Account Options

  1. Sign in
The old Google Groups will be going away soon, but your browser is incompatible with the new version.
Google Groups Home
« Groups Home
hackerspace_brisbane
Home
+ new post
About this group
Join this group
Message from discussion Upgrading an old electric furnace
The group you are posting to is a Usenet group. Messages posted to this group will make your email address visible to anyone on the Internet.
Your reply message has not been sent.
Your post was successful
 
From:
To:
Cc:
Followup To:
Add Cc | Add Followup-to | Edit Subject
Subject:
Validation:
For verification purposes please type the characters you see in the picture below or the numbers you hear by clicking the accessibility icon. Listen and type the numbers you hear
 
Adam Nielsen  
View profile  
 More options Nov 9 2012, 12:18 am
From: Adam Nielsen <a.niel...@shikadi.net>
Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2012 15:18:19 +1000
Local: Fri, Nov 9 2012 12:18 am
Subject: Re: Upgrading an old electric furnace
Print | View thread | Show original | Report this message | Find messages by this author

> My osPID arrived today. Pretty nice bit of kit. I'm looking for a safer
> way of switching the 240v side of things, rather than wiring to the
> screw terminals on the back of the osPID. Jaycar sell this:

> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MS6142

> It seems like it would be trivial to plug the furnace through one of
> those devices and then drive the buttons on the remote from the relay in
> the osPID. Set the furnace's controls to full blast and let the osPID
> handle the regulation.

> Thoughts?

Is it really any safer using a device of questionable quality, compared
to knowing you did the job yourself properly?

The osPID seems to be happy to switch 240V@10A so there shouldn't be any
problems wiring it up directly (assuming your furnace is less than 10
amps.)  Just add another fuse or something if you're really worried, or
put it in an earthed metal container so if anything comes loose it'll
trip something before it causes problems.

By design the relay load is isolated from the input, and it looks like
there's a sufficient air gap on the PCB, so short of a lightning strike
there's little chance of the mains bridging over to the low voltage side
of the circuit.

Cheers,
Adam.


 
You must Sign in before you can post messages.
To post a message you must first join this group.
Please update your nickname on the subscription settings page before posting.
You do not have the permission required to post.
Create a group - Google Groups - Google Home - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy
©2013 Google