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Switches and Protocals, Compared

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E. Lee Dickinson

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Jul 13, 2005, 8:10:31 PM7/13/05
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Okay, I've been trying to find a concise comparison between various dimmer
switches using the various technologies.

The switches must have the following capabilities:

1) Top/on, bottom/off
2) Local dimming
3) ramp up/down
4) preset dim
5) resume dim (preferably)
6) 600w or greater load capacity

2-way isn't really necessary for me, though it'd be nice. Scene control
isn't, since my computer handles that.

In ascending price (and I assume reliablity) order, it seems the options
are:

Smarthome X10 Switchlinc (~$35)
Smarthome Insteon Switchlinc (~$70)
ZWave ($75)
UPB ($75, but I figure you'd get the $80 universal base for flexibility)
RadioRA ($150)

The Smarthome Switchlinc (X10) really only has a significant price advantage
when you get the basic version. If you get the 2-way version with scene
settings (making it a more comparable product to the rest listed) it's right
up there with the others.

So.

What am I missing? Can someone fill in some details about reliability, where
to buy, what to know about pros and cons of each technology? I'm having a
lot of trouble finding a comparison in one place.

Thanks for your suggestions --

:Lee


AutomatedOutlet.com

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Jul 14, 2005, 10:42:09 AM7/14/05
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Hi Lee,

I think you have it outlined pretty well. All of the switches you
mentioned are all pretty reliable. The one on your list that (in my
opinion) that is least reliable is the Xwave switch. I'm sure others
may disagree but in looking at we get back in returns, I'll stand by my
statement. Zwave also has the shortest warranty period.

As far as what to pick, the main thing is to take a good look at what
your requirements are, how you will be controlling it, and the look and
feel you are trying to accomplish and your budget.

I am personally a big fan of using 2-way switches but I can understand
some people not sharing that opinion due to the added expensive of the
switches.

In my house I have over 80 2-way switches and am very happy with it.

A tread I have been noticing with the professional installers that buy
from us is a shift towards UPB with it's added reliability and ease of
set-up.

Martin Custer
www.AutomatedOutlet.com

Dave Houston

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Jul 14, 2005, 11:17:17 AM7/14/05
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Martin,

What reasons do users give for returning the ZWave devices?

Brett Griffin

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Jul 14, 2005, 3:48:54 PM7/14/05
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I would agree with Martin. The only thing I would add, is consider if you
will use software or hardware down the road. if you stick with X-10 or UPB
technologies you will have the highest chances of compatibility with control
systems. I would only recommend Radio Ra if you need terra cotta wall
plates, as they are the only switch manufacture that carry 32 different
colors for their switches, everyone else has the basic 3 (White, Ivory, and
Almond) plus some may carry grey and black.

I have not found many that require a two-way application. I have lived with
X-10 for 5 years and I have not discovered a need for two-way
communications. I know there are applications out there, but you have not
mentioned them, and there are ways to program around the loss of two-way.

If you want a stay sub$40 for light switches, I would recommend the
Smartlinc, or Levitons classic series switches like the 6381, or 6383 but
they are 500 watts, and you can find them at a bargain price. Levitons
classic series are one-way extended code, and have a red LED.

--
Brett Griffin, Technology Consultant
Architechtronics, Inc.
get to know home technology

*Home of "fidoh" for HAI/OnQ/Aegis
http://www.architechtronics.com/products_software.html

**keep up on cutting-edge technology... join "the EDGE" for free at
http://www.architectronics.com/edge.html
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Jeff Volp

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Jul 14, 2005, 7:27:34 PM7/14/05
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"Brett Griffin" <bret.g...@comcast.net> wrote in message >

> If you want a stay sub$40 for light switches, I would recommend the
> Smartlinc, or Levitons classic series switches like the 6381, or 6383 but
> they are 500 watts, and you can find them at a bargain price. Levitons
> classic series are one-way extended code, and have a red LED.

You might also include the Leviton 16383 (600 watts) and 6343 (1000 watts).
Their codes are set via switches, and they do not lose their settings with
power glitches. I have a bunch in service with no problems after 2 years.


RF Dude

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Jul 14, 2005, 9:03:48 PM7/14/05
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Have you noticed the "power glitches" factory reset issue often?

"Jeff Volp" <Jeff...@msn.com> wrote in message news:GxCBe.421501

Brett Griffin

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Jul 15, 2005, 9:34:49 AM7/15/05
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Personally in 5 years with I have never seen this.

I use the following soft programming switches:
Leviton HCM06 (600 Watt)
Simply Automated 1130W (1000 Watt)

--
Brett Griffin, Technology Consultant
Architechtronics, Inc.
get to know home technology

**keep up on cutting-edge technology... join "the EDGE" for free at
http://www.architectronics.com/edge.html

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Robert Green

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Jul 15, 2005, 4:05:38 PM7/15/05
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"Brett Griffin" <bret.g...@comcast.net> wrote in message

> Personally in 5 years with I have never seen this. [switch resets]


>
> I use the following soft programming switches:
> Leviton HCM06 (600 Watt)
> Simply Automated 1130W (1000 Watt)

There have been enough reports of this type of behavior in the archives to
convince me that some X-10 gear without codewheels will reset itself on
occasion.

There are some areas of the US where the power blips substantially. IMHO,
it's gotten worse, not better, as the national power grid grows more deeply
interconnected each year. I have a whole house full of UPS's that sing all
the time in the stormy summer months as the voltage sags or gets reset.

If a house has a lot of motor appliances that start back up after a brief (<
1") outage, there will be some serious perturbations in the powerline as a
result. Under these circumstances, it's hard to believe an electronic
switch *wouldn't* blow its mind. If the end user runs switches in the
dimmed mode, the switchbox temps are likely to soar, further inducing
possible mayhem, especially in the summer. In old plaster and lathe era
electrical work, cramming even a stock X-10 switch requires some real work.
There's virtually no airflow in those switchboxes. Worse, still, they're
often in an insulated wall with a very high R-value. Resetting to A-1 is
probably the *least* of the problems an end user might see. I suspect a lot
of complex X-10 switches just fry themselves to death.

I'll bet that things *are* getting better, though, as controlling chips get
smaller and require less power to operate.

While I can see the benefits of soft programming a unit's addresses, there's
a lot of comfort in being able to pop a face place and see two dials.

--
Bobby G.

Jeff Volp

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Jul 15, 2005, 4:22:12 PM7/15/05
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"RF Dude" <po...@thisnewsgroup.com> wrote in message
news:IXDBe.13031$qg1.1...@news20.bellglobal.com...
> Have you noticed the "power glitches" factory reset issue often?

I don't use the line-programmable units, so I have no personal experience
with them. I did see a few problem reports several years ago. Because of
that, I chose to stay with the older codewheel programmable units. Here's
one I found with a quick search:

http://groups-beta.google.com/group/comp.home.automation/browse_frm/thread/13436919a57d0ae/8b7e1396e3e796d3?q=Leviton+HCS10+problem&rnum=1&hl=en#8b7e1396e3e796d3

I did have a problem with Leviton Microdim switches (not X10). They would
occasionally switch on by themselves, usually in pairs. But, we have never
had a problem with any of the Leviton 6343, 16383 & 16293 switches.


Dave Houston

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Jul 15, 2005, 4:40:26 PM7/15/05
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"Robert Green" <ROBERT_G...@YAH00.COM> wrote:

>"Brett Griffin" <bret.g...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>
>> Personally in 5 years with I have never seen this. [switch resets]
>>
>> I use the following soft programming switches:
>> Leviton HCM06 (600 Watt)
>> Simply Automated 1130W (1000 Watt)
>
>There have been enough reports of this type of behavior in the archives to
>convince me that some X-10 gear without codewheels will reset itself on
>occasion.

I'm not sure I understand why. I would assume they are storing this data in
EEPROM which usually can retain data for a matter of years (e.g. Microchip
24C64 has 200 year data retention, PIC12F683 Flash/Data EEPROM Retention: >
40 years) unless deliberately erased/rewritten.

I suspect design/programming flaws.

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