Perilous Times
Haiti looters are shot or lynched as owners comb through house ruins
Most people aren't stealing, they are simply trying to recover what's
left of their own possessions
* Rory Carroll
* The Observer, Sunday 24 January 2010
Marc Nestor holds a certificate he rescued from the wrecked law offices
of his employer, Jean Samson. Photograph: David Levene
It was testament to the mayhem in Rue Pavée that everyone forgot about
the burning corpse.
A group of youths in rags had clambered up to the top floors of
destroyed shops and were throwing random objects into the street:
nappies, books, bags, tyres, then chairs, bookcases and filing cabinets.
Fights broke out as the mob below surged forward to grab the prizes. A
teenager peeled away, clutching a bulging white cotton bag. What was
in it? "I don't know," he said, sweating, his eyes darting about, lest
a rival snatch it. "But it's mine."
Motorcyclists draped looted tyres over their torsos before roaring away
in clouds of dust.
Shots rang out: the police. Uniformed officers charged up the street,
rifles levelled, scattering the crowd. Just a fleeting cameo by the
Haitian state. Minutes later, the police were gone and the looters
returned to pillage what remained of Rue Pavée. The corpse continued
burning.
It was a scene dreaded since the earthquake on 12 January flattened
Port-au-Prince: chaos and immolation as feral gangs took over the
shattered ruins. A Caribbean vision of Cormac McCarthy's The Road.
Images of the mayhem flashed around the world, alarming aid agencies
and terrifying the truckers waiting to cross into Haiti from the
Dominican Republic. "They could attack at any moment. I'm getting a
knife or a club before crossing," said Leonel Sosa, 22, as he loaded up
his vehicle.
For those following events in the Haitian capital from afar, it was
easy to overlook one thing: the mayhem was restricted to a few streets
downtown. The ransacking and violence in Rue Pavée were real, but not
representative of the rest of the city.
The people of Port-au-Prince have proved remarkably stoical in the face
of extreme deprivation. The Haitian state has all but vanished, and the
international response has yet to fill the gap, yet most
neighbourhoods remain calm. In Delmas, for instance, street stalls
selling oranges and fried plantain operated without hassle, a few
metres from homeless, penniless families who had not eaten in 24 hours.
The only thing they stole were glances. "Our neighbours will help us,"
said Juliette Josef, 28, surrounded by her four children.
Haiti's capital is filled not with looters but scavengers, an important
distinction. Talk to those scouring the ruins for something to salvage
and they almost always turn out to be the owners.
Mon Plaza, a warren of shops and houses in the hillside district of
Pétionville, resembled an ant hill, with people carting possessions
through the cracked concrete maze.
Some carried mattresses and iron bedsteads on their heads, others
hauled pillow cases bulging with books, cutlery and electrical
equipment. Looters have been lynched and shot, but these scavengers,
reclaiming their own possessions, had nothing to fear.
On a dusty street in front of a collapsed three-storey house, Lenel
Dilus hunched over a coffee table with a can of insect repellent, a can
of air freshener, and a red bottle of Rumpa'n grenadine syrup: the sum
total of what he had salvaged from the family home and business.
Around him were four neighbours with saws, iron bars and improvised
tools. They had come to help him salvage items from the ground floor, a
grocery store. Their other mission was to extract the bodies of five
relatives and employees. They rubbed a lime under their noses to mask
the smell, covered their faces with cloths and set to work.
"Lenel is not paying us for this, we want to help," said Estinvil
Sainvilus, a civil servant. His task was to saw off the usable bits of
wood from broken doors and furniture.
It was not pure philanthropy – the diggers would split the salvage –
but the calm, businesslike exercise in solidarity and mutual gain was a
world away from the chaos of Rue Pavée. Worming into corpse-filled,
unstable ruins while aftershocks jolt the city is nasty, dangerous
work, but it is one of the few jobs available in a shattered economy.
Marc Nestor, 34, a handyman for a law firm, assumed his job had
vanished with the firm's offices in Rue de Centre. But last week his
boss, Jean Samson, asked him to extract what he could from the debris.
After five hours he had filled four cardboard boxes with documents,
framed diplomas, legal texts and a hardback dictionary whose cover
showed a picture of Barack Obama.
"I lost my whole world, but here at least I've got something back,"
said Samson, patting the boxes. Dapper in grey trousers and shirt, and
with a blue surgical mask, the lawyer sat in a plastic chair in the
middle of the deserted street and watched his employee squirm in and
out of crevices. "I may need to hire a second guy. There's heavy stuff
to be got out, bookcases, chairs."
High-powered efforts to clear debris got under way yesterday in the
form of Caterpillar earth-movers equipped with turbo-diesel engines.
They shovelled tonnes of broken concrete, some festooned with
tablecloths and sheets.
Before the machinery arrived, Pierrot Boss, an ironmonger, squirrelled
into the ruins of his workshop on Rue de Boudon to claim a 2009
calendar, treasured because of its historic illustrations of
Port-au-Prince architecture.
His favourite photograph was that of the Banque National, a handsome
building antedating the First World War. "It was damaged in the
earthquake," said Boss. "But look at it here. It's beautiful."