[GMCnet] Door recurving

[Jeff Willard]

OK, I'm sitting here in the coach at my property in Pennsylvania hosting an "Open House". It's 33 degrees and raining... sort of, and I have a lot of time on my hands.

As I'm sitting here in the barrel chairs and the dogs are sleeping I'm seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.

Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame and get it tinted.
--
Jeff Willard
Silver City, NM
1973 ex-Glacier
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[Mr.erf ERFisher]

Here is a good one
http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/Recurving_Door/Recurving_Door.html

gene

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Ken Henderson]

Jeff,

I think Dan WInchester has photos on GMCMHPhotos. But the procedure is so
simple that I can describe it: In the door near the top and bottom of the
latch side, drill a 3/8" hole. In a 2x4 long enough to reach between the
two holes, drill 3/8" holes through the 4" dimension to line up with the
door holes. Either buy, or make from 5/16" all-thread rod, J-hooks to fit
into the door holes and through the 2x4, washers, and nuts. At the vertical
center of the 2x4 place a small bottle jack between the 2x4 and a protective
pad on the door. Jack in the curvature you want. Do it in stages so you
don't get too much curve.

I have some Ziebart plastic plugs which neatly seal the holes in the door
but they're very unobtrusive even if open.

You don't need to remove the window.

Worked really well for me several years ago and hasn't needed repeating.

After you've done that, get a new Bill Bramlett-designed striker from Burt &
Faye Curtis and you'll think you've got a new Cadillac door on there.

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com

On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 10:05 AM, Jeff Willard <jwil...@oac-inc.com> wrote:

>
>
> OK, I'm sitting here in the coach at my property in Pennsylvania hosting an
> "Open House". It's 33 degrees and raining... sort of, and I have a lot of
> time on my hands.
>
> As I'm sitting here in the barrel chairs and the dogs are sleeping I'm
> seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a
> serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but
> can't find them now.
>
> Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame
> and get it tinted.
> --
>
>

[Larry]

I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.

________________________________________________________________-

Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?

In reality, it is difficult to think that a door built as sturdy as your door would lose its shape.

You need to do some checking first before you attempt to bend the door beyound its oem specks.

These old gals have a syndrome called "Old Age Spread".

This "spread" is caused by the additional weight of the air cons on the roof and the owners periodically going up to check things out. The sides of the coach will ever slowly, spread out from the sides, causing the door to look like it needs a recurve but actually you need to pull the sides of the coach back in.

You can recurve the door but the coach will continue to bulge out and you will have to correct the sides sometime anyway.

try to get a measurement from the rear and front of the coach and compare to the mid section.

Try to measure the ceiling height from the front/ rear and mid section.

Do you bath doors hit the cabinet across the hall?

All a dead sign that the "Old Age Spread" has taken its toll.

LarC ( Thinking the drip guard over the door will stop the drips till spring when the sides can be pulled back in )

--
Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
74 GLACIER X, 260
455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
Remflex Manifold gaskets
_______________________________________________
Purchased 08-18-04

_

[Jeff Willard]

Thanks for the info. I to look like I have the middle age spread problem.... on the coach too. :?

I do have the problem of the bathroon door and closet doors hitting the opposite side wall, only at the bottom and the toe kick area on the closet side is "collapsed" somewhat.

Is there a proceedure for sucking the sides back in without guttign the interior?

--
Jeff Willard
Silver City, NM
1973 ex-Glacier

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

>
> Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?
>
>

if you want the whole enchilada, look here
http://users.sfo.com/~eagle/spread.html

gene

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

well another link bad, look here

http://gmcmotorhome.info/spread.html

even has an article from the "entertainer once known as Emery."

Or was that Prince?

gene

On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 7:48 AM, Mr.erf ERFisher <mr.er...@gmail.com>wrote:

>
>
>
>>
>> Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?
>>
>>
> if you want the whole enchilada, look here

> http://users.sfo.com/~eagle/spread.html<http://users.sfo.com/%7Eeagle/spread.html>

[Norm Bowker]

How about young age spread. The 3 year old EL2 with 20,000 mi. I bought in 1979 had this problem. The bath door hit on the drawers. With the fridge out I pulled the wall back with a come-along & 2 x 4's thru the kitchen window & a jack pushed the cabinet out & L bracketed to the ribs. Was still O.K. when I sold it 5 years later. The cabinet should have been attached more solid from the factory.
   Norm

[George Beckman]

jwillard wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 07&#58;05

> I'm seeing lots of light and water drips at the door. I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.
>
> Do you have to remove the window? I may do it anyway to restore the frame and get it tinted.

Before Emery Stora left the forum, I am "think" I heard him say something about considering taking the sag out of the coach. It may have been something I heard him say at Pueblo. I was not sure if he was describing how hard it is to recurve a door, or if there really is a way of taking the bulge out of a coach. Makes me see high tensile wires running back an forth, inside with jacks prying up the ceiling. *smile*

Here is actually how he does it, "Middle Age Spread":

http://gmcmotorhome.info/spread.html
--
'74 Eleganza SE

Best Wishes,

George

[Charles]

Gene,
Can you get a more direct address for the box seal.
One did not work and the other took me to multiple
listings.
Charles

[Charles]

Door Weather Seal
Here is a source for the box seal around the door
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=103322&outlet=
http://diymarine.com/diypages/weatherseal.asp

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mr.erf ERFisher" <mr.er...@gmail.com>
To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving

>

[Gary Casey]

The people on this list are great - every time I read about a new subject a light bulb goes on - "oh yeah, I've got that problem!" I was looking in the refrigerator bay and the roof vent (was that original or added?) was cut in the area of a transverse roof beam. They cut right through the beam to make the vent, even thought they could have avoided it. I'm wondering how or if I should repair the structural damage. And, of course, the bathroom door hits the cabinet on the other side. There is also about a 1-inch gap between the cabinet and the wall. Yet another project....
Gary

________________________________
From: Norm Bowker <bow...@rogers.com>
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Sun, December 13, 2009 9:06:10 AM

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

I saw that , I tried weather seal at westmarine, but I don't know if that
was the one or not....... hard to keep up

gene

On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 8:44 AM, Charles <gc...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Door Weather Seal
> Here is a source for the box seal around the door
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=103322&outlet=
> http://diymarine.com/diypages/weatherseal.asp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr.erf ERFisher" <mr.er...@gmail.com>
> To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
> Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 9:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving
>
>
> >
> > Have you checked to see WHY your door seems to have lost its shape?
> >
> >
> if you want the whole enchilada, look here

> http://users.sfo.com/~eagle/spread.html<http://users.sfo.com/%7Eeagle/spread.html>

[Bill Bryant]

"snip"

>I apparently need a serious re-curve. Somewhere I remember >seeing instructions for that but can't find them now.

_______________________________________________________________-
>

Check Service Bulletin 75-TM-19 for the original GMC fix. I have used it and it works well.

Using a template I have checked nearly 100 coaches at rallies over the years and found generally the 1973 & 74s to have the most significant bulge with the 78s being the closest to original design.

Checking high/low mileage and loaded/not loaded (roof pod vs no roof pod)did not measure a difference. Model year seemed to be the most significant difference.*

*70s assembly quality control likely a factor with furniture fit etc. :?
--
Bill Bryant
1976~PB
1914 Ford
1965 Corvette
GMC MH History CD
GMC Showroom Films DVD
http://bdub.net/billbryant/

[Jeff Willard]

Does anyone know the original dimensions for width and height at a particular location? I'm thinking that pulling it back in and then supporting the roof with something other than chip board cabinetry would be the trick.

A also looked at the pages for pulling in the sides. Since I don't have a Kitchen window that opens, how about taking the furnace out and using those vent holes for the left side 2x4's and cable? Thoughts?

--
Jeff Willard
Silver City, NM
1973 ex-Glacier

[Gary Worobec]

As the owner of a 73 both the coach and I have developed significant bulges
since 73 :)

Thanks

Gary and Joanne Worobec
1973 GMC Glacier

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Bryant" <brya...@earthlink.net>
To: <gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Door recurving

>
>

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

>
> A also looked at the pages for pulling in the sides. Since I don't have a
> Kitchen window that opens, how about taking the furnace out and using those
> vent holes for the left side 2x4's and cable? Thoughts?
>

jacking against a cement wall (on the out side) has been the most popular
;>)

gene

Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Rick Denney]

Gary Worobec writes...

> As the owner of a 73 both the coach and I have developed significant bulges
> since 73 :)

Heh. With the 23' coaches, I'm not so sure middle-aged spread can be
the cause of the door curvature problem. The hinge side of the door is
right at the cockpit bottom step, where the body frame has as much
strength as there is anywhere.

I need to straighten my door, and in studying the matter, I know why
the door needs it in the first place. My coach does not have limit
straps, and several times even during my ownership the door has been
slammed open up against the coach rub strip. That applies considerable
pressure right opposite where Dan Winchester's bottle jack would be
applied, having the opposite effect. If that's happened some hundreds
of times over 36 years, I can well imagine that the door is distorted
as a result.

In any case, all my interior bits have already been built to the
current shape, whatever caused it. I'm going to bend the door to
match.

Rick "taking the easy way" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

[Steven Ferguson]

Jeff,
A lot of that can be eliminated with readily available drip channel
that extends across the top of the door opening. A must for a GMC.

--
Steve Ferguson
'76 EII
Sierra Vista, AZ
Urethane bushing source
www.bdub.net/ferguson/

[Bill Bryant]

Rick Denney

Gary Worobec writes...

> As the owner of a 73 both the coach and I have developed significant bulges
> since 73 :)

Heh. With the 23' coaches, I'm not so sure middle-aged spread can be
the cause of the door curvature problem. The hinge side of the door is
right at the cockpit bottom step, where the body frame has as much
strength as there is anywhere.

I need to straighten my door, and in studying the matter, I know why
the door needs it in the first place. My coach does not have limit
straps, and several times even during my ownership the door has been
slammed open up against the coach rub strip. That applies considerable
pressure right opposite where Dan Winchester's bottle jack would be
applied, having the opposite effect. If that's happened some hundreds
of times over 36 years, I can well imagine that the door is distorted
as a result.

In any case, all my interior bits have already been built to the
current shape, whatever caused it. I'm going to bend the door to
match.

Rick "taking the easy way" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
>>

Rick,
Your reasoning sounds good to me. With that, I would expect the door latch side to need more of a recurving than the hinge side. Is that what you see?

Also as more detail to my previous note, in measuring the many GMCs I chose 3 positions on each side, front, rear and mid. The front and rear measurements were usually very close to the design shape, the center measurement was almost always "bulged". What was most interesting to me was that the drivers side was generally bulged as much as the passenger side. I had assumed that the door opening would cause more bulge on that side, usually both sides were nearly the same.

--
Bill Bryant
1976~PB
1914 Ford
1965 Corvette
GMC MH History CD
GMC Showroom Films DVD
http://bdub.net/billbryant/

[Larry]

The hinge side of the door is right at the cockpit bottom step, where the body frame has as much strength as there is anywhere.

______________________________________________________________

I know Mid Spread Syndrome can be caused by many things but I think you are right about the hinge side being strong. Mine is not too bad on the hinge side, however, the latch side is the weak point for my Glacier. Thats where the frig is and the access hatch was cut out.

Even if this is not a cause, this wall seems to have a weak point and the frig module was not connected very well.

I have an additional problem, as Rick D, The PO had covered the old panel with Oak Veneer and he cut to fit the new panel to meet the wall in its new position., a good 1/2" away from the original panel.

I can remove this panel since he did not glue very well, and trim to the walls new position when I can bring er back in. I need to do this because the modules have all moved toward the hall way.

Well, 30+ years does not give you a brand new house, does it?

LarC ( Thinking its gonna be a real busy Summer in 2010 )

--
Gatsbys' CRUISER :d
74 GLACIER X, 260
455/APC/4 bagg'r(ver3)
Remflex Manifold gaskets
_______________________________________________
Purchased 08-18-04

_

[Rick Denney]

Bill Bryant writes...

Bill, I haven't actually compared the two sides of the door. But it's
the hinge side on a 230 that is up against the edge of the front cap,
and the hinge side that bumps into the rub strip when the door is
slammed open. The door on the hinge side sits possibly a quarter inch
inboard from the door frame at the midpoint (i.e. rub strip), and I
think it's because slamming the door open flattens out the curve of
the door.

On the latch side, which is out in the middle of the body on a 230,
the door is flush at the midpoint but hangs out top and bottom. Going
on memory, I don't recall that the two door edges are different. It
may well be that being deformed by crashing into the rub strip affects
the door all the way across, though that seems unlikely. It could be a
mixture of effects.

I may have some spread, I many not. Doesn't matter at this point--the
door is easier to recurve than the body.

Rick "whose door isn't a perfect fit but it also doesn't leak" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

_______________________________________________

[Bill Bryant]

Rick,
> Your reasoning sounds good to me. With that, I would expect the
> door latch side to need more of a recurving than the hinge side. Is
> that what you see?

Bill, I haven't actually compared the two sides of the door. But it's
the hinge side on a 230 that is up against the edge of the front cap,
and the hinge side that bumps into the rub strip when the door is
slammed open. The door on the hinge side sits possibly a quarter inch
inboard from the door frame at the midpoint (i.e. rub strip), and I
think it's because slamming the door open flattens out the curve of
the door.

On the latch side, which is out in the middle of the body on a 230,
the door is flush at the midpoint but hangs out top and bottom. Going
on memory, I don't recall that the two door edges are different. It
may well be that being deformed by crashing into the rub strip affects
the door all the way across, though that seems unlikely. It could be a
mixture of effects.

I may have some spread, I many not. Doesn't matter at this point--the
door is easier to recurve than the body.

Rick "whose door isn't a perfect fit but it also doesn't leak" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
>>

Rick,
Sorry, scratch my previous answer,I didn't think my answer through. I had forgotten that the bump strips hit at the hinge side first.

Have to go now, need to get a retaining strap for my memory :?

--
Bill Bryant
1976~PB
1914 Ford
1965 Corvette
GMC MH History CD
GMC Showroom Films DVD
http://bdub.net/billbryant/

[Jeff Willard]

I have an awning on my coach that "should" act like a drip shield, but doesn't. A lot of air moves through there as well. Considering the other issues, like bathroom and closet doors not opening all the way etc, I think I'll try to skinnie the coach back up.
Since my whole house is concrete (I built it with an ICF called Polysteel) we'll give that a shot.

[Lance]

You u have to understand what is happening here to these old coaches. Years of bumpiny highways have taken their toll. Especially if you have higher mileage, a front A/C unit and especially if you go on your roof a lot. The coach has sagged at the door frame, being the weakest part of the coach body. You may explore jacking the roof up again. I saw something on this, somewhere. You'll need to remove several interior roof panels and take some measurements to confirm your suspitions.

I positioned my coach in a stout roll-up door at our shop. Right at the door area but on the driver side I braced the coach body to the door frame with a 4x4, a small chunk of plywood to distribute the force and a piece of blanket or rug to protect the paint. On the door side I used a Porta-power to carefully push the side in, again with a chunk of plywood and carpet. I gained about half what i needed when I stopped, fearing I begin to do damage. Had I also jacked up on the roof from inside, I would have gotten the whole thing, I'm sure. Good luck.
--
1976 Palm Beach