[GMCnet] Interior Pics

[jase386]

I have searched the picture site without any luck. The pics im looking for may be there im just not finding them.

What im looking for are pictures of the interior of the bedroom, specifically the back wall, with all of the interior trim removed.

I want to see where all of the supports run. And if anyone has pictures showing where theyve had water running that would be GREAT.. I have water coming in somewhere around the back window, it runs from where the headliner meets the bottom plastic about 3/4 of the way down the window.

i have put in new clearance lights and gaskets which slowed the flood ALOT but this last little trickle is driving me crazy
--
Donovan
1975 Eleganza II (Ellie)
72,500 miles
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[Peter Bailey]

Hi,
I had water leaking where the fibreglass rear clip meets the aluminium main
frame across the top.
The rain had been leaking between these sections that the fixings holding
the clip to the frame had rusted out. new bolts along with sealer in the
joint fixed the problem. I put the sealer in the joint first and then
tensioned all the bolts holding the clip on across the roof (inside so panel
has to be removed) and sealer bulged out so I knew it was sealed.
My memory there is no frame work rear of the clip where it joins the main
frame.
The only other place it could leak is around the very back section where you
can see the domed fixings that hold that panel that has the window in it.
You have fixed the other problem area being the clearance lights.
From what you have described it is not leaking in the window rubber itself?
Hope that helps.
Peter Bailey
from Ozy (Aussie)

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

did you look here under "leak management"? also look at the other links here
for head liner replacement

http://gmcmotorhome.info/living.html#head

also this link shows a lot of the area under the clearance lights -- sound
like you might not have been under here yet ?

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7221&ppuser=229

gene

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Rob Allen]

jase386 wrote on Mon, 14 December 2009 02:05

> I have searched the picture site without any luck. The pics im looking for may be there im just not finding them.
>
> What im looking for are pictures of the interior of the bedroom, specifically the back wall, with all of the interior trim removed.
>
> I want to see where all of the supports run. And if anyone has pictures showing where theyve had water running that would be GREAT.. I have water coming in somewhere around the back window, it runs from where the headliner meets the bottom plastic about 3/4 of the way down the window.
>
> i have put in new clearance lights and gaskets which slowed the flood ALOT but this last little trickle is driving me crazy

This photo shoot tells you some of what you might want to know. You may see some of the interior rear shots that show the inside without the trim. At the end of the set, there are some photos that show how I put 1/4" vacuum hose in the crack outside, between the main body and the rear window section to stop the leaks I had found prior to the headliner job. I think there is a very good probability that your leaks are from that exact same area, and will be solved by the same technique.

I hope this helps some.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4491

--
Rob Allen
'76 x-PB

[Rick Denney]

jase386 writes...

> I have searched the picture site without any luck. The pics im
> looking for may be there im just not finding them.

These pictures may help. The rear section pictures are towards the end
of the album, but they are all about leaks.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=4432

Rick "who still has a leak in the rear of the coach" Denney

'73 230 Ex-Glacier "Jaws"
Northern Virginia

[jase386]

ok, Great information from you guys, and FAST as usual.

Now if any of you would come to Greenville and go to work for me for a week or two, i can devote some time to projects. that would be great.

It looks like ill try the Vaccum tube as a sealer first to see if that helps. By looking at the pictures its a huge possibility that is where my trickle is coming from.

[Gary Casey]

I have a suspicion that I'm not as good as I should be at searching (well, it's more than a suspicion :-), but I can't find a description of the alternator wiring. From memory of the distant past, I think The alternator (the standard humungus Delco with internal regulator) has a wire coming out that is connected directly to the voltage regulator supply. This wire goes to the warning light, which is switched ignition power. The current through the light is expected to provide enough field current to wake up the alternator. The regulator supply is also connected to the stator windings through three diodes (the "diode trio") and this powers the regulator after the alternator comes on line, shutting off the light (both sides are "high"). Do I have it right? Then what does the high-impedance wire do and where is it connected?

My light stays on even though the alternator is producing the correct voltage - brighter when charging a lot, but always on at least dimly. Could this be partly caused by the voltage drop of the isolator?

Unrelated question - is the "boost" solenoid a continous-duty device that would allow it to function as a manual "combiner"? Standard aircraft "master" contactors are configured in such a way - they are rated at high enough currents to run the starter, but are still continuous duty. They just can't be expected to switch starter loads.

Thanks,
Gary Casey
'73 23'

[Bruce Hislop]

Gary,
I think this is what you are looking for.. your profile says you have a '73 and this says 76/77, but I think its near the same.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showgallery.php?cat=3254

The 10 ohm wire actually supplies the field current to get the alternator started.

BTW, your post on the forum is buried at the end of an old thread called "Interior Pics"

--
Bruce Hislop,
S. Ontario Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI and ESC.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001

[Jim Maher]

Gary, look at this also. May be helpful. Jim
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[Mr.erf ERFisher]

lets give this a shot, you can look at this diagram

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3731&cat=3254

the big red wire is the output of the alternator and goes to the center
terminal of the diode isolator.

the small black wire comes out of the little plastic connector and goes to a
10 ohm, more than 40 watt resistor, which is connected to the ACC portion of
the Ignition switch. (Do not use a 100 ohm resistor here because this will
not supply the 2 amps, and your alternator may not start up for 3 to 10
minutes every time ;>)

This wire supply's 2 amps to the alternator to get it running and should
contain a diode (the APC cable will do this ,shown in green) . The diode
here keeps the alternator (when it goes bad) from feeding 100 volts back to
the nichrome resistor which will melt the other wires in the harness. This
diode also stops your alternator light from glowing dim from other false
indications. The 77/78 diode was put in by GMC to stop these false
indications, but was in the wrong place to protect from an alternator
failure.

The last wire goes to the battery to give the alternator a reference voltage
to eliminate any voltage drop due to the isolator diodes.

A very good design by GMC that works well and causes no problems unless
there is a catastrophic alternator failure, and then the APC protects the
wiring from this failure.

finally

your alternator light should not glow dim (with the APC)...... something
wrong there.

I think The alternator (the standard humungus Delco with internal
regulator) has a wire coming out that is connected directly to the voltage
regulator supply. This wire goes to the warning light, which is switched
ignition power.

nope, the 10 resistor does this

The current through the light is expected to provide enough field current
to wake up the alternator.

>

> My light stays on even though the alternator is producing the correct
> voltage - brighter when charging a lot, but always on at least dimly. Could
> this be partly caused by the voltage drop of the isolator?
>

something is wrong, read here
http://www.gmcmotorhome.info/engine.html#alternator

>
> Unrelated question - is the "boost" solenoid a continous-duty device that
> would allow it to function as a manual "combiner"?
>

not really, many have failed in this use, better to use a combiner, it has
many other useful features and only takes 10 min to install

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=26973&title=10-minute-combiner-install&cat=4944

this is easy-- good luck
gene

>
> Thanks,
> Gary Casey
> '73 23'
>
>
>
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--

Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html