Finally,

[Mike Peavey]

Started the Airone for the first time this morning, had a short ride this afternoon, seems to run strong and have all four gears and a neutral.   Two observations so far, the clutch does not fully disengage, hopefully, just an adjustment.   The spring is a measured 27.5mm and the actuation rod sticks out of the pressure plate 1 thread/1mm.  I was also getting some smoke out of the oil tank, I'm assuming from crankcase ventilation? Checked the oil level, it was fine and it was warm, but not hot, after about a short 10 minute jaunt.  I can see that the oil is stirred up in the tank when the engine is running and was warm, so I'm assuming the the oil pump, which I disassembled and checked out, is working.   I'm breaking it in using mineral oil.

Any thoughts appreciated. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lwmrffon7s9ytex/Airone%20first%20run.MOV

Thanks, 

Mike 

[Patrick Hayes]

On 3/29/2013 7:34 PM, Mike Peavey wrote:
> I was also
> getting some smoke out of the oil tank, I'm assuming from crankcase
> ventilation? Checked the oil level, it was fine and it was warm, but not
> hot, after about a short 10 minute jaunt. I can see that the oil is
> stirred up in the tank when the engine is running and was warm, so I'm
> assuming the the oil pump, which I disassembled and checked out, is
> working. I'm breaking it in using mineral oil.
> Any thoughts appreciated.

Very fine looking and sounding. The minor smoke may be a product of
your break-in oil. These Guzzi motors run very cool. You're going to
have to work it hard to get significant heat at the oil tank. Warm
seems right for what you did.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Buzz Kanter]

I have a 1955 Military Airone. It's been sitting for a couple of years and I want to make sure I am doing the maintenance right before I thrash it on the upcoming MotoGiro USA in May.

Tire pressure?

Engine oil weight?

How much oil and what weight in the filler cap over the transmission (yes, I drained it from under the flywheel)

Thanks,

Buzz Kanter

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-singles+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

--
American Iron Magazine

Motorcycle Bagger

RoadBike

Classic American Iron

[Patrick Hayes]

On 3/30/2013 2:28 PM, Buzz Kanter wrote:
> I have a 1955 Military Airone. It's been sitting for a couple of years
> and I want to make sure I am doing the maintenance right before I thrash
> it on the upcoming MotoGiro USA in May.
>
> Tire pressure?

24-26 psi


>
> Engine oil weight?

straight 40 or 50

> How much oil and what weight in the filler cap over the transmission
> (yes, I drained it from under the flywheel)

NO oil in the filler over the transmission. That little plug is only
for introducing mineral spirits for the purpose of washing off the
clutch plates.

Yes, you should drain the clutch chamber from below, but not much more
than an ounce or two should come out. If it has sat a very long time,
it is possible that all of your reserve engine oil has 'wet sumped' down
to the bottom and then past the felt seals into the clutch. Other than
a little puddle, there shouldn't be any oil inside the engine during
normal operation.

Oil is introduced into the dry sump reserve tank just above the head.
Probably takes two quarts. As a general rule, fill it until the oil
level is equal to the bottom of the angled filler tube.

If you knew all this and were only asking about what to put into the
clutch chamber from above, then that answer is zero. Oil mist from the
engine will migrate out into the clutch chamber to keep the gears and
the plates lubricated. It does not generally migrate back into the
engine. Periodically you drain it, rinse out with spirits, and drive.
If you were paranoid about primary gear lubrication, then I suppose a
dozen drops onto the clutch basket gear while rotating would be useful.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Mike Peavey]

Patrick, so with the wear in the cutouts in my flywheel that mate to the pinion gear tangs, there was about .3mm to .4mm of slop compared to the tangs on the pinion gear. cutouts measure 10.1mm and the tangs are right around 9.76mm. Acceptable? repairable?
thanks,
Mike

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.

> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.

[Patrick Hayes]

On 3/30/2013 5:00 PM, Mike Peavey wrote:
> Patrick, so with the wear in the cutouts in my flywheel that mate to
> the pinion gear tangs, there was about .3mm to .4mm of slop compared
> to the tangs on the pinion gear. cutouts measure 10.1mm and the tangs
> are right around 9.76mm. Acceptable? repairable?

No expertise here. Jerry Kimberlin might know. There is quite a bit of
linear spring force behind that gear once the flywheel is installed.
Because it is helical cut, it is going to have to push in against the
spring in order to move circularly within the slop. I doubt it is a
factor. I don't know if a design spec exists.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Jerome Kimberlin]

I don't know either. It's just a dog coupling and these things are not
terribly tight in the first place. I'd think that 0.3-0.4 mm is OK in
this application. I suppose you could Google "dog clutch backlash" or
"dog coupling specs" and you might find something more.

JerryK

[Mike Peavey]

Thank you both, I'll lock it down and proceed.

[Alan Comfort]

My Astore has a similar amount of clearance in this interface. It has gone about 2500 miles without issues.
Alan in Vancouver

[Buzz Kanter]

Please Help Me Better Understand My Airone.

I have a 1955 Moto Guzzi airone militaire. I have the owner's manual but do not speak Italian. I have been working on and riding my bike for a couple of years (including two Moto-Giro USA competitions)  but still have many questions about how best to maintain it. 

1. Oil recommendations? I am told straight weight 30 or 40 mineral oil. Does it really matter if is it 30 or 40 or a 10-40 weight?

2. To change the oil I drain the oil tank under the gas tank. Is this sufficient or do other recommend draining the oil lines too?

3. I add the fresh oil to the oil tank filler. I have been using 10-30 or 10-40 mineral oil and it seems to be OK. 

4. I do open the small drain bolt almost behind the exposed flywheel.

5. Please explain to me the two small filler bolts above the transmission, just aft of the flywheel. Do I add oil to either or both of these? I believe I was told one or both of these are for cleaning the clutch plates. How would this work - details please.

6. Recommendations on lubricating the front forks? Does lubing it through the grease fittings suffice? 

7. Anything else I need to be aware of (besides the obvious items like greased and adjusted drive chain, tire pressure, etc).

Thanks,

Buzz Kanter

[Patrick Hayes]

On 4/2/2013 11:22 AM, Buzz Kanter wrote:
> 1. Oil recommendations? I am told straight weight 30 or 40 mineral
> oil. Does it really matter if is it 30 or 40 or a 10-40 weight?

Oil threads are full of opinions. I think 30 is perhaps too thin. 40
or even 50. There is no oil filter as such. Multi-grade oils have
detergents to keep impurities in suspension for filtration. I think you
want to stick with single grad.

> 2. To change the oil I drain the oil tank under the gas tank. Is this
> sufficient or do other recommend draining the oil lines too?

If it is a running bike, then siphoning out the tank is probably
adequate. The scavenge pump keeps oil out of the sump. If it sits a
long time there might be oil in the sump. If necessary to drain the
sump, just remove the short, 90-degree oil line below and behind the oil
pump. You'd have to be REALLY anal to remove and blow out all the oil
lines. The risk to compression threads is way more than the risk of a
small percentage of old oil. Oil is cheap in comparison to parts and
labor. If you are concerned, just do it more frequently and the
contamination from oil in the lines becomes diluted and inconsequential.

> 4. I do open the small drain bolt almost behind the exposed
> flywheel.

That is only for draining the clutch chamber. Some oil gets out here
and there is no way for it to get back into the motor. Eventually it
will leak from the crankshaft hole in the left cover. Time to drain and
clean.

> 5. Please explain to me the two small filler bolts above the
> transmission, just aft of the flywheel. Do I add oil to either or
> both of these? I believe I was told one or both of these are for
> cleaning the clutch plates. How would this work - details please.

One hole is for adding mineral spirits to wash off the clutch parts.
The other is merely an access cap for the crankcase breather. The
breather consists of a steel ball bearing. Under pressure, the ball
lifts and relieves. Gravity drops it back down. If you pull its cap
you will likely see a very shiny 'ding' in the middle of the cap to show
where the ball is occasionally striking it. See the further tutorial below.

> 6. Recommendations on lubricating the front forks? Does lubing it
> through the grease fittings suffice?

Go easy on the grease. Use a heavy formula but not much of it. It
eventually will degrade and leak down the stanchions. There is also
internal oil but that is for damping, not lubrication. Unless you have
tipped the bike upside down, the damping oil is still in there.

> 7. Anything else I need to be aware of (besides the obvious items
> like greased and adjusted drive chain, tire pressure, etc).

The original design used a crossing passage from the clutch chamber back
over to the chain. Mist created an automatic oiler. Now that quality
sprays are available, most consider tapping and blocking that passage
hole to reduce chain mess.


BUZZ, here is a pictorial tutorial I did several years back. This is
for SuperAlce. Some of the parts shape and orientation will be slightly
different, but the engineering design idea is consistent among the
models. The pictures are still active.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Several people are currently experiencing noisy gear change action and
poor clutch performance on cold starts. Time for a refresher on the
clutch design and the required periodic method of bathing the parts.

The Guzzi-Single clutch is composed of a stacked sandwich of 5 steel and
5 bronze plates. The steel plates are connected in their center to the
clutch fixed body hub on the primary shaft of the transmission. The
bronze plates are connected at their perimeter to the gear-like outer
body basket. There may be one or two friction material rings installed
at the base of this stack as well. The outer body basket may run on a
continuous core bushing or it may have a packet of loose rollers. All
of these options depend on which model and year you have, but the
multi-plate design and basic operation are all the same.

Here are pictures of a used plate stack and a fresh stack already
installed into my SuperAlce.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-719X.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-718X.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-720X.jpg

When the clutch is bound by its spring, the stack of plates and all of
the clutch components rotate as an intact, unit mass. When you pull on
the clutch handle, the spring pressure is countered or relieved and the
various pieces are released and allowed to move independently. In
theory, the stacked sandwich parts should all slip smoothly over each
otther so that the outer body remains spinning with the motor, while the
inner body remains stationary. This allows you to remain in gear with
the engine running.

In addition to these parts, there is a small passage at the top of the
crankcase which allows for a fine mist of air and engine oil to pass
from the crankcase chamber to the exterior clutch chamber.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-723X.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-724X.jpg
(the zip tie is in place just to demonstrate the oil passage route)

This mist of oil lubricates all the parts in the clutch chamber,
including the plates, and eventually condenses into a puddle in the
clutch chamber. It is a total loss system. There is no way for this oil
to get back into the engine case. Eventually, this condensed puddle
grows to the level that the bottom of the clutch parts are sitting in a
pool of oil and any further excess starts to leak out behind the
flywheel where the crankshaft passes through the clutch chamber. There
is no seal for this passage. This blue tape represents the maximum
depth of oil puddle within the clutch chamber before it will simply pour
out the crankshaft hole.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-722X.jpg

Guzzi didn't want to waste this oil mist, so there is also a
crossing passage which goes from the clutch chamber back to the right
side in the vicinity of the chain drive sprocket. Some of the oil mist
works its way out over here and drips onto the chain as an automatic
oiler. Clever, but messy. Many of us plug that cross passage to reduce
the mess and we then relay on modern chain sprays. You can see my plug
here.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-717X.jpg

Warm, thin, clean oil is a very nice substance to put onto the clutch
plates. It lubricates everything for smooth action and minimizes wear.
However, cold, dirty oil acts more like a glue than a lubricant and
prevents free action of the plates. The various clutch pieces all bind
together and fail to slip as intended. It can become very noisy to
shift gears, especially down into first gear. The noise also produces
damage to the tips of the gear teeth. The COMPLETE CURE is to fully
disassemble the entire clutch package and clean all the parts to new
condition.

The INTERMEDIATE MAINTENANCE solution is the BATHE the clutch parts to
remove any oil or dirt or wear material and restore original action.
Here is the procedure. It will be a VERY messy job so protect your
floor and be prepared for hazardous disposals.

First, at the lower rear curve of the clutch cover plate, there will be
a small, slotted screw-plug. Remove that to drain away all of the
condensed puddle of oil. Here is the drain plug at the lower rear of
the clutch cover.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-721X.jpg

Flipping the cover over, you may be able to see the interior tip of this
drain plug at the lower left.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-722X.jpg

Second, at the top of the left side crankcase you will find an engine
breather tube which returns crankcase pressure and oil mist back to the
oil reservoir tank. Adjacent to that breather tube is a slotted plug
which leads directly to the clutch chamber below.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-723X.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t61/pehayes/superalce/MVC-724X.jpg
(the zip tie is in place just to demonstrate the oil passage route)

Third, introduce a pint of 'paint thinner' into the clutch chamber via
the upper plug. If you put too much, it will simply run out the opening
behind the flywheel.

CAUTION: In America, paint thinner is also known
as mineral spirits. It is a good solvent, but not particularly volatile
or harsh to painted surfaces. In Europe however, the term 'paint
thinner' refers to something Americans call lacquer thinner. This
latter material is highly flammable and an instant paint remover and
should NOT be used for this cleaning purpose. In a pinch, you can use
gasoline. But please don't smoke while working.

Fourth, push the kickstarter repeatedly. While doing so, pull on the
clutch handle slightly so that the engine does not turn over but the
kickstarter does go through full throw. In this way, the kickstarter
will be rotating the inner body and steel plates, while engine
compression will be holding back the external body and bronze plates.
The paint thinner will remove oil, grime, and wear contaminants from the
clutch parts and drop them into the bottom of the clutch chamber cover.
Do this kicking and feathering for several minutes.

Fifth, remove the plug at the rear lower corner of the clutch cover and
drain away the contaminated paint thinner. Although dirty, it might be
useful for other rough part washing tasks around your shop. Let it
settle for a week so you can decant the liquid off of the settled sludge.

Sixth, repeat steps three through five, perhaps a total of three rinse
cycles.

Seventh, clean up your mess and go for a ride. It will likely be
several months or a year before you need to repeat this procedure
depending on your miles driven.

As a TEMPORARY AID before you have an opportunity to perform the more
involved bathing or disassembly tasks you can assist the releasing of
the cold clutch plates. You will generally find that shifting from
neutral into second gear is a lot easier than shifting down into first.
So, on a cold started motor, shift into second. Gently rev the motor
slightly, and, while holding the hand or foot brake, feather release the
clutch handle a few times so that you force a slippage of the plates
several times. Do this almost to the point of stalling the motor. This
will quickly heat the oil film which is binding the plates and the
underlying components. You may now be able to return to idle and more
quietly shift into first gear.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[Guzz...@aol.com]

Buzz......most of the guys use a straight wt. oil from what I've gathered. I use 20w50 because it's more available in my area and I'm cheap. There is the filter or screen inside your oil tank that screws out you may want to check. And you can flush the tank out better with that removed. When I change oil I remove all lines and drain any residual that might be left behind. And I go as far as to tilt the bike to the side to drain as much as I can from the crankcase.

 

The small bolt behind the flywheel is there to drain any accumulation from the misting that chamber gets from the crankcase.  Usually only about a teaspoon or so comes out if any.The manual says to wash out the clutch plates by putting some mineral spirits in that top hole and kick over the engine at the same time to wash off the plates. Then drain out that from the small hole behind the flywheel. The manual contradicts it's self in one breath says it should be a dry clutch and then says add an ounce of oil when done. I don't add any, I let the breather do it for me.  I have only washed my clutch when it starts to get grabby or feels like it's slipping.

 

I have yet to do a full fork service. There are fork seals so I'm only guessing there is fork oil of some kind. I have cleaned my concentric blocks of there old grease though to keep them happy. You can pull the covers off easy enough to check the condition of the grease.

 

Other than the normal wear & tear maintenance you know about this is all I can think of for now. Others will chime in to fill in the blanks and or make corrections.

 

 

,,,,,,,Tim

 

In a message dated 4/2/2013 1:22:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time, buzzk...@gmail.com writes:

Please Help Me Better Understand My Airone.

I have a 1955 Moto Guzzi airone militaire. I have the owner's manual but do not speak Italian. I have been working on and riding my bike for a couple of years (including two Moto-Giro USA competitions)  but still have many questions about how best to maintain it. 

1. Oil recommendations? I am told straight weight 30 or 40 mineral oil. Does it really matter if is it 30 or 40 or a 10-40 weight?

2. To change the oil I drain the oil tank under the gas tank. Is this sufficient or do other recommend draining the oil lines too?

3. I add the fresh oil to the oil tank filler. I have been using 10-30 or 10-40 mineral oil and it seems to be OK. 

4. I do open the small drain bolt almost behind the exposed flywheel.

5. Please explain to me the two small filler bolts above the transmission, just aft of the flywheel. Do I add oil to either or both of these? I believe I was told one or both of these are for cleaning the clutch plates. How would this work - details please.

6. Recommendations on lubricating the front forks? Does lubing it through the grease fittings suffice? 

7. Anything else I need to be aware of (besides the obvious items like greased and adjusted drive chain, tire pressure, etc).

Thanks,

Buzz Kanter

[Rick]

Some of my thoughts on choosing an oil…..

I like to base things on whatever the manufacturer recommended. Reasons are simple. That is what the engine was designed for and despite what modern oil technology has come about, the engine, unless rebuilt to modern clearances and materials hasn’t changed in what it needs to survive. In 1955 I don’t believe multi-vis oils had been developed yet and as such the engines were not built to run them. Doesn’t mean you can’t run them but the advantages of a multi-vis oil had not yet been taken into account. Most likely if the manufacturer had designed the engine for straight 40w, a 10w-40 may not necessarily be good.

On the other hand a straight 40w or 50w in an engine designed for a 20w-50 may also be detrimental. A month or two ago there was a discussion on the Ducati Bevelheads list where I know some of you also reside at. A member posted something about how a heavier grade of oil than what is recommended could actually cause ball and roller bearings to skid. Much like how a boat has to push its way through the water a ball or roller bearing has to push through oil. It’s not hard to visualize how too thick of an oil will try to keep the bearing from rolling.

 

Rick Yamane

Motion Pro Inc.

We Ride! We Wrench! We Race!

867 American St.

San Carlos, CA 94070

(650)594-9600

(650)594-9610 Fax

ri...@motionpro.com

www.motionpro.com

 

        

 

      

 

 

 

---

[Alan Comfort]

It is my view that bikes without oil filters should run with straight grade, non-detergent mineral based oil that is changed frequently. I run 30W in the winter, and 50W in the summer. When I bought my Astore with a failed big end, the cause of the failure was apparent. The sludge trap and oil ways in the crankshaft were packed solid with a material that resembled hardened clay. No oil was getting past that blockage.

Alan in Vancouver

[James Francis]

Alan,

 

What brand is the non-detergent 50wt ?

 

Thanks

Wicker Francis

[Buzz Kanter]

Wonderful info. After reading through this I now have a MUCH greater understanding of the oiling and clutch operation. And I can stop trying to fill the clutch chamber through the small top filler :-) 

No wonder I was getting so much oil out of the small drain behind the flywheel. I plan to try Patrick's method of cleaning the clutch plates with American paint thinner. It might help the shifting smooth out.

Thanks to all. 

This modern Moto Guzzi sure is different in design to the old Harleys and Indians I ride and wrench on most of the time.

Buzz

[Gordon de la Mare]

Just a short note on oil.

I tend to use either Silkolene Donnington straight 40 non-detergent or Morris Golden Film 40 Classic but both seem to only be available in UK/EU.

.

The rationale for non or low detergent oil is nicely written upon the Morris website:

Golden Film Classic Oils are recommended for use in veteran, classic and vintage cars, motorcycles, commercial vehicles and tractors, where engine design and tolerances prohibit the use of modern multigrade, high additive level oils. Modern dispersant additives keep combustion chamber contamination suspended in the lubricant, allowing full flow cartridge filters to remove it. Early oil filtration, usually in the form of a mesh gauze or strainer, is not efficient enough to remove this suspended material. Golden Film Oils are low dispersant oils and allow the suspended matter to drop harmlessly into the sump. 

Cheers

Gordon

---

From: Buzz Kanter <buzzk...@gmail.com>
To: guzzi-...@googlegroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, 2 April 2013, 22:19
Subject: Re: [guzzi-singles] Finally,

[Don West]

Ihave never tried it myself but this has been recommended by others to translate pdf manuals to English.  Let us know if it works

http://www.labnol.org/internet/tools/translate-pdf-word-documents-online-google-translate/3553/

Might help with understanding the original Italian manual.

Don

---

From: Buzz Kanter <buzzk...@gmail.com>
To: guzzi-...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, 2 April 2013, 19:22
Subject: Re: [guzzi-singles] Finally,

[Buzz Kanter]

Thanks. Anyone have any suggestions on sources of non-detergent 40 weight oils here in the US?

[Pollorey]

http://www.amazon.com/Accel-22242-SAE-Non-Detergent-Motor/dp/B0052KY266/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1364953823&sr=1-3&keywords=Non-Detergent+Motor+Oil+40w

All the best,

Phil

[Alan Comfort]

About fifteen years ago i bought a 30 gallon steel drum of Elf 50 W oil from a local distributor who was closing out. I am still working my way through that. I also bought some cases of semi synthetic oiI at the same time. I never thought i would get through it all, but it is now getting low. it turns out to have been a good investment.

I believe that PureGuard still sells 5 gallon pails and I am pretty sure that I have seen a heavy duty diesel in-house brand of non-detergent motor oil at Canadian Tire. It has been some years since I have been in a Harley shop, but I recall seeing some straight grade oils on the shelf at that time. They may not carry that sort of thing anymore.

Regards, Alan in Vancouver

[Guzz...@aol.com]

Morris Golden oil advertises in motorcycle classics magazine ..........804-261-4140 or email at

classico...@aol.com 

 

 

Tim

 

Alan in Vancouver

On 2013-03-30, at 5:53 PM, Jerome Kimberlin wrote:

On 3/30/2013 5:13 PM, Patrick Hayes wrote:
>
>
> On 3/30/2013 5:00 PM, Mike Peavey wrote:
>> Patrick, so with the wear in the cutouts in my flywheel that mate to
>> the pinion gear tangs, there was about .3mm to .4mm of slop compared
>> to the tangs on the pinion gear. cutouts measure 10.1mm and the tangs
>> are right around 9.76mm.   Acceptable? repairable?
>
> No expertise here.  Jerry Kimberlin might know.  There is quite a bit of linear spring force behind that gear once the flywheel is installed. Because it is helical cut, it is going to have to push in against the spring in order to move circularly within the slop.  I doubt it is a factor.  I don't know if a design spec exists.

I don't know either.  It's just a dog coupling and these things are not terribly tight in the first place.  I'd think that 0.3-0.4 mm is OK in this application.  I suppose you could Google "dog clutch backlash" or "dog coupling specs" and you might find something more.

JerryK

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

--
American Iron Magazine

Motorcycle Bagger

RoadBike

Classic American Iron

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
American Iron Magazine

Motorcycle Bagger

RoadBike

Classic American Iron

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Guzzi Singles" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 

--
American Iron Magazine

Motorcycle Bagger

RoadBike

Classic American Iron

--

[DENIS BELOTTI]

Hi Patrick

Just a quick question about the front forks for my 1958 Falcone.
I have greased the forks but when I drive over a bump in the road it bangs
when the forks drop down.
It is quite a loud noise and it concerns me.
Is there a reason for this and what is a possible solution?

Regards
Denis Belotti
E-mail: den...@internext.co.za

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Guzzi Singles" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>

> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 8186 (20130402) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>


__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8186 (20130402) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

[Alan Comfort]

Have you checked the oil level in the hydraulic dampers?

[Mike Peavey]

Aeroshell makes straight mineral oil for aircraft engines in SAE 30, 40, 50&60 weight, with alleged no additives what so ever. One wonders, but of course aircraft engines live most of their lives turning 2000-2800rpm., but still air-cooled. 

Normally if something is aviation related, you add $$$$ to the cost, but this isn't bad.

 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshelloils6.php?clickkey=9079

I'll ask the guys in the maintenance shop, one of whom, has older bikes and get his take.

Mike

[James Francis]

 

This product does not have detergents since it’s formulated for non-combustion applications and may be more readily available from a Mobil distributor. 

 

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENINDMOMobil_DTE_Named.aspx

 

Note the reference to roller bearings and anti foaming properties.

 

Wicker Francis

 

 

[Nick Thomas]

I've been messing with my forks recently and had a similar problem. At the very top of the forks there's a secondary spring. it sits on a nut on that long damper bolt. According to the manual diagram you need to hold that spring between the fork caps and the nut. So if the nut is too far down there's more play and the springs bang around while you're driving.

I'd be interested in other's experience, but I can't find any way to check the fluid level without getting the forks apart and out of the bike. And you will probably mess up your seals doing this so have a set handy before you start. As far as I can tell the whole idea of easily measuring the oil level with a ruler while the forks are inside the fork tubes is fiction.

-Nick

[DENIS BELOTTI]

Hi Alan
Could you please guide me through it?
Regards
Denis

> signature database 8188 (20130403) __________

>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8188 (20130403) __________

[Guzz...@aol.com]

Nick,,,,,,,, most modern bikes now have a tool with a rod on it you adjust that measures fork oil now. Not a measured amount number listed in the manual like in the old says. So I used a length of wire and keep poking it in until I see oil on the wire. Then measure the wire. With the forks empty pour oil in until it hits the wire again. Keep track of the amount poured in for future reference.

 

,,,Tim

[ne...@mindspring.com]

What I'm saying is that you can't measure the oil level without removing the damper.  And you can't remove the damper without disassembling the forks, and that messes up the seals.  The manual make it look like you can just unscrew the top cap and check the oil level.  You can't.

-----Original Message-----
From: Guzz...@aol.com
Sent: Apr 3, 2013 9:14 AM
To: guzzi-...@googlegroups.com

[Alan Comfort]

Hello Denis,
Remove the acorn nut at the top of the fork. Unscrew the fork cap and remove it with the rebound spring. If the rebound spring has separated from the cap, that could be the source of the noise. It is held in place with an internal washer and a nut on the damper rod. You will need to make a tube spanner* to unscrew the internal plug and slowly unscrew the damper body so that the oil does not spill inside the fork leg. When the damper body is out, you can measure the oil level with a stiff wire. It should be 26-28 cm from the bottom of the sliding leg in the Astore, i am not sure if it is the same. You will need a piece of tubing to e add the oil to ensure that it does not run between the sliding leg and the fork tube. Slowly introduce the damper body to the sliding leg so the oil does not escape.
I am going from memory here, so it might not be in order, but when you get going on this, it will become obvious.
Regards, Alan in Vancouver
*The tube spanner can be made by cutting some small tabs of the appropriate size and depth into the end of a pipe that fits into the fork tube, and drilling a hole at the other end for a tommy bar. if you shine a light into the fork tube, you will be able to see the pattern. I made mine from a 1-1/8" deep socket using a Dremel tool.

[DENIS BELOTTI]

Thanks Alan
Much appreciated.

> signature database 8191 (20130404) __________

>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8191 (20130404) __________

[DENIS BELOTTI]

Hi Patrick

I need to flush out my clutch chamber and would like to know what kind and
how much oil needs to be added into the clutch chamber.

Regards
Denis Belotti

----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Hayes" <peh...@comcast.net>
To: <guzzi-...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 2013 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [guzzi-singles] Finally,


>
>

> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Guzzi Singles" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to guzzi-single...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to guzzi-...@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/guzzi-singles?hl=en.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
>
>

> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 8186 (20130402) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8280 (20130429) __________

[Alan Comfort]

None. You will get a small amount of oil through the felt seal during normal operations. When it becomes excessive, then it is time to drain and flush.
If you forget to turn off the oil petcock and the engine wet sumps, then you will get excessive oil in the clutch chamber and the clutch will slip.Again, time to drain and flush
Alan in Vancouver

[DENIS BELOTTI]

Thanks Alan
Much appreciated.
Denis Belotti
South Africa

> signature database 8282 (20130430) __________

>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 8282 (20130430) __________

[Mac Dennis]

Denis,

You only need a small amount of clean gas or paint thinner/mineral spirits maybe 8 oz/100ml
So you pour a small amount in from the top, kit it a few times then drain and do it again.

I don't like the idea of too much fluid only to have it wick back into the transmission
and would never let it sit in there for a long a time.

Mac

Mac Dennis
capr...@fastmail.fm