My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
On Mon, 2012-10-08 at 07:04 -0700, gbriere wrote:
> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has
> begun to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several
> thousand miles, I can't really complain. One mechanic has told me
> that I should really upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers
> thoughts about staying with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
I think 9 is superior to 10 in every way except sprocket count. Chains
and cassettes last longer, 9 is customizable in a way that 10 is not,
cassettes and chains are less expensive, and you can easily get anything
from narrow range racing cassettes to wide range MTB cassettes.
The two most commonly mentioned cures are to replace cables and
housings, and to spray the inside of the brifter with WD40. Both are
well worth trying before considering upgrading the entire drive train.
(Worn chains and cassettes, of course, should be replaced as needed.)
I've read numerous accounts of STI shifters being brought back to life by flushing them out with large doses of WD-40. Worth a shot & it's far cheaper than a new drivetrain.
Sender: bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 07:04:56 To: <bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com>
Reply-To: bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com
Subject: {BL} shifter death
My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
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I've done this for a couple of people. Generally, I set the bike in a workstand with the nose angled well down, put a bucket under the shifter, get a small can of WD40 (with the nice plastic tube), squeeze the brake lever to expose the mechanism, pull back (just a little) the plastic disk on the back of the shifter mechanism, poke the tube into one of the holes in the mechanism, and empty (and I do mean empty) the can into the shifter, working it a few times in the process. Let it sit overnight, then test it by running through the gears a few times.
If this works, then spray in some light lube ('cause the WD40 isn't lube).
Andy (who prefers DT shifters and so never has to do this to his own bike).
On Monday, October 8, 2012 10:50:48 AM UTC-4, Robert Tilley wrote:
> I've read numerous accounts of STI shifters being brought back to life by > flushing them out with large doses of WD-40. Worth a shot & it's far > cheaper than a new drivetrain.
> Robert Tilley > San Diego, CA > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > ------------------------------ > *From: * gbriere <bri...@earthlink.net <javascript:>> > *Sender: * bicyclel...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> > *Date: *Mon, 8 Oct 2012 07:04:56 -0700 (PDT) > *To: *<bicyclel...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>> > *ReplyTo: * bicyclel...@googlegroups.com <javascript:> > *Subject: *{BL} shifter death
> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun > to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I > can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really > upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying > with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Bicycle Lifestyle" group. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msg/bicyclelifestyle/-/diUITLWlvtkJ. > To post to this group, send email to bicyclel...@googlegroups.com<javascript:> > . > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > bicyclelifesty...@googlegroups.com <javascript:>. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/bicyclelifestyle?hl=en.
I was told, by a mechanic who purported convincingly to know such things,
that "they all do that." He says it's a design flaw with that generation
of right/rear 9-speed brifter mechanisms. Death can be delayed or
prolonged with lots of lube, but that's only palliative care, especially
after the symptoms progress enough to be irritating enough to ask someone
for help on an Internet discussion forum. It can't be fixed because of
Shimano's philosophy of complete component replacement rather than making
available only the individual repair pieces. It can't be replaced with new
from the supply pipeline because of Shimano's philosophy of market
obsolescence.
The last time I found a new one, it was in 2007, hidden beneath a
mechanic's bench in his personal double-secret private stash - and he only
let me have it because of our personal connection.
I have had some success with one avenue of replacement:
Watch Craigslist and eBay for used replacement components. There's no way
(even with up-close inspection) to discern how many miles a brifter has
left in it. External condition is no indicator. I'm on my third or fourth
such replacement, each gives a few thousand miles of service.
I have not yet tried any of these three potential replacements:
http://rockymountaincyclery.com has guts (just the fiddly plastic ratchety
bits inside) for certain lines.
I understand Shimano ST-4503 is "said to be" mechanically compatible, with
the design flaw corrected.
http://www.microshift.com.tw makes components that are starting to show up
on some Taiwanese-built bikes. They don't have a USA distribution channel,
though their products can sometimes be found on eBay, and they're branded
in the Performance Bike catalog. Their catalog includes a brifter set
(SB-R09A, not carried by Performance) that might work with my Ultegra
derailleurs, 52/42/30 rings and 12-27 9-speed cogs. I haven't tried it yet.
I typically use friction shifters (or ride fixed) for the very reason, in
part, that I like things which are easier to maintain and repair at home or
in the field. That said, I do like the convenience provided by
brifters--everything is "right there." I have no experience with these
but I'm tempted to give them a try (because, in part, I can keep my
friction shifters :o) ). I don't know if it might be a good alternative for
you. . .
Cheers!
lyle
-- lyle f bogart dpt
156 bradford rd
wiscasset, me 04578
207.882.6494
206.794.6937
On 8 October 2012 10:04, gbriere <bri...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun
> to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I
> can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really
> upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying
> with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Bicycle Lifestyle" group.
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-- lyle f bogart dpt
156 bradford rd
wiscasset, me 04578
207.882.6494
206.794.6937
Well, see, that's why DT shifters are in all and every way superior. :-)
I also move that the term "brifter" be stricken and replaced in every instance with "shake." (As in--"I was screaming downhill at 50 MPH when a deer ran across the road and I grabbed my shakes.")
On Monday, October 8, 2012 11:52:28 AM UTC-4, Bob Sutterfield wrote:
> I was told, by a mechanic who purported convincingly to know such things, > that "they all do that." He says it's a design flaw with that generation > of right/rear 9-speed brifter mechanisms. Death can be delayed or > prolonged with lots of lube, but that's only palliative care, especially > after the symptoms progress enough to be irritating enough to ask someone > for help on an Internet discussion forum. It can't be fixed because of > Shimano's philosophy of complete component replacement rather than making > available only the individual repair pieces. It can't be replaced with new > from the supply pipeline because of Shimano's philosophy of market > obsolescence.
> Well, see, that's why DT shifters are in all and every way superior. :-)
> I also move that the term "brifter" be stricken and replaced in every
> instance with "shake." (As in--"I was screaming downhill at 50 MPH when a
> deer ran across the road and I grabbed my shakes.")
> On Monday, October 8, 2012 11:52:28 AM UTC-4, Bob Sutterfield wrote:
>> I was told, by a mechanic who purported convincingly to know such things,
>> that "they all do that." He says it's a design flaw with that generation
>> of right/rear 9-speed brifter mechanisms. Death can be delayed or
>> prolonged with lots of lube, but that's only palliative care, especially
>> after the symptoms progress enough to be irritating enough to ask someone
>> for help on an Internet discussion forum. It can't be fixed because of
>> Shimano's philosophy of complete component replacement rather than making
>> available only the individual repair pieces. It can't be replaced with new
>> from the supply pipeline because of Shimano's philosophy of market
>> obsolescence.
> To post to this group, send email to bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com.
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-- lyle f bogart dpt
156 bradford rd
wiscasset, me 04578
207.882.6494
206.794.6937
Those are clever! I'm not sure I like the shifter location & cable spray, but not bad...personally, I'd prefer something a little more like the original Command Shifters, which in my rather limited opinion worked quite well (I modified them for full friction). I like the kind that sat hard up against the brake hood. With some minor improvements, I think they could have succeeded in the market...
And I assume this is all done with the front wheel off, because with any luck you'll get WD-40 (which, though not lube, is not good for brakes, either) all over everything.
I was wondering, has anyone ever taken the trouble to design/sell a derailer system that worked more like a Rohloff -- with the indexing at the shifting device, rather than at the shifter? I know, two wires, double the fun, but it is very nice nonetheless.
On 2012-10-08, at 11:37 AM, Andy M-S <marchantshap...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've done this for a couple of people. Generally, I set the bike in a workstand with the nose angled well down, put a bucket under the shifter, get a small can of WD40 (with the nice plastic tube), squeeze the brake lever to expose the mechanism, pull back (just a little) the plastic disk on the back of the shifter mechanism, poke the tube into one of the holes in the mechanism, and empty (and I do mean empty) the can into the shifter, working it a few times in the process. Let it sit overnight, then test it by running through the gears a few times.
> If this works, then spray in some light lube ('cause the WD40 isn't lube).
> Andy (who prefers DT shifters and so never has to do this to his own bike).
On a similar note, currently most of my bikes have bar-end shifters.
I saw the stemshifter adapter sold by Rivendale. This would seem to
be a nice compromise between DT shifters and barends. A little less
movement from the bars to shift, but they dont shift themselves when
you accidently 'knee' at a stop light. Anyone with experience on
these?
Alan
ps survived getting sideswiped by a car this morning on my commute.
Kid in the right hand turning lane at the light, went straight and
tried to cut me off. He brushed me, hit the curb and flatted and lost
a hubcap. I dropped my chain, but stayed up. With the barends it
still shifted fine the rest of the way to work.
On 10/8/12, Andy M-S <marchantshap...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Those are clever! I'm not sure I like the shifter location & cable spray,
> but not bad...personally, I'd prefer something a little more like the
> original Command Shifters, which in my rather limited opinion worked quite
> well (I modified them for full friction). I like the kind that sat hard up
> against the brake hood. With some minor improvements, I think they could
> have succeeded in the market...
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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On Mon, 2012-10-08 at 13:03 -0400, David Chase wrote:
> I was wondering, has anyone ever taken the trouble to design/sell a
> derailer system that worked more like a Rohloff -- with the indexing
> at the shifting device, rather than at the shifter? I know, two
> wires, double the fun, but it is very nice nonetheless.
Shimano's first indexing system, the Positron, worked that way. (Put
"worked" in quotes.) So too did the very first indexing system ever, if
memory serves, a TA system from the 1930s (illustrated in BQ a few years
ago) that never caught on.
Maybe implied in post but undo wires at RD/FD and calipers to facilitate
complete opening of levers to allow casing end to be pulled away from lever
body/ies and access to back of lever shifting mechanism (stick the long
squirt nozzle in everywhere!)
Pull on the bare wires while working levers and flooding and repeat, often
just working the levers won't do the job if the levers are really
'reluctant" and mucked up
If after pulling on wires, you do feel the "clicks", repeating the flooding
and working the levers will improve the action
Tipping the nose of the frame down in the work stand will let the excess of
"whateveryasquirtinthere" to just run down and off the lever ends >
floor/rags/or bucket
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:37 AM, Andy M-S <marchantshap...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I've done this for a couple of people. Generally, I set the bike in a
> workstand with the nose angled well down, put a bucket under the shifter,
> get a small can of WD40 (with the nice plastic tube), squeeze the brake
> lever to expose the mechanism, pull back (just a little) the plastic disk
> on the back of the shifter mechanism, poke the tube into one of the holes
> in the mechanism, and empty (and I do mean empty) the can into the shifter,
> working it a few times in the process. Let it sit overnight, then test it
> by running through the gears a few times.
> If this works, then spray in some light lube ('cause the WD40 isn't
> lube).
> Andy (who prefers DT shifters and so never has to do this to his own bike).
>> --
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-- Chuck Davis
The shoppe is at:
OK Velo Sales (Okv...@gmail.com)
1408 E 11th ST
Tulsa, OK 74120
I'd be more inclined to go with an 8 speed set up, running bar end shifters. I've toured extensively with this set up, in friction mode. Just easier and the bar ends are "just there" as well. You don't have to spend a lot to have an excellent system.
On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:04:56 AM UTC-6, gbriere wrote:
> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun > to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I > can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really > upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying > with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
This is a good reason to switch to Campagnolo. Campy shifters can be rebuilt!!!
________________________________ From: gbriere <bri...@earthlink.net> To: bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com Sent: Monday, October 8, 2012 10:04 AM Subject: {BL} shifter death
My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Bicycle Lifestyle" group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/bicyclelifestyle/-/diUITLWlvtkJ. To post to this group, send email to bicyclelifestyle@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to bicyclelifestyle+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/bicyclelifestyle?hl=en.
Agreed! I go with a 6 speed freewheel and triple chainring, friction
bar-ends and find that works great for most of the riding I do. Simple and
easier as can be if you're going to have variable gears.
On 8 October 2012 14:54, 42MuskhamSt <attew...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'd be more inclined to go with an 8 speed set up, running bar end
> shifters. I've toured extensively with this set up, in friction mode.
> Just easier and the bar ends are "just there" as well. You don't have to
> spend a lot to have an excellent system.
> On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:04:56 AM UTC-6, gbriere wrote:
>> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun
>> to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I
>> can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really
>> upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying
>> with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Bicycle Lifestyle" group.
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-- lyle f bogart dpt
156 bradford rd
wiscasset, me 04578
207.882.6494
206.794.6937
Why buy new cassettes etc.? Why not keep the 9-speed system and put the
bar-end shifters on them? I have 9 and 10-speed bar end shifters and they
work great.
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 1:49 PM, Lyle Bogart <lylebog...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Agreed! I go with a 6 speed freewheel and triple chainring, friction
> bar-ends and find that works great for most of the riding I do. Simple and
> easier as can be if you're going to have variable gears.
> On 8 October 2012 14:54, 42MuskhamSt <attew...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I'd be more inclined to go with an 8 speed set up, running bar end
>> shifters. I've toured extensively with this set up, in friction mode.
>> Just easier and the bar ends are "just there" as well. You don't have to
>> spend a lot to have an excellent system.
>> On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:04:56 AM UTC-6, gbriere wrote:
>>> My 9 speed ultegra shifter on my Cannondale T2000 touring bike has begun
>>> to stick badly as I shift to higher gears. After several thousand miles, I
>>> can't really complain. One mechanic has told me that I should really
>>> upgrade my entire drive train. What are readers thoughts about staying
>>> with the ultegra 6501 9 speed or moving on?
