Decorators
Mark Sawyer
sized (ie several rooms) job in a new house. Probably just painting
needed. We had one bloke round to give us an estimate but I am wary as
he was obviously under the influence of something (let's be generous and
say paint fumes) and his eyes pointed in different directions.
The job needs to be done in Bonnyrigg.
Ta.
Also how do I help my lawn drain better ?
--
Mark Sawyer Tel +44 131 650 5019
EPCC Fax +44 131 650 6555
http://www.epcc.ed.ac.uk email: m.sa...@epcc.ed.ac.uk
Kenneth MacDonald
Mark> Also how do I help my lawn drain better ?
Spike it and fill the holes with coarse sand. Either use a garden
fork (and do your back in) or hire a machine (and do your back in
lifting it into your car).
--
Kenny
ADML Support, EUCS, The University of Edinburgh, Scotland.
Craig Cockburn
Sawyer <m.sa...@epcc.ed.ac.uk>
>Recommendations required for painters/decorators to do a reasonable
>sized (ie several rooms) job in a new house. Probably just painting
>needed. We had one bloke round to give us an estimate but I am wary as
>he was obviously under the influence of something (let's be generous and
>say paint fumes) and his eyes pointed in different directions.
>
Ian Robertson
Bonnybridge
01324 814857
Did a good job of painting my current house, painting and decorating our
old house (inside and outside) and painting and decorating my parents
house. He does tend to get booked up several weeks in advance though.
Craig
--
Craig Cockburn ("coburn"). E-commerce consultant
Webmaster of http://www.siliconglen.com/ - Scotland's Internet name
Scottish culture, internet, business, jokes, weddings and more!
Kostas Kavoussanakis
> >>>>> "Mark" == Mark Sawyer <m.sa...@epcc.ed.ac.uk> writes:
>
> Mark> Also how do I help my lawn drain better ?
>
> Spike it and fill the holes with coarse sand.
Another method, according to the scripts, is annual liming (followed
by manuring 6 mths later) which breaks up the clay through a chemical
process. This takes a while (years) to work, but has the added value
of calcium and perhaps magnesium introduction to your soil.
Now, I could have just popped in and told you, but I haven't tried any
of these and I thought someone from this ng might know that little bit
better.
Kostas
Paul Aitken
>
> On 4 Jun 2001, Kenneth MacDonald wrote:
>
> > >>>>> "Mark" == Mark Sawyer <m.sa...@epcc.ed.ac.uk> writes:
> >
> > Mark> Also how do I help my lawn drain better ?
> >
> > Spike it and fill the holes with coarse sand.
>
> Another method, according to the scripts, is annual liming (followed
> by manuring 6 mths later) which breaks up the clay through a chemical
> process. This takes a while (years) to work, but has the added value
> of calcium and perhaps magnesium introduction to your soil.
I guess this works well for soil - flower beds and the like - but I doubt
spreading manure over your lawn is a good idea :-(
Perhaps a better idea would be to dig yourself some field drains. We did this at
my folks' place and it worked wonders.
--
Paul
Kostas Kavoussanakis
> Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote:
> >
> > On 4 Jun 2001, Kenneth MacDonald wrote:
> >
> > > >>>>> "Mark" == Mark Sawyer <m.sa...@epcc.ed.ac.uk> writes:
> > >
> > > Mark> Also how do I help my lawn drain better ?
> > >
> > > Spike it and fill the holes with coarse sand.
Sorry for the irregular and second reply, I have some new data from
http://muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06955.htm
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Seventy-five percent or more by volume must be mixed into heavy clay
soils before there is any improvement in aeration, internal drainage
or texture. Adding lesser amounts of sand can compound aeration and
drainage problems. Sand mixed with clay can set up into a bricklike
mixture. Peat or compost should be used instead to improve heavy clay
soils.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The above refer to the preparation before sowing/laying, but should be
relevant in our case. The site also says a few things about liming,
manuring and top-dressing.
> Perhaps a better idea would be to dig yourself some field drains.
> We did this at my folks' place and it worked wonders.
What is this?
Kostas
Paul Aitken
>
> > Perhaps a better idea would be to dig yourself some field drains.
> > We did this at my folks' place and it worked wonders.
>
> What is this?
You dig a long narrow trench across your garden (maybe 4 - 8 inches
wide), gradually increasing in depth as you go so that water will run
along it. Fill it with rubble. If it's quite long, maybe use a U shaped
liner along the bottom (eg a drain pipe cut in half lengthways) or use a
semi-permeated tube. Cover it with slate and replace the turf so it
can't be seen.
If your garden is flat, you may have to dig a sink hole (a big hole
filled with lots of rubble) at the end of the drain to give the water
somewhere to go. On the other hand, if your garden slopes away from the
house, perhaps you could let the water run out that way. Or maybe while
you're digging in the garden, you might come across a convenient drain
entrance...
Depending on the size of your garden and where you want to put the sink
hole, you might have to lay several drains in a V, Y or X shape.
The idea is that excess rainwater soaks into the drain and is channelled
away. My folks lawn used to be very soft and boggy. The grass had been
inundated with moss. During heavy rain, water would seep through the
garage wall (which is below ground level). After we dug the drains, we
could watch the rainwater pouring out the end of the drain (away from
the house) and the garage never flooded again. The garden eventually
dried out and new grass is growing there now.
--
Paul
Kostas Kavoussanakis
> You dig a long narrow trench across your garden (maybe 4 - 8 inches
[long informative text snipped]
Many thanks for this.
Kostas
alistair herkes
Kenneth MacDonald <ke...@holyrood.ed.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:yqoofs4...@penguin.ucs.ed.ac.uk...
fill it with SHARPsand