I've been home for over a month since my bicycle tour in Ukraine, so owe a report.
It turned out to be more like a regular tour than when I described my intentions back in March.
I flew to Warsaw, took a FlixBus across the border to Lutsk (the first bus stop in Ukraine) and then rode to Rivne, Zhytomyr, and Kyiv. I took my time, partly because the weather was rainy and I holed up in hotels for some of the worst of it. I stayed two full days in Kyiv, then took the overnight express train back to Warsaw, and then flew back home. I was gone from home for three weeks.
Some logistical details that may be of interest. Getting medical travel insurance was harder than I expected. It seems most travel insurance companies are geared toward covering the costs of pre-paid package tours. Of those that sell medical travel insurance only, without reference to a tour package, most will not insure for travel in Ukraine. Of the few that do, the only one I found that sells policies that include medical care needed due to terrorist activities was GeoBlue. It cost over $20/day, but some of that was due to my age, I imagine, and perhaps I didn't pick the cheapest options. (It's been a while and I've forgotten.) Involvement in combat activities is not covered. There are companies that purport to sell insurance to people who are doing volunteer work in dangerous areas, but I imagine it's quite expensive.
There is no way I'm going to get my new Bike Friday New World Tourist in a suitcase that weighs less than 50 lbs, like I've done with my Pocket Rocket, so I had to pay extra for it to fly with me as checked baggage. The suitcase that I bought with it is somewhat too large for the airlines maximum dimension requirements, but none of the airlines cared about that. They did care about the weight. Bike Friday had shipped the bike to me in the suitcase in a package that weighed just under 50 lbs., so your mileage may vary, depending on what you think you need to pack with it.
I also bought the canvas-like bag that Bike Friday sells for transporting the bike on busses or trains. The bike fits in the bag without removing racks or wheels, but I'll not travel by train with it again. If I was a foot taller I might, but it's too hard for me to lug for any distance or up or down stairs or escalators. Traveling by bus where I could pack it up near where the buses park worked well enough.
The main road between Lutsk and Kyiv was in excellent condition for riding, except for one two-lane stretch with heavy traffic between Lutsk and Rivne, where a paved shoulder was nonexistent. The unpaved shoulder was mostly ridable, but I may have walked the bike for a mile where it wasn't.
I did not get off the main road to do any of the exploring I wanted to do, largely because the rain discouraged me. However, I greatly enjoyed riding on the village-like service roads that paralleled the main road near big cities or villages, and seeing the variety of houses, gardens, etc. I shared those roads with household chickens and occasional goats, cows, or horses that were staked out to graze there.
The gas-station convenience stores were good places to stop for coffee and breakfast or lunch along the way. They tended to be meticulously clean and staffed well enough to be patient with a foreigner like me who hardly speaks the language. I do know a bit of Russian and even less Ukrainian, but Google Translate was a big help at times. I found that the best thing in the grocery stores, too, was to explain that I didn't know how to mark the bread or whatever I wanted to buy, and there was someone who took all the time I needed to show me how it worked.
I did all my hotel bookings through
booking.com, and used that to explain that I was traveling by bicycle and needed a safe place to store my bicycle if I couldn't take it into the room (which usually was not practical or workable). When
booking.com tells you that the languages spoken at a hotel are Ukrainian, Russian, and English, that means that somebody on the staff speaks English, and that person may or may not be on duty when you check in. But I got along OK even when no English speakers were around. One hotel near Kyiv identified its spoken language as Russian only, and it was not a problem. The "administrator" took pains to speak very simple Russian that I could understand. As expected, in Kyiv it was a lot easier to conduct business in English,
It was easy to forget that a war was going on. The restaurants and stores are all operating, and the streets and sidewalks are full of people of all ages, both men (including those of military age) and women. The law requires restaurants to shut down during air raid alerts, but none of them shut down. I did hear one boom during a nightime air raid alert in Zhytomyr. At first I thought it must have been thunder, as it had been raining, but soon realized that it couldn't have been thunder. I looked out the window and saw nothing but a sleeping city. I was on one edge of the city, and it may have been different where the sound seemed to come from. I forgot about it and went to sleep, In the morning I was reading the Kyiv Independent and was surprised to see that Zhytomyr was in the list of cities that had been attacked the previous evening. Then I remembered what I had heard.
In Kyiv I may have heard one artillery shot taking down a drone or something. Somebody told me that the pickup-truck-mounted units are pretty good.
I arranged to be in Kyiv on a Sunday so I could attend a Lutheran church service in one of the three Lutheran church bodies in Ukraine. The liturgy is more derived from the Byzantine/Orthodox rite than the Roman Catholic rite, and is quite something in itself. A couple of older ladies (though probably not as old as I am) helped me find my place in the worship book when I got lost, which happened several times. (It was all in Ukrainian,) The pastor speaks good English and when he found out where I was from and how I had got there introduced me to the congregation at both services. He was also busy with those in the congregation who were trying to help out a woman in the congregation whose windows were blown out of her house during one of the bomb attacks. He said the government may or may not help repair the damage, but when these things happen (it wasn't the first time) they try to take care of it right away rather than wait for the government. The people need some place to live in the meantime, anyway.
I also visited the semi-famous Hydropark Gym in Kyiv, and tried out a bit of the equipment. It would be hard to explain what it's all about, but there are YouTube videos about it.
That may have been a strange agenda for a tourist in Kyiv, but that was mine. I also did some of the usual things that tourists do. (I wasn't the only tourist in the city center, but I can't say that the place was packed with tourists. Most were probably Ukrainians from out of town.)
The Sunday I was there was also the day of operation Siderweb, which I read about that evening. I think the evenings have been quite a bit more dangerous in Kyiv since the weekend I was there. But daily life still goes on, too.