how to put hood back on
Anachrophile
that the weather here is better. It is time to put the hood back on.
The Service Manual is pretty useless on this. I have the torsion
springs inserted into their holes and slot. I have enough help to
hold the hood where it needs to be. Looks like I am supposed to
somehow push the torsion springs hard enough that their rolling end
finds its way to the "track" on the hinge. But that ain't easy!
Advice?
Paul Russo
brion traill
I have never had that whole assembly apart; but I know that the rollers were in the tracks and that all we had to do was hold the hood to the flat mounts and install the four bolts.
It sounds as if it is not quite assembled right yet...
--- On Sat, 11/14/09, Anachrophile <paul...@cox.net> wrote: |
|
Eva...@aol.com
Hello, all. I have SLOWLY been working on my 1965 273 Form S, now
that the weather here is better. It is time to put the hood back on.
The Service Manual is pretty useless on this. I have the torsion
springs inserted into their holes and slot. I have enough help to
hold the hood where it needs to be. Looks like I am supposed to
somehow push the torsion springs hard enough that their rolling end
finds its way to the "track" on the hinge. But that ain't easy!
Advice?
Paul Russo
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steve wander
Anachrophile
be lying around here somewhere, but I might have to use a washer. Is
the spacer made of metal?
On Nov 15, 9:14 pm, steve wander <pisht...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I read this and was wondering what the deal was, I did my hood by myself,
> but then read that your torsion bars were removed. I just removed the hood
> from the hinges.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 4:58 PM, <Eva...@aol.com> wrote:
> > I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to put the torsion bar into
> > the hood hinge. If the torsion bar is painted put a thick rag between the
> > channel locks and the bar. Be careful!! If the bar slips it will smack
> > you!!
> > Then once the torsion bars are in place in the hinges, put the hood back
> > on.
>
> > Note: Before you put the torsion bars in the hinges, make sure that the
> > spacer is between the hinge and the body. Then make sure the lock ring is in
> > place on the pin as well. (The pin that the hinge pivots on at the body)
>
> > Dave
>
> > In a message dated 11/14/2009 10:21:18 P.M. Central Standard Time,
>
> > Hello, all. I have SLOWLY been working on my 1965 273 Form S, now
> > that the weather here is better. It is time to put the hood back on.
> > The Service Manual is pretty useless on this. I have the torsion
> > springs inserted into their holes and slot. I have enough help to
> > hold the hood where it needs to be. Looks like I am supposed to
> > somehow push the torsion springs hard enough that their rolling end
> > finds its way to the "track" on the hinge. But that ain't easy!
> > Advice?
>
> > Paul Russo
>
> > --
>
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "The Early Valiant & Barracuda Club" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > .
> >http://groups.google.com/group/evbc-list?hl=.
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "The Early Valiant & Barracuda Club" group.
> > To post to this group, send email to evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > .
>
> - Show quoted text -
pas...@comcast.net
Jerry Raynor
Julie Barr
| Okay, I know I'm new to the club and the Plymouth family, but I need some help!!! As I had mentioned, we are chaning out the left wheel studs and making them all right studs. Well, I was pressing out the studs and cracked the front hub. I cannot seem to locate a front hub for my 1964 Plymouth Valiant with drum brakes anywhere. Got any suggestions! Julie K. Barr
Oldham County Clerk
--- On Mon, 11/23/09, Jerry Raynor <66d...@charter.net> wrote: |
D. Howland
Mike Andreas
Julie Barr
| I cracked bigger then heck! |
Julie K. Barr
Oldham County Clerk
|
| --- On Mon, 11/23/09, Mike Andreas <mand...@mac.com> wrote: |
Bob Jasinski
From: Julie Barr [mailto:julie...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 5:52 PM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [EVBC] Front hub
Eva...@aol.com
Julie Barr
The only reason we are changing the left studs out is, there were several broken off when we bought the car. I ran into a brick wall finding replacements for left studs. I was advised that the best solution would be to make them all right handed. It would have been easier for us to leave them left, but not if we could not find replacements for the broken ones. I am all about safety too, but not if it means driving a car with studs missing.
I just need to be mindful off my own strength when using a press! :) |
|
Julie K. Barr
Oldham County Clerk
|
| --- On Mon, 11/23/09, Bob Jasinski <rpj...@pacbell.net> wrote: |
eric cooper
ericcuda eric
--- On Mon, 11/23/09, Bob Jasinski <rpj...@pacbell.net> wrote:
> From: Bob Jasinski <rpj...@pacbell.net>
> Subject: RE: [EVBC] Front hub
> Date: Monday, November 23, 2009, 10:26 AM
>
>
>
>
>
> I've never really understood why
> people that own these cars feel
> the need to change out the left hand threads.
> I've owned many Chrysler
> product cars with left hand threads and have never had a
> problem with any of
> them. If you take your car to a shop, you MUST take
> the time to remind
> them they are left hand threads, or else just take the
> wheels off the car
> yourself. Sure is easier than all this drama of
> trying to source studs and
> breaking hubs. Keep in mind the left hand threads
> purpose is to enhance
> safety by reducing the possibility of the lugs from coming
> loose. These
> cars are unique, and should be treated as
> such.
>
> Bob J
>
>
>
> P {
> MARGIN:0px;}
> the Google Groups "The Early Valiant &
> Barracuda Club"
> group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send
> email to evbc-list+...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options,
> visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/evbc-list?hl=.
>
>
> Google Groups "The Early Valiant &
> Barracuda Club" group.
> To post
> to this group, send email to
> evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> To
> unsubscribe from this group, send email to
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> group at
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>
>
>
Steve Grohne
Mark Koenig
From: Eva...@aol.com [mailto:Eva...@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 11:28 AM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [EVBC] Front hub
Matt Matthews
Hey Bob,
While I agree with you that left hand thread studs/lugs are unique, every single old Mopar that I have owned that had
them was missing studs on that side. Us old guys remember to check, but today’s mechanics have no clue and usually
twist two-three off before they stop to figure out why.
I have changed to right hand studs/lugs on all my Mopars and have had no problems. I have had to replace hubs on my
’65 Barracuda and ’69 A108 due to someone else improperly removing the studs without cutting them first.
Also, and this may be overkill, I like having new studs/lugs all the way around on all my cars. Just makes me feel better
knowing they are in good shape. Again, maybe overkill!
Matt
From: Bob Jasinski
[mailto:rpj...@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 8:26 AM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [EVBC] Front hub {Disarmed}
I've never really understood why people that own these cars feel the need to change out the left hand threads. I've owned many Chrysler product cars with left hand threads and have never had a problem with any of them. If you take your car to a shop, you MUST take the time to remind them they are left hand threads, or else just take the wheels off the car yourself. Sure is easier than all this drama of trying to source studs and breaking hubs. Keep in mind the left hand threads purpose is to enhance safety by reducing the possibility of the lugs from coming loose. These cars are unique, and should be treated as such.
Bob J
From: Julie Barr [mailto:julie...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 5:52 PM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [EVBC] Front hub
|
Okay, I know I'm new to the club and the Plymouth family, but I need some help!!! As I had mentioned, we are chaning out the left wheel studs and making them all right studs. Well, I was pressing out the studs and cracked the front hub. I cannot seem to locate a front hub for my 1964 Plymouth Valiant with drum brakes anywhere. Got any suggestions! Julie K. Barr Oldham County Clerk
|
Hey guys, Anybody out there have a good wiring harness for a 65 Valiant. The one in the car still works but it's been spliced several times. I have a 340 in the the car but I think the 6 cylinder will work. Also, I need the harness for the trunk. The one in the car works fine but I'm trying to get one with the back up wires already there. You guys rock and thanks in advance. Jerry |
|
david...@dakight.com
-----Original Message-----
From: D. Howland [mailto:howl...@verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 9:40 PM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [EVBC] Front hub
david...@dakight.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Eva...@aol.com [mailto:Eva...@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 9:28 AM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [EVBC] Front hub
Dave Mapes
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Jasinski [mailto:rpj...@pacbell.net]
Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 11:26 AM
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [EVBC] Front hub
D. Howland
Bob Jasinski
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
brion traill
| I have 5 or 6 lh studs if anybody needs 'em. --- On Mon, 11/23/09, D. Howland <howl...@verizon.net> wrote: |
|
|
Hack, Peter
Sent from my iPhone
--
MOJACK
Jeff
--- On Mon, 11/23/09, Mark Koenig <mar...@fuse.net> wrote:
> Date: Monday, November 23, 2009, 2:04 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In addition, the left
> hand studs are GREAT anti-theft
> devices................ ;)
>
> Mark Koenig, another
> traditionalist with small bolt pattern & left hand
> studs.
>
>
>
> #yiv1063282120 P {
> MARGIN:0px;}
> the Google Groups "The Early Valiant &
> Barracuda Club"
> group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send
> email to
> evbc-list+...@googlegroups.com.
> For more
> options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/evbc-list?hl=.
>
>
> the Google Groups "The Early Valiant &
> Barracuda Club"
> group.
> To post to this group, send email to
> evbc...@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send
> email to evbc-list+...@googlegroups.com.
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> visit this group at
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>
>
>
> Groups "The Early Valiant & Barracuda Club"
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>
> Groups "The Early Valiant & Barracuda Club"
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>
Victor Carre
I recently did this job and you are correct. The front and rear studs have a different design. If I recall correctly, the knurl and the length are different.
45 year old car, little 7/16" studs and some broken off already. . . I changed them all out.
--- On Mon, 11/23/09, MOJACK <MOJ...@CHARTER.NET> wrote: |
|
|
|
D. Howland
By Peggy J. Fisher©
ROCHESTER HILLS, Mich. (Aug. 13,
2007) — Dots, dots everywhere. There are lots of dots in our lives, whether or
not we recognize them.
There are techie dots called pixels that make up the images on our computer monitors and television screens. There are those voluptuous dots on that little “itsy, bitsy, teeny, weenie, yellow polka dot bikini” that you stared at near the pool or on the beach last weekend.
And there are those paint dots that you see almost every work day on the lower sidewall of new tires. While you may understand the importance of the pixels on your screen and the effect that polka dots on that bikini can have on you, do you know what those dots on new tires mean and how they can impact you?
If you guessed that these paint dots are supposed to be used when mounting tires, you would be right. But these dots can be very confusing since some manufacturers use them while others don’t, and some dots are different colors than others. The question you have probably is, “What do they mean on the tire I am mounting?!” And that is an excellent question.
A question of balance
If you are staring at paint dots on truck tires, you should know that they were installed to assist you in correcting tire balance and radial runout conditions.
Manufacturers of commercial truck radial tires may apply a variety of colored dots on the lower sidewall for customer or factory purposes. Not all tires have markings and even the paint dots on those tires that do are temporary and can be scuffed off during normal shipping, handling and use. That’s why you don’t usually see them on used tires.
The dots on new tires that have them are not critical but are intended to guide technicians when positioning the tire on the rim during the mounting process.
Since it is very hard to make a tire that is perfectly balanced, some tire manufacturers apply yellow dots that indicate the tire’s light balance point and serve to help you balance the assembly while mounting the tire. The yellow dots should be aligned with the valve stem on both steel and aluminum wheels since this is the wheel’s heavy balance point. This will help minimize the amount of weight needed to balance a tire and wheel assembly. So usually, whenever you see a yellow dot, match it up with the valve stem.
This is always true except in cases where a red dot also appears in the lower sidewall. The red dot indicates the high point for both radial runout and radial force variation. As I’m sure you know, not only is it hard for tire manufacturers to make a perfectly balanced tire, it also is very difficult to make a perfectly round tire.
Tires tend to have high spots and low spots. The difference between the high and the low is called radial runout. Radial runout changes the radius of the rotating assembly, causing it to raise and lower the vehicle as it rolls along. That gives the perception that the tire is “hopping” or “bouncing” down the road and ends up delivering a rough ride to the driver and irregular wear to the tread.
Radial force variation is similar to radial runout and is a result of a heavy or thicker area being manufactured into the tire due to variations in component thickness, placement and overlapping. Radial force variation applies more force against the road at the tire’s thicker spot as the tire runs, which causes one sidewall to flex differently than the other. The result is tire/wheel assembly vibration and irregular tread wear.
To avoid or minimize these problems, whenever you see a red spot, match this up with the valve stem—unless you happen to have a steel wheel that has a dimple on the exterior side of the rim area. The dimple indicates the wheels’ low spot and is spec’ed by some original equipment manufacturers so that they can match mount tires and wheels installed on new trucks at the factory.
If you see both a red as well as a yellow dot on the tire, the red dot takes priority. An easy way to remember this is the phrase “Red Rules.” Ignore the yellow dot and match the red dot to the wheel low point dimple as some vehicle manufacturers do or, if no dimple is marked on the wheel, align the red dot with the valve stem.
Other colors/no colors
When you are installing dual tire assemblies on a vehicle, always “clock” the two wheels so that their valve stems are 180 degrees apart. This is done for two reasons.
The biggest one is so you can access the valve stems and take and adjust inflation pressures while the tires are on the vehicle. However, a secondary reason is that it also puts the balance points opposite each other and counteracts any of the remaining imbalance, radial runout or radial force variation.
If you see any blue, green, purple, white, pink or orange dots, just ignore them. They are “mystery” dots and are there for factory purposes. Once the tire leaves the manufacturing plant, dots of those colors have no use.
Some manufacturers do not put any dots on their tires.
A tire with no dots does not indicate a lack of tire uniformity or factory inspection. It simply means that those tire companies didn’t want to put any dots on their tires. So you are on your own. If you find imbalance to be a problem after mounting the tire, rotate the tire 180 degrees on the rim and then recheck the balance.
Since all the tire companies seem to have their own policies regarding mounting dots and there was no one source to find this information, the Technology and Maintenance Council (TMC) asked each company to advise it of its mounting markings and what they are to be used for. It then produced RP243 Tire and Wheel Match Mounting Markings.
This recommended practice guide provides the accompanying table (above), which outlines the tire balance and runout markings for medium commercial radial truck tires.
All dots not listed in the table are for factory use only.
Once a tire is mounted, both sides of the tire should be checked for concentric bead seating. Non-concentrically seated beads often result in irregular tread wear and ride disturbances just as imbalance, radial runout and radial force variation do, so don’t go to all the trouble of matching the correct dot to the valve stem and then screw up by not using enough lubricant and improperly seating the tire on the rim.
It’s these little details that can’t be overlooked but ensure optimized tire
performance.
----- Original Message -----From: Hack, PeterSent: Monday, November 23, 2009 5:51 PMSubject: Re: [EVBC] Front hub
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/evbc-list?hl=en.
Bob Jasinski
To: evbc...@googlegroups.com
D. Howland
kathy cronk
----- Original Message -----From: D. Howland
Jeff
--- On Tue, 11/24/09, kathy cronk <cro...@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Google Groups "The Early Valiant & Barracuda
> Club" group.
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