Colorizing a B&W - a brief example tut
Ember
If you haven't tried colouring a black and white photo, it can be a
rewarding effort. Couild make a nice Christmas present from a student
on a low budget. Here's the method / steps I used on the FieldGirl
image. This little B&W gem popped up while doing a google search under
'field' for a pic I needed for last week's Weekend Theme challenge.
I've posed FieldGirl-orig.jpg and FieldGirl-colr.jpg to both
alt.binaries.comp.graphics and alt.binaries.paint-shop-pro.
There are several ways of coloring a picture (or colorizing it) in
PSP. Coloring means to add a tint to the underlying B&W. Any method
will work if you are patient with the details. This one took some
three hours. Unfortunately there is no quickie way of colourizing I am
aware of.
This method doesn't have a name (none of them do). I basically just
painted the colour on, working on a flat image -- no layers were used.
I find the use-layers methods add complication without giving a better
result. IMO straight painting-on as done here is more natural and
relaxing, not unlike using a a colouring book.
I hope I remembered all the steps, I didn't write them down.
Preparing the original:
***********************
(Do any fixing before colorizing)
1. Original resized from 645 to 700 pixels high for no
particular reason.
2. Sharpened.
3. Effects / Enhance Photo / Automatic Contrast Enhancement:
neutral, normal, bold.
4. Above 3 steps added some artifacts in the face. These were removed
with Retouch/Soften and Retouch/Smudge. Small brush on both. Smudge
was used at about Opacity 30 and Sharpness zero. I like Smudge in
largish highlight areas like the cheeks. Soften was used from Opacity
about 15 to 50. I like Soften best for localized such as crud around
mouth and eyes, and also in arms and legs (larger brush).
5. Effects / Enhance Photo / Clarify at 3 (I think). This added local
high points of lightness that add zip to the picture.
Coloring:
*********
Main tool: Retouch/Color to Target. Minor tools: Retouch/Lighten and
standard Paintbrush.
1. Get colours for the Color to Target tool by i) eyedroppering
another image, or ii) eyedroppering off s colour chart, or as I did,
iii) "mixing a colour from the "rings" of the Color Palette. No need
to use selections. Useing a soft brush zoomed in, it's no problem to
paint to a desired boundary. If you need to come back to a former
target colour, just eyedropper an existing area of the same colour,
whether it's from an area of light or dark saturation -- doesn't
matter, you get the same colour.
2. Do the most important areas first. This is the eyes, face skin and
lips, then arms and legs, then hair. Anything phony on these areas
the eye will pick up right away. Grass, flowers and lawnmowers etc.
can be almost any colour and be acceptable to the viewer.
3. With about 50% sharpness I first added a hint of blue in the whites
of the eyes, that looks okay for young children. The pupils are too
dark to color. Then choosing new target colours I did the lips and
skin. With the Retouch / Lighten brush, dab on (remove colour) the
hint of gleam in both pupils. An eye highlight always adds to the
picture. Then the lips and skin were painted. The skin colour was used
for arms and legs.
3. The legs are hard to see for painting. I do the following in these
situations (okay, it uses a layer :-) Duplicate the background,
increase the brightness of the duplicate layer until the features
appear out of the darkness. Then select the desired area, delete the
bright layer and paint within the selection on the background layer.
4. The hair was next and done with a zero hardness brush. That brown
hair is an orange-red at the darkest possible setting on the colour
palettes inner ring.
5. Likewise complete the rest of the image using Color to Target. For
the dress, the entire dress can be painted target colour of choice
including the plants in front. They are either too light or too dark
to take color. Apply some daubs of colour to some flowers, then paint
on the darkest green that will "take." To break up the green somewhat,
pick a dark brown and with the brush density set to 10% to get a
streak effect, paint over the green here and there.
5. I used the standard Paintbrush to paint brown on some stems in the
girl's hand. The Paintbrush is okay for small localized situations
where Color to Target will not give a dark enough result -- a
characteristic of this tool. But Paintbrush is generally unsuitable in
this single layer method because it dulls underlying detail.
6. The picture is finished now. I added a frame, hokey as they may be,
because after all the work it deserves a frame :-) I used Compupic Pro
6.2 for the frame because that program allows narrow frames that don't
dominate the screen.
OPTIONAL VARIATION. Instead of using Colour to Target, use
Color/Colorize for the dress and green background. This requires
making a selection for each but in the Colorize dialog box a deeper
saturation can be obtained via the Saturation setting. I actually used
Colorize for the dress because I could get a darker colour than with C
to T. For a large area, Colorize can be faster than hand painting with
Color to Target if you don't mind making a selection, but in general C
to T goes faster.
Hope this helps somebody.
Ember
Chris Davidson
news:2u2nru8bv0qtjpphr...@4ax.com...
> A brief Colorizing Tut.
> Hope this helps somebody.
Ember,
I'm printing it out now. Yes, what a nice gift that would make!
Thanks!!
--
Chris -- -- -- -- -- <@
<http://www.davidsonelectric.com>
<http://www.site4youreyes.com>
"A smile is a curve that sets a lot of things straight."
Angela M. Cable
> There are several ways of coloring a picture (or colorizing it) in
> PSP. Coloring means to add a tint to the underlying B&W. Any method
> will work if you are patient with the details. This one took some
> three hours. Unfortunately there is no quickie way of colourizing I am
> aware of.
Sure there is. Open the B&W image, increase color depth if necessary.
Add a new raster layer, set the blend mode to Color and the opacity to
~50%. The amount of opacity is purely a personal preference. I prefer a
hand tinted look (a la Marshall's oils) rather than a "re-color". Do
your coloring on this layer using the standard paintbrush and eraser
tools to clean up as you go along. The same image that you did took me
perhaps 20 minutes to color. Posted in a.b.c-g as a followup to Ron V's
post.
--
Angela M. Cable
http://www.neocognition.com
PSP Tutorial Links:
http://www.psplinks.com
5th Street Studio, free graphics, websets and more:
http://www.fortunecity.com/westwood/alaia/354/
Ember
<ca...@sweetwaterhsa.com> wrote:
>Ember wrote:
>
>> There are several ways of coloring a picture (or colorizing it) in
>> PSP. Coloring means to add a tint to the underlying B&W. Any method
>> will work if you are patient with the details. This one took some
>> three hours. Unfortunately there is no quickie way of colourizing I am
>> aware of.
>
>Sure there is. Open the B&W image, increase color depth if necessary.
>Add a new raster layer, set the blend mode to Color and the opacity to
>~50%. The amount of opacity is purely a personal preference. I prefer a
>hand tinted look (a la Marshall's oils) rather than a "re-color". Do
>your coloring on this layer using the standard paintbrush and eraser
>tools to clean up as you go along. The same image that you did took me
>perhaps 20 minutes to color. Posted in a.b.c-g as a followup to Ron V's
>post.
The layer method you and Ron Vick used is entirely legitimate but
after trying all the methods I have just settled in on "my way." I
like the way C to T and Colorize applies the colours -- there is the
least dulling-down effect on the underlying details this way IMO. I
can't use the Eraser tool on the background but I'm a fast hand at
Ctrl-z.
But others may like the layer method better. There are so many ways
to colour in PSP. A combination of methods is best but that's hard to
do in a short tut aimed at someone who has never tried to colour a B&W
at all.
As to speed, I have to stick with my statement there is no quick
method to colorize. My method and yours should take the same time,
depending on how fast one paints. I don't think there is anything
intrinsically faster about working on a layer with the plain
paintbrush, vs working on the backgroung layer with C to T and
Colorize. It depends on which one you use the most and get good at,
how much attention is put to detail, how many colours you use (2 on
face), and how quickly you run the cursor about. I was trying to
convey the idea that there is no 2-click way of colourizing.
Sorry but I can't download your example image Angela (I got Ron's). I
tried yesterday on my usual ISP, and again today from a free server. I
get the error message "Sorry, Agent was unable to locate any sections
for the multipart message(s) you have selected." I don't recall
getting that error before in that situation.
I spent a leisurely about 8 to 11 pm period on the image with coffee
breaks. I like to savour a colouring rather than try to set a land
speed record. It took me longer to correct the B&W image by trial and
error to my liking, than to do the actual colouring. If it was a
speed contest I could do much better (although I'm always the last to
finish eating at the dinner table).
But even then there's no way I could beat you (20 minutes) and Ron
Vick (Guiness Book record of 5 minutes for a portion of the image!).
You two must have the fastest paintbrushes in the west :-) But I
think someone who has never colourized a picture would take closer to
3 hours, including B&W repair, to do a good job *regardless* of the
tools used.
I'm just thinking to myself now who would win a painting contest if a
water colour artist and oils artist were given identical canvasses and
told to cover the sheet as fast as they could (no runs allowed for the
water person).
Ember
Nanette
dumps alot of the posts.
Another quick/easy way to colorize a line art is to increase your colors to
24 bit. With the magic wand set to tolerance about 2 or so, feathering at
0, select all areas inside the lines. Using the noise filter, set to
uniform and 100%, apply. Now switch the image to grayscale, and then back
to 24 bit. This will make all the noise gray instead of all different
colors. Using the retouch tool, select the color to target option, set your
brush to a size you can handle easily and color the dots. When you are done
if you resize the picture even just a little smaller it will make the dots
so close together that you can't tell they are dots. I've used this alot in
my coloring line art and love how it turns out.
--
Nanette
nan...@nanettes-place.com
www.nanettes-place.com
LVS Online Instructor - PSP custom brushes, masks and
special effects, Rubber stamping and scrapbooking
www.lvsonline.com
Stampin' UP Senior Associate
www.stampinup.com
"Ember" <REMe...@operamail.com> wrote in message
news:pj9rruk5tojatbl4e...@4ax.com...
Ember
post a before and after example somewhere?
Thanks,
Ember
Nanette
this way. http://www.nanettes-place.com/my_flowers_2.htm
--
Nanette
nan...@nanettes-place.com
www.nanettes-place.com
LVS Online Instructor - PSP custom brushes, masks and
special effects, Rubber stamping and scrapbooking
www.lvsonline.com
Stampin' UP Senior Associate
www.stampinup.com
"Ember" <REMe...@operamail.com> wrote in message
news:llrrru42f8k53ig6d...@4ax.com...
Ronald Vick
wrote:
>On Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:19:41 -0700, "Angela M. Cable"
><ca...@sweetwaterhsa.com> wrote:
>
>>Ember wrote:
>>
>>> There are several ways of coloring a picture (or colorizing it) in
>>> PSP. Coloring means to add a tint to the underlying B&W. Any method
>>> will work if you are patient with the details. This one took some
>>> three hours. Unfortunately there is no quickie way of colourizing I am
>>> aware of.
>>
>>Sure there is. Open the B&W image, increase color depth if necessary.
>>Add a new raster layer, set the blend mode to Color and the opacity to
>>~50%. The amount of opacity is purely a personal preference. I prefer a
>>hand tinted look (a la Marshall's oils) rather than a "re-color". Do
>>your coloring on this layer using the standard paintbrush and eraser
>>tools to clean up as you go along. The same image that you did took me
>>perhaps 20 minutes to color. Posted in a.b.c-g as a followup to Ron V's
>>post.
>
>
>The layer method you and Ron Vick used is entirely legitimate but
>after trying all the methods I have just settled in on "my way." I
>like the way C to T and Colorize applies the colours -- there is the
>least dulling-down effect on the underlying details this way IMO. I
>can't use the Eraser tool on the background but I'm a fast hand at
>Ctrl-z.
I certainly agree that there is no 'One Method' in PSP. There are
many ways to accomplish whatever one sets out to do.
>But others may like the layer method better. There are so many ways
>to colour in PSP. A combination of methods is best but that's hard to
>do in a short tut aimed at someone who has never tried to colour a B&W
>at all.
>
>As to speed, I have to stick with my statement there is no quick
>method to colorize. My method and yours should take the same time,
>depending on how fast one paints. I don't think there is anything
>intrinsically faster about working on a layer with the plain
>paintbrush, vs working on the backgroung layer with C to T and
>Colorize. It depends on which one you use the most and get good at,
>how much attention is put to detail, how many colours you use (2 on
>face), and how quickly you run the cursor about. I was trying to
>convey the idea that there is no 2-click way of colourizing.
Allow me to point out one thing that can be done with layers that
cannot be done with C to T.
You can always go to the layer control and change the Blend mode back
to Normal, then look at the color you've applied, exclusive of the
image. You might be surprised at the amount you've missed in coloring
the image. Of course, you can paint the layer, then set the blend
mode back to Color.
Personally, I find this to be a very easy way to color in the details
that could easily be overlooked.
>Sorry but I can't download your example image Angela (I got Ron's). I
>tried yesterday on my usual ISP, and again today from a free server. I
>get the error message "Sorry, Agent was unable to locate any sections
>for the multipart message(s) you have selected." I don't recall
>getting that error before in that situation.
That;'s a shame. Angela did a much better job on the dress than I
did. I prefer her colors to my own.
Incidently, that reminds me of a trick that I don't think any of us
mentioned. There is a problem in coloring B&W images that contain
full White (255,255,255) and black (0,0,0) . Color applied to these
two values does not change anything.
To get around this, I usually use the Histogram adjustment tool,
setting the white and black levels on the left side of the display
screen.
>I spent a leisurely about 8 to 11 pm period on the image with coffee
>breaks. I like to savour a colouring rather than try to set a land
>speed record. It took me longer to correct the B&W image by trial and
>error to my liking, than to do the actual colouring. If it was a
>speed contest I could do much better (although I'm always the last to
>finish eating at the dinner table).
>
>But even then there's no way I could beat you (20 minutes) and Ron
>Vick (Guiness Book record of 5 minutes for a portion of the image!).
Yes, but I just did a quick & sloppy colorize. One color for the
background, one for the dress, one for skin tones, etc. Normally, I'd
add a more reddish skin tone to areas such as the cheeks, etc. (skin
tones change as to the area of the body and age of the person. Adults
for example, tend to have lighter tones on the bottom of their arms.)
I just added a hint of yellow to some of the flowers.
I cheated on the legs, cropping them out 8^). I never could decide if
she was bare legged or wearing stockings. From the looks of the age
of the photo, it could be either.
>You two must have the fastest paintbrushes in the west :-) But I
>think someone who has never colourized a picture would take closer to
>3 hours, including B&W repair, to do a good job *regardless* of the
>tools used.
Depends upon many factors. I've take longer to do a really complex
reconstruction job. WW2 photo, took a lot of fade correction,
reconstruction of missing areas, etc. Coloring it took the least
amount of time.
>
>I'm just thinking to myself now who would win a painting contest if a
>water colour artist and oils artist were given identical canvasses and
>told to cover the sheet as fast as they could (no runs allowed for the
>water person).
>
>Ember
I knew a oil artist that could do landscapes in One Minute! He didn't
use brushes, just wads of toilet paper to dab the paint on. He was
pretty good at it, too. He'd sell for an average of $1,000 per.
Jaggiemeister Ron - PSP terrorist
Questions? Answers at http://campratty.com/questions.html
Master PSP today - http://www.lvsonline.com
Chris Davidson
news:3dbe8...@news.provide.net...
> The plain line art isn't there but all the flowers on this page were done
> this way. http://www.nanettes-place.com/my_flowers_2.htm
Nanette,
Very nice! I'm going to print out your technique for later use.
Thanks!
Ember
<RonVic...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>On Mon, 28 Oct 2002 21:09:55 GMT, Ember <REMe...@operamail.com>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 27 Oct 2002 15:19:41 -0700, "Angela M. Cable"
>><ca...@sweetwaterhsa.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Ember wrote:
Thanks for the detailed reply Ron.
Some snipping here...
>....
>Allow me to point out one thing that can be done with layers that
>cannot be done with C to T.
>
>You can always go to the layer control and change the Blend mode back
>to Normal, then look at the color you've applied, exclusive of the
>image. You might be surprised at the amount you've missed in coloring
>the image. Of course, you can paint the layer, then set the blend
>mode back to Color.
>
>Personally, I find this to be a very easy way to color in the details
>that could easily be overlooked.
>
I'm glad you mentioned about the missing colouring. I was getting the
same thing in C to T if I wasn't careful. The only way to be sure the
coverage is full is to really zoom in and look for grey spots. But
even without zooming in ultra close, I can check for grey and see none
and then 10 seconds later see some grey. I swear, there have been
times when I thought PSP was undoing what I did as if it was some
undiscovered bug!
I'm going to use the regular paintbrush "your" way now, on color
blend, at least some of the time, and that tip to go to normal is
good.
>>Sorry but I can't download your example image Angela (I got Ron's). I
>>tried yesterday on my usual ISP, and again today from a free server. I
>>get the error message "Sorry, Agent was unable to locate any sections
>>for the multipart message(s) you have selected." I don't recall
>>getting that error before in that situation.
>
>That;'s a shame. Angela did a much better job on the dress than I
>did. I prefer her colors to my own.
>
>Incidently, that reminds me of a trick that I don't think any of us
>mentioned. There is a problem in coloring B&W images that contain
>full White (255,255,255) and black (0,0,0) . Color applied to these
>two values does not change anything.
>
>To get around this, I usually use the Histogram adjustment tool,
>setting the white and black levels on the left side of the display
>screen.
>
Have tried your trick and it's good.
I have to say though the white areas haven't bothered me too much
because I like the high contrast effect the un-coloured light areas
give (like on my FieldGirl).
However there have been some occasions when I wanted to add colour so
my equivalent solution to the Histogram has been to run the Lightness
Down brush over the problem area. That adds grey that can be coloured.
The application of the grey can be "modulated" by more or less
application of the brush, and since I'm already in the Retouch tool,
it doesn't take long to skip up and grab that tool.
The case of lightening black by raising the black point, well I
haven't needed to colour black. But I probably would have used the
Lightness Up brush.
In any case it's good to know about the white and black point
adjustments on the Histogram.
Good story. We will have to ask Kris for a toilet paper tool.
>
>Jaggiemeister Ron - PSP terrorist
>Questions? Answers at http://campratty.com/questions.html
>Master PSP today - http://www.lvsonline.com
Ember
Type M
"Angela M. Cable" <ca...@sweetwaterhsa.com> wrote in message
news:3DBC667D...@sweetwaterhsa.com...
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