"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
that person around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
from another.
MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
game.
IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
As any attempt to put leather on a fish irreparably damages the slime coat, and as fish, being non-verbal, have no way of using a "safe word", I must protest in the strongest terms these irresponsible posts from these degenerate ichthysexuals.
----- Original Message ---- From: BDSM Lovers <nickistjohn13...@gmail.com> To: detritus <detritus@googlegroups.com> Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 10:34:57 AM Subject: detritus: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff, anyway?
"BDSM" is ...a lot of stuff besides.
MANY PEOPLE ... make it sound like it's all some kind of game.
>"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
>& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
>of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
>Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
>that person around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
>erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
>and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
>agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
>one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
>from another.
>MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
>WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
>Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
>game.
>IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
>WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
>http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
-- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html -----------------------------------------------------------------
This list is now by invite only. New members will have to request membership.
These changes will be active until Erik returns from vacation. New
members will also be placed on a moderated status.
On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Dave Gomberg <da...@wcf.com> wrote:
> Maybe it is time to move this list to another site where it can be
> managed better?
> At 10:34 AM 9/21/2009, BDSM Lovers wrote:
>>"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
>>& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
>>of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
>>Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
>>that person around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
>>erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
>>and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
>>agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
>>one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
>>from another.
>>MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
>>WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
>>Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
>>game.
>>IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
>>WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
>>http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
> --
> Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
> All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html > -----------------------------------------------------------------
Yay! I have fish! Okay, a couple adult male angels - who are nicely striped and healthy but since I want more of a community tank and there are too many for that, I'm offering one or more, there are a total of 5, for a new home with a suitable fish person. I rarely make it to the SF aquarium mtg, as I live in Oakland and it usually rains every time I plan to go, so am just putting it out there in case someone who loves angels would love a couple (or more).
Thanks! I can also throw in many small Java ferns and some short Anubis if it makes it more appealing. :-)
~ Deborah Weber
[The path to enlightenment is long and difficult, so... don't forget to bring snacks and something to read!]
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:58:15 -0700
> Subject: detritus: Re: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff, anyway?
> From: jasonst...@gmail.com
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> This list is now by invite only. New members will have to request membership.
> These changes will be active until Erik returns from vacation. New
> members will also be placed on a moderated status.
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Dave Gomberg <da...@wcf.com> wrote:
> > Maybe it is time to move this list to another site where it can be
> > managed better?
> > At 10:34 AM 9/21/2009, BDSM Lovers wrote:
> >>"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
> >>& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
> >>of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
> >>Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
> >>that person around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
> >>erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
> >>and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
> >>agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
> >>one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
> >>from another.
> >>MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
> >>WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
> >>Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
> >>game.
> >>IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
> >>WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
> >>http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
> > --
> > Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
> > All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
i have been breeding angels for long time . if you don't mind, i can take few off your hand, with java fern. i keep angels rainbows and rare Killie's not to mention some wild mouth bro. Betta's.
joe
--- On Mon, 9/21/09, Deborah Weber <ryningw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Deborah Weber <ryningw...@hotmail.com>
Subject: detritus: New Stuff! Yay!
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:34 PM
#yiv2140177461 .hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;padding:0px;}
#yiv2140177461 {
font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}
Yay! I have fish! Okay, a couple adult male angels - who are nicely striped and healthy but since I want more of a community tank and there are too many for that, I'm offering one or more, there are a total of 5, for a new home with a suitable fish person. I rarely make it to the SF aquarium mtg, as I live in Oakland and it usually rains every time I plan to go, so am just putting it out there in case someone who loves angels would love a couple (or more).
Thanks! I can also throw in many small Java ferns and some short Anubis if it makes it more appealing. :-)
~ Deborah Weber
[The path to enlightenment is long and difficult, so... don't forget to bring snacks and something to read!]
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:58:15 -0700
> Subject: detritus: Re: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff, anyway?
> From: jasonst...@gmail.com
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> This list is now by invite only. New members will have to request membership.
> These changes will be active until Erik returns from vacation. New
> members will also be placed on a moderated status.
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Dave Gomberg <da...@wcf.com> wrote:
> > Maybe it is time to move this list to another site where it can be
> > managed better?
> > At 10:34 AM 9/21/2009, BDSM Lovers wrote:
> >>"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
> >>& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
> >>of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
> >>Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
> >>that person around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
> >>erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
> >>and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
> >>agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
> >>one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
> >>from another.
> >>MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
> >>WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
> >>Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
> >>game.
> >>IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
> >>WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
> >>http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
> > --
> > Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
> > All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
I am sure if we rigged something with Teflon and a slime coat protector. If your breeders are not reproducing it may be due to lack of proper stimulation. Just a thought.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: p helsom <phel...@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 10:46:08 To: <detritus@googlegroups.com>
Subject: detritus: Re: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff,
anyway?
As any attempt to put leather on a fish irreparably damages the slime coat, and as fish, being non-verbal, have no way of using a "safe word", I must protest in the strongest terms these irresponsible posts from these degenerate ichthysexuals.
----- Original Message ----
From: BDSM Lovers <nickistjohn13...@gmail.com>
To: detritus <detritus@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 10:34:57 AM
Subject: detritus: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff, anyway?
"BDSM" is ...a lot of stuff besides.
MANY PEOPLE ... make it sound like it's all some kind of
game.
Hi Joe, that would be great! I likely bought the original set-of-four from you five years ago. I have one male Betta but am having no luck with breeding. Mainly I think he likes living alone.
~ Deborah Weber
[The path to enlightenment is long and difficult, so... don't forget to bring snacks and something to read!]
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:49:40 -0700
From: jdesilva0...@yahoo.com
Subject: detritus: Re: New Stuff! Yay!
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
i have been breeding angels for long time . if you don't mind, i can take few off your hand, with java fern. i keep angels rainbows and rare Killie's not to mention some wild mouth bro. Betta's.
joe
--- On Mon, 9/21/09, Deborah Weber <ryningw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
From: Deborah Weber <ryningw...@hotmail.com>
Subject: detritus: New Stuff! Yay!
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Date: Monday, September 21, 2009, 1:34 PM
Yay! I have fish! Okay, a couple adult male angels - who are nicely striped and healthy but since I want more of a community tank and there are too many for that, I'm offering one or more, there are a total of 5, for a new home with a suitable fish person. I rarely make it to the SF aquarium mtg, as I live in Oakland and it usually rains every time I plan to go, so am just putting it out there in case someone who loves angels would love a couple (or more).
Thanks! I can also throw in many small Java ferns and some short Anubis if it makes it more appealing. :-)
~ Deborah Weber
[The path to enlightenment is long and difficult, so... don't forget to bring snacks and something to read!]
> Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:58:15 -0700
> Subject: detritus: Re: BDSM? Whats with this bondage/sadomasochism stuff, anyway?
> From: jasonst...@gmail.com
> To:
> This list is now by invite only. New members will have to request membership.
> These changes will be active until Erik returns from vacation. New
> members will also be placed on a moderated status.
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Dave Gomberg <da...@wcf.com> wrote:
> > Maybe it is time to move this list to another site where it can be
> > managed better?
> > At 10:34 AM 9/21/2009, BDSM Lovers wrote:
> >>"BDSM" is an acronym of "B&D" (Bondage & Discipline), "D&S" (Dominance
> >>& Submission), and "S&M" (sadomasochism). "BDSM" refers to any or all
> >>of these things, and a lot of stuff besides.
> >>Tying up your lover is BDSM; so is flogging that person, or bossing
> >>that person
around, or any of a thousand other things. BDSM is highly
> >>erotic, usually (though not always) involves sex or sexual tension;
> >>and is highly psychologically charged. One person (the "submissive")
> >>agrees to submit to another person (the "dominant"); or, alternately,
> >>one person agrees to receive some sort of sensation, such as spanking,
> >>from another.
> >>MANY PEOPLE PRACTICE SOME ELEMENT OF BDSM IN THEIR SEXUAL LIVES
> >>WITHOUT EVEN BEING AWARE OF IT.
> >>Role-playing? Fantasy? You make it sound like it's all some kind of
> >>game.
> >>IT IS. YOU'RE EXERCISING YOUR IMAGINATION, AND YOU'RE PLAYING A GAME
> >>WITH THE OTHER PERSON. JUST TRY AT
> >>http://lavernfoxy.150m.com
> > --
> > Dave Gomberg, San Francisco
NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
> > All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html > > -----------------------------------------------------------------
I've had my pond for about 7 years now. The fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I can barely see my fishes anymore. I'm considering getting a UV light but I'm not too sure which one and how strong the bulb should be.
Spec:
Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour, approximately 3000gph.
Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently added 30% surface area full of water lettuce.
Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and according to that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I have a 9W built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
I've done some research and it could "possibly" be that there are slightly more fishes in there that recommended but I can't tell until the water clears up anyhow. My plan is to remove any goldfishes in there and keep the kois. There are 2 turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen before. I'd like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible while the weather is still nice.
I've done several ponds over the years, as long as you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then you should not have much issue.
Once you get the green water, it's tough to get rid of.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a bucket, then return after.
Adding a UV will kill it.
Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need it(disease and green water).
You might be okay with a 40W unit.
Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce, lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or sell if you can) for the garden.
You should never have an algae issue this way, it will also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from attacking fish.
Regards, Tom Barr
--- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> I've had my pond for about 7 years now. The
> fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I can barely
> see my fishes anymore. I'm considering getting a
> UV light but I'm not too sure which one and how strong
> the bulb should be.
>
> Spec:
> Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> approximately 3000gph.
> Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently added 30%
> surface area full of water lettuce.
>
> Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and according to
> that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I have a 9W
> built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
>
> I've done some research and it could
> "possibly" be that there are slightly more fishes
> in there that recommended but I can't tell until the
> water clears up anyhow. My plan is to remove any
> goldfishes in there and keep the kois. There are 2
> turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen before. I'd
> like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible while the
> weather is still nice.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Henry
> Insert movie times and more without
> leaving Hotmail®. See
> how.
>and I can barely see my fishes anymore. I'm >considering getting a UV light but I'm not too >sure which one and how strong the bulb should be.
>Spec:
>Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
>Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour, approximately 3000gph.
>Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently >added 30% surface area full of water lettuce.
>Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and >according to that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
>Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I >have a 9W built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
>I've done some research and it could "possibly" >be that there are slightly more fishes in there >that recommended but I can't tell until the >water clears up anyhow. My plan is to remove >any goldfishes in there and keep the >kois. There are 2 turtles and 2 frogs that I've >seen before. I'd like to clean up/fix the pond >as soon as possible while the weather is still nice.
-- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html -----------------------------------------------------------------
Is there a specific brand of UV light that's good or it doesn't matter?
Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to clear the water and then remove it?
Is that better than getting a light(possibly the 40W) to leave on all the time?
I have had a few lillies but they never grow too well, might be the green water? The same goes for my Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel but horrible in the pond. I recently added the water lettuce so I'll have to wait and see how that goes?
So what's the first step I should do at this point?
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> I've done several ponds over the years, as long as you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then you should not have much issue.
> Once you get the green water, it's tough to get rid of.
> An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a bucket, then return after.
> Adding a UV will kill it.
> Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
> I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need it(disease and green water).
> You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce, lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
> Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or sell if you can) for the garden.
> You should never have an algae issue this way, it will also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from attacking fish.
> Regards, > Tom Barr
> --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> > I've had my pond for about 7 years now. The
> > fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I can barely
> > see my fishes anymore. I'm considering getting a
> > UV light but I'm not too sure which one and how strong
> > the bulb should be.
> > Spec:
> > Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> > Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> > approximately 3000gph.
> > Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently added 30%
> > surface area full of water lettuce.
> > Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and according to
> > that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> > Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I have a 9W
> > built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
> > I've done some research and it could
> > "possibly" be that there are slightly more fishes
> > in there that recommended but I can't tell until the
> > water clears up anyhow. My plan is to remove any
> > goldfishes in there and keep the kois. There are 2
> > turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen before. I'd
> > like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible while the
> > weather is still nice.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Henry
> > Insert movie times and more without
> > leaving Hotmail®. See
> > how.
You can get a larger or a smaller one, up to you, but a timer works nicely.
You really do not need a UV unless you are doing disease management, or GW algae. Shortens bulb effective life to run it for no good reason.
Once the plants take over, there's really no need and the plants take care of the NH4/NO3/PO4 and all water quality issues, provide a massive surface for bacteria and nutrient export.
Focus on good plant biomass and maintain a good % cover, and you cannot go wrong.
Regards, Tom Barr
--- On Wed, 9/23/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 8:43 AM
> Hey Tom,
>
> Is there a specific brand of UV light that's good
> or it doesn't matter?
> Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to clear the
> water and then remove it?
> Is that better than getting a light(possibly the
> 40W) to leave on all the time?
>
> I have had a few lillies but they never grow too well,
> might be the green water? The same goes for my
> Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel but horrible
> in the pond. I recently added the water lettuce so
> I'll have to wait and see how that goes?
>
> So what's the first step I should do at this point?
>
> Thanks,
> Henry
>
> > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/
> UV filtration questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > I've done several ponds over the years, as long as
> you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then
> you should not have much issue.
> > Once you get the green water, it's tough to get
> rid of.
> > An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> > You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a
> full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a
> bucket, then return after.
> > Adding a UV will kill it.
> > Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
> > I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need
> it(disease and green water).
> > You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> > Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce,
> lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
> > Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove
> the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or
> sell if you can) for the garden.
> > You should never have an algae issue this way, it will
> also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from
> attacking fish.
> > Regards, > > Tom Barr
> > --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep
> <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > > Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/
> UV filtration questions
> > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> > > I've had my pond for about 7 years now.
> The
> > > fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I
> can barely
> > > see my fishes anymore. I'm considering
> getting a
> > > UV light but I'm not too sure which one and
> how strong
> > > the bulb should be.
> > >
> > > Spec:
> > > Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> > > Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> > > approximately 3000gph.
> > > Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently
> added 30%
> > > surface area full of water lettuce.
> > >
> > > Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and
> according to
> > > that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> > > Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I
> have a 9W
> > > built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
> > >
> > > I've done some research and it could
> > > "possibly" be that there are slightly
> more fishes
> > > in there that recommended but I can't tell
> until the
> > > water clears up anyhow. My plan is to
> remove any
> > > goldfishes in there and keep the kois.
> There are 2
> > > turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen
> before. I'd
> > > like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible
> while the
> > > weather is still nice.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Henry
> > > Insert movie times and more without
> > > leaving Hotmail®. See
> > > how.
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:55:39 -0700
> From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> You can get a larger or a smaller one, up to you, but a timer works nicely.
> You really do not need a UV unless you are doing disease management, or GW algae. Shortens bulb effective life to run it for no good reason.
> Once the plants take over, there's really no need and the plants take care of the NH4/NO3/PO4 and all water quality issues, provide a massive surface for bacteria and nutrient export.
> Focus on good plant biomass and maintain a good % cover, and you cannot go wrong.
> Regards, > Tom Barr
> --- On Wed, 9/23/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 8:43 AM
> > Hey Tom,
> > Is there a specific brand of UV light that's good
> > or it doesn't matter?
> > Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to clear the
> > water and then remove it?
> > Is that better than getting a light(possibly the
> > 40W) to leave on all the time?
> > I have had a few lillies but they never grow too well,
> > might be the green water? The same goes for my
> > Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel but horrible
> > in the pond. I recently added the water lettuce so
> > I'll have to wait and see how that goes?
> > So what's the first step I should do at this point?
> > Thanks,
> > Henry
> > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> > > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > I've done several ponds over the years, as long as
> > you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then
> > you should not have much issue.
> > > Once you get the green water, it's tough to get
> > rid of.
> > > An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> > > You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a
> > full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a
> > bucket, then return after.
> > > Adding a UV will kill it.
> > > Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
> > > I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need
> > it(disease and green water).
> > > You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> > > Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce,
> > lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
> > > Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove
> > the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or
> > sell if you can) for the garden.
> > > You should never have an algae issue this way, it will
> > also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from
> > attacking fish.
> > > Regards, > > > Tom Barr
> > > --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep
> > <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > > > Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > > Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> > > > I've had my pond for about 7 years now. > > The
> > > > fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I
> > can barely
> > > > see my fishes anymore. I'm considering
> > getting a
> > > > UV light but I'm not too sure which one and
> > how strong
> > > > the bulb should be.
> > > > Spec:
> > > > Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> > > > Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> > > > approximately 3000gph.
> > > > Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently
> > added 30%
> > > > surface area full of water lettuce.
> > > > Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and
> > according to
> > > > that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> > > > Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I
> > have a 9W
> > > > built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
> > > > I've done some research and it could
> > > > "possibly" be that there are slightly
> > more fishes
> > > > in there that recommended but I can't tell
> > until the
> > > > water clears up anyhow. My plan is to
> > remove any
> > > > goldfishes in there and keep the kois. > > There are 2
> > > > turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen
> > before. I'd
> > > > like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible
> > while the
> > > > weather is still nice.
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Henry
> > > > Insert movie times and more without
> > > > leaving Hotmail®. See
> > > > how.
I managed to get crystal clear water and undetectable nitrate levels in
my heavily stocked 1800gallon koi pond using a DYI plant filtration
system. If you have large Kois (I know you do), they will eat or damage
many types of plants, so you will need to setup something to keep your
plants away from your fish. Just make sure your plants are situated in
good water flow.
I agree with Tom that UV is not necessary, even in a heavily populated
pond. So, save your money. You'll just trade green water with some
form of attached algae mess and unhealthy fish, since a UV won't do
anything to nitrate/phosphate levels. A UV will actually boost nitrate
levels by killing off the algae that's been soaking it up. Setup a good
plant filter and your green water will clear up in a few days. Then
you'll be able to see your fish, and the only thing you'll have to worry
about is that herons and raccoons can see them too. If you insist on
buying a UV, then I have one that I'll gladly sell, since I have no use
for it anymore.
I think it gets too cold around here for water lettuce. I use water
hyacinth in my system with good results, and the extra plants become
food for my koi. They just love to rip the stuff up. I always have a
lot on hand, so just let me know if you want some. I believe you have
my contact info.
Oh, buy a nitrate kit and do some experiments yourself. I recommend the
one from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. I find it extremely valuable for
keeping healthy ponds and tanks.
Mike Lee
________________________________
From: detritus@googlegroups.com [mailto:detritus@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Henry Diep
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:22 PM
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration
questions
Should I add the 40+ W UV bulb for awhile and remove it once the water
clears?
Or keep it on during the day time with a timer?
Hopefully the water lettuce would thrive in there and provide the plant
biomass that I could never achieve with other plants.
Thanks,
Henry
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:55:39 -0700
> From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration
questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> You can get a larger or a smaller one, up to you, but a timer works
nicely.
> You really do not need a UV unless you are doing disease management,
or GW algae. Shortens bulb effective life to run it for no good reason.
> Once the plants take over, there's really no need and the plants take
care of the NH4/NO3/PO4 and all water quality issues, provide a massive
surface for bacteria and nutrient export.
> Focus on good plant biomass and maintain a good % cover, and you
cannot go wrong.
> Regards, > Tom Barr
> --- On Wed, 9/23/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration
questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 8:43 AM
> > Hey Tom,
> > Is there a specific brand of UV light that's good
> > or it doesn't matter?
> > Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to clear the
> > water and then remove it?
> > Is that better than getting a light(possibly the
> > 40W) to leave on all the time?
> > I have had a few lillies but they never grow too well,
> > might be the green water? The same goes for my
> > Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel but horrible
> > in the pond. I recently added the water lettuce so
> > I'll have to wait and see how that goes?
> > So what's the first step I should do at this point?
> > Thanks,
> > Henry
> > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> > > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > I've done several ponds over the years, as long as
> > you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then
> > you should not have much issue.
> > > Once you get the green water, it's tough to get
> > rid of.
> > > An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> > > You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a
> > full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a
> > bucket, then return after.
> > > Adding a UV will kill it.
> > > Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
> > > I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need
> > it(disease and green water).
> > > You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> > > Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce,
> > lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
> > > Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove
> > the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or
> > sell if you can) for the garden.
> > > You should never have an algae issue this way, it will
> > also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from
> > attacking fish.
> > > Regards, > > > Tom Barr
> > > --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep
> > <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > > > Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > > Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> > > > I've had my pond for about 7 years now. > > The
> > > > fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I
> > can barely
> > > > see my fishes anymore. I'm considering
> > getting a
> > > > UV light but I'm not too sure which one and
> > how strong
> > > > the bulb should be.
> > > > Spec:
> > > > Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> > > > Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> > > > approximately 3000gph.
> > > > Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently
> > added 30%
> > > > surface area full of water lettuce.
> > > > Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and
> > according to
> > > > that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> > > > Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I
> > have a 9W
> > > > built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
> > > > I've done some research and it could
> > > > "possibly" be that there are slightly
> > more fishes
> > > > in there that recommended but I can't tell
> > until the
> > > > water clears up anyhow. My plan is to
> > remove any
> > > > goldfishes in there and keep the kois. > > There are 2
> > > > turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen
> > before. I'd
> > > > like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible
> > while the
> > > > weather is still nice.
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Henry
> > > > Insert movie times and more without
> > > > leaving Hotmail(r). See
> > > > how.
> </html
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How's it going? Do you happen to have a picture of you DIY plant filtration? I've placed a lot of hyacinths into the pond before, but they never survive. However, they do survive in the barrels that I have. After recently adding 25% pond coverage with water lettuce, I can tell the water is clearing up a bit. How strong is your UV light and how much? Is it the tube type?
How big are your kois and how many do you keep in your pond?
I have read up about the nitrates being one of the main problems. I was hoping to remove all the goldfishes from my pond after the water clears up.
Thanks,
Henry
Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:45:43 -0700
From: Mike....@elan.com
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Hi Henry,
I managed to get crystal clear water and undetectable nitrate levels in my heavily stocked 1800gallon koi pond using a DYI plant filtration system. If you have large Kois (I know you do), they will eat or damage many types of plants, so you will need to setup something to keep your plants away from your fish. Just make sure your plants are situated in good water flow.
I agree with Tom that UV is not necessary, even in a heavily populated pond. So, save your money. You’ll just trade green water with some form of attached algae mess and unhealthy fish, since a UV won’t do anything to nitrate/phosphate levels. A UV will actually boost nitrate levels by killing off the algae that’s been soaking it up. Setup a good plant filter and your green water will clear up in a few days. Then you’ll be able to see your fish, and the only thing you’ll have to worry about is that herons and raccoons can see them too. If you insist on buying a UV, then I have one that I’ll gladly sell, since I have no use for it anymore.
I think it gets too cold around here for water lettuce. I use water hyacinth in my system with good results, and the extra plants become food for my koi. They just love to rip the stuff up. I always have a lot on hand, so just let me know if you want some. I believe you have my contact info.
Oh, buy a nitrate kit and do some experiments yourself. I recommend the one from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. I find it extremely valuable for keeping healthy ponds and tanks.
Mike Lee
From: detritus@googlegroups.com [mailto:detritus@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Henry Diep
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:22 PM
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
Should I add the 40+ W UV bulb for awhile and remove it once the water clears?
Or keep it on during the day time with a timer?
Hopefully the water lettuce would thrive in there and provide the plant biomass that I could never achieve with other plants.
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:55:39 -0700
> From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> You can get a larger or a smaller one, up to you, but a timer works nicely.
> You really do not need a UV unless you are doing disease management, or GW algae. Shortens bulb effective life to run it for no good reason.
> Once the plants take over, there's really no need and the plants take care of the NH4/NO3/PO4 and all water quality issues, provide a massive surface for bacteria and nutrient export.
> Focus on good plant biomass and maintain a good % cover, and you cannot go wrong.
> Regards, > Tom Barr
> --- On Wed, 9/23/09, Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 8:43 AM
> > Hey Tom,
> > Is there a specific brand of UV light that's good
> > or it doesn't matter?
> > Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to clear the
> > water and then remove it?
> > Is that better than getting a light(possibly the
> > 40W) to leave on all the time?
> > I have had a few lillies but they never grow too well,
> > might be the green water? The same goes for my
> > Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel but horrible
> > in the pond. I recently added the water lettuce so
> > I'll have to wait and see how that goes?
> > So what's the first step I should do at this point?
> > Thanks,
> > Henry
> > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> > > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > I've done several ponds over the years, as long as
> > you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with plants, then
> > you should not have much issue.
> > > Once you get the green water, it's tough to get
> > rid of.
> > > An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
> > > You can always cover a pond with shade cloth or get a
> > full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants out in a
> > bucket, then return after.
> > > Adding a UV will kill it.
> > > Might take a few days longer with a smaller wattage.
> > > I'd use an 80W and use it only when you need
> > it(disease and green water).
> > > You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> > > Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth, lettuce,
> > lilies etc in the first week of April, last week of March.
> > > Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and remove
> > the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and mulch(or
> > sell if you can) for the garden.
> > > You should never have an algae issue this way, it will
> > also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds from
> > attacking fish.
> > > Regards, > > > Tom Barr
> > > --- On Tue, 9/22/09, Henry Diep
> > <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > > > Subject: detritus: Need help with pea green pond/
> > UV filtration questions
> > > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > > Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 12:40 AM
> > > > I've had my pond for about 7 years now. > > The
> > > > fishes are fine but the water is pea green and I
> > can barely
> > > > see my fishes anymore. I'm considering
> > getting a
> > > > UV light but I'm not too sure which one and
> > how strong
> > > > the bulb should be.
> > > > Spec:
> > > > Pond is approximately 2200 gallons.
> > > > Pump can do a full cycle in less than an hour,
> > > > approximately 3000gph.
> > > > Slightly covered with vegetation, but recently
> > added 30%
> > > > surface area full of water lettuce.
> > > > Someone had suggested aquauv.com to me... and
> > according to
> > > > that, I may need 40 or 57W UV bulbs.
> > > > Is that quite accurate or is it too much? I
> > have a 9W
> > > > built in my filter but that doesnt help much.
> > > > I've done some research and it could
> > > > "possibly" be that there are slightly
> > more fishes
> > > > in there that recommended but I can't tell
> > until the
> > > > water clears up anyhow. My plan is to
> > remove any
> > > > goldfishes in there and keep the kois. > > There are 2
> > > > turtles and 2 frogs that I've seen
> > before. I'd
> > > > like to clean up/fix the pond as soon as possible
> > while the
> > > > weather is still nice.
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Henry
> > > > Insert movie times and more without
> > > > leaving Hotmail®. See
> > > > how.
Basically a Plant Filter is just a small separate area that has some water flow from the main tank/pond/lake that also contains the plant roots, Cattails, Rushes, Water lilies, water iris, etc all work well, it does not have to be hyacinth or lettuce.
This is not some high tech thing.
A trickle filter with some plants added on top .......even peace lilies used as house plants work well.
Hyacinth tends to die back during the winter(Late Oct to Mar) in CA.
So you need to keep it warmer, or restock each spring. We still have a severe water hyacinth weed problem in the CA delta even though it dies back, the regrowth is intense and rapidly spreads.
Water changes also work for ponds, but with higher loading with fish, large volumes, it's not particularly practical. Plants are much better option for fish, saving resources etc. They also look better.
Many wetland plants will die back during the winter here, but Koi metabolism also drops a great deal during that time(Colder) and few have issues with any algae between the Nov/Mar. So if you add lots of plants the last week in Mar, till they die off in Oct/Nov, you should be fine.
Some plant species should make it through in SF I would think.
Any of these types of hydroponic systems will work well using wetland emergent plants and if you want, you could use a small green house type cover to keep the plants growing through winter, and add a small light to help them grow.
These same systems will work on large fish rooms, discus tanks, even smaller systems for the large plant eating Cichlids/herbivores etc There is no tank or pond that cannot benefit from plants if used correctly.
> From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Thursday, September 24, 2009, 10:19 PM
> Hey Mike,
>
> How's it going? Do you happen to have a picture
> of you DIY plant filtration? I've placed a lot of
> hyacinths into the pond before, but they never
> survive. However, they do survive in the barrels that
> I have. After recently adding 25% pond
> coverage with water lettuce, I can tell the water is
> clearing up a bit. How strong is your UV light
> and how much? Is it the tube type?
> How big are your kois and how many do you keep in your
> pond?
>
> I have read up about the nitrates being one of the main
> problems. I was hoping to remove all the
> goldfishes from my pond after the water clears up.
>
> Thanks,
> Henry
>
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV
> filtration questions
> Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:45:43 -0700
> From: Mike....@elan.com
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Hi
> Henry,
> I
> managed to get crystal clear water and undetectable nitrate
> levels in my heavily stocked 1800gallon koi pond using a DYI
> plant filtration system. If you have large Kois (I
> know you do), they will eat or damage many types of plants,
> so you will need to setup something to keep your plants away
> from your fish. Just make sure your plants are
> situated in good water flow.
>
> I agree
> with Tom that UV is not necessary, even in a heavily
> populated pond. So, save your money. You’ll
> just trade green water with some form of attached algae mess
> and unhealthy fish, since a UV won’t do anything to
> nitrate/phosphate levels. A UV will actually boost
> nitrate levels by killing off the algae that’s been
> soaking it up. Setup a good plant filter and your
> green water will clear up in a few days. Then you’ll
> be able to see your fish, and the only thing you’ll have
> to worry about is that herons and raccoons can see them
> too. If you insist on buying a UV, then I have one
> that I’ll gladly sell, since I have no use for it
> anymore.
>
> I think
> it gets too cold around here for water lettuce. I use
> water hyacinth in my system with good results, and the extra
> plants become food for my koi. They just love to rip
> the stuff up. I always have a lot on hand, so just let
> me know if you want some. I believe you have my
> contact info.
>
> Oh, buy
> a nitrate kit and do some experiments yourself. I
> recommend the one from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. I
> find it extremely valuable for keeping healthy ponds and
> tanks.
>
> Mike
> Lee
>
>
> From:
> detritus@googlegroups.com [mailto:detritus@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Henry Diep
> Sent:
> Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:22 PM
> To:
> detritus@googlegroups.com
> Subject:
> detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration
> questions
>
> Should
> I add the 40+ W UV bulb for awhile and remove
> it once the water clears? > Or keep it on during the day time with a timer?
>
> Hopefully the water lettuce would thrive in there and
> provide the plant biomass that I could never achieve
> with other plants.
>
> Thanks,
> Henry
>
> > Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:55:39 -0700
> > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/
> UV filtration questions
> > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > You can get a larger or a smaller one, up to you, but
> a timer works nicely.
> > You really do not need a UV unless you are doing
> disease management, or GW algae. Shortens bulb effective
> life to run it for no good reason.
> > Once the plants take over, there's really no need
> and the plants take care of the NH4/NO3/PO4 and all water
> quality issues, provide a massive surface for bacteria and
> nutrient export.
> > Focus on good plant biomass and maintain a good %
> cover, and you cannot go wrong.
> > Regards, > > Tom Barr
> > --- On Wed, 9/23/09, Henry Diep
> <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > > From: Henry Diep <dlilaznd...@hotmail.com>
> > > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green
> pond/ UV filtration questions
> > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > Date: Wednesday, September 23, 2009, 8:43 AM
> > > Hey Tom,
> > >
> > > Is there a specific brand of UV light
> that's good
> > > or it doesn't matter?
> > > Are you suggesting that I get an 80W to
> clear the
> > > water and then remove it?
> > > Is that better than getting a light(possibly the
> > > 40W) to leave on all the time?
> > >
> > > I have had a few lillies but they never grow too
> well,
> > > might be the green water? The same goes for
> my
> > > Hyacinths... the hyacinths do well in a barrel
> but horrible
> > > in the pond. I recently added the water
> lettuce so
> > > I'll have to wait and see how that
> goes?
> > >
> > > So what's the first step I should do at this
> point?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Henry
> > >
> > > > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 09:48:20 -0700
> > > > From: tcb...@yahoo.com
> > > > Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea
> green pond/
> > > UV filtration questions
> > > > To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> > > > I've done several ponds over the years,
> as long as
> > > you maintain 30-50% of surface coverage with
> plants, then
> > > you should not have much issue.
> > > > Once you get the green water, it's tough
> to get
> > > rid of.
> > > > An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of
> cure.
> > > > You can always cover a pond with shade cloth
> or get a
> > > full sun block, wait a few days, take the plants
> out in a
> > > bucket, then return after.
> > > > Adding a UV will kill it.
> > > > Might take a few days longer with a smaller
> wattage.
> > > > I'd use an 80W and use it only when you
> need
> > > it(disease and green water).
> > > > You might be okay with a 40W unit.
> > > > Add 30-40% surface coverage of Hyacinth,
> lettuce,
> > > lilies etc in the first week of April, last week
> of March.
> > > > Allow to get to about 60-70% and harvest and
> remove
> > > the excess weeds with a pitch fork, let dry and
> mulch(or
> > > sell if you can) for the garden.
> > > > You should never have an algae issue this
> way, it will
> > > also keep the pond much cooler, and prevent birds
> from
> > > attacking fish.
-- Dave Gomberg, San Francisco NE5EE gomberg1 at wcf dot com
All addresses, phones, etc. at http://www.wcf.com/ham/info.html -----------------------------------------------------------------
Use plants, they don't parasitize fish....that is..........if you are able to spawn clams in a FW pond, which I'm doubtful. Plants also improve water quality much more whereas clams do not, they excrete NH4 and use O2. They do filter the water, and eat many things, some of which may be beneficial, but others may not be. Plants tend to be easier to care for than clams over the long term.
Stick with plants.
Consider daphnia/rotifer cultures etc.
They eat GW also.
I have doubts this will be an issue, adding clams will not hurt.
Not sure they will that effective though and likely will not do well over time. Meaning you'll have to buy more every year. I'd get a UV over clams.
I'd also get Daphnia over clams if biocontrol is the option, but plants still make the best Bio control option overall.
They also look better than any of the other options and improve water quality, reduce any need for large water changes etc.
None of the other options can make that claim.
Regards, Tom Barr
--- On Sat, 9/26/09, William Tracy <afishion...@gmail.com> wrote:
> From: William Tracy <afishion...@gmail.com>
> Subject: detritus: Re: Need help with pea green pond/ UV filtration questions
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Saturday, September 26, 2009, 8:42 PM
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 12:34 PM, Dave Gomberg <da...@wcf.com>
> wrote:
> > Try fresh water clams in a filter box where they won't
> get preyed upon.
> Sounds neat ... until the clams decide to spawn. Clam
> larvae are fish parasites.
Does anyone know which algae eater will eat the green algae spots on the glass and tubes? I currently have a bushy nose and an otto but they are not clearing the algae fast enough. It's only a 30 gallon so I'm hesitant to put in a small common pleco.
get some nerite snails, i had that problem . no more. you need more than one 4 to 6 of them .do just fine
--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Kieve Wang <kie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Kieve Wang <kie...@yahoo.com>
Subject: detritus: green spot algae on glass
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 4:56 PM
Hello,
Does anyone know which algae eater will eat the green algae spots on the glass and tubes? I currently have a bushy nose and an otto but they are not clearing the algae fast enough. It's only a 30 gallon so I'm hesitant to put in a small common pleco.
> From: joseph de silva <jdesilva0...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: detritus: Re: green spot algae on glass
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 5:28 PM
> get
> some nerite snails, i had that problem . no more. you need
> more than one 4 to 6 of them .do just fine
> --- On Sun, 9/27/09, Kieve Wang
> <kie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Kieve Wang <kie...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: detritus: green spot algae on glass
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 4:56 PM
> Hello,
> Does anyone know which algae eater will eat the green algae
> spots on the glass and tubes? I currently have a bushy nose
> and an otto but they are not clearing the algae fast enough.
> It's only a 30 gallon so I'm hesitant to put in a
> small common pleco.
I have a similar problem, but different. My tank is a 45 gal acrylic
that mostly houses Angelfish. It is planted with live plants which makes
plecos a poor choice for tank cleaning. I tried hand cleaning the
surface just by rubbing with my fingers in small areas. The algae is on
there pretty good and doesn't come off easily as it would on glass. What species of fish can I add to the cleaning crew to keep the tank
surfaces and rocks clean?
-----Original Message-----
From: detritus@googlegroups.com [mailto:detritus@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kieve Wang
Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:28 PM
To: detritus@googlegroups.com
Subject: detritus: Re: green spot algae on glass
Thank you Joe... I got 10 little plecos over the weekend at SVAS
auction, and they have been cleaning the glass with good results. :)
Anyone interested in young common pleco? $1 each.
I'm also looking for 2 or 3 young clown loaches or yoyo loaches if
anyone has any to spare.
Best regards,
Kieve
--- On Sun, 9/27/09, joseph de silva <jdesilva0...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: joseph de silva <jdesilva0...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: detritus: Re: green spot algae on glass
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 5:28 PM
> get
> some nerite snails, i had that problem . no more. you need
> more than one 4 to 6 of them .do just fine
> --- On Sun, 9/27/09, Kieve Wang
> <kie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Kieve Wang <kie...@yahoo.com>
> Subject: detritus: green spot algae on glass
> To: detritus@googlegroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 4:56 PM
> Hello,
> Does anyone know which algae eater will eat the green algae
> spots on the glass and tubes? I currently have a bushy nose
> and an otto but they are not clearing the algae fast enough.
> It's only a 30 gallon so I'm hesitant to put in a
> small common pleco.