Re: Vibe-to-Roatary Pump Converison Wiring Questions
Dwell Projects
Wiring in that relay is simple, output to the vibe pump should connect to the input wires on the relay (red and orange from control board) you don't need to worry about line and neutral here.
Take line and neutral from your power switch and use the relay contacts to switch pump on and off, you could switch both line and neutral if you want or only line (hot) wire.
the ground wire would go directly to the new pump.
Your autofill will have the preinfusion delay as well, not a big deal though...
how much did the spm pump cost you?
On 2012-04-12, at 8:41 PM, Erik wrote:
> I am currently in the process of performing a vibe-to-rotary pump
> conversion on my Faema C84 single group espresso machine (Auto dosing
> functions). I also posted this message on CG and HB as well.
> I have sourced all the parts/supplies and am ready to finish the final
> wiring but wanted to get some specific feedback before I make the
> final connections.
>
> Current Vibe setup:
> -72 watt FOT vibe pump hooked up via 3 leads (FOT pump contains live/
> neutral/ground) which are colored Red/Blue/Green-Yellow. The FOT vibe
> pump leads are connected directly to 3 leads feeding from the Faema
> dosing control box (live/neutral/ground), respectively Blue/Orange/
> Green-Yellow
>
> The FOT pump is currently hooked up as follows:
> FOT-pump Red wire hooked to Control board Blue wire: I believe this is
> the live/power
> FOT-pump Brown wire hooked to Control board Orange wire: I believe
> this is the neutral
> FOT-pump Green-Yellow wire hooked to control board Green-Yellow wire:
> I believe this is ground
>
> The replacement SPM compact drive motor also contains 3 wire leads
> (same colors as FOT vibe pump) which are Blue/Brown/Green-Yellow. I am
> making the assumption that the SPM drive motor would be Blue =Live,
> Brown =Neutral, and Green-Yellow =Ground
>
> I am not going to simply hook the control board’s leads directly to
> the SPM drive motor leads as I am installing an 8-pin solid state time
> delay relay in between (time delay added for preinfusion). My plan is
> to actually feed the relay with live power directly from the actual
> power switch which powers on the machine. The reason is because I am
> not looking for the factory control board to actually feed the SPM
> Drive motor as I do not want to put the added strain on the control
> board’s circuit; also the factory vibe pump was actually a 52 ulka and
> I would be hooking up a 120watt SPM drive motor
>
> My question is pertaining to directions on how to properly wire the
> solid state relay between the control board wire leads and the new SPM
> drive motor.
>
> I am using the following 8-pin solid state time delay relay and need
> to know which leads to go which pins: DPDT MAGNECRAFT W211ACPSOX-7
> http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/magnecraftw211acpsox-7delaytimer.aspx
>
> I believe all 8-pin DPDT relays would be wired the same way.
> The leads I would need to attach are as follows:
>
> Control Board Leads:
> Red-live
> Orange-Neutral
> Green/Yellow-Ground
>
> SPM Pump leads:
> Blue-live
> Brown-Neutral
> Green/Yellow-Ground
>
> Main Power switch:
> Red-Live
> Black-Neutral
>
> What are your suggestions on which leads specifically go to which pins
> on the relay?
> Any help would be much appreciated.
Dwell Projects
Thanks for the feedback. I also posted this question on the HB forum as well. Would you mind reading through the thread and seeing if you agree with the suggested pin hookups I received as feedback?
The pump and motor are the same as in the expobar brewtus and Vivaldi and were about $95. I already installed the pump and motor inside the machine and have the plumbing all hooked up...just waiting for some more feedback on the relay connections...
My line pressure is only about 30-40 psi as its fed from a flojet, no regulator should be required, I think.
Dwell Projects
Not sure how an increased flow rate would produce the change you are seeing, unless your cooling flushes are faster and higher volume.
I have been contemplating a temp probe in my machine, what did you use? Seems like a good idea to better time cooling flushes.
Paul
On 2012-04-17, at 8:18 AM, Erik wrote:
> The plumbing has been all worked out and I pulled a few dozen shots
> over the past few days. All in all it was a very straightforward
> conversion, with the exception of the wiring questions. The thermo
> loop seams to have changed slightly though, meaning that it idles at a
> lower temp as compared to the vibe pump (I have a temp probe in the
> group head)....without changing the pstat adjustment. Not a big deal,
> just raised the pstat pressure.
>
> Does anyone know if adding the time delay relay would cause the 2 way
> solenoid to push more cold water to the thermosyphon loop, therefore
> affecting the shot temp stability. If this is the case, would turning
> the mixer valve down raise the shot temp pull?
>
> On Apr 13, 5:32 pm, Dwell Projects <dwel...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> should be fine...
>> ground directly to pump, not needed on relay
>>
>> On 2012-04-13, at 2:00 PM, Erik Tekin wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Thanks for the feedback. I also posted this question on the HB forum as well. Would you mind reading through the thread and seeing if you agree with the suggested pin hookups I received as feedback?
>>
>>> HB thread:
>>> http://www.home-barista.com/espresso-machines/vibe-to-rotary-pump-con...
>>
>>> The pump and motor are the same as in the expobar brewtus and Vivaldi and were about $95. I already installed the pump and motor inside the machine and have the plumbing all hooked up...just waiting for some more feedback on the relay connections...
>>
>>> My line pressure is only about 30-40 psi as its fed from a flojet, no regulator should be required, I think.
>>
Dwell Projects
Yes, I was thinking of the mixer valve which I thought regulates the
ratio of cold inlet water that gets pushed to the thermosyphon HX
pipes. I used a RTD sensor from auber instruments, but if I had the
chance to do it again I would have gone with a thermocoupler as they
have a quicker temp response time.
PID controller:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14&zenid=26dd73109ef3d8cbbf5f5b5501fe9ea4
RTD Sensor:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=136
Im not sure if this probe is too long, but this thermocoupler may be a
simple solution:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=108