The New York Times
Sunday, May 22, 2005

SURFACING

By Siem Reap's Ruins, a New Night Scene
By JENNIFER GAMPELL

In the mid-1990's when tourists started trickling back to the temples of
Angkor Wat after the end of Cambodia's civil war, the nearby town of Siem
Reap was nearly as rundown as the ruins. The town consisted of a few dusty
streets that visitors seldom had the time or inclination to explore.

Today, as memories of the area as a danger zone fade, Siem Reap is
experiencing a tourism boom. The numbers of paved roads, hotel rooms,
international flights and visitor arrivals are all rising rapidly. Though
Angkor Wat will always be the main draw, Siem Reap offers exponentially
more night-life options than it did even 18 months ago. For Americans,
commerce is easy, since transactions are in dollars (small change is
returned in local currency).

The newest restaurants and bars - many occupying renovated, or reproduced,
French colonial-style shop houses with overhanging second-story balconies -
lie within the radius of a $1 tuk-tuk ride (those omnipresent two-wheeled
carriages pulled by motorcycles). The highest concentration is in the Old
Market area at the town's triangular southern end. Except for the busy
stretch called Pub or Bar Street, the tiny streets and alleys are nameless.
Addresses often refer to a place's proximity to one of the longer running
establishments such as "near the Red Piano."

When Mick Jagger's visit put four-year-old Khmer Kitchen, (855-12) 763 468,
on the map a while back, it was the only restaurant on the pedestrian alley
that parallels Pub Street on its southeastern side. By year's end there
will be five or six. The owner, Perk Sophal, recently moved her kitchen
across the road but retained the unpretentious ambience. Diners ranging
from backpackers to upmarket tourists keep returning for local fare like
chicken soup with lemon grass, lime and mint ($2.50).

As you head southwest down the fast growing alley, you pass the rear of the
new Pissa Italiana (main entrance on Pub Street, (855-12) 440 382, where
the owner, a former executive chef at a five-star hotel, often takes a
break from his hot pizza oven. Décor and service need improvement but not
so the creamy gnocchi ($6) or perfectly sauced and topped thin-crust pizzas
($4 to $10).

Anchoring the top end of the alley, airy Linga Bar (855-12) 246 912,
www.lingabar.com, is the town's first gay-friendly lounge-style bar. Opened
last November by a hotel manager, it's now frequented by as many straights
as gays. The pastel walls and black furniture, chilled sounds and regional
snacks clearly have universal appeal. The large drinks menu (most at $3)
includes martinis and cosmopolitans. Like most nightspots in Old Market,
Linga stays open until at least 1 or 2 a.m.

Pub Street had three occupants in 2000. Today it's almost full, with new
places spilling over onto the short block leading to Sivatha Boulevard.
Carnets d'Asie, at 333 Sivatha, (855-16) 746 701, fuses Khmer and French
cuisine in the elegantly renovated rear courtyard of a former Chinese
restaurant. In another country such beautiful presentation (like the lotus
flower salad in a crispy edible bowl) and taste (fish tartar) would cost
much more than $2.50 to $10.

The minimalist white and air-conditioned interior of Blue Pumpkin (cross
the road at the end of Pub Street at the Soup Dragon), (855-63) 963 574,
makes a cool alternative to the other naturally ventilated spots. Renowned
for its baked goods, freshly blended health drinks, snacks and desserts
(nothing above $5), the spacious two-story cafe also features free wireless
Internet access.

A few blocks outside the Old Market area, the French-owned Abacus, just off
Srivatha on the west end of Om Khun Street, (855-12) 644 286, closed
Sundays, is barely six months old and already a favorite with the
discerning expat crowd. Set in a relocated Khmer-style wooden house with a
bar underneath and extra seating in the lush tropical garden, its menu
changes daily. Succulent grilled fish (with pesto, curry or saffron cream),
unusual meats (ostrich) and starters like smoked salmon guacamole - more
than worth the $5 to $10. Vegetable accompaniments are free.[End]