Moving an older apple tree

[Melanie Wilson]

I have an old apple tree at my office in a space due to be built on. It must be over 20 years old but isn't huge, I think it is a Wocester Pearmain, and it gives great apples. Is there any way to move it or is it way too old ?

 

I have grafted from it, but will have to wait a while for the fruit

 

Mel

 

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[David Llewellyn]

I would suggest you move it as the leaves start falling in a few weeks, around mid October – this will give new roots a chance to grow before winter sets in.

 

First give it a good framework pruning to make it easier to handle, cut off low branches in the way of digging and lifting it. Dig a trench 1 spade deep about 40-50cm RADIUS around the trunk, severing the main roots, and ease it out with the help of a couple of strong men, shovels, and levers of timber stake or crowbar or something. You don’t need to ensure all the soil stays on, but a bit would help.

 

Prepare a planting hole 1 foot deep with a suitable diameter and drive in a really strong stake off-centre in the base of the hole. Position the tree against the stake so the trunk is snug and tight to the stake, but don’t tie yet. Back-fill with loose dry soil, and when the hole is well-filled, vibrate the tree up and down to settle soil into gaps. Use a hose, or plenty of buckets of water, to ‘slop’ the soil right through the whole rootball, saturating the soil to ensure all gaps are filled with soil, all the while making sure the tree is still snug against the stake. Add more loose soil if necessary, but leave a slight hollow rather than a mound at the planting hole, so that in dry conditions next spring and summer, its easy to give it a few buckets of water that will soak in where its needed.

 

Then finally tie the tree really really well to the stake to ensure there is absolutely no give. After reducing the framework branches of the tree to maybe 2 thirds the height and width it used to be, prune off most of the small twiggy branches and spurs, leaving a framework you are happy with.

 

All going well, you will have good growth next year, and maybe even some apples!

 

David L.

 

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[Melanie Wilson]

Thanks, only problem will be  the tree was initially planted next to a building, that has been demolished, but I can't see that I'd be able to dig 50cm away from the trunk  where the concrete floor still is,

 

Regarding cutting the tree back to 2/3rds would I then leave it before trying to prune it to a shapoe, it is very straggling at the moment !

 

Mel

 

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[Tim]

Maybe a good clear photograph would help Mel.

 

Tim

[Melanie Wilson]

Ok will try & take some tomorrow

 

Mel

 

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[Stephen Hayes]

Raymond Bush of blessed memory said (I forget in which of his books) he had seen an entire orchard of trees this age moved with decent crops from the second year. The key is to do it in deep dormancy, get as much root out as possible, and prune the tree hard. The less time out of the earth the better, and expect zero fruit in year one, and of course irrigate. It can be done, there is little to be lost apart from a couple of hours sweat.

 

Stephen

From: David Llewellyn

Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 10:03 AM

To: cider-w...@googlegroups.com

[David Llewellyn]

If its close to concrete on one side, just do what you can. If its very straggly I think you should still prune it fully after moving. The less it has on top, the less it will catch the wind during its settling in period.  Next spring the less branches and twigs it has, the more useful the regrowth will be. If it has a good framework of branches which have been cut back by about a third, it wont make useless sappy water-shoot type growth, and if it has just a sparse scattering of some spurs and smaller branches it should make nice even, balanced growth which will form nice terminal fruitbud for the following season.

 

David L

 

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From: cider-w...@googlegroups.com [mailto:cider-w...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Melanie Wilson

Sent: 16 September 2010 17:14
To: cider-w...@googlegroups.com

[Melanie Wilson]

Hi Stephen

 

Pruning hard would suit as I could manage to move it then !

 

How deep are the roots likely to have gone ?

 

Here are some photos

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33392292@N00/sets/72157624970083348/

 

Mel

 

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it in error, please delete it from your system, do not use or disclose
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[Tim]

Would this be of any use?

 

http://landscaping.about.com/cs/shrubsbushes/ht/transplanting.htm

 

Tim

 

 

 

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[David Llewellyn]

That’s a grand tree!  Definitely not too big to move.  You could prune it to about half the height it currently is, and you can use some of those newer branches with the smooth greenish bark as part of your new framework. But I would still move it mid to late October rather than waiting for full dormancy, to allow it to start new root growth while the soil is still warmish.

[Stephen Hayes]

looking at the photos, its not that big a tree, and although the initial structural pruning sucks, there is a huge amount of vigour as evidenced by the olive green very upright younger shoots coming from quite low down.

 

Saw out the older parts of the tree leaving the younger vigorous shoots, you can see which these are easily enough. Remove probably 60% of what you can see above ground, get as much root as ever you can. The amount of root is similar to the amount you can see above ground, I have a photo in one of my older books that proves this, but when you think about it, its rational. Roots probably go down and spread out 6 feet, don't worry you won't get them all but start digging at least 3 feet out and get all you can. Job for 2 people and a wheelbarrow. You'll need a saw to sever the roots, as far out as you can go. Get a good root ball if you can.

 

I rate your chances of success at 70% or so if you are careful and water well next year

 

Stephen

[Stephen Hayes]

To be fair, there is a diversion of opinion as to whether late autumn 'while the roots are still active' or early spring 'into a warming soil' are best. If there are any scientific trials, and there may be, I am ignorant of them. I think either will do.

 

Looking at the photos again, the pruning that has been previously inflicted on this poor tree makes me want to weep.

 

I would suggest removing the badly placed healthy young shoots on the left and also the 2 badly angled older branches on the right, leaving essentially just the central week placed upright leader, i.e. remove more like 80% of the growth. You should seal the wounds, and if you love this tree, use a Silky Fox pruning saw to make nice clean cuts.

 

regards

[Cornelius Traas]

Re. autumn vs. spring planting, in The Netherlands the advice (based on good scientific evidence) is that planting in the spring sets the tree back by about six months growth compared to previous autumn. This applies to two-year old trees ex. nursery, but is probably also relevant to older trees.

Con Traas

 

The Apple Farm,
Moorstown, Cahir, Co. Tipperary.
Tel: 052 744 1459

[Melanie Wilson]

 I'm not sure I'd say the cutting was pruning as such, but whilst it may not be pretty it did the tree good. previously the apples it gave were nothing worth talking about, since it was hacked back, it seems much happier & the fruit is great. How old do you all think it is, I said 20 years but the more I think about it the older it must be, unless it is a seedling which seems unlikely.

 

I was thinking of trying to dig & lift mechanically, I can see people power lifting a big enough root ball

[Stephen Hayes]

Many thanks for this Con, I defer to your professional knowledge.


Stephen

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From: Cornelius Traas <c...@theapplefarm.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:23 PM

To: cider-w...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Cider Workshop] Moving an older apple tree

Re. autumn vs. spring planting, in The Netherlands the advice (based on good scientific evidence) is that planting in the spring sets the tree back by about six months growth compared to previous autumn. This applies to two-year old trees ex. nursery, but is probably also relevant to older trees.

Con Traas

 

The Apple Farm,
Moorstown, Cahir, Co. Tipperary.
Tel: 052 744 1459

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From: Stephen Hayes

To: cider-w...@googlegroups.com