Auto Painting
Carguy
Last year, I had a restored MGB painted by a garage near Strathmore. To make
a long story short - the guy totally buggered up the job. There are dirt
nibs, "holes" in the paint, and to top it all off...the paint on the rear
right fender is cracking.
I've gone to war with the twit - and he's not going to do anything about
it...not that I'd let him touch it anyway.
So...can anyone recommend a good painter here in Calgary who could either
fix it...or re-spray at a reasonable cost?
Thanks for your help.
Lance A Boyle
Carguy wrote:
> the paint on the rear
> right fender is cracking.
Um, it's probably not the paint that's cracking. It's most likely the
scary bodywork underneath that's coming apart.
Lance
Denny B
did you have it done at "reasonable cost" ?
Proper body work is labour intensive, it takes dozens of hours
to do properly. Restorers spend months on end and hundreds
of hours to do the bodywork properly. Material for auto restoring
is expensive, if you want to find out pay a visit to Acklands body
supply on Manhatten SE or Napa body supply off Barlow NE.
Go in and inquire about the price of materials.
I have spent a couple of hundred dollars at Napa body supply this
week just on the different body fillers, primers, sandpapers, surface
cleaners etc. It will take me about a month to complete the body work
on my vehicle to prepare it for painting.
Paint for my vehicle is $180 gallon ( basic blue paint ) then you need
hardener for the paint and reducer another $50-$60
Painting is the least time consuming it takes a couple of hours
Who restored the MGB vehicle? The guy who painted it?
You want your questions answered by people who know, go to
the link below and read and post your questions.
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
Denny
"Carguy" <jlob...@telusplanet.netnospam> wrote in message
news:LK7yc.44$Qd.35@clgrps13...
Carguy
Thanks for your reply.
When I had the job done...I got a few quotes. They were all within the same
ballpark...and reasonable for the work that needed to be done.
Body work was what I'd call "moderate" - no major dings or dents...a few
small ones.
The body work seems okay for the most part...it's the paint that's the
problem.
And yeah...the same guy did both.
I think - emphasis on the "think" that only the paint will need to be
re-done.
You seem to have a good handle on this - what do you think a "reasonable
cost for a sand and paint on a small car should be?
Thanks again,
John
Denny B
I am an auto painter or estimator.
I am only knowledgeable on my own vehicles which
I maintain myself
It would be interesting to know what paint you have on
your vehicle.
The types of paints are.......1) Lacquer
2) Acrylic enamel
3) Urethane
Which of the above was your car sprayed with?
Most from the factory vehicles today are sprayed with
Urethane, base coat, clear coat, ( B/C......C/C ) or B/C....base,
clear.
Base coat is the color coat then on top of the color coat is
the clear coat.
Lacquer is almost never used today except by certain custom
restorers who never drive their vehicles but display them at shows.
Acrylic enamel is still used by repair places.
In fact when I have completed my body work I will spray
my vehicle with DuPont Centari Acrylic Enamel with hardener
as a top coat.
WHEN YOU PAINT YOUR VEHICLE USE TOP QUALITY PAINT.
Go to the Napa paint store in the NE and talk to them about paint.
Napa
only has one store that deals with auto paint, the NE store one street
west of Barlow.
Ray Prefontaine.......phone number 669-1311...... he paints out of his
home
garage. Make arrangements with him and ask him what he would suggest
for your vehicle.
Denny
"Carguy" <jlob...@telusplanet.netnospam> wrote in message
news:wtsyc.34$eA.31@clgrps13...
Carguy
"Denny B" <dmrb...@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:Ttuyc.4572$_L5....@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
Denny B
not just be repainted, but the problems should be corrected
first.
1)Then your vehicle should be sprayed with EPOXY PRIMER first.
2)Then after the EPOXY PRIMER, your vehicle should be
top coated.
If you plan to keep your vehicle for years, you should have it
top coated with URETHANE.
Single stage URETHANE ( ss URETHANE ) or
Base coat/ Clear coat URETHANE, ( B/C...C/C Urethane )
Commercial paint places tend to skimp on paint as much as possible
just like house painters do. To use the norrmal good paint material
they charge you much more and call it a "Custom paint Job"
this is nonsense.
Many times paint guys who work out of their garages do good work.
Whoever you arrange with to do your vehicle ask them if YOU can
ssupply the paint. Then go and buy QUALITY paint, like DuPont
or PPG (PPG is from BASF the German company)
Look up auto paints on the internet and read about them.
Your vehicle should not take more then 2 quarts of paint.
Don't forget if somebody is going to do this job for you they
must use, apart from the Epoxy Primer and Topcoat paint.
Sandpaper, surface cleaners, final surface cleaners,
masking paper, masking tape,etc. these materials cost money.
Also LOTS OF TIME for a good job.
They must also have the proper spray equipment.
Denny
"Carguy" <jlob...@telusplanet.netnospam> wrote in message
news:N6vyc.406$Ds.140@clgrps12...
Ayr~Kabir
wrote:
>WHEN YOU PAINT YOUR VEHICLE USE TOP QUALITY PAINT.
>Go to the Napa paint store in the NE and talk to them about paint.
>Napa
>only has one store that deals with auto paint, the NE store one street
>west of Barlow.
Has NAPA started using PPG paint again? when I was in there last
summer, they said they didnt sell PPG anymore, and whatever brand it
was they sold me oxidized in the bottle within a week, changing from
silver color to rust. (it was just touch up paint to test the
coloring before I got more for my airbrush) Previously I had always
got PPG paint from NAPA and never had a problem.
This summer I *should* be ready to repaint another vehicle in my
garage, but Ill have to shop around for someone with PPG if NAPA isnt
selling it again.
Denny B
"Ayr~Kabir" <iron-...@iran.to> wrote in message
news:d6bmc01ats21ml8rg...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 21:08:28 -0600, "Denny B" <dmrb...@sprint.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >WHEN YOU PAINT YOUR VEHICLE USE TOP QUALITY PAINT.
> >Go to the Napa paint store in the NE and talk to them about paint.
> >Napa
> >only has one store that deals with auto paint, the NE store one
street
> >west of Barlow.
> > Has NAPA started using PPG paint again? when I was in there last
> summer, they said they didnt sell PPG anymore
and whatever brand it
> was they sold me oxidized in the bottle within a week, changing from
> silver color to rust. (it was just touch up paint to test the
> coloring before I got more for my airbrush)
Here we go again with false information.
What you state above is nonsense, how can paint oxidize in a bottle?
Also you don't know what paint you bought? Yet you can airbrush?
Check with Carlson's near Deerfoot mall for PPG
Ayr~Kabir
wrote:
> and whatever brand it
>> was they sold me oxidized in the bottle within a week, changing from
>> silver color to rust. (it was just touch up paint to test the
>> coloring before I got more for my airbrush)
>
>Here we go again with false information.
>
>What you state above is nonsense, how can paint oxidize in a bottle?
>Also you don't know what paint you bought? Yet you can airbrush?
Well what else would you call a chemical change that looks like rust?
It wasnt simple separation of pigments from the paint either, as
shaking it resulted in no change.
It was a 4oz plastic mixing bottle, with nothing but a NAPA label on
it. It wasnt DuPont, it wasnt PPG, the guy at the NE NAPA paint store
didnt want to tell me what kind it was, other than it was the "all in
one" type used for touch ups. (i.e. no need for primer or clear coat)
Yes I can airbrush, I use PPG products for metal, and I use Pactra for
Polycarbonites. I've been using the same Badger brush for the last 15
years.
Since I cant seem to find where I saved pics of some of the stuff I
airbrushed, I'll take some pics later tonight of what I still have
laying around.
>Check with Carlson's near Deerfoot mall for PPG
Ill do that.
Denny B
> On Sat, 12 Jun 2004 13:26:15 -0600, "Denny B" <dmrb...@sprint.ca>
> wrote:
> Well what else would you call a chemical change that looks like
rust?
> It wasnt simple separation of pigments from the paint either, as
> shaking it resulted in no change.
Oxidized is when for example, after a vehicle has been painted
and it spends years out in the elements, never garaged and the
color fades and the gloss has disappeared and there is like a
white haze on the surface of the paint.
> It was a 4oz plastic mixing bottle, with nothing but a NAPA label on
> it. It wasnt DuPont, it wasnt PPG, the guy at the NE NAPA paint
store
> didnt want to tell me what kind it was, other than it was the "all
in
> one" type used for touch ups.
Mix your own paints, get the instruction sheets where you buy your
paint.
>Yes I can airbrush, I use PPG products for metal, and I use Pactra
for
>Polycarbonites. I've been using the same Badger brush for the last
15
>years.
I do not airbrush.. I use Sata and DeVilbiss spray guns.
>Since I cant seem to find where I saved pics of some of the stuff I
>airbrushed, I'll take some pics later tonight of what I still have
>laying around
Please do not bother about the pictures.
Denny
Ayr~Kabir
wrote:
>I do not airbrush.. I use Sata and DeVilbiss spray guns.
What kind are they? HVLP, Syphon, or Gravity? and which of your guns
do you prefer? I've been trying to make up my mind if for my use the
HVLP will be worth the extra money, or if I should just get a cheaper
Syphon feed.
Denny B
Both guns are excellent.
If you want to find out about spray guns go here ,
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
post any guestions you have. Use SEARCH and look up the archives
on spray guns.
Denny
"Ayr~Kabir" <iron-...@iran.to> wrote in message
news:4edpc05v3rpfs8p6n...@4ax.com...