no spark

[cdscr...@comcast.net]

Hi All,

 

Since the Barracuda has been on jack stands in a shelter behind the garage for the winter, I've been going out every couple of weeks, starting it and letting it run, at least 5-10 minutes past when the thermostat opens up, just to keep everything flowing...  It's been running ok, but every now and then, it just dies abruptly, clean and instant, without warning.  It has started back up easily enough, just like nothing happened.  Annoying, but I had other things going on, and never got back to it...  Now, it will crank all day, smell like gas, and not fire at all...  Pump system on Eddy Carb is shooting gas...  I took the coil wire off the distributor, and held it to ground, with a buddy cranking the engine, expected to see a spark, but got none...  I converted the ignition system from points to Electronic Ignition system around 5 years ago...

 

Here's what I did so far...

 

* Filled it with fresh gas

* Put the battery (always disconnected) on a charger

* Changed out the Ballast Resistor (suppose to be 0.8 ohm, was reading 1.0 ohm)

* Changed out the coil - (I was getting a funky reading on pole to pole resistance, but turns out I was checking it wrong to the FSM, but at least I know it's new and have a spare)

* Tightened all ground connections to body, especially ground strap from Electronic Ignition Box to body

* Pulled the Distributor cap, inspected cap and rotor for wear or corrosion, found none (I cleaned it before storage anyway)

 

The only other thing I can think of is the "brain box" itself ???  How likely is that ???  How to check it ???

It is the "4 Wire" variety

 

Any Ideas are welcome...

 

THANKS !

 

Chuck

65 Barracuda

Batavia, IL

[D. Howland]

If you've double checked the continuity from all the wires leading to the box, I think the only thing left for you is to swap out the box and see if that works. There are a few negative opinions about the more recent ignition modules. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=109798 If you do swap it, see if you can find an old stock one at the wrecking yard. I believe the theory of failure is bad potting material or some such when the manufacturing location went elsewhere. I do know I never had a problem with my orange box that I got about 12-13 years ago and I used that up 'til I swapped to the HEI (still have it in there as a backup, if that says anything).

 

Daryl

64 Valiant

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[Steve Wander]

Check the gap between the reluctor and pickup, get it to .006 see if that helps. Check this article out: 

got NO spark??? 

grab your digital volt meter... set it to 2K ohms.. disconnect the 2 wire plug at the distributer. you should have around 800 ohms. give or take.. anywhere between 600 and 1,500 ohms is usually ok. 

before you disconnect the volt meter. flip the setting to 2 volts AC or 20 volts AC range... crank the engine if the distributor is in.. spin the shaft if it is out... for the system to work. you need to see over 1 volt AC. 

if the pick up coil passes it's resistance test... the gap is correct ,,, replace the reluctor. 

the reluctor keeps a small amount of magnetic field.. so as it passes the pick up coil AC voltage is created to trigger the ignition module

it takes about 0.6 volts AC to turn the power transistor on. if the pick up coil does not create enough voltage... the power transistor will not have enough voltage to turn on.. if its not on.. it cannot switch off discharging the coil primary... 

testing the pickup coil takes only a few minutes.. testing the reluctor, a few seconds more... 

rusty reluctors don't work well, sand blasted reluctors don't work well... if at all... sometimes they just go bad... this is the only test to be sure... other than sticking a new one in.. 

--
Steve W.
'65 "S"

[Charles DiPietro]

What if no ohms at distributor 2 wire connector, disconnected, checking plug?

Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

[Charles DiPietro]

Turns out I get about 370 ohm at plug and when spinning, can't get to 1 vac - it is the FBO kit of distributor, coil, and box... About 4 years old...

Chuck

Sent from my iPhone

[Steve Wander]

Call Don@FBO, he is a very good guy and am sure he'll hook you up

[Debra + Clark]

I know that this will sound like a long shot but it actually happened to me.   (sorry about the italics...I can't figure out how to get rid of it...not too computer savy) Anyways I had just given my 72 skylark a tune up (which had stalled ubruptly like you described) and shut the hood.  The car never started again.  I did everything that yu described and was dumbfounded. No spark but everything individually checked out fine. The engine was turning fine, blah, blah, blah. Then I happened to have the distributor cap off and my wife turned over the motor. ....The rotor wasn't rotating. Yes the timing chain went and the cam wasn't being turned by the chain so the cam wasn't turning the distributor etc.  I would just sugest since it's such and easy thing to check maybe you could turn it over while watching the rotor. I hopw it's not but who know's.  I thought this might help one of you in the future also. I've never forgotten it.  Clark 

 

From: "cdscr...@comcast.net" <cdscr...@comcast.net>
To: Early EVBC <evbc...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2012 11:13 AM
Subject: [EVBC] no spark

[Debra + Clark]

Sorry I had to reforward this, Clark

[68pi...@gmail.com]

You can pop the oil cap and see valvetrain movement too if you have no baffle. I carried a spare points dizzy in my trunk when I ran an MSD (may suddenly die) ignition. Used it twice to limp home. About a 15 minute swap, faster once you have done it. I even put an aligator clip on the grouind lead...for testing and a lug for driving.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

---

From: Debra + Clark <im...@verizon.net>

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Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 10:22:53 -0800 (PST)

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