Olympic Torchbearer
Lee
was given about 16 boxes of military issue soft brick rated at 1620*F
that were moved from the UofMN when they moved into their new studios.
Has anybody ever experimented with an updraft like the Torchbearer
2827G making a chamber on top of it to bisque in? Might be easier
simply putting a ring and second top on top. It might be a way to
not need an electric for bisque. You just have to plan ahead, but it
should be too hard with a small kiln like this. It might also make
it easier to even the kiln temp out.
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Lee 李 Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-óg ar chul an tI—tIr dlainn trina chéile"—that is, "The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
claylady86
arranged to have a class in kiln building.The class then built a
climbing kiln with the first chamber to be high fire, actually Cone 11
and 12 and the second one for bisque. The school is still using that
kiln as far as I know but do not know if they are using the second
chamber for bisque. We fired it with pallet wood in 17 hours and it
was a nice size.
IMO as the nature of heat rises and in the kiln you are suggesting to
build, wouldn't the top part get hotter than the bottom where you are
feeding the fire. I am certainly not a veteran at wood firing, but
just the logistics of heat use seems that would be the case. However,
it is an interesting concept.
Bonnie
On Oct 8, 9:51 am, Lee <toge...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've been intrigued by the concept of a vertical climbing kiln. I
> was given about 16 boxes of military issue soft brick rated at 1620*F
> that were moved from the UofMN when they moved into their new studios.
>
> Has anybody ever experimented with an updraft like the Torchbearer
> 2827G making a chamber on top of it to bisque in? Might be easier
> simply putting a ring and second top on top. It might be a way to
> not need an electric for bisque. You just have to plan ahead, but it
> should be too hard with a small kiln like this. It might also make
> it easier to even the kiln temp out.
>
> --
> --
Lee
> feeding the fire. I am certainly not a veteran at wood firing, but
> just the logistics of heat use seems that would be the case. However,
> it is an interesting concept.
Bonnie, If the pots are separated by a wall, then you get a lower on
the side that gets no flame. The temps you would see in the chimney.
My insulated bricks can only take 1620*F, so would work at chimney
temps or as outside insulation. I've also thought of using them
for a raku kiln, lining them with fiber blanket. I have 16 boxes of
them in the basement.
claylady86
wall to allow the flame to flow through to the chimney outlet,
wouldn't there also be heat accumulating as well? Seems to me that
your suggestion of another use of these bricks would be more prudent
and not chancy considerting all the work involved. However if you are
in the experimental mode and have a lot of energy to put into the
project, then it might be a good test of your theory, maybe making one
on a smaller scale.
As for the two chambered kiln at the Folk School, I don't remember the
actual design elements. Tracy Dotson designed this kiln at my request
and specifications, including a gas feed to have the overnight
candling to assist completing the firing in the time periods alloted
to the classes - one week plus a weekend. What was amazing was that
the Elderhostel students, all over 60, built this kiln with eagerness
and amazing energy. Many of the components of the kiln were donated by
local businesses including the pallet wood for firing.
Keep us informed as to your findings.
Bonnie
On Oct 8, 2:41 pm, Lee <toge...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > feeding the fire. I am certainly not a veteran at wood firing, but
> > just the logistics of heat use seems that would be the case. However,
> > it is an interesting concept.
>
> Bonnie, If the pots are separated by a wall, then you get a lower on
> the side that gets no flame. The temps you would see in the chimney.
> My insulated bricks can only take 1620*F, so would work at chimney
> temps or as outside insulation. I've also thought of using them
> for a raku kiln, lining them with fiber blanket. I have 16 boxes of
> them in the basement.
>
> --
Lee
> Lee, I understand what you are saying. However, with vent holes in the
> wall to allow the flame to flow through to the chimney outlet,
> wouldn't there also be heat accumulating as well? Seems to me that
> your suggestion of another use of these bricks would be more prudent
> and not chancy considerting all the work involved. However if you are
> in the experimental mode and have a lot of energy to put into the
> project, then it might be a good test of your theory, maybe making one
Torchbearers are cylindrecal, like electric kilns. It would be out
the exit at the top. You could control the temp easily with passive
dampers and also by dampering the hole at the top. Probably, an
extension ring and second top would be the best way to go.
The 1620s would be good on the outside of a kiln. Like I said,
I may line them with fiber and make a small raku kiln. I have a MR759
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