You mean 0.1094 inch thick steel plate? Yeah, hole saw with proper
lubrication. Just buy a hole saw at the hardware store with the appropriate
sized drill bit in the center and drill adapters. Use the drill press...
buy us a new drill vice while you're at it? :)
Clamping and wearing out the hole saw is the main issue. I practically
melted my way thru the top of an Antec steel computer case in high school
with a hole saw, double check the saw material and like I said set up
lubrication and clamping. Google the appropriate speeds.
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:03 AM, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Of I wanted to drill a 3" diameter hole in some 12 gauge steel...how
> would I do this with things at the lab? Or can I?
> Maybe a hole saw? Is there any special precautions to take with the
> still press if I did that? Or is that even a good idea?
What do I use for lube? I asked around a bit when I was drilling holes in
the dome struts but nobody knew.
On Oct 24, 2012, at 12:10 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com> wrote:
You mean 0.1094 inch thick steel plate? Yeah, hole saw with proper
lubrication. Just buy a hole saw at the hardware store with the appropriate
sized drill bit in the center and drill adapters. Use the drill press...
buy us a new drill vice while you're at it? :)
Clamping and wearing out the hole saw is the main issue. I practically
melted my way thru the top of an Antec steel computer case in high school
with a hole saw, double check the saw material and like I said set up
lubrication and clamping. Google the appropriate speeds.
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:03 AM, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Of I wanted to drill a 3" diameter hole in some 12 gauge steel...how
> would I do this with things at the lab? Or can I?
> Maybe a hole saw? Is there any special precautions to take with the
> still press if I did that? Or is that even a good idea?
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:13 AM, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Will!
> What do I use for lube? I asked around a bit when I was drilling holes in
> the dome struts but nobody knew.
> On Oct 24, 2012, at 12:10 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You mean 0.1094 inch thick steel plate? Yeah, hole saw with proper
> lubrication. Just buy a hole saw at the hardware store with the appropriate
> sized drill bit in the center and drill adapters. Use the drill press...
> buy us a new drill vice while you're at it? :)
> Clamping and wearing out the hole saw is the main issue. I practically
> melted my way thru the top of an Antec steel computer case in high school
> with a hole saw, double check the saw material and like I said set up
> lubrication and clamping. Google the appropriate speeds.
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:03 AM, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Of I wanted to drill a 3" diameter hole in some 12 gauge steel...how
>> would I do this with things at the lab? Or can I?
>> Maybe a hole saw? Is there any special precautions to take with the
>> still press if I did that? Or is that even a good idea?
Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small pilot hole put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight up the bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them from .5 to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional use.
Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best luck
I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a beefy
brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing
<afmanufactur...@aol.com>wrote:
> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small pilot
> hole put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
> up the bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
> from .5 to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
> use.
Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel tool with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk. Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat treatment is a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of heat treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft > tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best luck > I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a beefy > brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com<javascript:> > > wrote:
>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping >> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small pilot >> hole put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight >> up the bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them >> from .5 to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional >> use.
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel tool
> with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
> Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat treatment is
> a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of heat
> treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
> Mike
> On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best luck
>> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a beefy
>> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com>
>> wrote:
>>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
>>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small pilot hole
>>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight up the
>>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them from .5
>>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional use.
> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
> --
> Nate Plamondon
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
> tool
> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
> treatment is
> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of heat
> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
> > Mike
> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best
> luck
> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a
> beefy
> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com>
> >> wrote:
> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
> pilot hole
> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
> up the
> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
> from .5
> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
> use.
> How do you know its spring steel? just out of curiosity? I don't even
> really know what spring steel is to be honest!
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:40 PM, Nate Plamondon <nplamon...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
>> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
>> --
>> Nate Plamondon
>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
>> tool
>> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
>> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
>> treatment is
>> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of
>> heat
>> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
>> > Mike
>> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best
>> luck
>> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a
>> beefy
>> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
>> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
>> pilot hole
>> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
>> up the
>> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
>> from .5
>> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
>> use.
> Cuz I'm cutting a spring :) also I'm going to McMaster to buy stuff called
> spring steel which I plan to cut :)
> Thanks for the advice! I'll go with abrasive.
> On Oct 24, 2012 1:44 PM, "Jasper Nance" <nebarot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> How do you know its spring steel? just out of curiosity? I don't even
>> really know what spring steel is to be honest!
>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:40 PM, Nate Plamondon <nplamon...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
>>> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
>>> --
>>> Nate Plamondon
>>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
>>> tool
>>> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
>>> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
>>> treatment is
>>> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of
>>> heat
>>> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
>>> > Mike
>>> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>>> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>>> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder.
>>> Best luck
>>> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a
>>> beefy
>>> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>>> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com
>>> >> wrote:
>>> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
>>> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
>>> pilot hole
>>> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
>>> up the
>>> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
>>> from .5
>>> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
>>> use.
Oh sorry :) As far as how to tell, generally if you can bend metal it'll
stay pretty bent. Spring steel tends to snap back to its original shape
unless it's bent too much. I think its tempering has to do with its
toughness too.
On Oct 24, 2012 1:44 PM, "Jasper Nance" <nebarot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> How do you know its spring steel? just out of curiosity? I don't even
> really know what spring steel is to be honest!
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:40 PM, Nate Plamondon <nplamon...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
>> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
>> --
>> Nate Plamondon
>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
>> tool
>> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
>> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
>> treatment is
>> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of
>> heat
>> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
>> > Mike
>> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder. Best
>> luck
>> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a
>> beefy
>> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
>> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
>> pilot hole
>> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
>> up the
>> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
>> from .5
>> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
>> use.
> Oh sorry :) As far as how to tell, generally if you can bend metal it'll
> stay pretty bent. Spring steel tends to snap back to its original shape
> unless it's bent too much. I think its tempering has to do with its
> toughness too.
> On Oct 24, 2012 1:44 PM, "Jasper Nance" <nebarot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> How do you know its spring steel? just out of curiosity? I don't even
>> really know what spring steel is to be honest!
>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:40 PM, Nate Plamondon <nplamon...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
>>> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
>>> --
>>> Nate Plamondon
>>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
>>> tool
>>> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
>>> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
>>> treatment is
>>> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of
>>> heat
>>> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
>>> > Mike
>>> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>>> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>>> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder.
>>> Best luck
>>> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got a
>>> beefy
>>> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>>> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <afmanuf...@aol.com
>>> >> wrote:
>>> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for popping
>>> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
>>> pilot hole
>>> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center, tight
>>> up the
>>> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
>>> from .5
>>> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
>>> use.
On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 4:39 PM, Ryan Mcdermott <blh...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Jasper, am I taking crazy pills or did I hear somewhere that a tig welder
> can be used in the same fashion as a plasma cutter?
> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 4:23 PM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Oh sorry :) As far as how to tell, generally if you can bend metal it'll
>> stay pretty bent. Spring steel tends to snap back to its original shape
>> unless it's bent too much. I think its tempering has to do with its
>> toughness too.
>> On Oct 24, 2012 1:44 PM, "Jasper Nance" <nebarot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> How do you know its spring steel? just out of curiosity? I don't even
>>> really know what spring steel is to be honest!
>>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:40 PM, Nate Plamondon <nplamon...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> Dremel also makes circle-cutting guides for their rotary tools. I
>>>> think I have one you'd be welcome to borrow.
>>>> --
>>>> Nate Plamondon
>>>> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Mike Bushroe <mbush...@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> > Spring steel sounds like a case for abrasive cutting, either a dremel
>>>> tool
>>>> > with a cut off disk, or a chop saw with a metal cutting abrasive disk.
>>>> > Depends on how accurate the cuts need to be, and if losing heat
>>>> treatment is
>>>> > a problem. EDM would be the best if precision and/or minimal lose of
>>>> heat
>>>> > treatment were an issue, but we don't have one.
>>>> > Mike
>>>> > On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 1:02:26 AM UTC-7, Will Bradley wrote:
>>>> >> Since we're on the topic of steel, anyone know how to cut 0.035" soft
>>>> >> tempered black oxide steel springs? Our snips and pliers shudder.
>>>> Best luck
>>>> >> I have so far is using the diamond-coated hacksaw thing. Anyone got
>>>> a beefy
>>>> >> brake? I need to cut 3/4 inch strips.
>>>> >> On Wed, Oct 24, 2012 at 12:47 AM, afmanufacturing <
>>>> afmanuf...@aol.com>
>>>> >> wrote:
>>>> >>> Use a knockout hole punch any electrician will have a set for
>>>> popping
>>>> >>> holes and electrical panels to run Conduit you just drill a small
>>>> pilot hole
>>>> >>> put one half on each side and put the bolt through the center,
>>>> tight up the
>>>> >>> bolt and Bam a perfect cut hole with no distortion, they make them
>>>> from .5
>>>> >>> to 6 in I think even Harbor freight has a cheap set for occasional
>>>> use.
> Oh sorry :) As far as how to tell, generally if you can bend metal > it'll stay pretty bent. Spring steel tends to snap back to its > original shape unless it's bent too much. I think its tempering has to > do with its toughness too.
In the metallurgy/engineering world, this is the difference between elastic deformation and plastic deformation. Spring steel has a larger range of elastic deformation.
>> Oh sorry :) As far as how to tell, generally if you can bend metal it'll
>> stay pretty bent. Spring steel tends to snap back to its original shape
>> unless it's bent too much. I think its tempering has to do with its
>> toughness too.
>> In the metallurgy/engineering world, this is the difference between
> elastic deformation and plastic deformation. Spring steel has a larger
> range of elastic deformation.
How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to spend
hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper music
wire and making it a hard temper.
On Oct 25, 2012 8:50 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to spend
> hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper music
> wire and making it a hard temper.
Yeah but it loses its shape by ~10% when I stretch it to fit in the part.
Not nearly as stiff as other springs of similar measure.
On Oct 25, 2012 10:07 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Music wire arrives properly tempered for spring use, all you need to do is
> wind it on a mandrel, no heat treat is necessary.
> cheers,
> c
> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 9:38 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to spend
>> hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper music
>> wire and making it a hard temper.
In small sizes, a very small change in wire diameter makes a big difference
in spring stiffness. You can also make a stiffer spring by making less
coils (coarser pitch). Another option is to make a double spring with one
set of coils inside another. Assuming that you have the correct type of
wire, I don't think that it's likely that you'd be able to improve upon the
factory heat-treatment, probably best to just buy the right stuff from
McMaster.
> Yeah but it loses its shape by ~10% when I stretch it to fit in the part.
> Not nearly as stiff as other springs of similar measure.
> On Oct 25, 2012 10:07 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Music wire arrives properly tempered for spring use, all you need to do
>> is wind it on a mandrel, no heat treat is necessary.
>> cheers,
>> c
>> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 9:38 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to spend
>>> hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper music
>>> wire and making it a hard temper.
It's a single 270° bend with a kink in it, only name I've found for this
type is "G spring" because that's what it's shaped like.
It's effectively a single-ended, single-coil torsion spring. A cam shape is
put in the center and rotated, expanding the spring's overall diameter
slightly. See the bright stainless steel "G" shaped thing in this photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hslphotosync/8117988979/in/photostream
The most effective way of making these so far seems to be cutting up
existing springs. Existing springs of the same wire and outer diameter get
much better performance than the ones I made from music wire. The main
downside to cutting existing springs is that it's been hard finding the
exact right dimensions, but I'm sure I can find if I keep looking.
By comparison, I'm sure if I tried bending the spring in a real punchdown
tool, it'd just snap. Hence my thinking towards tempering :)
On Oct 25, 2012 10:50 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> In small sizes, a very small change in wire diameter makes a big
> difference in spring stiffness. You can also make a stiffer spring by
> making less coils (coarser pitch). Another option is to make a double
> spring with one set of coils inside another. Assuming that you have the
> correct type of wire, I don't think that it's likely that you'd be able to
> improve upon the factory heat-treatment, probably best to just buy the
> right stuff from McMaster.
> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 10:22 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Yeah but it loses its shape by ~10% when I stretch it to fit in the part.
>> Not nearly as stiff as other springs of similar measure.
>> On Oct 25, 2012 10:07 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Music wire arrives properly tempered for spring use, all you need to do
>>> is wind it on a mandrel, no heat treat is necessary.
>>> cheers,
>>> c
>>> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 9:38 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to spend
>>>> hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper music
>>>> wire and making it a hard temper.
That could definitely be a different alloy or heat-treat than a normal
spring. Springs are expected to flex millions of times without failure,
most clips (like for wrist pins etc) would expect to see many fewer cycles.
cheers,
c
On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 11:41 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
> It's a single 270° bend with a kink in it, only name I've found for this
> type is "G spring" because that's what it's shaped like.
> It's effectively a single-ended, single-coil torsion spring. A cam shape
> is put in the center and rotated, expanding the spring's overall diameter
> slightly. See the bright stainless steel "G" shaped thing in this photo:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/hslphotosync/8117988979/in/photostream
> The most effective way of making these so far seems to be cutting up
> existing springs. Existing springs of the same wire and outer diameter get
> much better performance than the ones I made from music wire. The main
> downside to cutting existing springs is that it's been hard finding the
> exact right dimensions, but I'm sure I can find if I keep looking.
> By comparison, I'm sure if I tried bending the spring in a real punchdown
> tool, it'd just snap. Hence my thinking towards tempering :)
> On Oct 25, 2012 10:50 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> In small sizes, a very small change in wire diameter makes a big
>> difference in spring stiffness. You can also make a stiffer spring by
>> making less coils (coarser pitch). Another option is to make a double
>> spring with one set of coils inside another. Assuming that you have the
>> correct type of wire, I don't think that it's likely that you'd be able to
>> improve upon the factory heat-treatment, probably best to just buy the
>> right stuff from McMaster.
>> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 10:22 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> Yeah but it loses its shape by ~10% when I stretch it to fit in the
>>> part. Not nearly as stiff as other springs of similar measure.
>>> On Oct 25, 2012 10:07 AM, "Corey Renner" <vandal...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Music wire arrives properly tempered for spring use, all you need to do
>>>> is wind it on a mandrel, no heat treat is necessary.
>>>> cheers,
>>>> c
>>>> On Thu, Oct 25, 2012 at 9:38 AM, Will Bradley <bradley.w...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>> How much of a pain is it to do? Trying to gauge how many hours to
>>>>> spend hunting for the perfect spring online versus taking this soft temper
>>>>> music wire and making it a hard temper.
