Is there a program to mount a HD like the condition my HD is in?
Thanks,
liu
Not good.
> It gave a
> message that the HD needed to be formatted to use. The drive changed
> its name to "Local Drive."
That is what it does, if reading the MBR fails.
> I tried a few programs and it seems that I
> can recover files with programs such as R-Studio but I can't mount the
> drive. It's rather inconvenient to retrieve files this way.
Count yourself lycky you can retrive files.
> I'd like
> to mount the drive and copy some files and then reformat the drive.
Not a good idea. Expect it do die completely any time.
> Is there a program to mount a HD like the condition my HD is in?
No. And you can expect that this disk will die completely very soon.
Arno
This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2 years.
I think this is a hardware problem, yes.
> This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
> that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
> buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2 years.
They used to be good, just like IBM. However theri new "made in
china" drives are really bad, and that they let them get to
market is a strong reason not to buy Seagate again until their
is good reason to believe they got their act together again.
I think currently you can only buy Samsung or Hitachi. WD
is really as bad as the rumours are, with drives that have
long error recovery latency. And Maxtor, well, don't think I
need to comment. I used to think thet their drive quality would
improve when Seagate bought them, but it seems to have worked
out the other way round.
Arno
Findandmount.
>
> Thanks,
>
> liu
Thanks for the help,
> This one is the 500GB Seagate (ST350064) made in Singapore. I decided
> to experiment to see what I can get from this drive. I formatted it
> with Vista and it took 7 hours. It probably found many bad sectors but
> it still showed 465GB of space. Does windows formatting tool screen
> out the bad sectors so data won't be written on the bad sectors?
I think it does on a long (slow) format. The problem is that
a large number of defects in a modern HDD is very likely not due
to surface defects, but some other problem, i.e. the defects are
not done with when they are mapped out, but new ones will
appear.
> It's
> probably not a safe HD to use anyway. What program can I find the
> condition of the HD so I can request for a warranty replacement? Under
> what condition will they allow replacement?
The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. If the
procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
If you really have to kill the drive, any tool that writes data to it
in a loop should to, though some amount of random access helps. I did
this once by decompressing Linux kernel sources to a drive and then
deleting them again. Loop until drive fails. A disk wiper set to
maximum number of overwrites may also do the trick. This approach is
best done with a test system or left running when at
work/shool/whatever. Took 3 days to kill the drive permanently in my
case (old maxtor 200GB drive).
Arno
Thanks for the advice!
Nope, the drive itself does, not Win.
> The problem is that a large number of defects in a modern HDD
> is very likely not due to surface defects, but some other problem,
Always, not very likely.
> i.e. the defects are not done with when they are mapped out,
The english makes no sense there.
> but new ones will appear.
Yep.
>> It's probably not a safe HD to use anyway. What program can I find
>> the condition of the HD so I can request for a warranty replacement?
>> Under what condition will they allow replacement?
> The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website. If the
> procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed status,
> sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore (they
> usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
> If you really have to kill the drive, any tool that writes data to it
> in a loop should to, though some amount of random access helps.
> I did this once by decompressing Linux kernel sources to a drive
> and then deleting them again. Loop until drive fails. A disk wiper
> set to maximum number of overwrites may also do the trick.
> This approach is best done with a test system or left running
> when at work/shool/whatever. Took 3 days to kill the drive
> permanently in my case (old maxtor 200GB drive).
I killed one with a lab power supply. Surprisingly hard to kill but I
did eventually manage to blow the side right out of one of the ics.
>> The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website.
>> If the procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other failed
>> status, sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not detected anymore
>> (they usually do not check the disk, just send you a replacement).
> They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the
> quality of refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing
> and fix things before putting them out as refurbished drives?
Yes, but if the fault is intermittent, it may not be visible when they do that.
> This drive is still formattable and probably will
> resurface as a refurbished drive again soon.
Not if they can see the problem when it gets back to them.
> What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my concern valid?
No, some refurbished drives have been properly fixed.
> I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting more than one year so far.
How long do the new ones last ?
> And all of these were not used as main drives. They were turned on only when needed.
> Is there a program you can test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
Not with an intermittent fault.
> Thanks for the advice!
Wellm for modern drive the only thing you can do is a long
SMART selftest. Not too reliable, unfortunately.
Arno
cpliu wrote:
> I have this external USB HD that I only turn it on when needed. One
> time, when trying to mount, it asked if I would like to check the HD.
> I clicked yes, and it started checking for a while but stopped at 99%.
> Maybe I was too impatient, I turn it off and tried to mount it again.
> After attempting with disk reading noise, it couldn't. It gave a
> message that the HD needed to be formatted to use.
www.hddguru.com has some diagnostics, including the self-booting MHDD.
Is it possible to remove the HD from the USB enclosure and plug it
directly to a parallel or serial IDE connector so that the HD
manufacturer's own diagnostics can be run on it? Could the HD itself
be OK but the USB enclosure be the problem? Some enclosures have
internal power supplies that are terribly built.
Arno Wagner wrote:
> Previously cpliu <spamf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > This is a replacement drive. Gee they give you a refurbished drive
> > that does not last even more than 3 months. What a crap. I will not
> > buy any Seagate drive again. None of them survive more than 2 years.
>
> They used to be good, just like IBM. However their new "made in
> china" drives are really bad, and that they let them get to
> market is a strong reason not to buy Seagate again until their
> is good reason to believe they got their act together again.
>
> I think currently you can only buy Samsung or Hitachi. WD
> is really as bad as the rumours are, with drives that have
> long error recovery latency. And Maxtor, well, don't think I
> need to comment. I used to think thet their drive quality would
> improve when Seagate bought them, but it seems to have worked
> out the other way round.
Is Samsung quality really OK? Because I recently bought a Samsung
750GB model HD753LJ, and the first sample vibrated more than any other
HD I've tried, except for a Buffalo external USB drive that contained
a 250GB Samsung. The second Samsung 750GB sample has been fine,
though, and I like the 5-year warranty.
> Arno Wagner wrote:
>> Previously cpliu <spamf...@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have several Samsungs, and yes, most of them vibrate. It is
an issue when installing more than one (you get very annoying
inteference), but it does not seem to affect reliability.
The oldest one I have still in use is about 4.5 years old,
vibrates and is perfectly fine otherwise.
Arno
Nonsense.
>
> > I tried a few programs and it seems that I can recover files
> > with programs such as R-Studio but I can't mount the drive.
> > It's rather inconvenient to retrieve files this way.
>
> Count yourself lycky you can retrive files.
>
> > I'd like to mount the drive and copy some files and then reformat the drive.
> Not a good idea. Expect it do die completely any time.
Utter nonsense. That's what you should expect of any drive.
That's why one does backups.
>
> > Is there a program to mount a HD like the condition my HD is in?
> No.
Really?
> And you can expect that this disk will die completely very soon.
Only because it was shutdown while it was writing.
Oh Babblebot, you're insights are the greatest.
>
> Arno
Nonsense.
With intermittent faults one uses the exerciser portion of a diagnostic.
Or just use Bart's DiskTool.
Babblebot, as cluesless as it 'll always be.
> Not too reliable, unfortunately.
Hell no, shock horror. And that's what you always recommended, babblebot.
>
> Arno
Bwahahah.
>
> > The problem is that a large number of defects in a modern HDD
> > is very likely not due to surface defects, but some other problem,
> Always, not very likely.
The english makes no sense there either.
>
> > i.e. the defects are not done with when they are mapped out,
> The english makes no sense there.
Because he's not, obviously.
> Nonsense.
>> No.
> Really?
>>
>> Arno
Impersonating other people again, because nobody is listening
tou you anymore? Pathetic.
Arno
>>>> The easiest solution is to get an RMA number from the website.
>>>> If the procedure there requires a failed SMART status or other
>>>> failed status, sometimes it helps to claim the disk is not
>>>> detected anymore (they usually do not check the disk, just send
>>>> you a replacement).
>>> They didn't ask last time. That made me wonder about the
>>> quality of refurbished drives. Do they go through strict testing
>>> and fix things before putting them out as refurbished drives?
>> Yes, but if the fault is intermittent, it may not be visible when they do that.
>>> This drive is still formattable and probably will
>>> resurface as a refurbished drive again soon.
>> Not if they can see the problem when it gets back to them.
>>> What I'm getting back is probably just as bad or worse. Is my concern valid?
>> No, some refurbished drives have been properly fixed.
>>> I never had a refurbished drives (4-5 so far) lasting more than one
>>> year so far.
>> How long do the new ones last ?
>>> And all of these were not used as main drives. They were
>>> turned on only when needed. Is there a program you can
>>> test to make sure it's a good drive after getting a drive?
>> Not with an intermittent fault.
> Nonsense.
Your sig is supposed to be last, with a line with -- on it by itself in front of it, you stupid pseudokraut.
> With intermittent faults one uses the exerciser portion of a diagnostic.
Pity that doesnt MAKE SURE that is a good drive, you stupid pseudokraut.
> Or just use Bart's DiskTool.
Pity that doesnt MAKE SURE that is a good drive, you stupid pseudokraut.
> including the self-booting MHDD.
Personally I find that one a big disappointment.
A whole lot of feature tool with a little bit of drive fitness test in it.
A bit of a jack of all trades, master of none.
>
> Is it possible to remove the HD from the USB enclosure and plug it
> directly to a parallel or serial IDE connector so that the HD
> manufacturer's own diagnostics can be run on it? Could the HD itself
> be OK but the USB enclosure be the problem?
> Some enclosures have internal power supplies that are terribly built.
Which can lead to bad writes ('bad' sectors).
I think it start having problem because I bring it to work. My table
is not that stable that it shakes a little bit when typing or when I
place my arms on it. How much shock can a modern HD resist? Will minor
shake cause the HD to malfunction? How long do I need to wait before
moving a HD after powering it off? The current 500GB and above HDs in
the market do not appear to be stable from reading the users' reviews.
Thanks for any advice,