Pestilences: Voracious Grape Eating Moth eats its way
through California Vineyards
Monica Cooper, a viticulture farm advisor, checks a trap and finds two
male European grapevine moths in a vineyard in Oakville, Calif.
By Tracie Cone, Associated Press
FRESNO, California — One of the dirty secrets of California's wine
country is now on everyone's lips.
Somehow a voracious grape-eating moth has found its way nonstop from
Europe to the heart of the Napa Valley, the land of three-figure
cabernet. With valuable fruit at risk, the region's fast and loose play
with federal agriculture quarantine laws is getting new scrutiny from
investigators and researchers.
Suitcase smuggling is the winked-at act of sneaking in cane cuttings to
clone vines from France's premier vineyards, hoping to replicate
success. Vintners say it helped build a handful of exceptional
vineyards in the 1980s when U.S. plant choices were limited and import
testing took seven years.
As California clamps a quarantine across the heart of Napa Valley and
farmers ready their pesticides, nobody is winking anymore. A new Napa
reality is setting in_ that lax attitudes invite costly invasions of
new pests that can threaten the country's most expensive and
economically productive farmland.
"There are people who continue to spin their tales of smuggled plant
material. People like a story with a glass of wine, and what that tends
to do is legitimize behavior that not only threatens the industry, it's
illegal," said Greg Clark, deputy agricultural commissioner for Napa
County. "Knock it off."
A handful of California's best vintners today admit to having used
"suitcase cloning" to avoid yearslong waits in USDA quarantine for
their vines.
Their stories of success after stuffing cane buds down pants legs and
in backpacks romanticized an outlaw behavior that, even if it's not
directly responsible for a coming wave of vineyard spraying over most
of Napa Valley, has reminded growers that one person's miscalculation
can affect them all.
"The question is 'Who brought it in?" asks Jim Lincoln, who manages 400
acres of grapes in the quarantine area.
Theories are swirling around Napa like cabernet in a Riedel glass:
smuggled grape cuttings; imported vineyard machinery mislabeled to
avoid scrutiny, as is suspected in Chile's similar outbreak, or, even
more sinister, a deliberate introduction to gain an edge in a region
where an 1 acre (half-hectare) of fruit can sell for $15,000 and more.
"Even small percentage or a fraction of a percentage in market share
has the potential to benefit someone financially," said Clark.
Agricultural officials say that had the European grapevine moth
(Lobesia botrana) innocently evaded inspectors on a container ship, the
first trapping of the grape eater would have been near a port. Instead
the pest that has proliferated across European vineyards appeared last
September in the heart of the region where fine cabernet can fetch
hundreds of dollars a bottle.
"My personal belief is that there are people who feel they are above
the law and that they know better and therefore they'll bring in
whatever they like," said USDA spokesman Larry Hawkins. "They flaunt
it."
Steep fines and improved U.S. nursery stock since the 1980s now
discourage the reckless suitcase smuggling practice, though authorities
believe it still exists.
Today a grower seeking shortcuts would have to pass border inspectors
and circumvent quarantines at UC-Davis' Foundation Plant Services,
funded to test imported plants for pests and diseases.
"There are those who think that some of the virus problems suffered in
Napa have been because of smuggling," said Plant Services director
Deborah Golino. "The more we move plants around the world, the more
chance there is of introducing problems."
Entomologists say the life cycle of the moth, native to Italy but found
across eastern Europe and the Middle East, make it difficult for it to
survive on cuttings, so the suitcase smuggling theory might not hold
up, despite the talk.
"I'm not saying that people don't still try to get suitcase wood in,
but in this instance I'm not sure the pest would be transported like
that," said Monica Cooper, the Napa County viticulture farm adviser.
Investigators with the USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection
Service say they may never know for certain how the moth traveled to
wine country.
Traps to pinpoint the infestation are set 25 per 1 square mile (2.5
square kilometers) across Napa Valley as they begin to swarm in warmer
weather, and less intensively in California's other grape regions.
Investigators from the USDA's Smuggling Interdiction and Trade
Compliance unit are checking everything from vineyards to shipping
manifests to try to find the breech in order to plug it. The task isn't
easy.
"When it comes to individuals smuggling, that's a whole lot more
difficult than searching a cargo ship," Hawkins said. "Looking for the
source among tens of thousands of vines is like looking for a needle in
a haystack."