[GMCnet] Anyone Update a '73's Furniture?
Dave Wilson
Has anyone changed over their '73 (or '74?) furniture to later model flex-steel furniture? We are currently re-doing my Dad's '73 Canyon Lands and have purchased later model furniture to re-upholster and install, but we are curious about the rear end seat swap above the propane tank. We have the 26-3 Model (couches that fold down into a double bed). It seems we'll have to modify the propane tank area by cutting into the compartment to allow the newer seats to sit right. With the modification, we're wondering how we'll route the water tank fill line currently there above the propane tank. Has anyone else dealt with this? Thanks! We're open to suggestions!
--
Dave Wilson
'77 Eleganza II
Photos @ http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member.php?uid=2183&protype=1
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Ken Henderson
I don't know much about Canyon Lands, or anything else you're considering
doing, except for that water fill line you're worried about. I've had,
personally or family-owned, travel trailers and motor homes since about
1957. I've never, not once, used such a fresh water fill.
It's trivially simple to tee a ball valve off of the city water pressure
line, with the other end into the outlet line from the fresh water tank. To
fill the fresh water tank, just open the ball valve. Dependent upon the
configuration of the tank, you'll probably have to connect an overflow tube
to the old fill fitting. With the overflow running through the floor, after
you open the ball valve, go about your business until the overflow shows the
tank's full. Close the ball valve and you're done. No standing there
holding a hose in a fill fitting until it runs over there.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Dave Wilson
GMCWiperMan wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 21:08
> Dave,
>
> I don't know much about Canyon Lands, or anything else you're considering
> doing, except for that water fill line you're worried about. I've had,
> personally or family-owned, travel trailers and motor homes since about
> 1957. I've never, not once, used such a fresh water fill.
>
> It's trivially simple to tee a ball valve off of the city water pressure
> line, with the other end into the outlet line from the fresh water tank. To
> fill the fresh water tank, just open the ball valve. Dependent upon the
> configuration of the tank, you'll probably have to connect an overflow tube
> to the old fill fitting. With the overflow running through the floor, after
> you open the ball valve, go about your business until the overflow shows the
> tank's full. Close the ball valve and you're done. No standing there
> holding a hose in a fill fitting until it runs over there.
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
Thanks Ken. I need a bit more explanation. I questioned using the city water hookup as well, but I'm not sure how the system would work. Where would the valve that you suggest be located? Can you spell it out for me how you envision the water filling the tank? Do I need a new line run? Or would a simple valve take care of everything? Thanks for your reply!
--
Dave Wilson
'77 Eleganza II
Photos @ http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member.php?uid=2183&protype=1
_______________________________________________
Ken Henderson
Since I have a Birchaven, I don't know the exact layout of your plumbing,
but the fundamentals are universal:
Your city water connection feeds the cold water supply line to the faucets
and the water heater. The water pump feeds that same cold water supply
line, perhaps through an external check valve. The bypass valve (I prefer
ball valves) simply bypasses the water pump and any associated check valve,
enabling the city water pressure to force water backward through the water
pump line into the tank.
The tank needs to have an overflow with sufficient area to allow city water
to flow overboard without excessively pressurizing the tank when it gets
full; the old gravity supply connection can be modified to provide that.
HTH,
Ken H.
On Sun, Dec 13, 2009 at 10:25 PM, Dave Wilson <dwil...@talkamerica.net>wrote:
> ...
Thanks Ken. I need a bit more explanation. I questioned using the city
> water hookup as well, but I'm not sure how the system would work. Where
> would the valve that you suggest be located? Can you spell it out for me how
> you envision the water filling the tank? Do I need a new line run? Or would
> a simple valve take care of everything? Thanks for your reply!
> --
>
>
Mike Miller
GMCWiperMan wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 19:08
> ... It's trivially simple to tee a ball valve off of the city water pressure line, with the other end into the outlet line from the fresh water tank. To fill the fresh water tank, just open the ball valve. ...
AND IF you install the ball valve in the HOT water line near the end of the hot water run, (the kitchen sink in most layouts) you'll have 3 modifications in one. (It will take a run of water line back to the tank.)
1- When getting ready to go, fill you tank from the city water.
2- When dry camping, recycle the "not so hot water" to the tank when getting hot water to the tap. Saving both fresh water and space in the holding tank.
3- In cold weather, warm the fresh water tank up to help keep the coach warm. Kind of like a hot water bottle. (This could be done using engine heat.)
--
Mike Miller
`73 26' X Painted D.
`78 23' Birchaven
Hillsboro, OR
Mike Miller
Dave Wilson wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 18:43
> Has anyone changed over their '73 (or '74?) furniture to later model flex-steel furniture? We are currently re-doing my Dad's '73 Canyon Lands and have purchased later model furniture to re-upholster and install, but we are curious about the rear end seat swap above the propane tank. ..
The early coaches had wooden enclosures for both the propane and generator compartments. (On later coaches these where made of aluminum.) I also have a set of newer furniture that I had been planning to install in my '73. I suspect that the modifications to install the later seats may be more work than it is worth... just to keep the capability of RARELY USED rear seating. I am leaning toward a permanent bed back there, but would like to see how you handle this problem.
--
Mike Miller
`73 26' X Painted D.
`78 23' Birchaven
Hillsboro, OR
Ken Henderson
Ken H.
On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Mike Miller <m00...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> GMCWiperMan wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 19:08
> > ... It's trivially simple to tee a ball valve off of the city water
> pressure line, with the other end into the outlet line from the fresh water
> tank. To fill the fresh water tank, just open the ball valve. ...
>
> AND IF you install the ball valve in the HOT water line near the end of the
> hot water run, (the kitchen sink in most layouts) you'll have 3
> modifications in one. (It will take a run of water line back to the tank.)
>
> 1- When getting ready to go, fill you tank from the city water.
>
> 2- When dry camping, recycle the "not so hot water" to the tank when
> getting hot water to the tap. Saving both fresh water and space in the
> holding tank.
>
> 3- In cold weather, warm the fresh water tank up to help keep the coach
> warm. Kind of like a hot water bottle. (This could be done using engine
> heat.)
> --
Dave Wilson
Mike Miller wrote on Mon, 14 December 2009 08:36
> The early coaches had wooden enclosures for both the propane and generator compartments. (On later coaches these where made of aluminum.) I also have a set of newer furniture that I had been planning to install in my '73. I suspect that the modifications to install the later seats may be more work than it is worth... just to keep the capability of RARELY USED rear seating. I am leaning toward a permanent bed back there, but would like to see how you handle this problem.
Hi Mike, thanks for your suggestion. You and Ken have convinced me that a valve can work.
My parents (it's Dad's coach) often use that rear area for sitting in the mornings. On our '77, they really prefer the comfort of the later model Flex-Steel seats (sitting and sleeping), so that's why we're switching over to them. They don't want to go to a permanent bed because they still make use of the seating area with the grandkids riding along.
I'll take some pictures over the next month or so tracking our progress. I started an album on the photo site under: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5359
. Hopefully it all works out by March for an Easter trip to Florida!
Thanks again.
--
Dave Wilson
'77 Eleganza II
Photos @ http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member.php?uid=2183&protype=1
Mike Miller
Dave Wilson wrote on Mon, 14 December 2009 08:56
> ... My parents (it's Dad's coach) often use that rear area for sitting in the mornings. On our '77, they really prefer the comfort of the later model Flex-Steel seats (sitting and sleeping), so that's why we're switching over to them.
>
> ...
>
> I'll take some pictures over the next month or so tracking our progress. I started an album on the photo site under: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=5359
The Flex steel seats are better for sitting but I have found the wood and foam seats can be better for sleeping on. -- Just things I need to think about.
Looking at your pictures, you are doing a lot of what I need to do on my '73 ex-Painted Desert. I did notice the furnace:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31965
If it is anything like how mine was installed:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=11229
Now would be a good time to ensure it is in there properly. Mine works SOOO much better when connected right!
I like the warehouse. Looks like you have room for a mid-winter work rally... Where are you located? :twisted:
--
Mike Miller
`73 26' X Painted D.
`78 23' Birchaven
Hillsboro, OR
Matt Colie
Dave Wilson wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 21:43
> Has anyone changed over their '73 (or '74?) furniture to later model flex-steel furniture? We are currently re-doing my Dad's '73 Canyon Lands and have purchased later model furniture to re-upholster and install, but we are curious about the rear end seat swap above the propane tank. We have the 26-3 Model (couches that fold down into a double bed). It seems we'll have to modify the propane tank area by cutting into the compartment to allow the newer seats to sit right. With the modification, we're wondering how we'll route the water tank fill line currently there above the propane tank. Has anyone else dealt with this? Thanks! We're open to suggestions!
Dave,
I have a 23 and it may be different, but the copper city water line goes over the top of the coach and joins the main. That copper line takes a turn and comes into the space aft of the potable tank where the pump was installed. There is a flare check valve on the end of the copper line. I put a T there and used a flare swivel (2 back to back flare nuts) re-connect the pump discharge. The branch of the T goes to a ball valve that connects to another T added into the pump suction hose (and thereby the potable tank).
The T and swivel will be available at a refrigeration supply house. It may take some discussion to get a swivel as they may have another name for it, but describe it. You don't want to try to make one of these.
When I am connected to city water, I just flip open the side and open the valve and watch the tank until it is as full as desired.
It would be intelligent to leave access to those spaces no matter how you work the bed in there.
The only time I use the old (I call it an atmospheric fill) is to sterilize the potable tank with peroxide.
Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumiere (say show-me-air)
SE Michigan
Ken Henderson
then pour the sterilizing agent into the hose before connecting it to the
city water faucet.
Ken H.
On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 2:15 PM, Matt Colie <mco...@chartermi.net> wrote:
> ...
> The only time I use the old (I call it an atmospheric fill) is to sterilize
> the potable tank with peroxide.
>
>
Dave Wilson
Mike Miller wrote on Mon, 14 December 2009 11:26
> Now would be a good time to ensure it is in there properly. Mine works SOOO much better when connected right!
>
> I like the warehouse. Looks like you have room for a mid-winter work rally... Where are you located? :twisted:
My Dad replaced that furnace at some point (late 80's?) and fixed it down pretty well, but I'll double check it next time I'm there.
The warehouse is my brother's place that he's currently renting. He's in Livonia, MI (suburb of Detroit) and fortunately about 1 mile from my house! It is our man-cave with bathrooms, heat, a small fridge, and the ability to house poker parties with cigars when its 20 degrees outside! As long as his racking business is doing well, he plans on keeping the place. Thanks again for your suggestions Mike.
--
Dave Wilson
'77 Eleganza II
Photos @ http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member.php?uid=2183&protype=1
Dave Wilson
mcolie wrote on Mon, 14 December 2009 13:15
> I have a 23 and it may be different, but the copper city water line goes over the top of the coach and joins the main. That copper line takes a turn and comes into the space aft of the potable tank where the pump was installed. There is a flare check valve on the end of the copper line. I put a T there and used a flare swivel (2 back to back flare nuts) re-connect the pump discharge. The branch of the T goes to a ball valve that connects to another T added into the pump suction hose (and thereby the potable tank).
>
> The T and swivel will be available at a refrigeration supply house. It may take some discussion to get a swivel as they may have another name for it, but describe it. You don't want to try to make one of these.
>
> When I am connected to city water, I just flip open the side and open the valve and watch the tank until it is as full as desired.
>
> It would be intelligent to leave access to those spaces no matter how you work the bed in there.
>
> The only time I use the old (I call it an atmospheric fill) is to sterilize the potable tank with peroxide.
>
> Matt
Thanks Matt! That helps make it clearer for me. My Dad's setup is similar to yours with the water lines running over the mid-section. I'll be printing all these replies out to help us! Thanks again.
--
Dave Wilson
'77 Eleganza II
Photos @ http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/member.php?uid=2183&protype=1
Charles
When I removed the rear panel from my 73 coach it was so brittle it crumbled
everywhere it got slightly bent. I ended up replacing it with a later model
panel. The original molding around the back glass was beyond use even before
I started on tying to repair the cracks in the original panel. Note later
model panels fit entirely different but are much better. More (smaller)
pieces easier to work with. There was almost no blown in insulation on the
walls in my coach. Definitely not as much as was shown in Rob Allen's
pictures. On my coach you could see every rib. I have pictures but have not
been able to find them. If I do find them I will send them direct. Good luck
with your project.
Charles
Douglas Norton
Also, I do use an adapter that allows my air compressor to be hooked in to the city water input line. Now I can empty most of the lines and heater tank without running the water down the drain and filling the black water tank.
You have also given me an option to heat the fresh water tank so I can keep it warm enough to keep the pump and lines near it from freezing when I am parked with electric power (to heat the water).
--- On Mon, 12/14/09, Mike Miller <m00...@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: Mike Miller <m00...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Anyone Update a '73's Furniture?
> To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
> Date: Monday, December 14, 2009, 6:27 AM
>
>
> GMCWiperMan wrote on Sun, 13 December 2009 19:08