to be worked out.

Joshua Keroes

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Jul 30, 2010, 5:58:48 PM7/30/10
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We got by with a 3" vent in the top. We put a candy cane of bendable duct through the roof and wrapped the open end in some scrap filter. Inside the yurt, the vent had a small flip door. We'd flip that vent open up during the day to get the hot air out and close it at night to keep the warm air in. No swamp cooler; nothing tricky. Granted, last year was mild but this totally did the trick for us. 

Good luck,
Joshua

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Spiral Syzygy <spiral...@gmail.com> wrote:

Spiral Syzygy

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Jul 30, 2010, 6:09:03 PM7/30/10
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Swamp coolers are awesome. They can be a bit pricey but they aren't all that hard to build. You need good ventalation to make use of them or it just gets hot and humid inside, which is not fun. I build one with a sterilite, a humidifier pad, a submersible pump and some computer case fans. It runs all week off of one car battery sized deepcycle we charged ahead of time. It also ran 6 compact florescent lights on an inverter all with a single charge. We filled the swamp cooler with melted ice from our cooler. Food for thought.

On Jul 30, 2010 4:59 PM, "Joshua Keroes" <jos...@keroes.com> wrote:

We got by with a 3" vent in the top. We put a candy cane of bendable duct through the roof and wrapped the open end in some scrap filter. Inside the yurt, the vent had a small flip door. We'd flip that vent open up during the day to get the hot air out and close it at night to keep the warm air in. No swamp cooler; nothing tricky. Granted, last year was mild but this totally did the trick for us. 

Good luck,

Joshua

On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Spiral Syzygy <spiral...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> R values go both ways, it will keep you cooler longer but will also

> stay hot longer. The key i...


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Elliot

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Jul 30, 2010, 6:14:16 PM7/30/10
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where in the ceiling have people been cutting their vents, and any ideas on placement for optimal air flow? the higher you go up the roof the easier it will be to pipe out hot air, but i'm worried about the structural integrity of the roof panels. Ideally i wanted to have some sort of pipe right in the centre, but that seems like a no go with how the yurts are taped up.

Percival du Chat Gris

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Jul 30, 2010, 10:54:23 PM7/30/10
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Greetings,

Original ger designs have a roof hole, at the peak, with a flap of material that is the same as the rest of the wall/roof material, for covering and exposing purposes.  This, combined with the ability to have air coming in, at the base of the walls, provides a lovely cool convection flow of air, cooling the space.  Normally this is achieved by lifting the cloth walls, and flipping aside the roof hole cover, but I've seen it work in a hexayurt with a series of low to the ground vent holes (with plug, for the nighttime) sealed with furnace filters, and a close to peak vent, designed the same way.

It's amazing how much that helps, and combine that with a swamp cooler, and you have quite a lovely space.

Of course, if you find yourself an artist/engineer with an interest in history, there are stone window covers, which take advantage of the cooling effect of forcing the air through narrower apatures, thereby speeding and cooling the air.  Carving something like that, or casting it, or even 3-D printing it ... might make one quite popular.

Percy

Leland

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Aug 24, 2010, 10:39:14 AM8/24/10
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Elliot,

You'd mentioned you used the 1/2 inch before ... I actually managed to
get both 1/2 and 1" on hold for me at the store to pick up this week.
Was there any reason not to go with the less expensive 1/2" in your
experience? Thanks!

Leland

On Jul 30, 5:00 am, Elliot <kryp...@gmail.com> wrote:
> We actually built 3 hexayurts that used  1/2 inch material. The structural
> integrity mainly comes from the design itself.
>
> On 29 July 2010 18:38, Shannon <spamfreeunive...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I just want to take a poll.
> > Is everyone using 1 inch material?
> > That is thick enough?
>
> > I found some 2 inch in the bay area but 12 sheets of that would be a huge
> > package.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "hexayurt" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to hexa...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > hexayurt+u...@googlegroups.com<hexayurt%2Bunsubscribe@googlegroups.c­om>
> > .
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/hexayurt?hl=en.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Elliot

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Aug 25, 2010, 1:08:16 AM8/25/10
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It turns out that I lied, and the stuff we have is one inch not 1/2. I thought it was thinner for some reason. I have never had my yurt out at the playa, but it has been to a few festivals and has done spectacular. Especially in wind and rain, which I was very appreciative of.

Cheers,
Elliot
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