[GMCnet] Rear Disk Brakes
rhusak
Hi All..
I have been fighting with the rear brakes on my coach for as long as I have owned it.. I have never been happy with the brakes and it looks like I may be ready to take the next step.
I am considering putting disk brakes on at least one axle of the rear of my coach. From what I have been able to gather the rear wheels do not add that much to the overall braking of the coach. My brakes currently suck 8o so I may start with one axle and do the second if it is warranted.
I have looked at the Harrison kit (expensive but the largest capacity) Jim K's.. It is available for all 4 rears and looks like a good kit About 1/2 the cost of the Harrison kit per axle). And saw the TSM manufacturing kit that looks like it may be about the same as Jim k's but it is available with several options and can be bought per axle.
Many of you have experience with any of these? Do you need to keep or add the prop valve to the system?
Any real world experience would really be appreciated.
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
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Jim White
What I know about TZE brakes is that there are so many components that
effect stopping ability that no one change will guarantee much
improvement. You need to either correct all of the key components or do
enough testing to be able to correct just the weakest link. That is
very difficult to do BTW.
When I asked the experts at the Harrington Convention why my coach
wouldn't stop very well, I received a different answer from each
person. I even got two contradictory answers from one vendor two days
apart.
After cruising through a stop sign at the intersection of two US
highways with both feet on the brake, I drove straight to Leigh
Harrison's house, parked it in his front driveway and said let's fix it.
We replaced the master cylinder, the sensitized booster, upgraded the
front calipers & pads, installed new front rotors, and then I installed
his 12.5" rotors kit on the center axle.
Could I have done less and still been able to stop? Maybe, but as I
disassembled the front I found a pad worn to the metal and a failed
bearing so I did a complete front end upgrade with Lenzi's good stuff
and Leigh's better brakes on the front. The coach still wouldn't stop
that well so we replaced the master cylinder and booster. While that
was being done, I installed the 12.5" kit on the center axle, and when
we tested it, that heavy hog stopped very responsively. I also
installed a vacuum pump so that I have brakes after the engine stalls.
Already proved to be a very nice feature.
According to an article by Frank Cosmos, the 12.5" rotors have superior
stopping ability over any other disc upgrade. (I'll email you the
chart) I'm sure that Chuck's reaction arm kit would make it even better
in panic stops but I avoid those panic stops by applying the brakes
early and continuously since the hotter they get the better they seem to
stop with the metallic brake shoes and pads.
I am very happy with this set up and I see no reason to put disc on the
rear axle and then spend another $ 500 for a replacement parking brake.
HTH-
Jim "Doc" White
Wintergreen, VA
75 GMC Stretch- (that stops pretty darn good for a heavy hog)
rhusak wrote:
> Hi All..
> I have been fighting with the rear brakes on my coach for as long as I have owned it.. I have never been happy with the brakes and it looks like I may be ready to take the next step.
> I am considering putting disk brakes on at least one axle of the rear of my coach. From what I have been able to gather the rear wheels do not add that much to the overall braking of the coach. My brakes currently suck 8o so I may start with one axle and do the second if it is warranted.
> I have looked at the Harrison kit (expensive but the largest capacity) Jim K's.. It is available for all 4 rears and looks like a good kit About 1/2 the cost of the Harrison kit per axle). And saw the TSM manufacturing kit that looks like it may be about the same as Jim k's but it is available with several options and can be bought per axle.
> Many of you have experience with any of these? Do you need to keep or add the prop valve to the system?
> Any real world experience would really be appreciated.
> Ron
>
Thomas Phipps
My coach has the TSM mid-wheel disk brakes. As a point of GMC history, this coach was the one that TSM did as the first one for Bill Harvey, GMC Western States. Their site had a write-up that he did on the process.
They work, it stops. I did change to JmK yellow front pads to help handle the heat coming down from Flagpole Knob, VA, After 3.5 miles down hill on un-improved mountain fire trails, they do heat up a little.
Tom Phipps,
75 GMC Ex-Avion
Bob Mahowald
Jim,
It sounds like overheating the brakes and boiling the brake fluid is a possibility with rear disc brakes resulting in diminished brakes.
Have you ever experienced this?
Do you do enough mountain driving to say this is not an issue?
Thanks,
Bob Mahowald
75 Glenbrook
LYNN LAYCOCK
Ron. the first thing you have to realize is that you are re- designing a complete brake system. I have changed to an all disc system with a custom hydroboost unit and a p30 master cylinder that is capable of applying close to 2000 lbs. of hydraulic pressure to each disc. My GMC stops like a van now and the white knuckle stuff with 2 legs on the pedal are long gone. There is so much good info on the conversion on this site and some excellent photos and parts required lists at b dubs place that I will only briefly describe my system. I am using 80 mm calipers on the front end, 2.9 inch calipers on the mid axle and 2.5 inch cadillac rear calipers on the rear axles. I tried many combinations and sizes on the rear and found this to work the best with the volume output of the master cylinder. Good luck and do your research well before you start. If I had been able to attend some of the rallys before I started the project and talked to more of the knoweledgable folks on this site,
I"m sure it would have saved me a lot of time and money.
Lynn
Jim White
There are several aspects to consider concerning brake overheating.
Yes- I live in the mountains but hasn't been an issue since upgrading.
(Google Wintergreen Resort VA)
Yes- I drive in the mountains. Drove round trip through West Virginia
to the Lexington & Elkhart Rallies with no brake overheating issue. They
aren't the freakin Rockies but they are the tallest we have around here.
IMO-Pad & shoe overheating is probably more likely an issue than fluid
boil, if you are using a good DOT 4 brake fluid. Changing it yearly and
bleeding it regularly is very important for sustained performance.
I used ATE Super Blue which has a boiling point of 536 dry and 392 wet.
It doesn't absorb moisture as much as other fluids so the wet point is
not as much an issue as with DOT 3 or other DOT 4.
If a GMC driver is heating brake fluid up beyond 500 degrees, they might
want to consider modifying their driving style in hills and mountains.
JMHO-
Jim "Doc" White
Wintergreen, VA
75 GMC Stretch- (which stops responsively on downhill grades)
********************
Dan Gregg
You can test your fluid's boiling point coming down from Bert and Fay's place. I now know what mine is. :d
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
///Halon Automatic Fire Extinguishers
rhusak
Hi All..
Lots of really good info...
I should have mentioned what I have already done...
80 mm Front Calipers
Sensitized Brake booster (Twice it was changed due to poor brakes)
New Master Cyl. (3 times due to replacements leaking)
All New Brake flex hoses all wheels
New Combo Valve
Auxiliary vacuum pump (really needed here at high altitude)
All new rear wheel cyls.. In 2 different sizes as recommend)
All new shoes.
So I think I have been down the proper upgrade path but still brakes suck! I almost wrecked the coach on I25 on the way to the Pueblo rally.
I wanted to do the rear disks as I tow a vehicle with a brake buddy (My brakes are much better then) And I deal with steep mountain passes all the time..
The rear disks should dissipate heat much better from the downhill side of the passes..
A Power Master electrical system was mentioned.. Where is that available.. Any place I have looked they are NLA. This is something I have also looked at..
Again.. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel (or the brakes in my case) But none of the normal stuff has helped..
Oh and yes I have pressure bled, Gravity bled and adjusted them a hundred times.. But the brakes still suck! I have even tried a set of Jim's "Yellow" pads.. I wore them in about 6000 miles.. I think that the fronts are really overworked..
That is where I am at and really could use the advice.. :cry:
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
Jim White
Since you have already upgrade some of the basics, you might want to
consider the following approach-
- If you did not up-size the MC, you might want to do that before you
install new disc brakes.
- You might want to replace the front pads with carbon metallic
Performance Friction Brakes pads # 0153.20 by Pinnacle Brake Technology.
When the weight shifts toward the front, those front pads do a lot of
the stopping and can heat up pretty fast.
- Reviewing the chart that I sent you off-net, upgrading the center axle
with 12.5" disc would provide you with an 80% solution for upgrading
brakes, since you have already upgraded the rear axle wheel cylinders.
If it then stops adequately, you avoided the cost of the rear axle kit
and also saved you the cost of installing a new parking brake.
With all of that savings you can buy more GMC goodies-
Jim "Doc" White
Wintergreen, VA
_________________
rhusak wrote:
> Hi All..
> Lots of really good info...
> I should have mentioned what I have already done...
> 80 mm Front Calipers
> Sensitized Brake booster (Twice it was changed due to poor brakes)
> New Master Cyl. (3 times due to replacements leaking)
> All New Brake flex hoses all wheels
> New Combo Valve
> Auxiliary vacuum pump (really needed here at high altitude)
> All new rear wheel cyls.. In 2 different sizes as recommend)
> All new shoes.
> So I think I have been down the proper upgrade path but still brakes suck! I almost wrecked the coach on I25 on the way to the Pueblo rally.
> I wanted to do the rear disks as I tow a vehicle with a brake buddy (My brakes are much better then) And I deal with steep mountain passes all the time..
> The rear disks should dissipate heat much better from the downhill side of the passes..
> A Power Master electrical system was mentioned.. Where is that available.. Any place I have looked they are NLA. This is something I have also looked at..
> Again.. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel (or the brakes in my case) But none of the normal stuff has helped..
> Oh and yes I have pressure bled, Gravity bled and adjusted them a hundred times.. But the brakes still suck! I have even tried a set of Jim's "Yellow" pads.. I wore them in about 6000 miles.. I think that the fronts are really overworked..
> That is where I am at and really could use the advice.. :cry:
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
Ken Henderson
calculations at:
http://gmcmotorhome.info/GMCBrakeCalcs.pdf
<http://gmcmotorhome.info/GMCBrakeCalcs.pdf>are essential reading before
doing brake modifications. Of particular interest is the "Clamping Force"
chart. That's what tells you how much sheer braking capacity you can
attain. But it can't be used blindly; for example, it shows that a 1-1/8"
Master Cylinder with 80 mm calipers will give you almost as much braking
force as a much more complex Hydroboost system with those same calipers.
But if you look back up the page at the MC piston travel required to supply
just two 80 mm calipers, you'll see that the 1-1/8" MC requires 0.784".
While it's difficult to find specifications for MC's, tests I did back in
'03 indicate that about 0.75" is the most travel we can expect. That says
the 1-1/8" MC cannot support two 80 mm calipers. Before anyone gets too
excited, remember that Dave's calculations are based on caliper travel of
0.050", an arbitrary, hopefully worst case, standard some of us agreed to
some years back for such calculations. IMHO it would be foolhardy to risk
running out of MC capacity with such a setup.
One big factor in favor of Leigh Harrison's brakes is the 12.5" rotors he
uses. Remembering that the amount of braking force "at the road" is
directly proportional to the radius of the rotor, with the same MC and
calipers, his brakes will produce 13.6% more braking force than with the
more common 11" OEM rotors. That's a BUNCH and is the one factor not
covered by Dave's calculations.
Ken H.
rhusak
Ken..
Damned.. You are a wealth of info!
It looks like the hydroboost is the hot number.. Anyone making them as a kit? What about the electric booster?
I was always planning to go with the larger master with the disk brakes..
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
Mr.erf ERFisher
> brakes are much better then) And I deal with steep mountain passes all the
> time..
> The rear disks should dissipate heat much better from the downhill side of
> the passes..
>
I have TSM - 70mm on all calipers -- 26 and 23 -- Higher clamping pressure
with OEM master cyl.
http://gmcmotorhome.info/brakes.html
I did this because my brakes would fade coming down the Grape vine in CA.
Now I don't think about it , no fade, but I do come down at the same speed I
go up ;>)
gene
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
Mr.erf ERFisher
http://gmcmotorhome.info/brakes.html#hydro
> It looks like the hydroboost is the hot number.. Anyone making them as a
> kit?
>
gene
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
Larry
Ron wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 11:34
> Hi All..
> Lots of really good info...
> I should have mentioned what I have already done...
> 80 mm Front Calipers
> Sensitized Brake booster (Twice it was changed due to poor brakes)
> New Master Cyl. (3 times due to replacements leaking)
> All New Brake flex hoses all wheels
> New Combo Valve
> Auxiliary vacuum pump (really needed here at high altitude)
> All new rear wheel cyls.. In 2 different sizes as recommend)
> All new shoes.
> So I think I have been down the proper upgrade path but still brakes suck! I almost wrecked the coach on I25 on the way to the Pueblo rally.
> I wanted to do the rear disks as I tow a vehicle with a brake buddy (My brakes are much better then) And I deal with steep mountain passes all the time..
> The rear disks should dissipate heat much better from the downhill side of the passes..
> A Power Master electrical system was mentioned.. Where is that available.. Any place I have looked they are NLA. This is something I have also looked at..
> Again.. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel (or the brakes in my case) But none of the normal stuff has helped..
> Oh and yes I have pressure bled, Gravity bled and adjusted them a hundred times.. But the brakes still suck! I have even tried a set of Jim's "Yellow" pads.. I wore them in about 6000 miles.. I think that the fronts are really overworked..
> That is where I am at and really could use the advice.. :cry:
> Ron
Ron,
When I brought my GMC home from Houston (to Wisconsin) I found my brakes exactly as you describe, I also coasted through a stop light with both feet on the brakes. So the first thing I went for when I got it home was brake upgrade. I did exactly as you described above with a modest improvement in braking, but not what I felt was up to my personal comfort level. On the advice of several on the net, I pulled off the new MC and sensitized booster. I then bought and installed a Power Master system, leaving the rest of the brakes (80mm calipers with performance friction pads, 15/16" rear and 1 1/16" WC's new hoses and carbon metallic shoes) alone. Now....on my coach...the PM made all the difference!! It now stops like a Modern PU truck with only a light touch on the brake pedal.
Here is a list of the Autos that this was available on:
MODELS AFFECTED:
1985 REGAL 3.8L TURBO (ENGINE VIN CODE 9) AND RPO LM9 BRAKES
1986-87 REGAL 3.8L TURBO (ENGINE VIN CODE 7)
1986 LESABRE AND ELECTR ESTATE WAGON
1986 CHEVROLET CAPRICE STATION WAGON
1986 PONTIAC PARISIENNE WAGON
1986 OLDSMOBILE CUSTOM CRUISER STATION WAGON
Part # for Buick Regal Turbo is 52-9702. Part # for the others is 52-9700.
The 9702 and 9700 are functionaly the same, but for some reason the 9700 is considerably cheaper.
You can find this at Autozone. Just pick one of the Station wagons above, create it as one of your vehicles at the AZ web site and search for it under brake parts, or search using the part #.
FWIW, this is where I found it:
http://tinyurl.com/yhds7se
At $440.00 it's not cheap, but was a fairly easy install. While this solution has worked well for me, there are some that would not do this. I would encourage those that see the disadvantages to using the PM, to post their reasons. I am *not* offended by this. Those interested in doing this need to know *everything* about what they are getting themselves into.
So...JWID
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Larry Davick
Was the Power Master a simple bolt-on + wiring?
I have those beautiful stainless brake lines from Tom Hampton, as well as larger front rotors, but my brakes are sometimes a two footed affair. I simply don't have the budget to go with what I want - Chuck's reaction arm set up. I saw the mock-up at Jim K's place and after scratching my head all afternoon I finally "got it!" Now I wish I had it...
I just know that I should search Gene's site, as there is probably a detailed discussion as to what to do, but I'm eating lunch at work, and I'm lazy!
Thanks,
Larry Davick
The Mystery Machine
Mr.erf ERFisher
http://gmcmotorhome.info/powermaster.html
larry was supposed to up date this, but--------
too much theater I think ;>)
gene
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
Larry Davick
Thanks, Gene - I've got some reading to do once I get home.
I wish I was able to go to the Port Costa rally this weekend, alas.
Larry Davick
Dan Gregg
I consider my stock brake system pretty good. I press and it stops. When I bought it I could not stop it. Just replaced the standard items and I got lucky.
But
They could be better. If I ever get the money I want to get Jim's rear disc setup and the reaction bar that Chuck has developed. I am interested in the testing of a non disc compared to a disc, and then with the reaction bar, in actual stopping feet. I am sure that will be forthcoming. Might be hard to keep them in stock once we see the difference.
Ron, I can not imagine the problems you have suffered with your brakes. Have you ever let one of the GMC pro's drive it and render an opinion? I realize that you KNOW it wont stop but maybe a brake guy could help you diagnose it. Just a thought. I will let you drive mine, if you want, at next rally and I would like to drive your's. Maybe my brakes are not as good as I think they are. You could tell me.
I paid a fella in Illinois a lot of money in 06. One thing I paid him for was to replace the brake lines. He replaced the one that shows when you look from under driver's side. Now, I will have to pay again to have it done right. Another story.
Dan
--
Dan & Teri Gregg
///Halon Automatic Fire Extinguishers
Rob Mueller
When you decide to replace the brake lines I would recommend you go see Tom
Hampton and have him install his stainless steel brake line kit and braided
stainless steel flex lines. That's the best and Tom WILL DO IT RIGHT!
Regards,
Rob Mueller
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion-The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion-Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist...@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Dan Gregg
Sent: Saturday, 14 November 2009 9:52 AM
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Rear Disk Brakes
Larry
ljdavick wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 14:49
> Larry,
>
> Was the Power Master a simple bolt-on + wiring?
>
> I have those beautiful stainless brake lines from Tom Hampton, as well as larger front rotors, but my brakes are sometimes a two footed affair. I simply don't have the budget to go with what I want - Chuck's reaction arm set up. I saw the mock-up at Jim K's place and after scratching my head all afternoon I finally "got it!" Now I wish I had it...
>
> I just know that I should search Gene's site, as there is probably a detailed discussion as to what to do, but I'm eating lunch at work, and I'm lazy!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry Davick
> The Mystery Machine
Please keep in mind that the PM is not the answer to all braking problems. It will *NOT* keep the rear axle from locking up on a hard stop (that's what the reaction arm is designed to do) and will not compensate for poor maintance of your fluid. Nor will it keep the brakes from fading if you overdrive the brakes going down a long mountain grade. As a result of the PM's design, it simply applies more pressure...than a stock system can...to the braking system for each pound of pressure that you exert to the brake pedal...giving you a lighter touch, and allowing application of enough pressure when you really hit it hard to...if you want to ...lock up all 6.
Your brake lines *MUST* be in top shape. If you lines are old and rusted, the extra pressure that the PM applies to the system could cause a line to burst...causing you to loose brakes...at a time when you may need brakes the most.
You need an adaptor that takes the place of the vacuum booster. Looks like this....
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4077
You also need to do the following wiring:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7904
Also the next three photos in that album.
The adaptor use to be available from Marvin Peck, but it is my understanding that he passed away several years ago and nobody has taken this over. (Correct me if I'm wrong)
I am working with a gentleman from the GMC Greater Midwest Classics who use to be a pattern maker. Did it all of his working life and spent some time teaching pattern making. Using Marvin Peck's casting, he and I have redesigned the adaptor and he is in the process of making several patterns with the intention of having it cast...(Provided that there is enough of a demand for the adaptor.) We found a foundry that is willing to to small jobs like this, and may try a couple to see how it pans out.
Stay tuned...hope to have something by next summer.
In the mean time you could make your own...see this...
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4450
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
rhusak
Larry..
Thanks for the reply..
I can't lock my brakes any of them even on the gravel I live on.. They are pita full!
In my original message I said I almost wrecked the coach on I25.. I stood on the brakes and had to head for the ditch! 8o
Where could I go to get the Powermaster itself? Actually the fellow who did the pictures you refer to is a member of the Mountaineers so I could call him about making one of the adapters for me..
I realize that this may really only mask what the real issue may be.. But I'll be damned if I know what else to do.. Sliding the rear brakes now is simply not possible..
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
Jim Kanomata
There must be poor rear brakes.
Those Yellow pads wear out as they are diong most of the work.
I realize that your living in mountainness area.
Get a pressure gage and see fhat your getting in the rear wheels.
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Jim Kanomata
Unless you install a gage to know that it is functioning and the power
is there, you'll be in for a surprise when you push down and it does
not respond. Minute later it is working again.
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Jim Kanomata
hubs, it becomes a concern.
We have had coupe people damage the hubs on a trip and needed to
replace them. The big problems was getting hold of the special
modified hubs.
If Lee is not around you'll need to wait over a week before you get
another one. I know they wer not happy about that.
I know that our 11' rotors can do very well and we encourage that you
run it on all and not on the center.
Our tests show that the drum brakes tend to heat up considerably
faster after few stops and become ineffective behing the center wheel
with the disc system. So now the disc ends up doing most of the work .
Consider what your going to get and the drawbacks and befits.
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Larry
Ron wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 20:43
> Larry..
> Thanks for the reply..
> I can't lock my brakes any of them even on the gravel I live on.. They are pita full!
> In my original message I said I almost wrecked the coach on I25.. I stood on the brakes and had to head for the ditch! 8o
> Where could I go to get the Powermaster itself? Actually the fellow who did the pictures you refer to is a member of the Mountaineers so I could call him about making one of the adapters for me..
> I realize that this may really only mask what the real issue may be.. But I'll be damned if I know what else to do.. Sliding the rear brakes now is simply not possible..
> Ron
Ron,
A couple of messages back I wrote this on where to get the PM: I got mine from Autozone. Didn't have a core, so had to pay the core charge. Also, I saw 3 of them for sale...used...at the Pueblo rally swap meet. Maybe come to the Montgomery rally this spring...I don't think he sold them.
> Here is a list of the Autos that this was available on:
>
> MODELS AFFECTED:
> 1985 REGAL 3.8L TURBO (ENGINE VIN CODE 9) AND RPO LM9 BRAKES
> 1986-87 REGAL 3.8L TURBO (ENGINE VIN CODE 7)
> 1986 LESABRE AND ELECTR ESTATE WAGON
> 1986 CHEVROLET CAPRICE STATION WAGON
> 1986 PONTIAC PARISIENNE WAGON
> 1986 OLDSMOBILE CUSTOM CRUISER STATION WAGON
>
> Part # for Buick Regal Turbo is 52-9702. Part # for the others is 52-9700.
>
> The 9702 and 9700 are functionaly the same, but for some reason the 9700 is
> considerably cheaper.
>
> You can find this at Autozone. Just pick one of the Station wagons above,
> create it as one of your vehicles at the AZ web site and search for it under
> brake parts, or search using the part #.
>
> FWIW, this is where I found it:
> http://tinyurl.com/yhds7se
>
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
rhusak
Larry..
How did I miss you in Pueblo????
I went to the swap meet but didn't notice the powermasters..
I guess you takes your chances with a used one..
I wonder what peoples experience is with the remans?
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
rhusak
Jim..
I figured that the swept area of the 4 11's would be a substantial improvement..
The reason I am even considering the electric set up is I am at my wit's end with the brakes.. Enough so that I almost went with an SOB...Recently.... But came to my senses and figured I would try one more time.. I will see if I can find a Gage and check the rear pressures.. You may recall I have your master and sensitized booster..and combo switch..
Do you still use that switch with the rear disks?
How does the line lock switch work?
Are you gonna be in tomorrow? If so I may call..
Ron
--
76 Eleganza II
Conifer, CO
rallymaster
ronc
> Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
Ron & Linda Clark
1978 Eleganza II
North Plains, ORYGUN
Larry
rallymaster wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 23:58
> do you remember who had them, Larry?
>
> ronc
If you mean...who had the used ones at the Pueblo rally...No, I stopped at his table briefly to look them over, spoke briefly with him, and moved on. Maybe someone here on the forum remembers.
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Larry
Ron wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 23:20
> Larry..
> How did I miss you in Pueblo????
> I went to the swap meet but didn't notice the powermasters..
> I guess you takes your chances with a used one..
> I wonder what peoples experience is with the remans?
> Ron
My PM is a Reman. Works fine. They actually stopped remanning them for a couple of years. Then Cardone picked it up...I think for the Buick Regal Turbo croud. All of a sudden they reappeared at AZ. I've seen them on Advanced auto, and O'reillys sites... also from Cardone.
If you do this, you really need to do the relay upgrade. The old points type system that was stock in them had some problems with reliability. JMHO
--
Larry :)
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Gene Dotson
Larry wrote on Sat, 14 November 2009 08:40
> rallymaster wrote on Fri, 13 November 2009 23:58
> > do you remember who had them, Larry?
> >
> > ronc
>
>
> If you mean...who had the used ones at the Pueblo rally...No, I stopped at his table briefly to look them over, spoke briefly with him, and moved on. Maybe someone here on the forum remembers.
If anyone is interested in a Power Master core, I have one and don't intend on using it. It is available for shipping charge or I can bring it to the Montgomery rally if anyone is interested.
--
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements
New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
Steve Southworth
shawnee wrote on Sat, 14 November 2009 08:41
> If anyone is interested in a Power Master core, I have one and don't intend on using it. It is available for shipping charge or I can bring it to the Montgomery rally if anyone is interested.
I'll take it. I'll contact you email.
--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150
Palmyra WI