[dorkbotpdx-blabber] Temperature controller boards are in

[Scott Dixon]

The temperature controller boards have come in. We had a pretty amazing response and in the end I got 15 boards in this order. Since the order went in, a few more people have asked about getting a board so I'll probably be putting another set together for the next PCB order. Let me know if you want one.

I'll be charging $6.00 per board which is basically what it cost me to get them made. I'll bring the boards to the next DorkbotPDX meeting. If you really want your board before that, get in touch with me and I'll see what I can do.

I've put up a blog entry with a parts list, final Eagle files, a parts placement diagram and my current Arduino sketch for running the controller (http://dorkbotpdx.org/blog/scott_d/temperature_controller_board_final_design). Some people have asked if we can have a group build to put the boards together so maybe we can organize something. Also, since so many people asked for boards, I didn't have enough to keep one for myself. So I'd like to build one of the boards to make sure everything works. If you are willing to let me build your board, let me know by replying to this message. First one to respond will get a board which has almost all of the surface mount components soldered and some of the headers and the AVR socket and resonator soldered. It will probably cost about $5.00 or $6.00 (i haven't added up the parts cost exactly) in addition to the $6.00 for the board. I'll only do as many of the headers as I need to make sure the chip programs and the controller fun
ctions. Most of the headers will still be empty so that you can choose how you want to finish out the build. Also, I don't have the thermocouple interface chip so if you want that, you will have to add it later. And I can't give you an Atmega328P since I only have one left which I'll use for testing but I need to keep it. Eric has a bunch of 328Ps ordered so hopefully we can get them soon.

A few notes on parts sources:

You will need a suitable (HD44780 compatible) LCD. A 16x2 backlight LCD is a pretty good size so if you have one, you are good to go. You can order them from Sparkfun or just about anyone else as they are very common. Or if you don't mind doing a little scavenging, you can get a nice, apparently new, 16x2 backlight LCD from this part (http://www.surplusgizmos.com/16x2-LCD-Hitachi-HD44780-with-built-in-Keypad-and-Backlight_p_597.html) which Surplus Gizmos sells for $5.00. That is what I've been using and it is a nice little LCD for the price.

You will need to build an AC control. I used a solid state relay which I bought off of Ebay for about $6.00 and you can check with me if you want a pointer to the one I bought which has worked fine for me. The same seller has more of them. Alternatively, Surplus Gizmos has some surplus Crydom SSR units for $19.00 which look like they would be work (perhaps if we wanted a quantity of them they would give us a better price). Or you can talk to Jim about getting a board done in the next order for his AC control unit (similar to the one he showed how to build in his original surface mount Instructable at http://www.instructables.com/id/Extreme_Surface_Mount_Soldering/) or you can hand wire it from his instructions.

If you want to use the thermocouple sensor you will need to order the Maxim chip (see the parts list) from Digikey and also get a K type thermocouple. Jim and I both bought different thermocouples on line and you can ask us about those if you don't already have one.

The contrast control potentiometer specified in the parts list is a thumbwheel style which costs about $1.25 for a 10 to 20K ohm unit from Digikey. Surplus Gizmos has a 5K ohm thumbwheel style pot for $0.25 if you want to save a buck. That is what I've been using and it works fine. I'll try to pick some up next time I go out to Surplus Gizmos and have them at the next meeting if anyone wants one. Let me know.

If you have any other questions about building your board, just email me.

-scott
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[Scott Dixon]

I've got a volunteer for the test board.
-scott

On Mar 6, 2010, at 10:51 PM, Scott Dixon wrote:

> I'd like to build one of the boards to make sure everything works. If you are willing to let me build your board, let me know by replying to this message. First one to respond will get a board

_______________________________________________

[Doug Ausmus]

Any orders going in for a complete parts kit for this?

-
Doug

[Scott Dixon]

If someone wants to put together a Digikey list, that would be great. I'm a little burned out on parts lists and other details at the moment. I supplied the Digikey numbers for those parts which are not really common so that would be a starting point.
-scott

[Chris Petrauskas]

FYI, single burner hotplates are on sale at Freddy's right now. $13.99, save a a buck or so.

They're called 'Elite Cuisine by Maxi-Matic' model ESB-301F

Chris

[Laen]

Would something like this work for the solid state relay?

http://www.virtualvillage.com/40a-ssr-solid-state-relay-for-ac-devices-003602-009.html

-Laen

On Mar 6, 10:51 pm, Scott Dixon <sc...@dixons.mailworks.org> wrote:
> The temperature controller boards have come in.  We had a pretty amazing response and in the end I got 15 boards in this order.  Since the order went in, a few more people have asked about getting a board so I'll probably be putting another set together for the next PCB order.  Let me know if you want one.
>
> I'll be charging $6.00 per board which is basically what it cost me to get them made.  I'll bring the boards to the next DorkbotPDX meeting.  If you really want your board before that, get in touch with me and I'll see what I can do.
>

> I've put up a blog entry with a parts list, final Eagle files, a parts placement diagram and my current Arduino sketch for running the controller (http://dorkbotpdx.org/blog/scott_d/temperature_controller_board_final...).  Some people have asked if we can have a group build to put the boards together so maybe we can organize something.  Also, since so many people asked for boards, I didn't have enough to keep one for myself.  So I'd like to build one of the boards to make sure everything works.  If you are willing to let me build your board, let me know by replying to this message.  First one to respond will get a board which has almost all of the surface mount components soldered and some of the headers and the AVR socket and resonator soldered.  It will probably cost about $5.00 or $6.00 (i haven't added up the parts cost exactly)  in addition to the $6.00 for the board.  I'll only do as many of the headers as I need to make sure the chip programs and the controller fun

>  ctions.  Most of the headers will still be empty so that you can choose how you want to finish out the build.  Also, I don't have the thermocouple interface chip so if you want that, you will have to add it later.  And I can't give you an Atmega328P since I only have one left which I'll use for testing but I need to keep it.  Eric has a bunch of 328Ps ordered so hopefully we can get them soon.  
>
> A few notes on parts sources:
>

> You will need a suitable (HD44780 compatible) LCD.  A 16x2 backlight LCD is a pretty good size so if you have one, you are good to go.  You can order them from Sparkfun or just about anyone else as they are very common.  Or if you don't mind doing a little scavenging, you can get a nice, apparently new, 16x2 backlight LCD from this part (http://www.surplusgizmos.com/16x2-LCD-Hitachi-HD44780-with-built-in-K...) which Surplus Gizmos sells for $5.00.  That is what I've been using and it is a nice little LCD for the price.
>
> You will need to build an AC control.  I used a solid state relay which I bought off of Ebay for about $6.00 and you can check with me if you want a pointer to the one I bought which has worked fine for me.  The same seller has more of them.  Alternatively, Surplus Gizmos has some surplus Crydom SSR units for $19.00 which look like they would be work (perhaps if we wanted a quantity of them they would give us a better price).   Or you can talk to Jim about getting a board done in the next order for his AC control unit (similar to the one he showed how to build in his original surface mount Instructable athttp://www.instructables.com/id/Extreme_Surface_Mount_Soldering/) or you can hand wire it from his instructions.

>
> If you want to use the thermocouple sensor you will need to order the Maxim chip (see the parts list) from Digikey and also get a K type thermocouple.  Jim and I both bought different thermocouples on line and you can ask us about those if you don't already have one.
>
> The contrast control potentiometer specified in the parts list is a thumbwheel style which costs about $1.25 for a 10 to 20K ohm unit from Digikey.  Surplus Gizmos has a 5K ohm thumbwheel style pot for $0.25 if you want to save a buck.  That is what I've been using and it works fine.  I'll try to pick some up next time I go out to Surplus Gizmos and have them at the next meeting if anyone wants one.  Let me know.
>
> If you have any other questions about building your board, just email me.
>
> -scott
> _______________________________________________
> dorkbotpdx-blabber mailing list

> dorkbotpdx-blab...@dorkbot.orghttp://music.columbia.edu/mailman/listinfo/dorkbotpdx-blabber

[Scott Dixon]

That is exactly the hot plate we have been using. I think Target also sells a pretty similar unit but Freddy's price is the lowest I've seen.

[Scott Dixon]

I think that SSR would work fine. I bought a thermocouple from virtual village and that was fine.
The SSR I am using is http://cgi.ebay.com/New-in-Box-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-24-480V-AC-
25A_W0QQitemZ390166568662QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad7bd5ed6#ht_1571wt_1033
-scott

[Scott Dixon]

I completed the parts list with Digikey numbers for everything. Some of the stuff you probably have on hand, like female and male headers (which are cheaper out at Surplus Gizmos in any case), 2N3906 transistors, etc. The SMD caps and resistors are mostly very common and there are probably thousands in the parts bins of various dorkbots, except for the tantalum caps which are a bit more unusual. The through-hole cap is a little unusual in being shorter than the most common ones. It is the same form factor as used in the Dorkboard. The resonator is also the same as used in the Dorkboard. Remember that the Maxim thermocouple chip is a bit expensive (around $14.00) and is optional. But if you want to have a thermocouple sensor you obviously need it. Most of the headers listed can be optional depending on how you want to hook up your inputs and outputs. I've listed a 2.1mm power jack but use whatever hooks up to your wall wart. You will need to supply at least 6.5VDC an
d a couple of hundred mA should be plenty.
Remember that if you prefer you can supply 5VDC and 3.3VDC and dispense with the regulator section if you want. But the parts for that are only a couple of bucks. If anything isn't clear, let me know.
-scott

Part Value Device Package Description

3.3V REG1117 LD1117 SOT223 800mA Low Dropout (LDO) Digikey 497-1241-1-ND
5V REG1117 LD1117 SOT223 800mA Low Dropout (LDO) Digikey 497-1243-1-ND
C5 .1uF CAP0805 0805 Capacitor Digikey PCC1828CT-ND
C6 .1uF CAP0805 0805 Capacitor Digikey PCC1828CT-ND
C7 10uF CAP_POL3528 EIA3528 Tantalum Capacitor Polarized Digikey 718-1124-1-ND
C8 10uF CAP_POL3528 EIA3528 Tantalum Capacitor Polarized Digikey 718-1124-1-ND
CON PWR JCK 2.0 X 6.5MM W/O SW, Digikey CP-037A-ND

C1 10uF CAP_POLPTH2 CPOL-RADIAL-10UF-25V Capacitor Polarized Digikey P813-ND
C2 .1uF CAP0805 0805 Capacitor Digikey PCC1828CT-ND
C3 .1uF CAP0603 0603 Solder bridge for using Benito
R1 10K RESISTOR 0805 Resistor Digikey P10KACT-ND
R2 1K RESISTOR 0805 Resistor Digikey P1.0KACT-ND
R3 10K TRIM_US-B64Y B64Y POTENTIOMETER Digikey 3352T-103LF-ND
IC1 MEG3288-P MEGA328-P DIL28-3 MICROCONTROLLER + 28 pin socket
T1 2N3906-PNP-TO92-EBC TO92-EBC PNP Transistor Digikey 2N3906FS-ND
JP1 16MHz Resonator 1X03_LOCK Digkikey X908-ND

IR M05LOCK 1X05_LOCK Header 5 pin Digikey S1011E-36-ND
JP7 LCD PINHD-1X16 1X16 Female Pin Header Digikey S7054-ND
CTRL M02LOCK 1X02_LOCK Header 2 pin (or solder wires to the board)
ENC M04LOCK 1X04_LOCK Header 4 pin (or solder wires to the board)
PROG PROG M05LOCK 1X05_LOCK Header 5 pin 5 pin female header would be compatible with Dorkboards.
PWR_IN M02LOCK 1X02_LOCK Header 2 pin (or solder wires to the board)
PWR_OUT M03LOCK 1X03_LOCK Header 3 pin (or solder wires to the board)
RESET M02LOCK 1X02_LOCK Header 2 pin (or solder wires to the board)
THERMO M02LOCK 1X02_LOCK Header 2 (right angle) (or solder wires to the board)
U$1 AVR_SPI_PRG_6NS 2X3-NS AVR ISP 6 Pin Digikey A26535-40-ND

C4 .1uF CAP0805 0805 Capacitor Digikey PCC1828CT-ND
U$2 MAX6675 MAX6675 SO08 Thermocouple interface Digikey MAX6675ISA+-ND

Encoder (like Mouser 652-PEC11-4215F-S24) and/or switches to set temperature and control unit.

On Mar 6, 2010, at 11:40 PM, Doug Ausmus wrote:

[Doug Ausmus]

Even though I do have some of the parts on the list (actually quite a few) I would like to order a complete set (including the Maxim chip and the headers) so I don't have to dig around to find them all (I moved my electronics and don't have everything organized yet). Shall I just do that or can members just order 'sets' and have the appropriate parts added to the digikey order-list next time?

Let me know, either way is fine with me. I need to get to a meeting so I can pay and get the board I ordered... :-)

Thanks-
Doug

[Scott Dixon]

Hi, Doug-
Mathew Lippincott just put in an order for two full sets of parts. You could just copy and paste his order with the appropriate change in quantities. From now on, I'll keep a copy of that order as well so that if anyone asks I can just pass it along.
Scott

[Doug Ausmus]

OK, thanks Scott-

I see his order included the MAX chip, but I didn't notice the headers. I will copy his list and edit in the additional parts and post it.

Regards-
Doug

[Doug Ausmus]

Which LCD is designed into the temp ctrlr?

[Scott Dixon]

The board is set up for standard 5 volt HD44780 compatible units. They will have 16 pins (only 14 of which are used if the unit has no backlight). I recommend something like a 16x2 backlight unit since they are widely available and pretty inexpensive. The controller board has circuitry to control the backlight although you should double check the pinout for the backlight on your LCD. They seem pretty standard but I did run into one where the cathode and anode for the backlight had the pins switched.
-scott

[Doug Ausmus]

Thanks!

[Monty Goodson]

Doug,

For LCD's I'm going to try these:

QTY 1, digikey, NHD-0216K1Z-FL-YBW-ND, LCD MOD CHAR 2X16 Y/G TRANSFL

QTY 1, digikey, NHD-0216K1Z-NSW-BBW-L-ND, LCD MOD CHAR 2X16 WHT TRANSM

They're ~$11 each and use the SPLC780D driver, which is supposedly compatible with the HD44780 driver.  I haven't tried it myself yet though.

Watch out for the slightly cheaper NHD-0216BZ-FL-YBW-ND though -- it appears to have pins 1-14 reversed from the others.

Monty

-----

Monty Goodson

mon...@bittybot.com

On Mar 9, 2010, at 1:04 AM, Doug Ausmus wrote:

[Scott Dixon]

Hi, Monty-
Yes, those look like they should work. Haven't tried a SPLC780D based display but according to the web, it is compatible. The pinout is the same which is the main issue.
-scott