Build your own Metalworking shop from scrap!

[Ryan Mcdermott]

http://lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html

We don't really need luxurious, multi HUNDRED dollar tools, when hand-made things mined out of the ground will work just fine.

-Ryan M.

[Jasper Nance]

Pretty sure a setup to do all this will cost you hundreds of dollars ;)

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Jasper Nance - KE7PHI
Creative and Scientific Imagery
http://www.nebarnix.com/

[Ryan]

Can we get the setup at harbor freight and just apply a LOT of duct tape
to it so that it holds together?

[John Kittelsrud]

A gallon of JB Weld should do the trick.

-John K.
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[Ryan]

Would it be possible to just make the entire thing out of JB weld? It
would be indestructible then, right? I really don't see why we would
need anything better than that.

-Ryan M.

[Jasper Nance]

so cool! JB weld castings....

[Jasper Nance]

Can we make a 3D printer that prints JB Weld???

[John Kittelsrud]

The specs ( http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php ) say no shrinkage
so it should work for gears. Not sure how long they would last, but it
would be fun to find out. Might get some free product from J-B Weld if
we did.

-John K.
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[Ryan Rix]

I've actually played with the idea; the only issue is cleaning the extruder
after each print. if the JB weld hardens you're drilling it out or lathing a
new extruder.

r

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Ryan Rix -- http://rix.si
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[Mike Bushroe]

I have this series of books on how to build a complete metal shop from
'scrap'. It does not cost much money, and virtually no HF would even
be needed, but HUGE amounts of time and labor. For instance, starting
the lathe, you buy a good piece of flat stock steel, cast aluminum
bases and mount, then spend weeks? with a scraper and flat edge and
prusian blue scraping off the high points to make the top perfectly
flat. Then you do the same to the edges, and at some point grind the
taper. Then you cast the slide/turret from aluminum, add the gibs and
mode scraping to get the two perfectly parallel and straight and
smooth so that the base slides without sticking or being loose enough
to wobble.

If you put all the time in, you can make far better than HF stuff,
but it is a LOT of time. Or, using the truing steps, you can take
apart HF and make it so much better. With LOTS of elbow grease!

Mike

[John Kittelsrud]

Oh, I was thinking parts made from JB Weld, yeah a printer that used
the Kwik set stuff would work but if it did harden then you would have
to make a new extruder.

-John K.
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[Jasper Nance]

Well, you would just need to incorporate a solvent purge line that you
actuate any time printing stops for more than 1 or 2 minutes.

[Ryan]

I have no words for how glorious of an idea this is.

SO GLORIOUS

-Ryan M.

[John Kittelsrud]

I think some of their products clean up with water so a short H2O
purge might do the trick. Fascinating...

-John K.
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[Ryan]

I have never wanted anything to happen as bad as I want this to happen
right now.

-Ryan M.

Jasper Nance wrote:

[Jasper Nance]

MAKE IT SO

[John]

Anyone ever try printing with super glue and baking soda?

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[Shawn Rutledge]

It takes some time to harden, and it likes to "flow" so you couldn't
expect the whole structure to support itself while still in liquid
form. It's just epoxy with a filling of metal particles. But maybe
there could be a UV-cureable resin with metal fill, so that each layer
could be cured after being laid down. But that would be less green:
the end product (or waste) is probably not recyclable. Does anyone
know of a UV-cureable resin that is more green?

[RyanL]

I have that entire series book in .pdf format on CD. :) Just saying...

On May 29, 3:16 am, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:

[dboy...@gmail.com]

your right about that to make it efficient you would need to make a fairly large printing area so that you could print multiple items that way by the time the printer gets done with one layer on the all items it can return to the first item that has had time to cure and begin the next layer.

[Mike Bushroe]

You could make the plunger system and most of the extruder that kept the two parts separate, then add a disposable tip (maybe 3D printer plastic made?) that would keep the two apart just a little further to prevent back flow, then mixed both together with baffle plates to rapidly mix the two parts and squirt them out the actual nozzle tip. Then when you stop, remove and throw away the disposable tip, wipe off the bottom of the permanent section to avoid drips, and print out a new disposable tip for the next run.

   To make long over hangs, slowing the step rate and possibly heating the extruded part might make it harden enough to span fairly long gaps.

The gears would have to be made with very wide faces to minimize the wear, and have them last long enough to make the replacements!

Mike