BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power resistors
that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in the MK5
design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design specs,
and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this before; it
was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very common problem.
So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you need
something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
There is a "cheaper" 30w option
here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really quickly.
Not sure how
well a 30w will do.
I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend hardware
though.
How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go on
the MK5
hardware?
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
> common problem.
> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you need
> something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
What about just pushing out the dead core of the old resistor and using
some hi-temp epoxy or other compound to secure the cartridge inside it?
There's room.
If you want to order some, at $3 I'd take 3 or 4 in case I destroy a couple.
jsc
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:12 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
> There is a "cheaper" 30w option here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ > I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
> try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really
> quickly. Not sure how
> well a 30w will do.
> I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend hardware
> though.
> How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go on
> the MK5
> hardware?
> -b
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
>> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
>> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
>> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
>> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
>> common problem.
>> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you need
>> something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
>> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
>> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
I ordered some of those cartridges, dunno how long it takes to get
here.
I didn't even think about it but I probably have enough parts from makergear
to make a makergear hotend. Which will heat up in seconds verses the
current several minutes.
It would require pulling the existing hotend off and tossing it. Though.
If I have the parts I'll try to bring them with me tonight.
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:14 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
> What about just pushing out the dead core of the old resistor and using
> some hi-temp epoxy or other compound to secure the cartridge inside it?
> There's room.
> If you want to order some, at $3 I'd take 3 or 4 in case I destroy a
> couple.
> jsc
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:12 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Not sure how to fix it with a new heating system without replacing a good
>> bit of the hotend.
>> There is a "cheaper" 30w option here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ >> I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
>> try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really
>> quickly. Not sure how
>> well a 30w will do.
>> I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend hardware
>> though.
>> How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go on
>> the MK5
>> hardware?
>> -b
>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
>>> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
>>> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
>>> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
>>> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
>>> common problem.
>>> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you
>>> need something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
>>> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
>>> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
> wrote:
> I ordered some of those cartridges, dunno how long it takes to get
> here.
> I didn't even think about it but I probably have enough parts from
> makergear
> to make a makergear hotend. Which will heat up in seconds verses the
> current several minutes.
> It would require pulling the existing hotend off and tossing it. Though.
> If I have the parts I'll try to bring them with me tonight.
> -b
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:14 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> What about just pushing out the dead core of the old resistor and using
>> some hi-temp epoxy or other compound to secure the cartridge inside it?
>> There's room.
>> If you want to order some, at $3 I'd take 3 or 4 in case I destroy a
>> couple.
>> jsc
>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:12 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
>> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Not sure how to fix it with a new heating system without replacing a
>>> good
>>> bit of the hotend.
>>> There is a "cheaper" 30w option here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ >>> I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
>>> try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really
>>> quickly. Not sure how
>>> well a 30w will do.
>>> I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend
>>> hardware though.
>>> How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go on
>>> the MK5
>>> hardware?
>>> -b
>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
>>>> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
>>>> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
>>>> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
>>>> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
>>>> common problem.
>>>> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you
>>>> need something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
>>>> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
>>>> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
I have been following the discussions from the guys at Fab Locker
(Winston-Salem), and they are experimenting with resistive wire acquired from
old toasters in protective sleeving so as to spread the heat more evenly. There
are small inverter chips, like those designed for EL wire but higher current,
that can take 12VDC input and give 90, 100 or 120VAC output to drive the wire
with (they burn up fast using DC). PWM is used to regulate the heat, and the
inverter frequency can be adjusted to make the wire quicker to react to PWM changes.
On 10/08/2012 08:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power resistors
> that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in the MK5
> design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design specs, and
> that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this before; it was fine
> until now, but now that I look online, it's a very common problem.
> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you need
> something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm taking
> suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole extruder;
> I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
> jsc
-- Scott G. Hall
Raleigh, NC, USA
ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
I had not heard of that, but it reminded me of something simpler and
already set up for 12v. I should ping those guys and tell them about it:
Someone (who shall remain nameless) once built a small handheld
flamethrower. The igniter was a coil modded from the flat spring element
found in an automotive cigarette lighter. The last one that "someone"
bought was about $5. Or so I hear.
If the cartridge heaters come in soon they're a drop-in solution, but those
12v cigarette elements are something to think about if we have to reinvent
the wheel. I wonder how a piece of that would do in this situation- the
duty cycle is a lot heavier, but then again we're not trying to get it to
glow. It would have to be jacketed; American Science and Surplus often has
mica sheet and other handy stuff.
On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 11:41 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have been following the discussions from the guys at Fab Locker
> (Winston-Salem), and they are experimenting with resistive wire acquired
> from
> old toasters in protective sleeving so as to spread the heat more evenly.
> There
> are small inverter chips, like those designed for EL wire but higher
> current,
> that can take 12VDC input and give 90, 100 or 120VAC output to drive the
> wire
> with (they burn up fast using DC). PWM is used to regulate the heat, and
> the
> inverter frequency can be adjusted to make the wire quicker to react to
> PWM changes.
> On 10/08/2012 08:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
> > BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
> resistors
> > that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in the MK5
> > design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design specs,
> and
> > that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this before; it was
> fine
> > until now, but now that I look online, it's a very common problem.
> > So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you need
> > something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
> taking
> > suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
> extruder;
> > I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
> > jsc
> --
> Scott G. Hall
> Raleigh, NC, USA
> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
> There's a mod to mate the MG hotend with the MK5 drive? The Ruttmeister is
> working very well, so I'd like to keep it if possible.
> jsc
> On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 8:30 AM, Bill Culverhouse <
> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I ordered some of those cartridges, dunno how long it takes to get
>> here.
>> I didn't even think about it but I probably have enough parts from
>> makergear
>> to make a makergear hotend. Which will heat up in seconds verses the
>> current several minutes.
>> It would require pulling the existing hotend off and tossing it. Though.
>> If I have the parts I'll try to bring them with me tonight.
>> -b
>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:14 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> What about just pushing out the dead core of the old resistor and using
>>> some hi-temp epoxy or other compound to secure the cartridge inside it?
>>> There's room.
>>> If you want to order some, at $3 I'd take 3 or 4 in case I destroy a
>>> couple.
>>> jsc
>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:12 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
>>> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Not sure how to fix it with a new heating system without replacing a
>>>> good
>>>> bit of the hotend.
>>>> There is a "cheaper" 30w option here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ >>>> I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
>>>> try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really
>>>> quickly. Not sure how
>>>> well a 30w will do.
>>>> I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend
>>>> hardware though.
>>>> How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go
>>>> on the MK5
>>>> hardware?
>>>> -b
>>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
>>>>> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
>>>>> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
>>>>> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
>>>>> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
>>>>> common problem.
>>>>> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you
>>>>> need something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
>>>>> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
>>>>> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the resistance
is just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
cutting it to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where
it'd either cause the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot
almost instantly- not a good idea.
I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with them
while waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are
some that will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is
an easy way to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
jsc
On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 12:49 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
> It's just a plate you have to laser cut. I've got some around.
> I had the MK5 drive on my makergear before the heavy MG stepper.
> b
> On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> There's a mod to mate the MG hotend with the MK5 drive? The Ruttmeister
>> is working very well, so I'd like to keep it if possible.
>> jsc
>> On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 8:30 AM, Bill Culverhouse <
>> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I ordered some of those cartridges, dunno how long it takes to get
>>> here.
>>> I didn't even think about it but I probably have enough parts from
>>> makergear
>>> to make a makergear hotend. Which will heat up in seconds verses the
>>> current several minutes.
>>> It would require pulling the existing hotend off and tossing it. Though.
>>> If I have the parts I'll try to bring them with me tonight.
>>> -b
>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:14 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> What about just pushing out the dead core of the old resistor and using
>>>> some hi-temp epoxy or other compound to secure the cartridge inside it?
>>>> There's room.
>>>> If you want to order some, at $3 I'd take 3 or 4 in case I destroy a
>>>> couple.
>>>> jsc
>>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:12 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
>>>> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> Not sure how to fix it with a new heating system without replacing a
>>>>> good
>>>>> bit of the hotend.
>>>>> There is a "cheaper" 30w option here:http://www.2engineers.com/shop/catridge-heater-30w12v/ >>>>> I'd be happy to buy a couple of these cheapies, I've been wanting to
>>>>> try one out. The one in the Ultimaker is a 40w and heats up really
>>>>> quickly. Not sure how
>>>>> well a 30w will do.
>>>>> I'm also not sure how to interface it to the existing MK5 hotend
>>>>> hardware though.
>>>>> How hard would it be to make an aluminum block that is threaded to go
>>>>> on the MK5
>>>>> hardware?
>>>>> -b
>>>>> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 8:57 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>>> BB's extruder stopped working over the weekend. Both of the power
>>>>>> resistors that provide heat were reading open circuit. It turns out that in
>>>>>> the MK5 design the resistors are being driven WAAAAAAY over their design
>>>>>> specs, and that failure is only a matter of time. I hadn't read this
>>>>>> before; it was fine until now, but now that I look online, it's a very
>>>>>> common problem.
>>>>>> So, what to do? I am researching options, but in the meantime if you
>>>>>> need something printed I'll try to get it done on my own printer. And, I'm
>>>>>> taking suggestions on how to fix this one. I'd rather not replace the whole
>>>>>> extruder; I'm quite happy with it except for this. :-(
Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at 12 volts,
so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum resister,
current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the current-limiting is
you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in normal use
(about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the plastic.
- sgh
On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
> Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the resistance is
> just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and cutting it
> to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd either cause
> the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost instantly- not
> a good idea.
> I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with them while
> waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are some that
> will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an easy way
> to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
-- Scott G. Hall
Raleigh, NC, USA
ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
the power resistors are less than a buck and have a relatively low
replacement rate. sure it's inelegant but are the alternatives really
worth it? the heater cartridge at the makerbot store is 28 bucks.
(Strangely, the j-head nozzles sold at reprapsource with heater cartridges
are cheaper than those with resistors)
I thought people were using the resistors because futzing with nichrome
wire and such was too much of a hassle.
I'll happily accept being clued-in me in if I'm missing something.
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at 12
> volts,
> so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum resister,
> current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
> resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the
> current-limiting is
> you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in normal use
> (about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the
> plastic.
> - sgh
> On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
> > Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the
> resistance is
> > just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
> cutting it
> > to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd either
> cause
> > the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost
> instantly- not
> > a good idea.
> > I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with them
> while
> > waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are some
> that
> > will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an easy
> way
> > to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
> --
> Scott G. Hall
> Raleigh, NC, USA
> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
My only issue with the PRs I've found at Mouser etc. so far is the size;
proper wattage rating for the 5 ohm resistance are larger than the ones at
MB, which are $8 and doomed to fail again. If you have a better source for
more reasonably-sized ones by all means tell me where.
I didn't look at reprapsource- I'll go there today.
jsc
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Geoffrey Tattersfield
<gtatt...@gmail.com>wrote:
> the power resistors are less than a buck and have a relatively low
> replacement rate. sure it's inelegant but are the alternatives really
> worth it? the heater cartridge at the makerbot store is 28 bucks.
> (Strangely, the j-head nozzles sold at reprapsource with heater cartridges
> are cheaper than those with resistors)
> I thought people were using the resistors because futzing with nichrome
> wire and such was too much of a hassle.
> I'll happily accept being clued-in me in if I'm missing something.
> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at 12
>> volts,
>> so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum resister,
>> current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
>> resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the
>> current-limiting is
>> you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in normal
>> use
>> (about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the
>> plastic.
>> - sgh
>> On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
>> > Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the
>> resistance is
>> > just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
>> cutting it
>> > to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd
>> either cause
>> > the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost
>> instantly- not
>> > a good idea.
>> > I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with them
>> while
>> > waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are some
>> that
>> > will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an
>> easy way
>> > to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
>> --
>> Scott G. Hall
>> Raleigh, NC, USA
>> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
I've got a working makergear hotend I was uses with PLA in the cupcake.
I was going to see if my modified MK5 legs would join right up to the
ruttmeister
but I assume it's at jeff's house.
I'd say the power resistors are painfully slow to heat up and that is why I
wouldn't
just swap new ones in.
Oh and I got an email, of a picture of the cartridge heaters and a postit
that
said "bill culverhouse's order" along with a tracking number.
I've never gotten a picture of my order before, it felt a little ransom
notey. :-)
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:09 AM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
> My only issue with the PRs I've found at Mouser etc. so far is the size;
> proper wattage rating for the 5 ohm resistance are larger than the ones at
> MB, which are $8 and doomed to fail again. If you have a better source for
> more reasonably-sized ones by all means tell me where.
> I didn't look at reprapsource- I'll go there today.
> jsc
> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Geoffrey Tattersfield <
> gtatt...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> the power resistors are less than a buck and have a relatively low
>> replacement rate. sure it's inelegant but are the alternatives really
>> worth it? the heater cartridge at the makerbot store is 28 bucks.
>> (Strangely, the j-head nozzles sold at reprapsource with heater cartridges
>> are cheaper than those with resistors)
>> I thought people were using the resistors because futzing with nichrome
>> wire and such was too much of a hassle.
>> I'll happily accept being clued-in me in if I'm missing something.
>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at 12
>>> volts,
>>> so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum resister,
>>> current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
>>> resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the
>>> current-limiting is
>>> you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in normal
>>> use
>>> (about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the
>>> plastic.
>>> - sgh
>>> On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
>>> > Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the
>>> resistance is
>>> > just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
>>> cutting it
>>> > to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd
>>> either cause
>>> > the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost
>>> instantly- not
>>> > a good idea.
>>> > I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with
>>> them while
>>> > waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are some
>>> that
>>> > will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an
>>> easy way
>>> > to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
>>> --
>>> Scott G. Hall
>>> Raleigh, NC, USA
>>> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've got a working makergear hotend I was uses with PLA in the cupcake.
> I was going to see if my modified MK5 legs would join right up to the
> ruttmeister
> but I assume it's at jeff's house.
> I'd say the power resistors are painfully slow to heat up and that is why
> I wouldn't
> just swap new ones in.
> Oh and I got an email, of a picture of the cartridge heaters and a postit
> that
> said "bill culverhouse's order" along with a tracking number.
> I've never gotten a picture of my order before, it felt a little ransom
> notey. :-)
> b
> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:09 AM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>> My only issue with the PRs I've found at Mouser etc. so far is the size;
>> proper wattage rating for the 5 ohm resistance are larger than the ones at
>> MB, which are $8 and doomed to fail again. If you have a better source for
>> more reasonably-sized ones by all means tell me where.
>> I didn't look at reprapsource- I'll go there today.
>> jsc
>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Geoffrey Tattersfield <
>> gtatt...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> the power resistors are less than a buck and have a relatively low
>>> replacement rate. sure it's inelegant but are the alternatives really
>>> worth it? the heater cartridge at the makerbot store is 28 bucks.
>>> (Strangely, the j-head nozzles sold at reprapsource with heater cartridges
>>> are cheaper than those with resistors)
>>> I thought people were using the resistors because futzing with nichrome
>>> wire and such was too much of a hassle.
>>> I'll happily accept being clued-in me in if I'm missing something.
>>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>> Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at 12
>>>> volts,
>>>> so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum resister,
>>>> current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
>>>> resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the
>>>> current-limiting is
>>>> you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in normal
>>>> use
>>>> (about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the
>>>> plastic.
>>>> - sgh
>>>> On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
>>>> > Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the
>>>> resistance is
>>>> > just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
>>>> cutting it
>>>> > to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd
>>>> either cause
>>>> > the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost
>>>> instantly- not
>>>> > a good idea.
>>>> > I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with
>>>> them while
>>>> > waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are
>>>> some that
>>>> > will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an
>>>> easy way
>>>> > to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
>>>> --
>>>> Scott G. Hall
>>>> Raleigh, NC, USA
>>>> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:12 PM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you don't pay up you'll receive a tiny piece of one of the wire leads
> in the mail. The next email will say "next time we cut off the whole thing."
> Apparently I've seen too many *giallo* films.
> jsc
> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 12:07 PM, Bill Culverhouse <
> bill.culverho...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I've got a working makergear hotend I was uses with PLA in the cupcake.
>> I was going to see if my modified MK5 legs would join right up to the
>> ruttmeister
>> but I assume it's at jeff's house.
>> I'd say the power resistors are painfully slow to heat up and that is why
>> I wouldn't
>> just swap new ones in.
>> Oh and I got an email, of a picture of the cartridge heaters and a postit
>> that
>> said "bill culverhouse's order" along with a tracking number.
>> I've never gotten a picture of my order before, it felt a little ransom
>> notey. :-)
>> b
>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:09 AM, Jeffrey Crews <cruze...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>> My only issue with the PRs I've found at Mouser etc. so far is the size;
>>> proper wattage rating for the 5 ohm resistance are larger than the ones at
>>> MB, which are $8 and doomed to fail again. If you have a better source for
>>> more reasonably-sized ones by all means tell me where.
>>> I didn't look at reprapsource- I'll go there today.
>>> jsc
>>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 11:01 AM, Geoffrey Tattersfield <
>>> gtatt...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> the power resistors are less than a buck and have a relatively low
>>>> replacement rate. sure it's inelegant but are the alternatives really
>>>> worth it? the heater cartridge at the makerbot store is 28 bucks.
>>>> (Strangely, the j-head nozzles sold at reprapsource with heater cartridges
>>>> are cheaper than those with resistors)
>>>> I thought people were using the resistors because futzing with nichrome
>>>> wire and such was too much of a hassle.
>>>> I'll happily accept being clued-in me in if I'm missing something.
>>>> On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 10:12 AM, Scott Hall <scottgha...@gmail.com>wrote:
>>>>> Remember that the lighter heater draws upwards of 20 amps or more at
>>>>> 12 volts,
>>>>> so you will want to put in a current-limiting circuit (minimum
>>>>> resister,
>>>>> current-source transistor circuit better). This in turn will raise the
>>>>> resistance seen by the power supply. Another reason for the
>>>>> current-limiting is
>>>>> you don't want the lighter element to glow red-hot as it does in
>>>>> normal use
>>>>> (about 800 degrees or more), but rather only warm enough to melt the
>>>>> plastic.
>>>>> - sgh
>>>>> On 10/12/2012 09:42 AM, Jeffrey Crews wrote:
>>>>> > Darn. I played with cigarette lighter scraps and found that the
>>>>> resistance is
>>>>> > just too low vs. the length. There's nowhere to put all of it, and
>>>>> cutting it
>>>>> > to a shorter length would just lower the resistance to where it'd
>>>>> either cause
>>>>> > the PS to shut down like a short, or it'd glow white hot almost
>>>>> instantly- not
>>>>> > a good idea.
>>>>> > I might order some other power resistors from Mouser and play with
>>>>> them while
>>>>> > waiting for those cartridge heaters to arrive - I think there are
>>>>> some that
>>>>> > will fit in the empty aluminum shells of the dead ones, which is an
>>>>> easy way
>>>>> > to mount. There might even be some in the drawers at the Splat.
>>>>> --
>>>>> Scott G. Hall
>>>>> Raleigh, NC, USA
>>>>> ScottGHa...@GMail.Com
