Paint removeal

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bert ludden

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Jan 27, 2012, 2:17:59 PM1/27/12
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Trying to get factory paint off 80's Yamaha tank, Looking to get too bare metal, Not much luck with chemicals
 
Rather not sand or blast if possible
 
Bert

Kevin Lawhorn

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Jan 27, 2012, 2:36:50 PM1/27/12
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Get a quart can of "Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover". Or any stripper
that has "Aircraft" in the label. It will take off any paint,
including your skin. So get a package of nitrile gloves. Vinyl or
latex will melt. Do 6 inch by 6 inch sections. This will help keep you
from making a big mess. Forget the spray on version. It's kinda
messy.

I've done this before. If you have any questions, contact me off list
with a phone number.

Kevin

vin...@comcast.net

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Jan 27, 2012, 3:22:04 PM1/27/12
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Angle grinder with a stiff wire brush attachment (or wire wheel) will get it off. Tool may cost less at menards than the chemicals
fat fingered from an ancient blackBerry

From: bert ludden <hdx...@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:17:59 -0600
Subject: [ChiVinMoto]: Paint removeal

Trying to get factory paint off 80's Yamaha tank, Looking to get too bare metal, Not much luck with chemicals
 
Rather not sand or blast if possible
 
Bert

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boomshakalaka

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Jan 28, 2012, 2:38:59 PM1/28/12
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I stripped my tank using Aircraft Paint Stripper. That stuff is
nasty. It works pretty damn well, but I'll try to avoid the stuff in
the future. Like Kevin said, stay away from the aerosol version.
Using the paint on kind, I got a chemical burn on my leg-- think what
that stuff does to your lungs. Also, I'm pretty anal about dumping
chemicals, I even feel guilty for dumping a little bit of highly
diluted simple green into the alley. With the Aircraft Strippers you
end up with some nasty waste product that requires proper disposal.

garagemaholic

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Jan 28, 2012, 4:35:53 PM1/28/12
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I have also had good results using an angle grinder with a wire
wheel. I got the best results using the type where the wires are NOT
twisted into clumps ("knotted wire") - I found those to be too
agressive and they tended to scar the metal. Cup wheels work well on
flat sections, but the flat wheels are better for getting into tighter
spots - around the filler neck, along the bottom seam, etc. I used a
dremel with a wire wheel for the clean up in the places the grinder
couldn't reach.

Good luck,

Kevin Knuth

jds-MothSteward

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Jan 28, 2012, 10:34:50 PM1/28/12
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MSDS for aircraft stripper:

http://secure.terrys.net/msds/KLEAN-STRIP/343.pdf

The stuff has chlorinated hydrocarbons, and volatile solvents
(evaporate quickly). Great cleaning powers, bad for you.
It also has caustic materials in it (clean like lye soap). Combined,
they will break down and remove the oils in your skin readily.

When using this material you really need: 1) have proper ventilation;
2) Prevent contact with bare skin. I am rather obsessive about safety
gear, you can actually find me wearing gloves, pants, closed toe
shoes, safety glasses when messing with aircraft stripper. I don't
have a satisfactory way to vent and heat my garage in winter, so I
would not use it in the winter; but YMMV.

Gloves are handy for keeping junk off of skin, however be advised they
can provide a false sense of security. That is, check your hands
often to see if the gloves are thinning/softening, or pinholing. I
have had this happen using various solvents on vinmoto parts.

I used this stripper, in the infamous aerosol format, when I stripped
case covers on the Mighty Moth. I worked on old half sheet baking
trays, collected waste in newspaper and paper towels (went to
landfill, had a few days to gas off in the summer sun under a vented
trash can lid). Like Kevin advises, I took my time, and worked in
small areas. Also used various metal brushes (hand tools) to work out
debris.

Regards,
John
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