> Hi Eriks,
> I'll be doing the job myself, bit of an old hand now :)
> Had one of the local hydraulic specialists make up some for my
> Landcrab and then had to redo all of the flares :(
> I bought a decent flaring tool for my car so now I'll have for my Mini
> resto.
> Ian
> On Jan 7, 9:06 pm, eskin...@optusnet.com.au wrote:
> > Hi Ian,
> > Are you planning to form the new pipes yourself or get a brake shop to make up new pipes?
> > If youre getting a shop to make the pipes then the easy way to measure up the lengths is to run a piece of string along the existing pipes following all the bends, then just measure your total string length.
> > If youre doing it yourself the best way is to buy a 5 metre coil of bundy tube, connect up one end then bend it all into place, cut it at the right spot and then attach the final fitting.
> > If you've never flared bundy tube, it's probably better to just order new pipe from a brake shop with the fittings and flaring done for you.
> > Most of the cheap flaring tools you see for sale are just rubbish and will not create quality double flares. You don't want to take chances with your bakes with dubious flares as they can leak of crack.
> > The best bundy tube to use is the copper/nickle alloy tube that commonly available in the UK but a little bit harder to find here in Australia. The beauty of the copper/nickle alloy (not to be confused with plain copper tube) is it's soft to work with but doesn't work harden like regular copper, it also doesn't rust.
> > Cheers,
> > Eriks
> > > Ian Davy(Oz) <idav...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> > > How much bundy tube do you think it would take to re-run the tubing to
> > > the back brakes?
> > > My mates MK2 has sprung a leak at both ends of the long run and the
> > > two short bits are looking fairly cactus too.
> > > Ian
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