| I think your right Lanny, or else someone wired the thermostat wrong. If the oven worked ok and one day it decided to heat all the time, yes it would most likely be a oven t'stat. It can be checked. Unplug range, check continuity between incoming power to thermostat and out going to oven element. Should have it when t'stat is turned on and should lose continuity when t'stat is turned to off posistion. This might require removing wires from t'stat to isolate the connections that you are checking. If your not familiar with this I would highly recomend someone that is qualified to do it. If you still have your old t'stat that could checked also to see if it is good or bad. Continuity in on position, no continuity in off position. I used to work on these in the late 70s early 80s. Hope this helps ya out. OMG !!! --- On Fri, 2/24/12, Lanny Mong <mong...@yahoo.com> wrote: |
The spade connections of the heating element are uncomfortably close
to the ceramic insulator at the back of the oven. This insulator is
not really an insulator at all as I have found that even incidental
contact of the bare spades with the insulator causes a short circuit.
Such a short can fuse the contacts in the switch.
I had a recent problem with a pot heating element with a short circuit
which blew the switch control before the fuse popped. The switch
would no longer provide power to the element, but the indicator light
was now on all the time.
In either case I would get a manual with the electrical schematics for
these controls and start checking wires one at a time with a
voltmeter.
Brian
--
Brian Fitzgerald
cell: 905 975 6185
Thomas,
thankk you for the help. I am in contactt witht Mark Michaels re part #s etc and he is a big help but since he doesn't do repairs and does parts I also wanted to check and see if any more suggestions. we replaced thermostat switch, did not fix issue. we then replaced some type of mechanism that the switch sits and connnects to - did not work. we are nowo ready to order the relays in back of oven but people say that if swich is off then should be no power tot relays thus they should not be the problem. my initial problem was the large oven was off by about 150 degrees where I would set it to 450 if I wanted 300 but then it started not going off at all. so the contractor guy who is doing the work turned off my breaker to oven and stove.. if I am doing the relays then will that work or is there something else I should replace when we have stove out.
as to cook master dial - the clock has been out for some time long beffore this problem started so I don't think tha is issue. I will look at having clock rebuilt with the place steve mentioned but again how much money do I keep putting into this? but this is a built in so I would have to remodel whole kitchen if I can'tt save this.
|
I had a contractor do the work I will ask him to check. I wander if maybe he wired it wrong some how. the large oven has always been off about 100 degrees and has been getting worse and then this staying on. when I say off about 100 degrees - I would set to 450 if I wanted to bake at 300. I am printing all of these emails and suggestions and will have the contractor check these
thanks everyone
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RebeccaI am very concerned about your questions. I thought that you were in contact with Mark M. and that everything was solved. What happened?I am going out on a limb, and sometimes when I do I get some flack, but I find it difficult to stand by and let people go by the way side, when we haveso many people out there that know how to work on these things, and just stand by and say nothing. I am still a novice, but I try to help as much I can, and sometimesI come up short, but at least I amtrying.Okay, now, if I remember this is a RCI 645, Which means a dual oven custom imperial. Then this has the cookmaster clock device.Are you having problems with the large oven or the small oven? If it is the large oven, and it stays on and will not turn off, then go to the cookmaster dial whereyou set the hours to cook. It shows manual, which means the oven will come on, if you switch the cookmaster to off, it should shut down your large oven, if it does notshut down your large oven, then we know its the switch, if it shuts it down, then we know there is an open circuit at the cookmaster keeping the oven on, and so you wouldhave to replace the clock and cookmaster switches, and many of us have used working units.So is there anyone else who can add to this, that my help Rebecca?Thank youTom NicholsLA TOM
From: Lanny Mong <mong...@yahoo.com>
To: "frigidai...@googlegroups.com" <frigidai...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Fri, February 24, 2012 2:45:51 PM