Local (in Vic) is Lybina in Bayswater. http://shop.lybina.com/ - They have
great ABS, and I believe they are just starting to get into PLA.
I buy all of my PLA (so far) from Diamond Age in NZ -
http://diamondage.co.nz/?page_id=253 - Run by Vik Olliver (well the whole
family) and have always had a good rep, and have a huge range of colours.
Note all prices are in NZ dollars, so make sure to convert! They tend to
ship by sea for small volumes as it keeps the price down, which usually
takes ~3 weeks.
There's Bilby in NSW, but I've seen weird results with some of their
plastic, though that might be due to moisture (see below) -
http://www.bilbycnc.com.au/
Not tried myself, but Create3D also sell ABS filament and will be selling
PLA soon apparently - http://create3d.com.au/
Notes:
PLA is susceptible to absorbing moisture in the air (which can cause
issues when extruding), so needs to be kept fairly dry. I put a bag of
desiccant in the bags the filament comes in regularly, even if they seem
sealed, just to remove that extra bit of moisture.
The biggest issue with filament is consistency (usually
diameter/roundness, but sometimes other factors such as melting point).
Some of the places that sell online (eg: some Chinese sellers on eBay
predominantly, but not limited to) sell stuff that varies widely in it's
consistency. Things like plastics that are supposed to be one thing but
obviously aren't. Examples: ABS needs usually 220+ deg C whereas there has
been some supposed ABS out there that melts at 190 which really points to
it being either mixed with something or not ABS at all, or the
diameter/roundness varies wildly which makes it harder (or impossible) to
extrude in almost all current designs of 3D printers.
On 14 November 2012 10:42, Scott Penrose <sco...@dd.com.au> wrote:
> Howdy
> Where are people buying their filament and tape from for 3D printers in
> Australia?
> Ta
> Scott
> P.S. Printer arrived Monday... having a ball :-)
Also FWIW: I have a lot of PLA on hand (which I bought from Vik) and if you
need a roll fast to get started, I'll have it all at CCHS on Monday and we
can organise something.
On 14 November 2012 11:15, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Local (in Vic) is Lybina in Bayswater. http://shop.lybina.com/ - They
> have great ABS, and I believe they are just starting to get into PLA.
> I buy all of my PLA (so far) from Diamond Age in NZ -
> http://diamondage.co.nz/?page_id=253 - Run by Vik Olliver (well the whole
> family) and have always had a good rep, and have a huge range of colours.
> Note all prices are in NZ dollars, so make sure to convert! They tend to
> ship by sea for small volumes as it keeps the price down, which usually
> takes ~3 weeks.
> There's Bilby in NSW, but I've seen weird results with some of their
> plastic, though that might be due to moisture (see below) -
> http://www.bilbycnc.com.au/
> Not tried myself, but Create3D also sell ABS filament and will be selling
> PLA soon apparently - http://create3d.com.au/
> Notes:
> PLA is susceptible to absorbing moisture in the air (which can cause
> issues when extruding), so needs to be kept fairly dry. I put a bag of
> desiccant in the bags the filament comes in regularly, even if they seem
> sealed, just to remove that extra bit of moisture.
> The biggest issue with filament is consistency (usually
> diameter/roundness, but sometimes other factors such as melting point).
> Some of the places that sell online (eg: some Chinese sellers on eBay
> predominantly, but not limited to) sell stuff that varies widely in it's
> consistency. Things like plastics that are supposed to be one thing but
> obviously aren't. Examples: ABS needs usually 220+ deg C whereas there has
> been some supposed ABS out there that melts at 190 which really points to
> it being either mixed with something or not ABS at all, or the
> diameter/roundness varies wildly which makes it harder (or impossible) to
> extrude in almost all current designs of 3D printers.
> On 14 November 2012 10:42, Scott Penrose <sco...@dd.com.au> wrote:
>> Howdy
>> Where are people buying their filament and tape from for 3D printers in
>> Australia?
>> Ta
>> Scott
>> P.S. Printer arrived Monday... having a ball :-)
On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Also FWIW: I have a lot of PLA on hand (which I bought from Vik) and if you need a roll fast to get started, I'll have it all at CCHS on Monday and we can organise something.
Thanks Stuart. I can't get this this Monday, but maybe the next.
I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1 days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
PLA is very forgiving when printing, especially when you're starting out.
Certain objects you can have real issues printing in ABS that print fine
with PLA.
An example is a large object that John Bosha was trying to print in ABS
that kept pulling itself apart as the object started to cool (he tried like
5 times from memory). His first attempt at printing the same object in PLA
just worked.
PLA can also be used for metal casting (print your object in clear PLA), in
place of the traditional wax objects used in lost wax casting. At a high
enough temp, clear PLA vaporises completely and leaves no residue, making
it perfect for creating a cast for use with metals like aluminium, brass,
or even steel. Note that you need to understand that the metal will shrink
as it cools, and to take this into account if you want dimensionally
accurate cast parts.
PLA is also biodegradable and more natural (comes from corn fibre, not
petroleum/oil). When it breaks down, mainly due to excess heat (eg: running
it too hot, using it for casting, or if you set it on fire somehow), the
chemicals aren't toxic (like you get from ABS and other plastics). Even
during operation, ABS produces fumes that aren't nice, and some people
(notably people with asthma) can have real issues with ABS fumes.
That said, PLA starts to deform if you leave it in a hot environment for
too long (eg: 65-70 deg C), and is useless for holding hot water. If I need
something that needs to be used in a hot environment, I tend to use PLA for
prototyping the part, and then get someone to print it in ABS for me (as I
won't put ABS in my printer, since I use it inside all the time).
Also acetone doesn't really interact with PLA, which means you can't use
acetone to "glue" a broken part (or any two pieces) together like you can
with ABS. You need to use a more traditional glue suitable for plastics
like UHU hart, Krazy glue, or the like.
On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 12:20 PM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
> PLA is very forgiving when printing, especially when you're starting out.
> Certain objects you can have real issues printing in ABS that print fine
> with PLA.
> An example is a large object that John Bosha was trying to print in ABS
> that kept pulling itself apart as the object started to cool (he tried like
> 5 times from memory). His first attempt at printing the same object in PLA
> just worked.
> PLA can also be used for metal casting (print your object in clear PLA),
> in place of the traditional wax objects used in lost wax casting. At a high
> enough temp, clear PLA vaporises completely and leaves no residue, making
> it perfect for creating a cast for use with metals like aluminium, brass,
> or even steel. Note that you need to understand that the metal will shrink
> as it cools, and to take this into account if you want dimensionally
> accurate cast parts.
> PLA is also biodegradable and more natural (comes from corn fibre, not
> petroleum/oil). When it breaks down, mainly due to excess heat (eg: running
> it too hot, using it for casting, or if you set it on fire somehow), the
> chemicals aren't toxic (like you get from ABS and other plastics). Even
> during operation, ABS produces fumes that aren't nice, and some people
> (notably people with asthma) can have real issues with ABS fumes.
> That said, PLA starts to deform if you leave it in a hot environment for
> too long (eg: 65-70 deg C), and is useless for holding hot water. If I need
> something that needs to be used in a hot environment, I tend to use PLA for
> prototyping the part, and then get someone to print it in ABS for me (as I
> won't put ABS in my printer, since I use it inside all the time).
> Also acetone doesn't really interact with PLA, which means you can't use
> acetone to "glue" a broken part (or any two pieces) together like you can
> with ABS. You need to use a more traditional glue suitable for plastics
> like UHU hart, Krazy glue, or the like.
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> On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 12:20 PM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> PLA is very forgiving when printing, especially when you're starting out.
>> Certain objects you can have real issues printing in ABS that print fine
>> with PLA.
>> An example is a large object that John Bosha was trying to print in ABS
>> that kept pulling itself apart as the object started to cool (he tried like
>> 5 times from memory). His first attempt at printing the same object in PLA
>> just worked.
>> PLA can also be used for metal casting (print your object in clear PLA),
>> in place of the traditional wax objects used in lost wax casting. At a high
>> enough temp, clear PLA vaporises completely and leaves no residue, making
>> it perfect for creating a cast for use with metals like aluminium, brass,
>> or even steel. Note that you need to understand that the metal will shrink
>> as it cools, and to take this into account if you want dimensionally
>> accurate cast parts.
>> PLA is also biodegradable and more natural (comes from corn fibre, not
>> petroleum/oil). When it breaks down, mainly due to excess heat (eg: running
>> it too hot, using it for casting, or if you set it on fire somehow), the
>> chemicals aren't toxic (like you get from ABS and other plastics). Even
>> during operation, ABS produces fumes that aren't nice, and some people
>> (notably people with asthma) can have real issues with ABS fumes.
>> That said, PLA starts to deform if you leave it in a hot environment for
>> too long (eg: 65-70 deg C), and is useless for holding hot water. If I need
>> something that needs to be used in a hot environment, I tend to use PLA for
>> prototyping the part, and then get someone to print it in ABS for me (as I
>> won't put ABS in my printer, since I use it inside all the time).
>> Also acetone doesn't really interact with PLA, which means you can't use
>> acetone to "glue" a broken part (or any two pieces) together like you can
>> with ABS. You need to use a more traditional glue suitable for plastics
>> like UHU hart, Krazy glue, or the like.
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Connected Community HackerSpace" group.
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>> connected-community-hackerspace@googlegroups.com.
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> --
> Stuart (Auzze) Mitchell
> Australia
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> PLA is very forgiving when printing, especially when you're starting out. Certain objects you can have real issues printing in ABS that print fine with PLA.
> An example is a large object that John Bosha was trying to print in ABS that kept pulling itself apart as the object started to cool (he tried like 5 times from memory). His first attempt at printing the same object in PLA just worked.
> PLA can also be used for metal casting (print your object in clear PLA), in place of the traditional wax objects used in lost wax casting. At a high enough temp, clear PLA vaporises completely and leaves no residue, making it perfect for creating a cast for use with metals like aluminium, brass, or even steel. Note that you need to understand that the metal will shrink as it cools, and to take this into account if you want dimensionally accurate cast parts.
> PLA is also biodegradable and more natural (comes from corn fibre, not petroleum/oil). When it breaks down, mainly due to excess heat (eg: running it too hot, using it for casting, or if you set it on fire somehow), the chemicals aren't toxic (like you get from ABS and other plastics). Even during operation, ABS produces fumes that aren't nice, and some people (notably people with asthma) can have real issues with ABS fumes.
> That said, PLA starts to deform if you leave it in a hot environment for too long (eg: 65-70 deg C), and is useless for holding hot water. If I need something that needs to be used in a hot environment, I tend to use PLA for prototyping the part, and then get someone to print it in ABS for me (as I won't put ABS in my printer, since I use it inside all the time).
> Also acetone doesn't really interact with PLA, which means you can't use acetone to "glue" a broken part (or any two pieces) together like you can with ABS. You need to use a more traditional glue suitable for plastics like UHU hart, Krazy glue, or the like.
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Connected Community HackerSpace" group.
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On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1 days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a better way to unroll it.)
However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can withstand higher temperatures.
I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw for the small gear.
So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda
looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
April Staines - Melbourne AU
On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holger-c...@wolffh.de> wrote:
> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but
>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. This
> contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
> better way to unroll it.)
> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
> withstand higher temperatures.
> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw
> for the small gear.
> Cheers,
> Holger
> --
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> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can
> kinda looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
Grey should be possible, but metallic particles would be very bad for
the 3d printing process.
How about printing it in some generic ABS and then spray-painting it?
Barbara did that for buttons for a costume.
> On 15/11/12 11:05, April Staines wrote:
>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
>> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can
>> kinda looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
> Grey should be possible, but metallic particles would be very bad for
> the 3d printing process.
> How about printing it in some generic ABS and then spray-painting it?
> Barbara did that for buttons for a costume.
> Cheers,
> Holger
> --
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> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda
> looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> April Staines - Melbourne AU
> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holger-c...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>> Hello
>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but
>>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. This
>> contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
>> better way to unroll it.)
>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
>> withstand higher temperatures.
>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw
>> for the small gear.
>> Cheers,
>> Holger
>> --
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I'm sure I've seen some metallic colored filament at the space, I think it was Cef's?
Just had a quick look at Vik's site (Diamond Age Solutions) and he's currently got metallic gold, metallic silver and "lilac pearl" (which is a sort of metallic blue) PLA listed.
On Thursday, 15 November 2012 11:05:15 UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament > that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda > looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- > April Staines - Melbourne AU
> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de <javascript:>>wrote:
>> Hello
>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com <javascript:>> >>> wrote: >>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but >>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my >>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1 >>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. This >> contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now >> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a >> better way to unroll it.)
>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is >> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my >> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a >> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I >> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can >> withstand higher temperatures.
>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw >> for the small gear.
>> Cheers, >> Holger
>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Connected Community HackerSpace" group. >> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-** >> hackerspace@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-** >> hackerspace+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out> >> .
I get my PLA from http://www.repraper.com/ and have not had any problems with it, it costs about $15 per Kg roll but as it is send from HongKong via Fedex it costs about $15 per Kg for shipping so about $30 per roll. (shipping time is about 2-3days)
Lybina in Bayswater are good for ABS, They don't list PLA on the site but are very helpful and allow pickup, I would use them but use PLA. (shipping via Auspost or pickup)
http://store.ozreprap.com/ is another supplier based out of Sydney, they stock ABS and PLA at about $69 fer 2.3kg rolls and shipped via Fastway ($15) (shipping time was 1 week)
Remember that filament does not like moisture. I left my PLA exposed for a few weeks and it became very brittle and impossible to use (after using a hair dryer on the roll it came good again).
there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote: > So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament > that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda > looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
> ------------------------------------------------------------------- > April Staines - Melbourne AU
> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de <javascript:>>wrote:
>> Hello
>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com <javascript:>> >>> wrote: >>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but >>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my >>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1 >>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. This >> contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now >> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a >> better way to unroll it.)
>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is >> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my >> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a >> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I >> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can >> withstand higher temperatures.
>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw >> for the small gear.
>> Cheers, >> Holger
>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Connected Community HackerSpace" group. >> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-** >> hackerspace@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-** >> hackerspace+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com <javascript:>. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out> >> .
I have 6 colours of their PLA that I'll bring along on Monday.
I'm looking to put another order in. The postage gets cheaper the more you buy. If people are interested, I'll order stuff for them as well, reducing the overall cost.
> there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or > even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have > yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
> Garry > On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament >> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda >> looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------- >> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>>> Hello
>>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but >>>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my >>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1 >>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling. >>> This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now >>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a >>> better way to unroll it.)
>>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is >>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my >>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a >>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I >>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can >>> withstand higher temperatures.
>>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw >>> for the small gear.
>>> Cheers, >>> Holger
>>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "Connected Community HackerSpace" group. >>> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-** >>> hackerspace@googlegroups.com. >>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-** >>> hackerspace+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out> >>> .
> I have 6 colours of their PLA that I'll bring along on Monday.
> I'm looking to put another order in. The postage gets cheaper the more
> you buy. If people are interested, I'll order stuff for them as well,
> reducing the overall cost.
> Peter.
> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 6:26:54 PM UTC+11, Garry Stone wrote:
>> repraper do their own version of galaxy blue in abs (and pla as well)
>> there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or
>> even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have
>> yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
>> Garry
>> On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
>>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
>>> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda
>>> looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
>>> ------------------------------**------------------------------**-------
>>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>>> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>>>> Hello
>>>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>>>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes, but
>>>>> not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>>>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>>>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>>>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling.
>>>> This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
>>>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
>>>> better way to unroll it.)
>>>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
>>>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
>>>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
>>>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
>>>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
>>>> withstand higher temperatures.
>>>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub screw
>>>> for the small gear.
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Holger
>>>> --
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>>>> .
>>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> Totally in on this if you havent already done the order.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> April Staines - Melbourne AU
> On 17 November 2012 20:25, PandPP <pan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I use RepRaper.
>> I have 6 colours of their PLA that I'll bring along on Monday.
>> I'm looking to put another order in. The postage gets cheaper the more
>> you buy. If people are interested, I'll order stuff for them as well,
>> reducing the overall cost.
>> Peter.
>> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 6:26:54 PM UTC+11, Garry Stone wrote:
>>> repraper do their own version of galaxy blue in abs (and pla as well)
>>> there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or
>>> even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have
>>> yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
>>> Garry
>>> On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
>>>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS filament
>>>> that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it can kinda
>>>> looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
>>>> ------------------------------**------------------------------**-------
>>>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>>>> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>>>>> Hello
>>>>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>>>>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes,
>>>>>> but not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>>>>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>>>>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>>>>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling.
>>>>> This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
>>>>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
>>>>> better way to unroll it.)
>>>>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
>>>>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
>>>>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
>>>>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
>>>>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
>>>>> withstand higher temperatures.
>>>>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub
>>>>> screw for the small gear.
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Holger
>>>>> --
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>> Groups "Connected Community HackerSpace" group.
>>>>> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-**
>>>>> hackerspac**e@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-**
>>>>> hackerspac**e+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com**.
>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**grou**ps/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out>
>>>>> .
>>>> --
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/connected-community-hackerspace/-/aJ2... >> .
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>> Totally in on this if you havent already done the order.
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>> On 17 November 2012 20:25, PandPP <pan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I use RepRaper.
>>> I have 6 colours of their PLA that I'll bring along on Monday.
>>> I'm looking to put another order in. The postage gets cheaper the more
>>> you buy. If people are interested, I'll order stuff for them as well,
>>> reducing the overall cost.
>>> Peter.
>>> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 6:26:54 PM UTC+11, Garry Stone wrote:
>>>> repraper do their own version of galaxy blue in abs (and pla as well)
>>>> there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or
>>>> even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have
>>>> yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
>>>> Garry
>>>> On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
>>>>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS
>>>>> filament that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it
>>>>> can kinda looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
>>>>> ------------------------------**------------------------------**
>>>>> -------
>>>>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>>>>> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>>>>>> Hello
>>>>>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>>>>>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes,
>>>>>>> but not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>>>>>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>>>>>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>>>>>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling.
>>>>>> This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
>>>>>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
>>>>>> better way to unroll it.)
>>>>>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
>>>>>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
>>>>>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
>>>>>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
>>>>>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
>>>>>> withstand higher temperatures.
>>>>>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub
>>>>>> screw for the small gear.
>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>> Holger
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>>> Groups "Connected Community HackerSpace" group.
>>>>>> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-**
>>>>>> hackerspac**e@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-**
>>>>>> hackerspac**e+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com**.
>>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**grou**ps/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out>
>>>>>> .
>>>>> --
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>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/connected-community-hackerspace/-/aJ2... >>> .
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> --
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>>> Totally in on this if you havent already done the order.
>>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>>> On 17 November 2012 20:25, PandPP <pan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> I use RepRaper.
>>>> I have 6 colours of their PLA that I'll bring along on Monday.
>>>> I'm looking to put another order in. The postage gets cheaper the more
>>>> you buy. If people are interested, I'll order stuff for them as well,
>>>> reducing the overall cost.
>>>> Peter.
>>>> On Saturday, November 17, 2012 6:26:54 PM UTC+11, Garry Stone wrote:
>>>>> repraper do their own version of galaxy blue in abs (and pla as well)
>>>>> there have been plenty of reports that repraper abs isnt very good, or
>>>>> even as good as their pla. I do have a roll of their black abs, but have
>>>>> yet to even use it so cant comment on the quality or consistency first hand
>>>>> Garry
>>>>> On Thursday, November 15, 2012 11:05:15 AM UTC+11, April Staines wrote:
>>>>>> So while we are on the subject, do we know if anyone makes ABS
>>>>>> filament that is either grey, and or has metallic particles in it, eg it
>>>>>> can kinda looks sparkly? Am I asking for too much? :-)
>>>>>> ------------------------------**------------------------------**
>>>>>> -------
>>>>>> April Staines - Melbourne AU
>>>>>> On 14 November 2012 23:27, Holger <holge...@wolffh.de> wrote:
>>>>>>> Hello
>>>>>>> On Wed, 14 Nov 2012, Scott Penrose wrote:
>>>>>>> On 14/11/2012, at 11:16 AM, Stuart Young <cef...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>> I read that it is a little easier to print in PLA, and less fumes,
>>>>>>>> but not as strong. Mostly I note that PLA seems to cost heaps more. So my
>>>>>>>> question is then. If I am getting ok results in ABS, why use PLA? (note: 1
>>>>>>>> days printing, makes an expert not) :-)
>>>>>>> It seems to be easier, because there is less contraction on cooling.
>>>>>>> This contraction often leads my prints to tear themselves apart. I have now
>>>>>>> started to print PLA, but haven't got it reliable yet. (Also, I need a
>>>>>>> better way to unroll it.)
>>>>>>> However, I think (others should correct me if I'm wrong) that PLA is
>>>>>>> actually stronger, but more brittle. I have had problems with my
>>>>>>> micro-extruder, I have now printed a uniX (similar to Greg/Wade) to use a
>>>>>>> more traditional one. I printed the gears on that one in PLA because I
>>>>>>> think ABS would be too soft. I printed the rest in ABS because it can
>>>>>>> withstand higher temperatures.
>>>>>>> I'll let you know how it pans out. At the moment I need a M3 grub
>>>>>>> screw for the small gear.
>>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>> Holger
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>>>> Groups "Connected Community HackerSpace" group.
>>>>>>> To post to this group, send an email to connected-community-**
>>>>>>> hackerspac**e@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to connected-community-**
>>>>>>> hackerspac**e+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.com**.
>>>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**grou**ps/opt_out<https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out>
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>> --
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/connected-community-hackerspace/-/aJ2... >>>> .
>>> --
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